Setting on the skids

G

Greg C.

Active member
Oct 11, 2019
256
23
28
Okay, well, I've done it now. I've had my new coach home for three weeks now. I've replaced the driver's side manifold and gasket, (major shout out to
Jim Hupy for the cordless impact suggestion, all bolts out with no breakage! And the 1/8" hole drilled above the middle bolt! ) and am now replacing
the old toilet and cleaning up.

Today I decided to try out the auto level system and see how it worked.

The PO told me that the auto leveling system works just fine, but that the compressor would not shut off. So either he or a PO before him had
installed shut off valves at the quad bags. He said that he would run the compressor and get the coach where he wanted it, and then shut off the air
valves to hold it.

Well, I started up the coach and put the switch in Travel, and went outside and opened the shut off valves. Went back inside with a spray bottle of
soapy water and identified three leaks, two at the solenoids and one at the fitting exiting the head of the factory compressor. Went back outside and
found a leak at the driver's side auto leveling valve.

I noticed the coach was getting lower, and before long it was sitting on the skid bars that some PO had installed to protect the dump valve.

I tried Left Raise, Right Raise, Travel, etc, but the coach won't lift even though the compressor is running. There is a schrader valve on the bottom
of the little air tank next to the compressor. I have a small 110v portable compressor that maxes out around 90 psi, so I hooked that to the schrader
valve on the tank, no joy.

So, my coach is in the driveway, currently unmoveable, which stinks because I just went today and got new tags for it so I could drive it.

Can anyone offer some sage advice on how to get it back up to travel height?

Thank you.
--
Greg Crawford
Knoxville, TN

1977 Royale, rear bath
Quad bags, brand unknown
 
are you sure you have the shut off valves in the correct position? The lever should be parallel to the air line, not perpendicular...
you can bypass the system all together by using, or installing a schrader valve directly on the air bag. I would think a quadbag system would have them. you use your external compressor and inflate the bag like a tire, I believe the shut off valve should be OFF
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Greg Crawford via Gmclist
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2020 2:45 PM
To: gmclist
Cc: Greg Crawford
Subject: [GMCnet] Setting on the skids

Okay, well, I've done it now. I've had my new coach home for three weeks now. I've replaced the driver's side manifold and gasket, (major shout out to
Jim Hupy for the cordless impact suggestion, all bolts out with no breakage! And the 1/8" hole drilled above the middle bolt! ) and am now replacing
the old toilet and cleaning up.

Today I decided to try out the auto level system and see how it worked.

The PO told me that the auto leveling system works just fine, but that the compressor would not shut off. So either he or a PO before him had
installed shut off valves at the quad bags. He said that he would run the compressor and get the coach where he wanted it, and then shut off the air
valves to hold it.

Well, I started up the coach and put the switch in Travel, and went outside and opened the shut off valves. Went back inside with a spray bottle of
soapy water and identified three leaks, two at the solenoids and one at the fitting exiting the head of the factory compressor. Went back outside and
found a leak at the driver's side auto leveling valve.

I noticed the coach was getting lower, and before long it was sitting on the skid bars that some PO had installed to protect the dump valve.

I tried Left Raise, Right Raise, Travel, etc, but the coach won't lift even though the compressor is running. There is a schrader valve on the bottom
of the little air tank next to the compressor. I have a small 110v portable compressor that maxes out around 90 psi, so I hooked that to the schrader
valve on the tank, no joy.

So, my coach is in the driveway, currently unmoveable, which stinks because I just went today and got new tags for it so I could drive it.

Can anyone offer some sage advice on how to get it back up to travel height?

Thank you.
--
Greg Crawford
Knoxville, TN

1977 Royale, rear bath
Quad bags, brand unknown

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GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Keith: Yes, the shut off valves are open. They were closed before I started my experimenting.

I've looked in both wheel wells, and no schrader valve is evident. Yes, inflating the quad bags via their own schrader valve would be simple and
quick.

But I would like to attempt to raise the coach through the leveling system, if it will, to confirm proper operation.

