Dave,
I too have fought this battle. I hate TVS. Period. I've eliminated
this system on every car I've had that uses it and gone to a ported
vacuum source. Using ported vacuum, which is from a source located
above the throttle plates, the advance mechanism in the distributer is
allowed to move to suit the demands of the engine. When vacuum levels
are high, as in part throttle cruising, you have max advance. When
vacuum levels are low, as when the engine is under heavy load, you have
little or no vacuum advance and the engine operates under initial
advance, which is what you set with a timing light. There is an old
trick that still works better than anything other than a dyno for
setting initial advance, (or timing as it's sometime called), and that
is to set your initial advance to the factory setting and test it under
maximum load. Usually a long grade or steep hill. If you detect engine
detonation, retard the timing a degree & try again. Repeat this until
there is no longer any pinging during your testing. This is the optimum
setting for your engine. The other side of this test is if there is no
detonation at the factory setting, add a degree and try again. Still no
pinging? Add another and so forth. Bear in mind however, that this
method only works when the TVS is by-passed and you are using a ported
source of vacuum for the distributer. Also, take a moment to test the
vacuum advance mechanism by using a hand pump (MityVac) or sucking on
the vacuum line to the distributer while the engine is idling and note
the increase in idle speed. If there is an increase with the
application of vacuum and subsequent decrease when you remove the
vacuum, rest assured that the distributer vacuum advance is working
properly. It's tough to accomplish more than this without using the
costly dyno method.
To answer your original question about the plate movement; With no
vacuum signal present, the mechanism rests spring-loaded against a stop.
The vacuum signal overcomes the spring tension and moves the plate.
Vacuum applied to the distributer will advance the timing, not retard
it.
There is one other advance mechanism in the distributer that adds into
the overall equation and it is called "mechanical" advance. I won't go
into that here since your concern seems to be with the initial and
vacuum side of the house and also because working with mechanical
advance requires the use of some specialized equipment.
BTW, a quick check for a "ported" source of vacuum is to use a gauge
to test all of the ports on the carburetor (above the base plate) while
the engine is idling. When you find one that registers zero at idle &
increases as you advance the throttle, you've found your source.
HTH,
Steve Ferguson
I too have fought this battle. I hate TVS. Period. I've eliminated
this system on every car I've had that uses it and gone to a ported
vacuum source. Using ported vacuum, which is from a source located
above the throttle plates, the advance mechanism in the distributer is
allowed to move to suit the demands of the engine. When vacuum levels
are high, as in part throttle cruising, you have max advance. When
vacuum levels are low, as when the engine is under heavy load, you have
little or no vacuum advance and the engine operates under initial
advance, which is what you set with a timing light. There is an old
trick that still works better than anything other than a dyno for
setting initial advance, (or timing as it's sometime called), and that
is to set your initial advance to the factory setting and test it under
maximum load. Usually a long grade or steep hill. If you detect engine
detonation, retard the timing a degree & try again. Repeat this until
there is no longer any pinging during your testing. This is the optimum
setting for your engine. The other side of this test is if there is no
detonation at the factory setting, add a degree and try again. Still no
pinging? Add another and so forth. Bear in mind however, that this
method only works when the TVS is by-passed and you are using a ported
source of vacuum for the distributer. Also, take a moment to test the
vacuum advance mechanism by using a hand pump (MityVac) or sucking on
the vacuum line to the distributer while the engine is idling and note
the increase in idle speed. If there is an increase with the
application of vacuum and subsequent decrease when you remove the
vacuum, rest assured that the distributer vacuum advance is working
properly. It's tough to accomplish more than this without using the
costly dyno method.
To answer your original question about the plate movement; With no
vacuum signal present, the mechanism rests spring-loaded against a stop.
The vacuum signal overcomes the spring tension and moves the plate.
Vacuum applied to the distributer will advance the timing, not retard
it.
There is one other advance mechanism in the distributer that adds into
the overall equation and it is called "mechanical" advance. I won't go
into that here since your concern seems to be with the initial and
vacuum side of the house and also because working with mechanical
advance requires the use of some specialized equipment.
BTW, a quick check for a "ported" source of vacuum is to use a gauge
to test all of the ports on the carburetor (above the base plate) while
the engine is idling. When you find one that registers zero at idle &
increases as you advance the throttle, you've found your source.
HTH,
Steve Ferguson