After my last alignment I had to work harder at keeping the rig
straight.
I thought that perhaps since the wheels were now running true something
else reared it's ugly head, which of course it did. I assumed it might
be the lack of steering damper or worn out steering box or that it was
being caused by toad.
Long story short, I was told how to adjust the steering box and it's
driving like new, without wiggle, even in the interstate ruts.
Here is what I did:
Loosen the locknut a turn or better, i.e. not just enough to unlock the
allen screw loosen the allen screw, wiggle the steering wheel and loosend
it some more using allen wrench. be sure the nut is far enough off to be
sure it will not tighten first. now turn the nut itself back in to tighten
it. no allen wrench is used for this.this will the allen screw will make
contact first. continue to tighten the locknut. still no allen wrench used.
apparently the tension provided by tightening of the locknut is usually
exactly right.
It certainly worked in my case. I would not have believed it had I not
experienced/done it myself.
Apparently it is a common mistake to tighten the adjustment more than
necessary during an alignment, even by the most expert. My own misconception
was that tighter means better or rather that the adjustment was left too
loose so I tightened it a 1/4 turn more, which didn't change handling.
While I was being set straight it was explained that if the adjustment is
too tight, oversteering occurs because it takes more pressure. It was
explained that if too tight it'll appear to wander, too loose and more
steering wheel travel required, but no wander. Steering damper has
nothing to do with wander/no-wander.
As I said, I would not have believed the difference has someone just
told me.
If you've tried all else and he coach still wiggles excessivley, perhaps
give this procedure a try.
Heinz
'76 Transmode that now travel straight as an arrow again (at no cost).
straight.
I thought that perhaps since the wheels were now running true something
else reared it's ugly head, which of course it did. I assumed it might
be the lack of steering damper or worn out steering box or that it was
being caused by toad.
Long story short, I was told how to adjust the steering box and it's
driving like new, without wiggle, even in the interstate ruts.
Here is what I did:
Loosen the locknut a turn or better, i.e. not just enough to unlock the
allen screw loosen the allen screw, wiggle the steering wheel and loosend
it some more using allen wrench. be sure the nut is far enough off to be
sure it will not tighten first. now turn the nut itself back in to tighten
it. no allen wrench is used for this.this will the allen screw will make
contact first. continue to tighten the locknut. still no allen wrench used.
apparently the tension provided by tightening of the locknut is usually
exactly right.
It certainly worked in my case. I would not have believed it had I not
experienced/done it myself.
Apparently it is a common mistake to tighten the adjustment more than
necessary during an alignment, even by the most expert. My own misconception
was that tighter means better or rather that the adjustment was left too
loose so I tightened it a 1/4 turn more, which didn't change handling.
While I was being set straight it was explained that if the adjustment is
too tight, oversteering occurs because it takes more pressure. It was
explained that if too tight it'll appear to wander, too loose and more
steering wheel travel required, but no wander. Steering damper has
nothing to do with wander/no-wander.
As I said, I would not have believed the difference has someone just
told me.
If you've tried all else and he coach still wiggles excessivley, perhaps
give this procedure a try.
Heinz
'76 Transmode that now travel straight as an arrow again (at no cost).
