Shell Rotella T4 VOA

corey

New member
Jan 7, 2010
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When I sent my used oil in for an analysis (bad news that one was), I figured I'd also get a virgin oil analysis done. This was on Shell Rotella T4
15w40, purchased at Wally World in late 2020, with a manufacture date of Oct 22 2020 printed on the bottle. I know there were rumors they had reduced
the ZDDP in T4. I know the myth has been dispelled elsewhere on the web, but thought it wouldn't hurt to check back in and help the community a little
bit. Looks to me like it has sufficient zinc and phos, but I am far from an expert on these things!!

Enjoy,

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7341/medium/VOA_Redacted.JPG
--
Corey P /

Hilliard, OH /
1974 Glacier 26' /
3.70 FD /
ION Wheels
 
Nice to get that confirmation, Thank you for sharing. I get my oil in a 55-gallon barrel at a time. And have it blended to my own specs. It's close to the Rotella blend.
Bob Dunahugh
78 Royale since 2003.

________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Corey via Gmclist
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2021 8:15 PM
To: gmclist
Cc: Corey
Subject: [GMCnet] Shell Rotella T4 VOA

When I sent my used oil in for an analysis (bad news that one was), I figured I'd also get a virgin oil analysis done. This was on Shell Rotella T4
15w40, purchased at Wally World in late 2020, with a manufacture date of Oct 22 2020 printed on the bottle. I know there were rumors they had reduced
the ZDDP in T4. I know the myth has been dispelled elsewhere on the web, but thought it wouldn't hurt to check back in and help the community a little
bit. Looks to me like it has sufficient zinc and phos, but I am far from an expert on these things!!

Enjoy,

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7341/medium/VOA_Redacted.JPG
--
Corey P /

Hilliard, OH /
1974 Glacier 26' /
3.70 FD /
ION Wheels

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I think it is important to note, just because in the old days ZDDP was needed in oils to assist wear characteristics, doesn’t mean that it is needed
in todays oils. Oils have improved immensely over the years. Todays knowledge of chemistry and engineering have created oil blends that give us oils
that far exceed the wear characteristics of yesterday’s blends. Todays blends have chemical replacement elements that duplicate the elements of
ZDDP, so there may be only traces or no ZDDP in the oil, yet have extremely high wear characteristics. These oils have been formulated to assist
todays engines in meeting EPA standards. Since most of us are not experts in the wear characteristics of oil, we act on what we know from our past
knowledge and experiences. The past is behind us and while relevant, we need to look at present engineering going into the future. I’ve done as much
as my pea brain will tolerate in researching the best oil for my Cad 500. So far the best I have found is a blog by a guy that calls himself 540Rat.
He has taken the time using engineering techniques to test over 240 different oil blends, and ranked them by their ability to resist wear.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

This is a tough read filled with testing, engineering data, a lot of self praise, and a lot of information that we don’t need, but is the best I
have found to help me in my decisions relative to the oils that I am using in my vehicles. While it would be best to read most of the beginning info,
for the meat of the blog, grab the scroll button and scroll about 1/10 of the way down to “WEAR PROTECTION RANKING LIST”. This lists oil in their
ability to resist wear by measuring in psi their ability to keep metals from making contact. It should be noted that while he has tested an number of
them ranked very high on this list that have an aftermarket oil additive, he does NOT endorse the use of oil additives claiming that you really
don’t know what you are doing to the carefully engineered chemical blend when you pour in these additives. So he claims it is best to choose an oil
that ranks high on the list straight out of the bottle.

The Wear Protection reference categories are:
* Over 120,000 psi = FANTASTIC wear protection
* 105,000 to 120,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection
* 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection
* 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection
* 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODERATE wear protection
* 50,000 to 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE LOW wear protection
* Below 50,000 psi = CAUTION – EXTREMELY LOW wear protection
The HIGHER the psi value, the BETTER the Wear Protection.

I personally use # 5 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, dexos 1 – Gen 2, API SN “Plus”, synthetic (green bottle) = 133,125 psi, in my
automobiles and #8 0W40 Mobil 1 “FS” European Car Formula, ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, API SN, synthetic = 127,221 psi., in my motorhome.
Yes, the Amsoil products right out of the bottle have tested higher on this list, but the cost/benefit ain’t worth it for me.

If you want to see where the oil you have been using ranks, do a command F or Control F, type in the brand of oil, and hit CR to advance through the
article until you find it. Some of the oils that have been the staple of the GMC community for years are surprisingly low on the wear protection
list.

