Should the batteries charge when plugged in

[john phillips]

My furnace and kitchen sink are next to the dry shower.
The cord plugged into the blue box goes to the silver box behind the
electrical panel. The other silver box by the vertical board is a 4x4
4-wire electrical socket fed by the generator. I do not have a transfer
switch and plug into the generator when not plugged into shore power.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fylwe5hu48chqu2/20171007_225426.jpg?dl=0
I opened the breaker box and was surprised to see the red leg was not
connected to anything. When I got the coach all these breakers were on.
I was thinking of installing 50 amp 240-volt shore power box next to my
parking pad. One of the left breakers was labeled rear AC. The rear AC unit
had been removed. I am guessing the black wire in the lower left goes to
the rear AC unit. The other item is the white wire jumping from the right
buss bar to the center buss bar one location left of the green wire. Bet if
I removed that white wire my GFI would not trip anymore.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7t9bnl6qzlgq7ta/20171007_163204.jpg?dl=0
The left breaker is the black leg input followed by the outlets, the blue
box which supplies power to the silver box behind the breaker box and the
15 amp breaker controls the front AC unit.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tulb0ebrejmjnn4/20171007_230541.jpg?dl=0
I am pulling the breaker box forward to find what is behind it.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tulb0ebrejmjnn4/20171007_230541.jpg?dl=0
Here is the label from the silver box behind the breaker box.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/oglr1mkwu49o77z/20171007_230557.jpg?dl=0
Is this a new upgrade for the famous buzz box?
Is there a problem using the dash switch to link the house and chassis
batteries together while on shore power to keep the chassis battery charged?

As I understand it GMC did not build any trans modes until 75.
I do know the serial numbers started over with 100,000 every year.
Not sure if the serial numbers for trans mode are interlaced with GMC
completed units or if they had their own set starting with 100,000 each
year.
There is only 1 unit between your's which may indicate that they were
building trans modes that day or that the trans modes had there own set of
serial numbers. We also have to take into account that this is the model
year which starts in the late summer rather than the actual build year. To
have 425 units built by November they are probably sharing a common serial
number sequence.

--

*John Phillips*

 

[d c *mac* macdonald]

The white wire SHOULD be the neutral (return) for both sides of the 240 Volt feed. The black and red SHOULD be the "HOT" 120 Volt feeds! If your coach is not wired in this manner, there's no telling what a GFCI will do but it probably won't do what it is supposed to do.

The ONAN genset feeds the same 120 Volt feed to both sides of the 240 Volt female power connector. A stock coach doesn't care if the same 120 Volts are fed to that power cable or if split 240 Volts are fed to it.

House AND engine batteries will probably both charge from the 120 Volt charger only if a combiner is installed across the isolator on the firewall.

D C "Mac" Macdonald
Amateur Radio K2GKK
Since 30 November '53
USAF and FAA, Retired
Member GMCMI & Classics
Oklahoma City, OK
"The Money Pit"
TZE166V101966
'76 ex-Palm Beach
k2gkk + hotmail dot com

________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of John Phillips
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 09:58
To: gmclist
Subject: [GMCnet] Should the batteries charge when plugged in

My furnace and kitchen sink are next to the dry shower.
The cord plugged into the blue box goes to the silver box behind the
electrical panel. The other silver box by the vertical board is a 4x4
4-wire electrical socket fed by the generator. I do not have a transfer
switch and plug into the generator when not plugged into shore power.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fylwe5hu48chqu2/20171007_225426.jpg?dl=0
[https://www.dropbox.com/temp_thumb_from_token/s/fylwe5hu48chqu2?preserve_transparency=False&size=1024x1024&size_mode=2]https://www.dropbox.com/s/fylwe5hu48chqu2/20171007_225426.jpg?dl=0

20171007_225426.jpghttps://www.dropbox.com/s/fylwe5hu48chqu2/20171007_225426.jpg?dl=0
www.dropbox.com
Shared with Dropbox

