Speaker help needed

H

hdavis

New member
Mar 13, 1998
518
0
0
Folks,

My coach is "in the shop" getting a new expansion valve and drier for the
automotive A/C. I've been trying to find some decent speakers for the front
of the coach (they need to go into the existing mounts) and just found some
3" and 3.5" speakers that sound pretty good. Now my problem: I don't know
the dimensions of the OEM speakers. CAn anyone give me a hand? I'd like to
pick up the speakers tomorrow afternoon on my way back from Manny's. I need
diameter and depth.

Thanks,

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (831) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
 
The speaker is about 31/4" in dia. and about 11/2" deep, Looks like 13/4" is
the deepest it'll take without mod to housing. Thats what mine looks like.

Ron&Gina
73 Pumpkin-Rose
Ft. Mohave, AZ.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Henry Davis
To:
Sent: Monday, July 26, 1999 9:20 PM
Subject: GMC: Speaker help needed

> Folks,
>
> My coach is "in the shop" getting a new expansion valve and drier for the
> automotive A/C. I've been trying to find some decent speakers for the
front
> of the coach (they need to go into the existing mounts) and just found
some
> 3" and 3.5" speakers that sound pretty good. Now my problem: I don't know
> the dimensions of the OEM speakers. CAn anyone give me a hand? I'd like to
> pick up the speakers tomorrow afternoon on my way back from Manny's. I
need
> diameter and depth.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Henry
>
> Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
> PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
> Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
> ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
> fax: (831) 462-5198
> http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
>
 
Henry,
God luck, there is not much you can do to get descent bass from a 3.5"
speaker in the factory front location.

When I do restorations, I mount a pair of 6 1/2" speakers under the
overhead cabinets to augment the "too small" front speakers. I also wire
them "channel swapped". The right side output pushes the driver side 6
1/2" speaker. This gives you more of a stereo seperation effect wether you
are in the driver, passenger or sofa seats.

Any descent 2 way 6 1/2" speaker works well, I would suggest in that the
speaker is facing down that you get a pair that has screw on grill as
opposed to snap on. The snap on grills have a tendancy of falling off! I
use a standard quality 3.5" speaker up front, bass is a futile excercise
for this speaker anyway and most any descent 3.5" speaker will give you
good mids and hi's.

Hope this helps,

Jim Bounds
- -----------------

>In a message dated 7/26/99 11:20:34 PM Central Daylight Time,

>
>mine with Radio Shack # 40-1325A (NAPA - Audiovox # 730-3697); The rear 4" x
>10" is Audiovox # RSP410. These sound as good as OEM, but if you find
>something better, I'd like the brand & part #.
>
>Lanier
>
>
Jim Bounds/Co-op Motor Works Orlando www.gmccoop.com
 
Henry,
By the way, if your coach is 1975 or before, you will probobly need to
rewire the speakers if you put a new radio in dash. The early coaches were
wired "common ground" which means there is a common wire for all of the
speakers to ground. Most new radios require a descrete or seperate ground
to each speaker to produce the newer hi power output.

If you only have 5 wires on the factory speaker plug, you have this
problem. If you have 8 wires, you have a descrete wire set up and is OK
for hi power units.

Hope this helps,

Jim Bounds

P.S. The rear OEM locations require a 4x10" speaker with a small magnet
structure to fit in the hole. Radio shacks cheapest speaker fit well and
actually does not sound bad!

>Folks,
>
>My coach is "in the shop" getting a new expansion valve and drier for the
>automotive A/C. I've been trying to find some decent speakers for the front
>of the coach (they need to go into the existing mounts) and just found some
>3" and 3.5" speakers that sound pretty good. Now my problem: I don't know
>the dimensions of the OEM speakers. CAn anyone give me a hand? I'd like to
>pick up the speakers tomorrow afternoon on my way back from Manny's. I need
>diameter and depth.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Henry
>
>Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
>PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
>Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
>ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
>fax: (831) 462-5198
>http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
>
>
>
Jim Bounds/Co-op Motor Works Orlando www.gmccoop.com
 
Jim,
Now you tell me ! With all the other &@^% I'm going
through, now I have to worry about the speaker grills
falling off!