Sooooo….judge for yourself. Choose wisely by making informed choices.
JMHO
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
I think it is important to note, just because in the old days ZDDP was
needed in oils to assist wear characteristics, doesn't mean that it is
needed

in today's oils. Oils have improved immensely over the years. Today's
knowledge of chemistry and engineering have created oil blends that give us
oils

that far exceed the wear characteristics of yesterday's blends. Today's
blends have chemical replacement elements that duplicate the elements of
ZDDP, so there may be only traces or no ZDDP in the oil, yet have extremely
high wear characteristics..



WEAR PROTECTION RANKING . lists oil in their ability to resist wear by
measuring in psi their ability to keep metals from making contact. .best
to choose an oil that ranks high on the list straight out of the bottle.



The Wear Protection reference categories are:

* Over 120,000 psi = FANTASTIC wear protection

* 105,000 to 120,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection

* 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection

* 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection

* 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODERATE wear protection

* 50,000 to 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE LOW wear protection

* Below 50,000 psi = CAUTION ? EXTREMELY LOW wear protection

The HIGHER the psi value, the BETTER the Wear Protection.





Some of the oils that have been the staple of the GMC community for years
are surprisingly low on the wear protection

list.



Sooooo?.judge for yourself. Choose wisely by making informed choices.

JMHO

--

Larry

78 Royale w/500 Caddy

Menomonie, WI.
 
Thanks for the link. I read dang near all of it! Please tell me why you chose the 0w-40 for your motorhome rather than the 5w-30? I was thinking I
would go with the Quaker 5w-30 in my 93,000 mile 403 and hope the synthetic doesn't leak or burn. If it does I'll chose a conventional from the list.
Thanks.
 
> Thanks for the link. I read dang near all of it! Please tell me why you chose the 0w-40 for your motorhome rather than the 5w-30? I was
> thinking I would go with the Quaker 5w-30 in my 93,000 mile 403 and hope the synthetic doesn't leak or burn. If it does I'll chose a conventional
> from the list. Thanks.

JR,
The one thing I have learned is that with today’s oils, thicker is not better. As 540rat has said, it is best to use as thin of an oil as possible,
high on the “Wear Protection”, that give you acceptable hot oil pressure. The thinner it is, the more oil you have going to bearings, reducing
wear. The thinner it is the more oil is carrying heat away from moving parts. The thinner it is at cold temps, the quicker oil gets to the bearing
surfaces reducing wear. The thinner it is at cold temps, the more oil you have actually going to those cold surfaces quicker, reducing wear. I use
the 0W40 mainly because the “0” flows for my Wisconsin cold winter starts, (next week temps predicted at -15*) while giving me the “40” for
acceptable oil pressure on hot running. On cold starts, I have oil pressure immediately with the "0", and 45-48lbs hot running down the road, and
30lbs and a hot idle. I think it is Matt C. that once said, the only down side is the “0” also has a run-off factor when sitting for long
periods, meaning because of the low viscosity, it runs off easier than the 5w to 15w weights when sitting for long periods. If my coach has been
sitting for more than a couple of months, I get by that by pulling the ignition wire and turning the engine over until I see the needle move on the
oil pressure gauge….then hook up the wire and start. A minor inconvenience but IMO worth the effort. I’m gonna have to change oil on our next run
to Florida which will be mid March after we get our Covid shots. Think I’m gonna try the 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability and see what kind of
hot oil pressure it gives me. If acceptable, I may switch to that.

As a side note, one of the other things I noted is that many of the lowest rated oils in terms of wear, were the “Break-in” oils. Most of them
rated in the Moderate to Undesirable Low category. Supposedly formulated to allow wear to take place for parts to wear-in to each other. My question
is…why would you want wear to take place in a new engine? The cylinder walls…yes…but bearings? And, how does an oil decide what to
wear-in….it can’t, so everything wears a little putting a lot of debris into the oil right away. If you look through a microscope at a final hone
on a cylinder wall, you will see peaks and valleys. In the break-in process, the rings knock off the peaks. There isn’t an oil out there that can
prevent that. IMO, break-in takes place in the first one thousand miles in the first couple of oil changes. One at about 50 miles and the next at 1000
miles. This last engine I built, I broke-in with a 10w40 synthetic blend. Engine consumes about a quart in 3K miles, and some of that is leakage out
the front main seal. Next engine I build will get broken-in with the oil I plan to use for the rest of it’s life…a 5W30 synthetic.

I think it was Matt that also said that it is hard to find a "bad" oil out there, so to my way of thinking, if you have engineering and scientific
testing that shows certain oils are better than others in reducing wear, why not go with it.

Just my relatively informed, off the cuff, back yard mechanic, gut level, eyeball it up and guestimate, (based on some actual research)
opinion...that's all...

--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.