I will Google air brake lines and fittings and see if I can get those leaks fixed.

It may be that the air compressor is just worn out and can't do its thing. In reading the service manual a few minutes ago, it should run anytime the
air pressure in the tank is below 100 psi and cut off once the pressure reaches 120 psi. Obviously, that is not happening.

But in my simple mind applying air pressure to the tank should enable the system to operate and the coach to raise, but I may not be doing it right.

Thank you for the reply.
--
Greg Crawford
Knoxville, TN

1977 Royale, rear bath
Quad bags, brand unknown
 
You need some serious sorting out of your air ride system.
Temporary fix would be to install some Schrader valves and use a stand
alone air compressor to inflate your bags. That will get you mobile, at
least.
But, your system is either leaking like a sieve, faster than your
ailing on board compressor can keep up with, or you have other issues with
your system.
What would be helpful, is for us to know exactly which system you
have. There at least 3 different ones used.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Fri, Jul 24, 2020, 1:47 PM Greg Crawford via Gmclist <

> Keith: Yes, the shut off valves are open. They were closed before I
> started my experimenting.
>
> I've looked in both wheel wells, and no schrader valve is evident. Yes,
> inflating the quad bags via their own schrader valve would be simple and
> quick.
>
> But I would like to attempt to raise the coach through the leveling
> system, if it will, to confirm proper operation.
>
> I will Google air brake lines and fittings and see if I can get those
> leaks fixed.
>
> It may be that the air compressor is just worn out and can't do its thing.
> In reading the service manual a few minutes ago, it should run anytime the
> air pressure in the tank is below 100 psi and cut off once the pressure
> reaches 120 psi. Obviously, that is not happening.
>
> But in my simple mind applying air pressure to the tank should enable the
> system to operate and the coach to raise, but I may not be doing it right.
>
> Thank you for the reply.
> --
> Greg Crawford
> Knoxville, TN
>
> 1977 Royale, rear bath
> Quad bags, brand unknown
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Any time you have a continuously running compressor, you have either a bad / worn out compressor or an air leak somewhere. Those compressors do not
put out much air so a small leak anywhere can cause this to happen.

Go to Ace hardware and buy a couple of schrader valves. They are $2.00 to $3.00 each. On an OEM system they are 1/4". They also sell the smaller
1/8" ones too at Ace. They are usually around the brass fittings. I keep a pair of those just in case I ever need to air up a bag in an emergency.
I have never needed them, but they are great to keep just in case. Unscrew the line or shutoff valve going to the bag and screw the schrader in
place of the line or shutoff valve. Then air up the bags with whatever air source you have that is good good to around 90 PSI. Now you can drive the
coach and fix the air leaks at your leisure.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Greg,

There are three very different OE air suspension systems. By your writing, I am guessing that you have an Electrolevel(1) system. That is the one
with the switches at the front and all the works in the floor level cabinet by the left wheel well.

It will make it easier for us to provide better advice and assistance if you fill in a sigfile. Go to then scroll to
and fill that in with your name (so we know who we are helping), a short about the coach including major mods like which quad bag
airspring you have (becuase over the time that ~13000 coaches were made, there were changes) and a geographic reference so someone might know he is in
striking range.

If the compressor is the Dana/Haddly with two cylinders and a belt, there is a real good chance that it is shot and needs at least a rebuild. For
just a little more money, you can get a much better pump. Those a Viair units and there are several to chose from.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Thanks everyone, for the responses. My system (I think) is the Electro Level 1. It has three rocker switches at the driver's left elbow. It has one
compressor with "GMC" emblazoned on the blue cover along with a tiny air tank and pot full of solenoids.

This morning I installed a quick connect fitting into the bottom of the air tank, disconnected the on board compressor, and tested all the switches. I
got a solenoid click in every position, so I think they are working. I connected a small 110 volt compressor to it, switched Right Side to Raise, and
turned it on. This compressor normally will build to 90 PSI, but it could not get over 60. (Leaks) By jacking under the bogies, I got enough air into
the bags to get it off the ground.