I bought a pair of very nice 6.5" speakers from Crutchfield
that fit in the headliner and the grills are the the snap
on type. I sure they don't fall off.
Richard Waters

>
>
I would suggest in that the
> speaker is facing down that you get a pair that has screw on grill as
> opposed to snap on. The snap on grills have a tendancy of falling off!
>
 
Guys,
At least this is one thing I don't have to worry about when my Lady joins
the family.{:>) Factory speakers will sound just like a Bose system to me.

Do like the air horn ideas as I may be able to hear them.
Roger
 
> The speaker is about 31/4" in dia. and about 11/2" deep, Looks like 13/4" is
> the deepest it'll take without mod to housing. Thats what mine looks like.
>
The other thing that can cause clearance problems is the size of the magnet.

Henry, if you can find an "Infinity Reference 3012cf" at the store you are
shopping, take a look at it. It's magnet is a little too big (I tried it) so if
you go with one a little smaller you know it'll fit.

Richard
 
>Henry,
>God luck, there is not much you can do to get descent bass from a 3.5"
>speaker in the factory front location.

Yeah, wave length of sound does get in the way of small speakers doing a
good job of base reproduction. I was in Fry's Electronics yesterday and
found Infinity 3.5" speakers that sound pretty good (missing on the base as
expected).

>
>When I do restorations, I mount a pair of 6 1/2" speakers under the
>overhead cabinets to augment the "too small" front speakers. I also wire
>them "channel swapped". The right side output pushes the driver side 6
>1/2" speaker. This gives you more of a stereo seperation effect wether you
>are in the driver, passenger or sofa seats.

This was someting that I was considering since I want to use the auto
stereo for my DVD playback and when listening to music in the dinette area.
Thanks for the advice.

>
>Any descent 2 way 6 1/2" speaker works well, I would suggest in that the
>speaker is facing down that you get a pair that has screw on grill as
>opposed to snap on. The snap on grills have a tendancy of falling off! I
>use a standard quality 3.5" speaker up front, bass is a futile excercise
>for this speaker anyway and most any descent 3.5" speaker will give you
>good mids and hi's.
>

>-----------------

>>In a message dated 7/26/99 11:20:34 PM Central Daylight Time,

>>
>>replaced
>>mine with Radio Shack # 40-1325A (NAPA - Audiovox # 730-3697); The rear
4" x
>>10" is Audiovox # RSP410. These sound as good as OEM, but if you find
>>something better, I'd like the brand & part #.
>>
>>Lanier

I'll let you know how my new speakers work out when I get them installed.

Henry
Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (831) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
 
Henry,

I installed a pair of Infinity Kappa 32.1cf speakers from Crutchfield up
front.

The catalog says these 3.5" speakers require 1 - 9/16" behind them and the
tweeter protrudes 3/8" in front when mounted.

They went in OK with some minor modifications.

I would think any speakers with these dimensions or less would work for
these have a huge magnet.

These speakers sound much better than the Wal-Mart upgrade the previous
owner made and handle an astonishing amount of power for their size.

Don Miller
75 project
Shenandoah Valley of Virginia

> My coach is "in the shop" getting a new expansion valve and drier for the
> automotive A/C. I've been trying to find some decent speakers for the
front
> of the coach (they need to go into the existing mounts) and just found
some
> 3" and 3.5" speakers that sound pretty good. Now my problem: I don't know
> the dimensions of the OEM speakers. CAn anyone give me a hand? I'd like to
> pick up the speakers tomorrow afternoon on my way back from Manny's. I
need
> diameter and depth.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Henry
 
Why don't you RVing audiophiles put a small sub-woofer under one of the
couches and crank it all the way up. Works in my home theater.
Dick 75 PB in Atlanta (still on blocks)

