> Be aware of the bolt lengths. You want the bolt to go all the way through the flange for maximum thread contact.
>
> BUT if you have a One-Ton front end, the axle flange on one side is thinner than the other side (or maybe both flanges are thinner than OEM.. I
> don't recall). This allows the bolt to extend through and it will hit the final drive casing. So those with the One-Ton must ensure the bolt shank
> does not extend through beyond the flange and check for clearances. I believe this affects the drivers side.
Dang, I finally got my new OE style cv boot installed and I just realized my new flange bolts are too short, I bought 1" and they have to be 1-1/4",
maybe even 1-1/2" would do.
Hard to find now, NLA at Grainger and Fastenal, checking some other places.
Some debate about if a typical split-ring lockwasher does any locking due to the bolt hardness, how about using Nord-locks?
--
Burl Vibert
Kingston, Ontario
1976 GMC 26 foot, Sheridan reno, don't know original model but we call her Roxie
>
> BUT if you have a One-Ton front end, the axle flange on one side is thinner than the other side (or maybe both flanges are thinner than OEM.. I
> don't recall). This allows the bolt to extend through and it will hit the final drive casing. So those with the One-Ton must ensure the bolt shank
> does not extend through beyond the flange and check for clearances. I believe this affects the drivers side.
Dang, I finally got my new OE style cv boot installed and I just realized my new flange bolts are too short, I bought 1" and they have to be 1-1/4",
maybe even 1-1/2" would do.
Hard to find now, NLA at Grainger and Fastenal, checking some other places.
Some debate about if a typical split-ring lockwasher does any locking due to the bolt hardness, how about using Nord-locks?
--
Burl Vibert
Kingston, Ontario
1976 GMC 26 foot, Sheridan reno, don't know original model but we call her Roxie