I have a major leak at a tee fitting on the left side wheel well, three various leaks at the solenoids and compressor head fitting, and a leak on
this:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7314/medium/Leaking_valve.jpg

[url]"]http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7314/medium/Leaking_valve.jpg][url]

Is it fixable, or do I need a new one?

Now that I can get into the wheel wells, I think I will put a schrader valve in there somewhere to avoid all this until I can get the air level system
sorted.

Where do you guys recommend for brake line fittings?

Thank you.

--
Greg Crawford
Knoxville, TN

1977 Royale, rear bath
Quad bags, brand unknown
 
Greg,

The OE line fittings are plastic and have all aged out. The good set up (not the cheapest) is to use DOT standard air fittings. Any truck stuff
place will have these. They are a compression fitting but with an center tube to keep the plastic from being over compressed.

If you carefully cut the bands off the old fittings and get the compression ring off the remaining line, sometimes you can put the DOT fitting on
without loosing any of the original line length.

While you are at it, you should look things over. You may want a bunch of other replacement fittings.

We have all been thought this a some point.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Greg,

One additional note: If you put Teflon tape on the replacement threaded
fittings, be VERY careful to start the tape wrap a thread or two back from
the end of the fitting. Teflon particles lodged in the solenoid valves can
create hard-to-find leaks. I prefer liquid Teflon "dope" to tape for that
reason.

Ken H.

On Sat, Jul 25, 2020 at 12:09 PM Matt Colie via Gmclist <

> Greg,
>
> The OE line fittings are plastic and have all aged out. The good set up
> (not the cheapest) is to use DOT standard air fittings. Any truck stuff
> place will have these. They are a compression fitting but with an center
> tube to keep the plastic from being over compressed.
>
> If you carefully cut the bands off the old fittings and get the
> compression ring off the remaining line, sometimes you can put the DOT
> fitting on
> without loosing any of the original line length.
>
> While you are at it, you should look things over. You may want a bunch of
> other replacement fittings.
>
> We have all been thought this a some point.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I would replace the air lines, Ive seen them get brittle, right Jon Roach?
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Ken Henderson via Gmclist
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2020 11:21 AM
To: GMC Mail List
Cc: Ken Henderson
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Setting on the skids

Greg,

One additional note: If you put Teflon tape on the replacement threaded
fittings, be VERY careful to start the tape wrap a thread or two back from
the end of the fitting. Teflon particles lodged in the solenoid valves can
create hard-to-find leaks. I prefer liquid Teflon "dope" to tape for that
reason.

Ken H.

On Sat, Jul 25, 2020 at 12:09 PM Matt Colie via Gmclist <

> Greg,
>
> The OE line fittings are plastic and have all aged out. The good set up
> (not the cheapest) is to use DOT standard air fittings. Any truck stuff
> place will have these. They are a compression fitting but with an center
> tube to keep the plastic from being over compressed.
>
> If you carefully cut the bands off the old fittings and get the
> compression ring off the remaining line, sometimes you can put the DOT
> fitting on
> without loosing any of the original line length.
>
> While you are at it, you should look things over. You may want a bunch of
> other replacement fittings.
>
> We have all been thought this a some point.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
That plastic line is cheap. Replace it all. Invest a few bucks in a cutter
made for that tubing, replace any fittings that don't have a center tube
with ones that do. Do NOT USE Teflon sealing tape on any fitting. Use pipe
joint compound containing teflon. Be fastidious when working with the
tubing, and make only gradual bends. Where the tubing enters the fittings,
keep the approach as straight-in as you can. Keep dirt out of the tubing.
Just a tiny bit of crap in the tubes will affect the valve function. Trust
me on this. These are all hard earned lessons by me.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Sat, Jul 25, 2020, 9:39 AM Keith V via Gmclist
wrote:

