stainless steel belt line ??

S

steve & debbie

New member
Jun 9, 2011
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Hello,
Noticed that you can get stainless steel bar in 2" widths, and 12' lengths. Just pondering on using polished SS bar, for the sides instead of the plastic/rubber OEM stuff.
One would think it would look very classy, all polished up...

Wonder if anyone has used SS bar if so any photos ????

cheers and beers
--
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
 
I have seen it, but don't have a pic ......I always thought it was like
putting Victoria Secret undies on Miss Piggy......just doesn't seem to work!

My opinion only ..

Mike in NS

>
>
> Hello,
> Noticed that you can get stainless steel bar in 2" widths, and 12'
> lengths. Just pondering on using polished SS bar, for the sides instead of
> the plastic/rubber OEM stuff.
> One would think it would look very classy, all polished up...
>
> Wonder if anyone has used SS bar if so any photos ????
>
> cheers and beers
> --
> Steve & Debbie
> Monticello, FL
> 77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
> EX G4WDT
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>

--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS
 
Hi, Not stainless but used the same size in aluminum. Rounded the edges with
a router then had them powder coated in silver to match the rest of the
beltline front and back. Applied a 7/8" rub strip in blue to cover the bolt
holes. Stainless would be a b**ch to work with on something like this. Lots
of holes to drill and the polishing would be tough unless it came
pre-polished which would cost you a fortune.

Here is a picture.

http://tinyurl.com/6vsxr9v

Thanks

Gary and Joanne Worobec
1973 GMC Glacier
Anza, CA

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve & debbie"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 4:20 PM
Subject: [GMCnet] stainless steel belt line ??

>
>
> Hello,
> Noticed that you can get stainless steel bar in 2" widths, and 12'
> lengths. Just pondering on using polished SS bar, for the sides instead of
> the plastic/rubber OEM stuff.
> One would think it would look very classy, all polished up...
>
> Wonder if anyone has used SS bar if so any photos ????
>
> cheers and beers
> --
> Steve & Debbie
> Monticello, FL
> 77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
> EX G4WDT
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
Gary,

That is the best looking belt line trim job I have ever seen on a GMC! It’s so nice I'm going to steal it!

Your '73 Glacier used the same belt line extrusion as my '75 Avion. I've removed the OEM trim and found that there are lot of places
where water could be leaking in.

Some questions:

1) What kind of router blade did you use to achieve that nice radius?
2) How did you hold a 20' (+) x 2" piece of aluminum strip down to radius it?
3) I assume there are screws under the blue trim strip did you use a sealer between the strip & the coach?

Any additional tips greatly appreciated!

Regards,
Rob M
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Worobec

Hi, Not stainless but used the same size in aluminum. Rounded the edges with
a router then had them powder coated in silver to match the rest of the
beltline front and back. Applied a 7/8" rub strip in blue to cover the bolt
holes. Stainless would be a b**ch to work with on something like this. Lots
of holes to drill and the polishing would be tough unless it came
pre-polished which would cost you a fortune.

Here is a picture.

http://tinyurl.com/6vsxr9v

Thanks
Gary and Joanne Worobec
 
Hey Rob,

1) Just a regular 1/4" radius 2 flute carbide cutter on a 3 hp router. I did
have to use a flap wheel to get rid of some of the cutter marks but no big
deal.

2) I have a router table where the router is mounted under the table and the
cutter sticks through. Then you set up a fence to keep the aluminum steady,
Not different than cutting wood. But wear safety glasses.

3). Yes, I actually used flathead 1/4" x 20 SS bolts and used aluminum
nutserts in all the old holes. I only sealed the top edge of the trim
because that way any water that does somehow get in there will run out the
bottom. Nutserts from http://www.hansonrivet.com/ in L.A. They have got all
sizes and the 1/4" tool to install them.