I opened the breaker box and was surprised to see the red leg was not
connected to anything. When I got the coach all these breakers were on.
I was thinking of installing 50 amp 240-volt shore power box next to my
parking pad. One of the left breakers was labeled rear AC. The rear AC unit
had been removed. I am guessing the black wire in the lower left goes to
the rear AC unit. The other item is the white wire jumping from the right
buss bar to the center buss bar one location left of the green wire. Bet if
I removed that white wire my GFI would not trip anymore.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7t9bnl6qzlgq7ta/20171007_163204.jpg?dl=0
The left breaker is the black leg input followed by the outlets, the blue
box which supplies power to the silver box behind the breaker box and the
15 amp breaker controls the front AC unit.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tulb0ebrejmjnn4/20171007_230541.jpg?dl=0
I am pulling the breaker box forward to find what is behind it.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tulb0ebrejmjnn4/20171007_230541.jpg?dl=0
Here is the label from the silver box behind the breaker box.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/oglr1mkwu49o77z/20171007_230557.jpg?dl=0
Is this a new upgrade for the famous buzz box?
Is there a problem using the dash switch to link the house and chassis
batteries together while on shore power to keep the chassis battery charged?

As I understand it GMC did not build any trans modes until 75.
I do know the serial numbers started over with 100,000 every year.
Not sure if the serial numbers for trans mode are interlaced with GMC
completed units or if they had their own set starting with 100,000 each
year.
There is only 1 unit between your's which may indicate that they were
building trans modes that day or that the trans modes had there own set of
serial numbers. We also have to take into account that this is the model
year which starts in the late summer rather than the actual build year. To
have 425 units built by November they are probably sharing a common serial
number sequence.

--

*John Phillips*

 

[Matt Colie]

> My furnace and kitchen sink are next to the dry shower.
> The cord plugged into the blue box goes to the silver box behind the electrical panel. The other silver box by the vertical board is a 4x4 4-wire
> electrical socket fed by the generator. I do not have a transfer switch and plug into the generator when not plugged into shore power.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/fylwe5hu48chqu2/20171007_225426.jpg?dl=0
> I opened the breaker box and was surprised to see the red leg was not connected to anything. When I got the coach all these breakers were on. I
> was thinking of installing 50 amp 240-volt shore power box next to my parking pad. One of the left breakers was labeled rear AC. The rear AC unit
> had been removed. I am guessing the black wire in the lower left goes to the rear AC unit. The other item is the white wire jumping from the right
> buss bar to the center buss bar one location left of the green wire. Bet if I removed that white wire my GFI would not trip anymore.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/7t9bnl6qzlgq7ta/20171007_163204.jpg?dl=0
> The left breaker is the black leg input followed by the outlets, the blue box which supplies power to the silver box behind the breaker box and
> the 15 amp breaker controls the front AC unit. https://www.dropbox.com/s/tulb0ebrejmjnn4/20171007_230541.jpg?dl=0
> I am pulling the breaker box forward to find what is behind it.
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/tulb0ebrejmjnn4/20171007_230541.jpg?dl=0
> Here is the label from the silver box behind the breaker box.
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/oglr1mkwu49o77z/20171007_230557.jpg?dl=0
> Is this a new upgrade for the famous buzz box?
> Is there a problem using the dash switch to link the house and chassis batteries together while on shore power to keep the chassis battery
> charged?
>
> As I understand it GMC did not build any trans modes until 75. I do know the serial numbers started over with 100,000 every year.
> Not sure if the serial numbers for trans mode are interlaced with GMC completed units or if they had their own set starting with 100,000 each
> year.
> There is only 1 unit between your's which may indicate that they were building trans modes that day or that the trans modes had there own set of
> serial numbers. We also have to take into account that this is the model year which starts in the late summer rather than the actual build year. To
> have 425 units built by November they are probably sharing a common serial number sequence.
>
> --
> *John Phillips*

John,

Lets start with the easy answers:
Yes, the Parallax is a newer replacement for the buzz-box, but not a whole lot better - just quieter. Still consider replacing it with a Iota or
Progressive Dymanics number. Having the converter plugged in makes it simpler to both install and replace, so that was common.
Yes, you could use the dash boost switch to parallel the backs for charging from shore power, but many newer coaches have a momentary switch there, so
lost of carry a "1$ combiner" that is a pair of alligator clips with a short wire to put on the two battery terminals of the isolator. When you do
the walk around before departure, you will see it and remove it then. Never Skip the Walk Around.