>>Henry,
>>God luck, there is not much you can do to get descent bass from a 3.5"
>>speaker in the factory front location.
>
>Yeah, wave length of sound does get in the way of small speakers doing a
>good job of base reproduction. I was in Fry's Electronics yesterday and
>found Infinity 3.5" speakers that sound pretty good (missing on the base as
>expected).
>
>>
>>When I do restorations, I mount a pair of 6 1/2" speakers under the
>>overhead cabinets to augment the "too small" front speakers. I also wire
>>them "channel swapped". The right side output pushes the driver side 6
>>1/2" speaker. This gives you more of a stereo seperation effect wether you
>>are in the driver, passenger or sofa seats.
>
>This was someting that I was considering since I want to use the auto
>stereo for my DVD playback and when listening to music in the dinette area.
>Thanks for the advice.
>
>>
>>Any descent 2 way 6 1/2" speaker works well, I would suggest in that the
>>speaker is facing down that you get a pair that has screw on grill as
>>opposed to snap on. The snap on grills have a tendancy of falling off! I
>>use a standard quality 3.5" speaker up front, bass is a futile excercise
>>for this speaker anyway and most any descent 3.5" speaker will give you
>>good mids and hi's.
>>
>
>>-----------------

>>>In a message dated 7/26/99 11:20:34 PM Central Daylight Time,

>>>
>>>>replaced
>>>mine with Radio Shack # 40-1325A (NAPA - Audiovox # 730-3697); The rear
>4" x
>>>10" is Audiovox # RSP410. These sound as good as OEM, but if you find
>>>something better, I'd like the brand & part #.
>>>
>>>Lanier
>
>I'll let you know how my new speakers work out when I get them installed.
>
>Henry
>Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
>PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
>Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
>ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
>fax: (831) 462-5198
>http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
>
>
 
Where did you install the 6.5's in the headliner?

Wayne Newland

> Jim,
> Now you tell me ! With all the other &@^% I'm going
> through, now I have to worry about the speaker grills
> falling off!
>
> I bought a pair of very nice 6.5" speakers from Crutchfield
> that fit in the headliner and the grills are the the snap
> on type. I sure they don't fall off.
> Richard Waters
>

> >
> >
> I would suggest in that the
> > speaker is facing down that you get a pair that has screw on grill as
> > opposed to snap on. The snap on grills have a tendancy of falling off!
> >
 
Wayne,
I got surface mount speakers from Crutchfield with a depth of
1 5/8". They fit in the headliner just behind the plastic
driver's compartment headliner. They barely fit, but I think it's
worth it because I didn't want to give up space in the lockers
by installing them facing down. Also, it just seemed right
to have speakers in the headliner.

I had to build a subpanel out of 1/4" plywood, pop rivited to
aluminum angle irons rivited to some cross members in the
ceiling to mount the speakers. Or course I had the headliner out.

I took pictures of the procedure with my camcorder. I could do a
video capture and post them to my company's webpage.
Richard
- ----

>
> Where did you install the 6.5's in the headliner?
>
> Wayne Newland
>

>
> > Jim,
> > Now you tell me ! With all the other &@^% I'm going
> > through, now I have to worry about the speaker grills
> > falling off!
> >
> > I bought a pair of very nice 6.5" speakers from Crutchfield
> > that fit in the headliner and the grills are the the snap
> > on type. I sure they don't fall off.
> > Richard Waters
> >

> > >
> > >
> > I would suggest in that the
> > > speaker is facing down that you get a pair that has screw on grill as
> > > opposed to snap on. The snap on grills have a tendancy of falling off!
> > >
 
Richard

A picture or maybe several would be great. I have just about finished my
headliner and day/night shades. If I'm going to do what you did, now is the
time. Thanks

Wayne

> Wayne,
> I got surface mount speakers from Crutchfield with a depth of
> 1 5/8". They fit in the headliner just behind the plastic
> driver's compartment headliner. They barely fit, but I think it's
> worth it because I didn't want to give up space in the lockers
> by installing them facing down. Also, it just seemed right
> to have speakers in the headliner.
>
> I had to build a subpanel out of 1/4" plywood, pop rivited to
> aluminum angle irons rivited to some cross members in the
> ceiling to mount the speakers. Or course I had the headliner out.
>
> I took pictures of the procedure with my camcorder. I could do a
> video capture and post them to my company's webpage.
> Richard
> ----