The trim is from http://tinyurl.com/89o8fs8 . I think I used the C600.
There are two cute gals who own the place that can help. It comes in all
colors. I used 7/8" wide as the counterbore for a 1/4" 20 flathead is 3/4 in
diameter.

I got the aluminum from http://tinyurl.com/7qfwx7d. These are my favorite
metal guys. I used to buy from a metal recycle place but they would never
cut anything and I have all sorts of extra pieces lying around. IMS will cut
to size free so no waste.

Hope this helps.

Thanks

Gary and Joanne Worobec
1973 GMC Glacier
Anza, CA

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Mueller"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] stainless steel belt line ??

Gary,

That is the best looking belt line trim job I have ever seen on a GMC! It's
so nice I'm going to steal it!

Your '73 Glacier used the same belt line extrusion as my '75 Avion. I've
removed the OEM trim and found that there are lot of places
where water could be leaking in.

Some questions:

1) What kind of router blade did you use to achieve that nice radius?
2) How did you hold a 20' (+) x 2" piece of aluminum strip down to radius
it?
3) I assume there are screws under the blue trim strip did you use a sealer
between the strip & the coach?

Any additional tips greatly appreciated!

Regards,
Rob M

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Worobec

Hi, Not stainless but used the same size in aluminum. Rounded the edges with
a router then had them powder coated in silver to match the rest of the
beltline front and back. Applied a 7/8" rub strip in blue to cover the bolt
holes. Stainless would be a b**ch to work with on something like this. Lots
of holes to drill and the polishing would be tough unless it came
pre-polished which would cost you a fortune.

Here is a picture.

http://tinyurl.com/6vsxr9v

Thanks
Gary and Joanne Worobec

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
Gary,

Wow, with all that info I should be able to find what I need for The Blue Streak here in Aus and Double Trouble in the USA, no
worries!

Thanks,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Gary Worobec
Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2012 12:35 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] stainless steel belt line ??

Hey Rob,

1) Just a regular 1/4" radius 2 flute carbide cutter on a 3 hp router. I did
have to use a flap wheel to get rid of some of the cutter marks but no big
deal.

2) I have a router table where the router is mounted under the table and the
cutter sticks through. Then you set up a fence to keep the aluminum steady,
Not different than cutting wood. But wear safety glasses.

3). Yes, I actually used flathead 1/4" x 20 SS bolts and used aluminum
nutserts in all the old holes. I only sealed the top edge of the trim
because that way any water that does somehow get in there will run out the
bottom. Nutserts from http://www.hansonrivet.com/ in L.A. They have got all
sizes and the 1/4" tool to install them.

The trim is from http://tinyurl.com/89o8fs8 . I think I used the C600.
There are two cute gals who own the place that can help. It comes in all
colors. I used 7/8" wide as the counterbore for a 1/4" 20 flathead is 3/4 in
diameter.

I got the aluminum from http://tinyurl.com/7qfwx7d. These are my favorite
metal guys. I used to buy from a metal recycle place but they would never
cut anything and I have all sorts of extra pieces lying around. IMS will cut
to size free so no waste.

Hope this helps.

Thanks

Gary and Joanne Worobec
1973 GMC Glacier
Anza, CA

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Mueller"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] stainless steel belt line ??

Gary,

That is the best looking belt line trim job I have ever seen on a GMC! It's
so nice I'm going to steal it!

Your '73 Glacier used the same belt line extrusion as my '75 Avion. I've
removed the OEM trim and found that there are lot of places
where water could be leaking in.

Some questions:

1) What kind of router blade did you use to achieve that nice radius?
2) How did you hold a 20' (+) x 2" piece of aluminum strip down to radius
it?
3) I assume there are screws under the blue trim strip did you use a sealer
between the strip & the coach?

Any additional tips greatly appreciated!

Regards,
Rob M

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Worobec

Hi, Not stainless but used the same size in aluminum. Rounded the edges with
a router then had them powder coated in silver to match the rest of the
beltline front and back. Applied a 7/8" rub strip in blue to cover the bolt
holes. Stainless would be a b**ch to work with on something like this. Lots
of holes to drill and the polishing would be tough unless it came
pre-polished which would cost you a fortune.