The strangeness of the panel is a result of trying to run 2 roof A/Cs without the cost and issues of a 50 amp (14-50) connection. At the time our
coaches were built, there was a big fight in the industry. It was clear that a single line 30 amp was not going to be adequate, but nobody wanted to
spring for the copper to do it right. So, there are a lot of coaches like your with two feeds. A 30 for most of the coach and a 15 (that gets called
20) for the other A/C unit and maybe something else.

Most of the internals of the panel look not to bad, but that white jumper that goes from the neutral buss on the right to the ground buss between the
two neutral busses will make every GFI you see jump open in fear. I am a little concerned that there is not a healthier jumper between the two
neutral busses. By all rights, the extra feed for the other A/C should come in as three conductors also and feed the other neutral. The grounds can
connect there.

The Big Green wire should be the ground from your shore power cable. That buss lug that it goes to should only have grounds connected. So, that
white jumper was probably a repair for something that didn't work. I suggest that you remove that and then trouble shoot was does not work correctly.

If I lost you, sorry, tell me and I will try again.

Matt

--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[john phillips]

Re replacing the Parallax converter:
I would like to know why. Does it have a bad reputation? Is it because it
is not an intelligent charge controller? I have a DC voltmeter plugged
into the lighter socket on the dash. I have not seen voltage higher than
12.6 there. If it goes over 13.3 I would be concerned.
My dash boost switch is not momentary so as long as it seems to charge from
shore power I think I will use it. I should be able to run it that way
until I park and do not plug in.
Is the combiner box really as simple as a cliplead across the boost relay?

So as I reflect on what has been said I really do not have a 240-volt panel
but rather 2 40-amp 120-volt panels with a shared ground buss between them.
I could not run a 240-volt heater or an inductive cooktop, at least until I
plug into a real 240-volt shore power. At this point with only one AC unit
installed everything is running off the right-hand side.

Good call seeing that I am running a 40-amp neutral threw that small white
wire. If I move the white wire from the ground bus and connect it to the
right-hand neutral that should give me twice the capacity.