> >
> > Where did you install the 6.5's in the headliner?
> >
> > Wayne Newland
> >

> >
> > > Jim,
> > > Now you tell me ! With all the other &@^% I'm going
> > > through, now I have to worry about the speaker grills
> > > falling off!
> > >
> > > I bought a pair of very nice 6.5" speakers from Crutchfield
> > > that fit in the headliner and the grills are the the snap
> > > on type. I sure they don't fall off.
> > > Richard Waters
> > >

> > > >
> > > >
> > > I would suggest in that the
> > > > speaker is facing down that you get a pair that has screw on grill as
> > > > opposed to snap on. The snap on grills have a tendancy of falling off!
> > > >
 
Richard,
If you are like me, I've got many more things to worry about than to stay
up nights thinking about falling speaker grills! It stinks but there are
very few speakers that have screw on grills anymore.

I installed a set of Blaupunkt speakers that used little butyl rubber gobbs
to hold on the metal mesh grills, they fell off in a couple of days! If
the snap on grills are fastened properly, they have a slot where the
indention goes that will hold them on well.

While we're on the subject, I have put and do like the sound from speakers
in the headliner but you must be sure you use a "thin mount" speaker
because spacers I have seen people make because they did not consider the
depth issue really look bad not to mention make a nasty scar on your
forehead when you bump into them.

Another issue is you must secure any speaker to a rigid opening that acts
as a baffle board to enhanse the sound quality. Any speaker will sound bad
if you operate it in open air "without a baffle board or enclosure".

I found it much easier to recomend installing the speakers under the
overhead cabinets as opposed to getting into all of this, so I applaude
anyone that can properly mount a pair of speakers in the headliner. Good
show old bean!!!

Jim Bounds
- ---------------

>Wayne,
>I got surface mount speakers from Crutchfield with a depth of
>1 5/8". They fit in the headliner just behind the plastic
>driver's compartment headliner. They barely fit, but I think it's
>worth it because I didn't want to give up space in the lockers
>by installing them facing down. Also, it just seemed right
>to have speakers in the headliner.
>
>I had to build a subpanel out of 1/4" plywood, pop rivited to
>aluminum angle irons rivited to some cross members in the
>ceiling to mount the speakers. Or course I had the headliner out.
>
>I took pictures of the procedure with my camcorder. I could do a
>video capture and post them to my company's webpage.
>Richard
>----

>>
>> Where did you install the 6.5's in the headliner?
>>
>> Wayne Newland
>>

>>
>> > Jim,
>> > Now you tell me ! With all the other &@^% I'm going
>> > through, now I have to worry about the speaker grills
>> > falling off!
>> >
>> > I bought a pair of very nice 6.5" speakers from Crutchfield
>> > that fit in the headliner and the grills are the the snap
>> > on type. I sure they don't fall off.
>> > Richard Waters
>> >

>> > >
>> > >
>> > I would suggest in that the
>> > > speaker is facing down that you get a pair that has screw on grill as
>> > > opposed to snap on. The snap on grills have a tendancy of falling off!
>> > >
>
>
Jim Bounds/Co-op Motor Works Orlando www.gmccoop.com
 
Yo, homy "G"- wss uppp- say ya wanna buss-a-moov ina motahomm, lets pump it
up!!!

I am sorry for that, but I was thinking back to my days working with
Circuit City installing systems for IASCA crank-up contests. If you want
to hear a really nice set up, get in touch with Jim Fultz in Chicago. He
had an Aerostar van that won many national contests and he put together a
very tight set up in his GMC.

I have a coach in my shop right now with a 4th order band pass box that
takes up 2/3 of the underneith of the sofa, all Alpine with 6 1/2 and
others scattered out all over the coach.

All it takes is "cubic dollars" and anything can be done! Are you game??