Here is a picture.

http://tinyurl.com/6vsxr9v

Thanks
Gary and Joanne Worobec

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Hello,

Points taken on using SS, love the parallel with miss piggy. :d
Did not know SS was expensive polished. Was considering polishing myself, but seems its going to look a little too
snazzy..... I did think about cutting out for lights, would be a pain in the, due to the hardness of it .....

Your beltline looks very nice, a very professional job.

On the pictures you posted i noticed the area around the coach body is rounded to the beltline, what was used to get this profile bondo or ????

Thanks guys for the opinions and help on this.

cheers and beers

--
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
 
Really looks great! I couldn't get the link to the metal supplier to work, if you have their name, I can google it.

Is it one continuous piece or did you make it up from several shorter pieces?
Definitely a look worth stealing, hope you don't mind!

--
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
 
Several 12ft. sections but cut to fit at the front

Try this link http://www.industrialmetalsupply.com

Thanks

Gary and Joanne Worobec
1973 GMC Glacier
Anza, CA

----- Original Message -----
From: "George Rudawsky"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] stainless steel belt line ??

>
>
> Really looks great! I couldn't get the link to the metal supplier to
> work, if you have their name, I can google it.
>
> Is it one continuous piece or did you make it up from several shorter
> pieces?
> Definitely a look worth stealing, hope you don't mind!
>
> --
> George Rudawsky
> Chicago, IL
> 75 Palm Beach
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
No bondo, thats just the way it was. Mine is a 73 but I don't think anything
changed??

Thanks

Gary and Joanne Worobec
1973 GMC Glacier
Anza, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve & debbie"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] stainless steel belt line ??

>
>
> Hello,
>
> Points taken on using SS, love the parallel with miss piggy. :d
> Did not know SS was expensive polished. Was considering polishing myself,
> but seems its going to look a little too
> snazzy..... I did think about cutting out for lights, would be a pain in
> the, due to the hardness of it .....
>
> Your beltline looks very nice, a very professional job.
>
> On the pictures you posted i noticed the area around the coach body is
> rounded to the beltline, what was used to get this profile bondo or ????
>
> Thanks guys for the opinions and help on this.
>
> cheers and beers
>
> --
> Steve & Debbie
> Monticello, FL
> 77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
> EX G4WDT
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
> ... Just pondering on using polished SS bar, for the sides instead of the plastic/rubber OEM stuff.
> One would think it would look very classy, all polished up...
>
> Wonder if anyone has used SS bar if so any photos ????


There was a coach at the fall western states rally that had (I think) a polished SS belt line. IIRC: A red and white coach. It looked really sharp. They left the rally at least a day early and I missed getting pictures of it. It was the leaving of this coach (and the owners :roll: ) that got me to get out my camera to take pictures of the other coaches before they left early also.
--
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#1)'73 26' exPainted D. -- (#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
http://m000035.blogspot.com
 
Hello,

"No bondo, thats just the way it was. Mine is a 73 but I don't think anything changed??.

Thats odd, the alum strips on my 77 palm beach look like a bar, with some kind of sealant between that and the body. Does not have that nice curve ike yours. SO wonder if it was changed at some point ???

cheers and beers

--
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
 
Man, that it top drawer.

--

Byron Songer
Louisville, KY
http://www.gmceast.com

Sights to see and places to stay ­
Find or submit a
GMCer recommendation
http://www.gmceast.com/travel

> Hi, Not stainless but used the same size in aluminum. Rounded the edges with
> a router then had them powder coated in silver to match the rest of the
> beltline front and back. Applied a 7/8" rub strip in blue to cover the bolt
> holes. Stainless would be a b**ch to work with on something like this. Lots
> of holes to drill and the polishing would be tough unless it came
> pre-polished which would cost you a fortune.
>
> Here is a picture.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/6vsxr9v
>
> Thanks
>
> Gary and Joanne Worobec
> 1973 GMC Glacier
> Anza, CA
>
>
 
Steve,

I'm not sure of when the change was incorporated but on early coaches the aluminum extrusion at the mid body line changed. I am not
talking about the chrome trim piece I am talking about the aluminum extrusion that is welded into the body frame.