> > My furnace and kitchen sink are next to the dry shower.
> > The cord plugged into the blue box goes to the silver box behind the
> electrical panel. The other silver box by the vertical board is a 4x4 4-wire
> > electrical socket fed by the generator. I do not have a transfer switch
> and plug into the generator when not plugged into shore power.
> >
> > https://www.dropbox.com/s/fylwe5hu48chqu2/20171007_225426.jpg?dl=0
> > I opened the breaker box and was surprised to see the red leg was not
> connected to anything. When I got the coach all these breakers were on. I
> > was thinking of installing 50 amp 240-volt shore power box next to my
> parking pad. One of the left breakers was labeled rear AC. The rear AC unit
> > had been removed. I am guessing the black wire in the lower left goes to
> the rear AC unit. The other item is the white wire jumping from the right
> > buss bar to the center buss bar one location left of the green wire.
> Bet if I removed that white wire my GFI would not trip anymore.
> >
> > https://www.dropbox.com/s/7t9bnl6qzlgq7ta/20171007_163204.jpg?dl=0
> > The left breaker is the black leg input followed by the outlets, the
> blue box which supplies power to the silver box behind the breaker box and
> > the 15 amp breaker controls the front AC unit.
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/tulb0ebrejmjnn4/20171007_230541.jpg?dl=0
> > I am pulling the breaker box forward to find what is behind it.
> > https://www.dropbox.com/s/tulb0ebrejmjnn4/20171007_230541.jpg?dl=0
> > Here is the label from the silver box behind the breaker box.
> > https://www.dropbox.com/s/oglr1mkwu49o77z/20171007_230557.jpg?dl=0
> > Is this a new upgrade for the famous buzz box?
> > Is there a problem using the dash switch to link the house and chassis
> batteries together while on shore power to keep the chassis battery
> > charged?
> >
> > As I understand it GMC did not build any trans modes until 75. I do know
> the serial numbers started over with 100,000 every year.
> > Not sure if the serial numbers for trans mode are interlaced with GMC
> completed units or if they had their own set starting with 100,000 each
> > year.
> > There is only 1 unit between your's which may indicate that they were
> building trans modes that day or that the trans modes had there own set of
> > serial numbers. We also have to take into account that this is the model
> year which starts in the late summer rather than the actual build year. To
> > have 425 units built by November they are probably sharing a common
> serial number sequence.
> >
> > --
> > *John Phillips*
>
> John,
>
> Lets start with the easy answers:
> Yes, the Parallax is a newer replacement for the buzz-box, but not a whole
> lot better - just quieter. Still consider replacing it with a Iota or
> Progressive Dymanics number. Having the converter plugged in makes it
> simpler to both install and replace, so that was common.
> Yes, you could use the dash boost switch to parallel the backs for
> charging from shore power, but many newer coaches have a momentary switch
> there, so
> lost of carry a "1$ combiner" that is a pair of alligator clips with a
> short wire to put on the two battery terminals of the isolator. When you do
> the walk around before departure, you will see it and remove it then.
> Never Skip the Walk Around.
>
> The strangeness of the panel is a result of trying to run 2 roof A/Cs
> without the cost and issues of a 50 amp (14-50) connection. At the time our
> coaches were built, there was a big fight in the industry. It was clear
> that a single line 30 amp was not going to be adequate, but nobody wanted to
> spring for the copper to do it right. So, there are a lot of coaches like
> your with two feeds. A 30 for most of the coach and a 15 (that gets called
> 20) for the other A/C unit and maybe something else.
>
> Most of the internals of the panel look not to bad, but that white jumper
> that goes from the neutral buss on the right to the ground buss between the
> two neutral busses will make every GFI you see jump open in fear. I am a
> little concerned that there is not a healthier jumper between the two
> neutral busses. By all rights, the extra feed for the other A/C should
> come in as three conductors also and feed the other neutral. The grounds
> can
> connect there.
>
> The Big Green wire should be the ground from your shore power cable. That
> buss lug that it goes to should only have grounds connected. So, that
> white jumper was probably a repair for something that didn't work. I
> suggest that you remove that and then trouble shoot was does not work
> correctly.
>
>
> If I lost you, sorry, tell me and I will try again.
>
> Matt
>
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--

*John Phillips*

 

[Jim Hupy]

There is a possible issue with leaving the boost switch on. Original
equipment boost solenoids were CONTINOUS DUTY CYCLE. If it has been
replaced with a INTERMITTENT DUTY CYCLE solenoid by an unknowing person or
cheapskate, if you leave it on continously, it can overheat with bad
consequences. ( fire). Better safe than sorry.
Jim Hupy

Re replacing the Parallax converter:
I would like to know why. Does it have a bad reputation? Is it because it
is not an intelligent charge controller? I have a DC voltmeter plugged
into the lighter socket on the dash. I have not seen voltage higher than
12.6 there. If it goes over 13.3 I would be concerned.
My dash boost switch is not momentary so as long as it seems to charge from
shore power I think I will use it. I should be able to run it that way
until I park and do not plug in.
Is the combiner box really as simple as a cliplead across the boost relay?

So as I reflect on what has been said I really do not have a 240-volt panel
but rather 2 40-amp 120-volt panels with a shared ground buss between them.
I could not run a 240-volt heater or an inductive cooktop, at least until I
plug into a real 240-volt shore power. At this point with only one AC unit
installed everything is running off the right-hand side.

Good call seeing that I am running a 40-amp neutral threw that small white
wire. If I move the white wire from the ground bus and connect it to the
right-hand neutral that should give me twice the capacity.