Jim Bounds
- ----------------

>Why don't you RVing audiophiles put a small sub-woofer under one of the
>couches and crank it all the way up. Works in my home theater.
>Dick 75 PB in Atlanta (still on blocks)
>

>>>Henry,
>>>God luck, there is not much you can do to get descent bass from a 3.5"
>>>speaker in the factory front location.
>>
>>Yeah, wave length of sound does get in the way of small speakers doing a
>>good job of base reproduction. I was in Fry's Electronics yesterday and
>>found Infinity 3.5" speakers that sound pretty good (missing on the base as
>>expected).
>>
>>>
>>>When I do restorations, I mount a pair of 6 1/2" speakers under the
>>>overhead cabinets to augment the "too small" front speakers. I also wire
>>>them "channel swapped". The right side output pushes the driver side 6
>>>1/2" speaker. This gives you more of a stereo seperation effect wether you
>>>are in the driver, passenger or sofa seats.
>>
>>This was someting that I was considering since I want to use the auto
>>stereo for my DVD playback and when listening to music in the dinette area.
>>Thanks for the advice.
>>
>>>
>>>Any descent 2 way 6 1/2" speaker works well, I would suggest in that the
>>>speaker is facing down that you get a pair that has screw on grill as
>>>opposed to snap on. The snap on grills have a tendancy of falling off! I
>>>use a standard quality 3.5" speaker up front, bass is a futile excercise
>>>for this speaker anyway and most any descent 3.5" speaker will give you
>>>good mids and hi's.
>>>
>>
>>>-----------------

>>>>In a message dated 7/26/99 11:20:34 PM Central Daylight Time,

>>>>
>>>>>>replaced
>>>>mine with Radio Shack # 40-1325A (NAPA - Audiovox # 730-3697); The rear
>>4" x
>>>>10" is Audiovox # RSP410. These sound as good as OEM, but if you find
>>>>something better, I'd like the brand & part #.
>>>>
>>>>Lanier
>>
>>I'll let you know how my new speakers work out when I get them installed.
>>
>>Henry
>>Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
>>PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
>>Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
>>ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
>>fax: (831) 462-5198
>>http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
Jim Bounds/Co-op Motor Works Orlando www.gmccoop.com
 
Jim,
The speaker installation is complete. This is what I did:

Bought Kenwood KFC-1676 6.5" speakers with a surface mount depth
of 1.75" (I said 1 5/8" before). I figured that with the new headliner
(1/8" Laun plywood with about 1/8" of fuzzy stuff glued to it)
the speaker has more then 1/8" clearance. By the way I had to
remove all the insulation to make room for the speaker magnets.
I didn't have to use spacers.

To mount the speakers I installed pieces of 1/4" plywood (the width
of the bays on each side aft of the plastic cockpit headliner. The
plywood is attached to the roof (rafter?) with 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum
angle iron. I used pop rivits to attach everything. The plywood is
flush to the roof rafters.

The plywood I think acts as a baffle. I stuffed some insulation
behind the plywood to help the sound. The speakers sound good
(my 2 sons, who know speakers like most teenagers, said they sound
pretty cool).

I connected the the 2 OEM speakers to my Cobra Compact Remote Mount
CB. That way I can listen to the CB and the radio.

I have a Kenwood 10 CD changer mounted in the locker over the dinette.
I can control the CD changer from the Kenwood radio I installed.
The speakers in the back are from Radio Shack as you have suggested
in the past. The PO had already installed them I added some fiberglass
insulation behind them because they used to rattle when the sound
is turned up (my sons).

I'm going to use a FM Modulator to allow me to pipe in the sound
from the new DVD player to the sound system. I have not done that
yet.

So far the speaker grills have stayed up. They snap on with a twist.
If
they fall off I guess I'll glue them up or something. I painted the
grills
with the same stuff I painted all the plastic parts. They look like
they
came from the factory white. They were black.