Early versions (73 - 74 -75) had the aluminum and fiberglass epoxied and pop riveted to the surface of the extrusion. There is a
raised section that is about 1/2" wide in between them.

Later versions (77 -78) had slots on the top and bottom of the extrusion that the aluminum sheet and fiberglass panels would slip
into. I GUESS that the panels were glued in and didn't need pop rivets.

I'm not sure about 76 as I am GUESSING about the dates.

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: steve & debbie

Hello,

Thats odd, the alum strips on my 77 palm beach look like a bar, with some kind of sealant between that and the body. Does not have
that nice curve ike yours. SO wonder if it was changed at some point ???

cheers and beers

--
Steve
 
Hello,

"Later versions (77 -78) had slots on the top and bottom of the extrusion that the aluminum sheet and fiberglass panels would slip into. I GUESS that the panels were glued in and didn't need pop rivets."

How would that affect taking the alum strips off on a 77 ???.
Are they screwed on, or glued ???. After finding out some are different then, don't want no surprises, when i reseal behind those.

cheers and beers

--
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
 
You cannot remove the side aluminum strips on a 77 very easily as they are a structural welded and bonded part of the side behind the smc cock pit and ahead of the smc end cap.

Sully
77 royale
------Original Message------
From: steve & debbie
Sender: gmclist-bounces
To: gmclist
ReplyTo: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] stainless steel belt line ??
Sent: Jan 11, 2012 7:50 PM

Hello,

"Later versions (77 -78) had slots on the top and bottom of the extrusion that the aluminum sheet and fiberglass panels would slip into. I GUESS that the panels were glued in and didn't need pop rivets."

How would that affect taking the alum strips off on a 77 ???.
Are they screwed on, or glued ???. After finding out some are different then, don't want no surprises, when i reseal behind those.

cheers and beers

--
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
_______________________________________________
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
 
G'day,

I think we're getting parts confused here!

Ref Parts Book 78Z

Page 23-15
Figure 23.026 Panels and Framing - LH Side
Key 27 - BEAM - belt rail, LH side longitudinal (eff. w/Serial No. 6V100878)

This is the extrusion that the aluminum upper and fiberglass lower panel attach to. You can't remove it on any year coach it is a
structural member.

Page 23-92
Figure 23.130 Moulding - Body Side (First Design)

Page 23-95
Figure 23.130H Moulding - Body Side (Second Design0

These are the OEM trim pieces that Gary replaced.

Regards,
Rob M.
 
Robert,

I am now confused a little. If as you suggest they are not removable, then how do you reseal them, or is that not possible ??. Sorry if i am seeming to be a little bit backwards on this !!!

cheers and beers
--
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
 
Steve,

Download the Parts Book 78Z here: http://www.bdub.net/factory-manuals.html and save a copy on your PC for future reference.

See page 23-14 Key 27 - Beam, belt rail - This is the part that cannot be removed it is welded into the body frame.

See page 23-95 Key 7 - Rail - rub - This is rubber and held to the beam with double sided pressure sensitive tape.

The early coaches were different.

See page 23-92 Key 1 - Moulding - This part is stainless steel, is screwed into the beam above, and can be removed.

See page 23-92 Key 6 - Rail assembly - This is rubber and must be pulled out of Key 1 to access the screws that hold the moulding
on.

Does it make sense now?

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: steve & debbie

Robert,

I am now confused a little. If as you suggest they are not removable, then how do you reseal them, or is that not possible ??. Sorry
if i am seeming to be a little bit backwards on this !!!

cheers and beers
--
Steve
 
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