> > My furnace and kitchen sink are next to the dry shower.
> > The cord plugged into the blue box goes to the silver box behind the
> electrical panel. The other silver box by the vertical board is a 4x4
4-wire
> > electrical socket fed by the generator. I do not have a transfer switch
> and plug into the generator when not plugged into shore power.
> >
> > https://www.dropbox.com/s/fylwe5hu48chqu2/20171007_225426.jpg?dl=0
> > I opened the breaker box and was surprised to see the red leg was not
> connected to anything. When I got the coach all these breakers were on. I
> > was thinking of installing 50 amp 240-volt shore power box next to my
> parking pad. One of the left breakers was labeled rear AC. The rear AC
unit
> > had been removed. I am guessing the black wire in the lower left goes to
> the rear AC unit. The other item is the white wire jumping from the right
> > buss bar to the center buss bar one location left of the green wire.
> Bet if I removed that white wire my GFI would not trip anymore.
> >
> > https://www.dropbox.com/s/7t9bnl6qzlgq7ta/20171007_163204.jpg?dl=0
> > The left breaker is the black leg input followed by the outlets, the
> blue box which supplies power to the silver box behind the breaker box and
> > the 15 amp breaker controls the front AC unit.
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/tulb0ebrejmjnn4/20171007_230541.jpg?dl=0
> > I am pulling the breaker box forward to find what is behind it.
> > https://www.dropbox.com/s/tulb0ebrejmjnn4/20171007_230541.jpg?dl=0
> > Here is the label from the silver box behind the breaker box.
> > https://www.dropbox.com/s/oglr1mkwu49o77z/20171007_230557.jpg?dl=0
> > Is this a new upgrade for the famous buzz box?
> > Is there a problem using the dash switch to link the house and chassis
> batteries together while on shore power to keep the chassis battery
> > charged?
> >
> > As I understand it GMC did not build any trans modes until 75. I do know
> the serial numbers started over with 100,000 every year.
> > Not sure if the serial numbers for trans mode are interlaced with GMC
> completed units or if they had their own set starting with 100,000 each
> > year.
> > There is only 1 unit between your's which may indicate that they were
> building trans modes that day or that the trans modes had there own set of
> > serial numbers. We also have to take into account that this is the model
> year which starts in the late summer rather than the actual build year. To
> > have 425 units built by November they are probably sharing a common
> serial number sequence.
> >
> > --
> > *John Phillips*
>
> John,
>
> Lets start with the easy answers:
> Yes, the Parallax is a newer replacement for the buzz-box, but not a whole
> lot better - just quieter. Still consider replacing it with a Iota or
> Progressive Dymanics number. Having the converter plugged in makes it
> simpler to both install and replace, so that was common.
> Yes, you could use the dash boost switch to parallel the backs for
> charging from shore power, but many newer coaches have a momentary switch
> there, so
> lost of carry a "1$ combiner" that is a pair of alligator clips with a
> short wire to put on the two battery terminals of the isolator. When you
do
> the walk around before departure, you will see it and remove it then.
> Never Skip the Walk Around.
>
> The strangeness of the panel is a result of trying to run 2 roof A/Cs
> without the cost and issues of a 50 amp (14-50) connection. At the time
our
> coaches were built, there was a big fight in the industry. It was clear
> that a single line 30 amp was not going to be adequate, but nobody wanted
to
> spring for the copper to do it right. So, there are a lot of coaches like
> your with two feeds. A 30 for most of the coach and a 15 (that gets
called
> 20) for the other A/C unit and maybe something else.
>
> Most of the internals of the panel look not to bad, but that white jumper
> that goes from the neutral buss on the right to the ground buss between
the
> two neutral busses will make every GFI you see jump open in fear. I am a
> little concerned that there is not a healthier jumper between the two
> neutral busses. By all rights, the extra feed for the other A/C should
> come in as three conductors also and feed the other neutral. The grounds
> can
> connect there.
>
> The Big Green wire should be the ground from your shore power cable. That
> buss lug that it goes to should only have grounds connected. So, that
> white jumper was probably a repair for something that didn't work. I
> suggest that you remove that and then trouble shoot was does not work
> correctly.
>
>
> If I lost you, sorry, tell me and I will try again.
>
> Matt
>
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--

*John Phillips*
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[john r. lebetski]

On the converter. .... A smart unit is just that and tapers charge rate to the state of charge the battery is in, prolonging life. The BIG thing is
it is smart enough to take the batttery to the final stage of charge where it must be brought up to at least 14.2V, then taper back. Yours only gets
to the mid 13s which will sulfonate the battery to an early death. Seems counterintuitive but that is why the buzz box style ruined batteries when
left plugged in.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

 

[john phillips]

What should I get to replace it?
Is there a preferred battery monitoring system?