>
> Richard,
> If you are like me, I've got many more things to worry about than to stay
> up nights thinking about falling speaker grills! It stinks but there are
> very few speakers that have screw on grills anymore.
>
> I installed a set of Blaupunkt speakers that used little butyl rubber gobbs
> to hold on the metal mesh grills, they fell off in a couple of days! If
> the snap on grills are fastened properly, they have a slot where the
> indention goes that will hold them on well.
>
> While we're on the subject, I have put and do like the sound from speakers
> in the headliner but you must be sure you use a "thin mount" speaker
> because spacers I have seen people make because they did not consider the
> depth issue really look bad not to mention make a nasty scar on your
> forehead when you bump into them.
>
> Another issue is you must secure any speaker to a rigid opening that acts
> as a baffle board to enhanse the sound quality. Any speaker will sound bad
> if you operate it in open air "without a baffle board or enclosure".
>
> I found it much easier to recomend installing the speakers under the
> overhead cabinets as opposed to getting into all of this, so I applaude
> anyone that can properly mount a pair of speakers in the headliner. Good
> show old bean!!!
>
> Jim Bounds
> ---------------
 
Richard,
You did good, your sons are probobly a good test! The 1/4" board is acting
as a baffle and is gicing you extended bass.

Did you cross the outputs on the ceiling speakers? This will really help
your imaging.

I think the placemant of the 4x10's in the back is why they sound OK.
Standing in the back, you are in the focal point of them near ear level.

Let me know if I can help further,

Jim Bounds
- ------------------

>Jim,
>The speaker installation is complete. This is what I did:
>
>Bought Kenwood KFC-1676 6.5" speakers with a surface mount depth
>of 1.75" (I said 1 5/8" before). I figured that with the new headliner
>(1/8" Laun plywood with about 1/8" of fuzzy stuff glued to it)
>the speaker has more then 1/8" clearance. By the way I had to
>remove all the insulation to make room for the speaker magnets.
>I didn't have to use spacers.
>
>To mount the speakers I installed pieces of 1/4" plywood (the width
>of the bays on each side aft of the plastic cockpit headliner. The
>plywood is attached to the roof (rafter?) with 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum
>angle iron. I used pop rivits to attach everything. The plywood is
>flush to the roof rafters.
>
>The plywood I think acts as a baffle. I stuffed some insulation
>behind the plywood to help the sound. The speakers sound good
>(my 2 sons, who know speakers like most teenagers, said they sound
>pretty cool).
>
>I connected the the 2 OEM speakers to my Cobra Compact Remote Mount
>CB. That way I can listen to the CB and the radio.
>
>I have a Kenwood 10 CD changer mounted in the locker over the dinette.
>I can control the CD changer from the Kenwood radio I installed.
>The speakers in the back are from Radio Shack as you have suggested
>in the past. The PO had already installed them I added some fiberglass
>insulation behind them because they used to rattle when the sound
>is turned up (my sons).
>
>I'm going to use a FM Modulator to allow me to pipe in the sound
>from the new DVD player to the sound system. I have not done that
>yet.
>
>So far the speaker grills have stayed up. They snap on with a twist.
>If
>they fall off I guess I'll glue them up or something. I painted the
>grills
>with the same stuff I painted all the plastic parts. They look like
>they
>came from the factory white. They were black.
>
>

>>
>> Richard,
>> If you are like me, I've got many more things to worry about than to stay
>> up nights thinking about falling speaker grills! It stinks but there are
>> very few speakers that have screw on grills anymore.
>>
>> I installed a set of Blaupunkt speakers that used little butyl rubber gobbs
>> to hold on the metal mesh grills, they fell off in a couple of days! If
>> the snap on grills are fastened properly, they have a slot where the
>> indention goes that will hold them on well.
>>
>> While we're on the subject, I have put and do like the sound from speakers
>> in the headliner but you must be sure you use a "thin mount" speaker
>> because spacers I have seen people make because they did not consider the
>> depth issue really look bad not to mention make a nasty scar on your
>> forehead when you bump into them.
>>
>> Another issue is you must secure any speaker to a rigid opening that acts
>> as a baffle board to enhanse the sound quality. Any speaker will sound bad
>> if you operate it in open air "without a baffle board or enclosure".
>>
>> I found it much easier to recomend installing the speakers under the
>> overhead cabinets as opposed to getting into all of this, so I applaude
>> anyone that can properly mount a pair of speakers in the headliner. Good
>> show old bean!!!
>>
>> Jim Bounds
>> ---------------
>
>
Jim Bounds/Co-op Motor Works Orlando www.gmccoop.com
 
Jim,
Yes I did cross the speakers because of your earlier
posts to the GMCnet. It really does seem to improve the
sound quality.

