Splitting at the seams

[Seankidd]

I need to go on a diet, but my 73 Canyonlands needs some repair, I believe I’ve read that the best backyard/shade tree fix is to literally park nest to sturdy tree and jack a post against the skin to push everything in place after squeezing the best adhesive money can buy into the crevices.

1. What adhesive should I be using, and what prep?
2. Should I cut a contoured 2x10 to compress more of the seam
3. Are rivets the best solution (along with adhesive)

 

[daver]

If a new paintjob is in the near future, I suggest tripling the rivets immediately after gluing. After the glue is cured, gouge out the filler and old gasket material, taper the FG and aluminum and fill with kitty hair type bondo.
Slightly grind the rivets before feathering out with filler so you don't have to feather out more than 8 or 12" to hide the seam.
The different thermal characteristics of FG and aluminum will probably yield a hairline crack but very doubtful the joint will leak.

 

[Keith V]

... will probably yield a hairline crack but very doubtful the joint will leak.

Due to osmosis a hairline crack is worse than a bigger gap as it will suck any available water through said crack at volumes approaching a firehose

 

[Seankidd]

Do you mean capillarity? I won’t fill the seam, intentional seams were never intended to be filled and will always crack.