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 7:59 PM, John R. Lebetski
wrote:

> On the converter. .... A smart unit is just that and tapers charge rate to
> the state of charge the battery is in, prolonging life. The BIG thing is
> it is smart enough to take the batttery to the final stage of charge where
> it must be brought up to at least 14.2V, then taper back. Yours only gets
> to the mid 13s which will sulfonate the battery to an early death. Seems
> counterintuitive but that is why the buzz box style ruined batteries when
> left plugged in.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--

*John Phillips*

 

[Ken B]

I suggest that you do NOT leave he boost solenoid energized. This probably will lead to eventual failure of the solenoid coil and also puts two
batteries of different type in parallel If either one develops a shorted cell the opposite one will discharge into that short and the path is capable
of several hundred amps. Can you say explosion or fire?

The $1.00 combiner if made out of 16 ga. or even 18 ga. wire will protect against that possible problem by burning in half under the above scenario.
GM used similar wires, called fusible links, to protect the whole coach in case of an over current short. There is also a second fusible link in
series with the heater fan on a GMC.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[john phillips]

Thanks for the advice Ken.
I did replace all the batteries last in Aug. I will get a fused jumper to
switch in and out.

> I suggest that you do NOT leave he boost solenoid energized. This
> probably will lead to eventual failure of the solenoid coil and also puts
> two
> batteries of different type in parallel If either one develops a shorted
> cell the opposite one will discharge into that short and the path is capable
> of several hundred amps. Can you say explosion or fire?
>
> The $1.00 combiner if made out of 16 ga. or even 18 ga. wire will protect
> against that possible problem by burning in half under the above scenario.
> GM used similar wires, called fusible links, to protect the whole coach in
> case of an over current short. There is also a second fusible link in
> series with the heater fan on a GMC.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--

*John Phillips*

 

[Matt Colie]

> What should I get to replace it?
> Is there a preferred battery monitoring system?
>
> --
> *John Phillips*

John,

You have asked two separate questions.

I will suggest that you look for "intelligent" (they aren't intelligent, just obedient) converter. The two best known are Progressive Dynamics and
Iota. Both are three/four stage systems that have multiple and clearly defined stages that are used. They will actually make a battery bank last
longer as they don't beat it up to get it charged and then don't hassle it once it is charged. Both actually do a "Burp" phase to stir the
electrolyte.

A Battery Monitor is a very different thing, but one is highly recommended if you plan any dry camping/boondocking at all. The two I will suggest
that you look at first are the Bogart Trimetric family and the Xantrex monitors. Both are good units, but neither is a plug and play.

Of all the above, there are new products all the time, and as I am no longer in the business of repurposing racing sloops to be performance cruisers,
I do not watch the current technology that hard and there could well be some great newer products out there.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[robert mueller]

John,

I'm in China at the moment, when I get back to Houston after October 19th I'll send you photos of how I reworked the 12 VDC system
in Double Trouble by removing the Buzz Box, installing a Progressive Dynamics 60 amp unit under the bathroom sink, a combiner, three
blue sea switches, a Ragusa battery tray, anything else I can remember! ;-)

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Matt Colie
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2017 8:35 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Should the batteries charge when plugged in

> What should I get to replace it?
> Is there a preferred battery monitoring system?
>
> --
> *John Phillips*

John,

You have asked two separate questions.

I will suggest that you look for "intelligent" (they aren't intelligent, just obedient) converter. The two best known are
Progressive Dynamics and Iota. Both are three/four stage systems that have multiple and clearly defined stages that are used. They
will actually make a battery bank last longer as they don't beat it up to get it charged and then don't hassle it once it is
charged. Both actually do a "Burp" phase to stir the electrolyte.

A Battery Monitor is a very different thing, but one is highly recommended if you plan any dry camping / boondocking at all. The
two I will suggest that you look at first are the Bogart Trimetric family and the Xantrex monitors. Both are good units, but
neither is a plug and play.

Of all the above, there are new products all the time, and as I am no longer in the business of repurposing racing sloops to be
performance cruisers, I do not watch the current technology that hard and there could well be some great newer products out there.

Matt