Years ago I seem to recall that GM crossed the speakers in
their cars. At least I seem to remember reading that in the
owner's manual of a GM car from way back in the 70's.

Thanks for the help,
Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
- -----

>
> Did you cross the outputs on the ceiling speakers? This will really help
> your imaging.
>
> I think the placemant of the 4x10's in the back is why they sound OK.
> Standing in the back, you are in the focal point of them near ear level.
>
> Let me know if I can help further,
>
> Jim Bounds
> ------------------

> >Jim,
> >The speaker installation is complete. This is what I did:
> >
> >Bought Kenwood KFC-1676 6.5" speakers with a surface mount depth
> >of 1.75" (I said 1 5/8" before). I figured that with the new headliner
> >(1/8" Laun plywood with about 1/8" of fuzzy stuff glued to it)
> >the speaker has more then 1/8" clearance. By the way I had to
> >remove all the insulation to make room for the speaker magnets.
> >I didn't have to use spacers.
> >
> >To mount the speakers I installed pieces of 1/4" plywood (the width
> >of the bays on each side aft of the plastic cockpit headliner. The
> >plywood is attached to the roof (rafter?) with 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum
> >angle iron. I used pop rivits to attach everything. The plywood is
> >flush to the roof rafters.
> >
> >The plywood I think acts as a baffle. I stuffed some insulation
> >behind the plywood to help the sound. The speakers sound good
> >(my 2 sons, who know speakers like most teenagers, said they sound
> >pretty cool).
> >
> >I connected the the 2 OEM speakers to my Cobra Compact Remote Mount
> >CB. That way I can listen to the CB and the radio.
> >
> >I have a Kenwood 10 CD changer mounted in the locker over the dinette.
> >I can control the CD changer from the Kenwood radio I installed.
> >The speakers in the back are from Radio Shack as you have suggested
> >in the past. The PO had already installed them I added some fiberglass
> >insulation behind them because they used to rattle when the sound
> >is turned up (my sons).
> >
> >I'm going to use a FM Modulator to allow me to pipe in the sound
> >from the new DVD player to the sound system. I have not done that
> >yet.
> >
> >So far the speaker grills have stayed up. They snap on with a twist.
> >If
> >they fall off I guess I'll glue them up or something. I painted the
> >grills
> >with the same stuff I painted all the plastic parts. They look like
> >they
> >came from the factory white. They were black.
> >
> >

> >>
> >> Richard,
> >> If you are like me, I've got many more things to worry about than to stay
> >> up nights thinking about falling speaker grills! It stinks but there are
> >> very few speakers that have screw on grills anymore.
> >>
> >> I installed a set of Blaupunkt speakers that used little butyl rubber gobbs
> >> to hold on the metal mesh grills, they fell off in a couple of days! If
> >> the snap on grills are fastened properly, they have a slot where the
> >> indention goes that will hold them on well.
> >>
> >> While we're on the subject, I have put and do like the sound from speakers
> >> in the headliner but you must be sure you use a "thin mount" speaker
> >> because spacers I have seen people make because they did not consider the
> >> depth issue really look bad not to mention make a nasty scar on your
> >> forehead when you bump into them.
> >>
> >> Another issue is you must secure any speaker to a rigid opening that acts
> >> as a baffle board to enhanse the sound quality. Any speaker will sound bad
> >> if you operate it in open air "without a baffle board or enclosure".
> >>
> >> I found it much easier to recomend installing the speakers under the
> >> overhead cabinets as opposed to getting into all of this, so I applaude
> >> anyone that can properly mount a pair of speakers in the headliner. Good
> >> show old bean!!!
> >>
> >> Jim Bounds
> >> ---------------
> >
> >
> Jim Bounds/Co-op Motor Works Orlando www.gmccoop.com
 
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