>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> >[mailto
wner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Jim Bounds
> >Sent: Monday, June 01, 1998 12:07 AM
> >To: gmcmotorhome
> >Subject: Re: GMC: Started Motorhome
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Well I replaced the solonoid on the starter and then installed
> >> #2 gauge cables. I got it to fire up by priming the carburetor
> >> with gas. Now heres my problem...The gauges say the Main Gastank
> >> is Full and the second tank is half full. Im not getting gas to the
> >> carb..and I dont think its wise to use the gas in those tanks.
> >> Is there something I can put in the gas to treat it before using
> >> it? If not should I drain the tanks? and How? What would I do
> >> with the old gas?
> >> Also...Did the 74 GMCs have electric gas pumps..If So where are
> >> they? ( not in the tank I hope )
> >> Has anyone ever had to remove a locking gas cap...any hints?
> >> I have a leak in one of my hydraulic lines to the wipers.
> >> Anyone delete these lines...any tips?
> >>
> >> The engine sounds real strong for the short time it ran!
> >> Thanks,
> >> Rob
> >
> >Rob,
> >
> >It sounds like there could be something wrong with one or both of your
> >fuel senders. They should both read the same until your fuel level
> >drops below i/4 tank, then will they read different. You may want to
> >verify there is fuel in the tanks, add 5 gallons of fuel and see if the
> >pump will pick up fuel. If not, you need to start at the A/B selector
> >switch located under the driver side of the coach inside the "C" channel
> >rail. You may also have a bad fuel pump, do you have a rubber hose to
> >the carb.? It should be steel line and may have plugged itself up!
> >
> >The float in the bowl of the carb. may be stuck shut which would not
> >allow fuel to reach the jets. It won't be too difficult to follow the
> >fuel line to find the problem, good luck.
> >
> >No, there should not be an electric fuel pump, there was not one OEM, of
> >course that does not mean someone hasn't tapped one in as a primer pump
> >somewhere along its life. If tou find one in line, you may want to
> >temporarily bypass it to see if it is restricting fuel flow.
> >
> >The PS lines to the wiper motor are notorious for getting hard and
> >cracking. I would suggest taking them all off and finding a local
> >hydrolic supply house to get replacements made. If you can't find
> >anyone, send them to me and I'll have some whipped up for you.
> >
> >
> >Jim Bounds
www.gmccoop.com
> >
> Thanks Jim,
> I guess I'll have to crawl under the coach and look for that pump.
> I thought I saw it tonight when I was picking up the tools. So how
> does the rocker button on the dash determine which tank is being
> used? Or is that just a button to check the amount of gas in the
> tank.
> See Ya,
> Rob Teed
Rob,
The main/aux. switch on the dash does select the tank as well as selects
the sender you are looking at. The switch has 2 circuit functions
(double pole, double throw or DPDT), first it connects the rear tank
sender (main tank) to the dash duage when the switch is in the "main"
position. When it is thrown into the "aux." position, it connects the
front tank sender to the dash guage and sends 12volts to the A/B fuel
selector solenoid switcher located in the "C" channel under the driver
side. Do not mistake the A/B solenoid for an electric fuel pump, they
may look similar, but the fuel pump will have only 2 lines going to it.
The A/B solenoid will have 3.
As stated before, you should have the same reading on eather switch
position until your fuel level reaches 1/4 tank.
I'm pleased to see that you are taking the time to understand how the
circuit works as well as how to use it, knowledge is power.
Ask if you need to know more.
Jim Bounds
www.gmccoop.com
Good luck