> I would replace the air lines, Ive seen them get brittle, right Jon Roach?
> ________________________________
> From: Gmclist on behalf of Ken
> Henderson via Gmclist
> Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2020 11:21 AM
> To: GMC Mail List
> Cc: Ken Henderson
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Setting on the skids
>
> Greg,
>
> One additional note: If you put Teflon tape on the replacement threaded
> fittings, be VERY careful to start the tape wrap a thread or two back from
> the end of the fitting. Teflon particles lodged in the solenoid valves can
> create hard-to-find leaks. I prefer liquid Teflon "dope" to tape for that
> reason.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 25, 2020 at 12:09 PM Matt Colie via Gmclist <

>
> > Greg,
> >
> > The OE line fittings are plastic and have all aged out. The good set up
> > (not the cheapest) is to use DOT standard air fittings. Any truck stuff
> > place will have these. They are a compression fitting but with an center
> > tube to keep the plastic from being over compressed.
> >
> > If you carefully cut the bands off the old fittings and get the
> > compression ring off the remaining line, sometimes you can put the DOT
> > fitting on
> > without loosing any of the original line length.
> >
> > While you are at it, you should look things over. You may want a bunch
> of
> > other replacement fittings.
> >
> > We have all been thought this a some point.
> >
> > Matt
> > --
> > Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> > Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> > OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> > SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Thanks everyone for the advice.

I know a lot of people just use shut offs on the bags and forego the leveling system, but I want it to work as designed.

I will gather up the fittings and hose and start replacing everything. Then, once it holds air, I'll make a judgement call on whether to replace the
compressor or not.

Thanks again.
--
Greg Crawford
Knoxville, TN

1977 Royale, rear bath
Quad bags, brand unknown
 
When I replaced mine about 15 years ago, I just cut off all of the old plastic ones and bought the brass replacements at my local independent auto
parts store. The local NAPA also had them at double the price.

I did install a few 90 degree ones to keep from having to bend a few hoses as much as they were originally. It really was a simple 1 or 2 hour job.
Mine has been leak free ever since then. My coach bags are inflated all winter while parked. They were around $2.00 each at the time. Probably $3.00
now. It is easier to get them locally so you can go back and get or exchange them as needed.

They are used on lots of air things like air shocks, farm equipment etc.


--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
While reading this post it came to me that someone out there might know
this setup. It is EL-2 system on a 78 transmode I have looked at all the
manuals and it look like I have two different compressors from two
different coaches. I will try to insert pic here but if it don't work they
are in my album under Thunderwagon.
Any help would be great
Thank-You and have a great day
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/thunder-wagon/p66115-20190324-145221.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/thunder-wagon/p66114-20190324-145207.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/thunder-wagon/p66113-20190324-145159.html

On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 12:45 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

> When I replaced mine about 15 years ago, I just cut off all of the old
> plastic ones and bought the brass replacements at my local independent auto
> parts store. The local NAPA also had them at double the price.
>
> I did install a few 90 degree ones to keep from having to bend a few hoses
> as much as they were originally. It really was a simple 1 or 2 hour job.
> Mine has been leak free ever since then. My coach bags are inflated all
> winter while parked. They were around $2.00 each at the time. Probably
> $3.00
> now. It is easier to get them locally so you can go back and get or
> exchange them as needed.
>
> They are used on lots of air things like air shocks, farm equipment etc.
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Yup! To answer the only question that I saw in your request. You do indeed
have compressors from two different systems. Was there another question in
there that I missed?
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Sun, Jul 26, 2020, 7:35 AM GENE KNUEPPEL via Gmclist <

> While reading this post it came to me that someone out there might know
> this setup. It is EL-2 system on a 78 transmode I have looked at all the
> manuals and it look like I have two different compressors from two
> different coaches. I will try to insert pic here but if it don't work they
> are in my album under Thunderwagon.
> Any help would be great
> Thank-You and have a great day
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/thunder-wagon/p66115-20190324-145221.html
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/thunder-wagon/p66114-20190324-145207.html
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/thunder-wagon/p66113-20190324-145159.html
>
> On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 12:45 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

>
> > When I replaced mine about 15 years ago, I just cut off all of the old
> > plastic ones and bought the brass replacements at my local independent
> auto
> > parts store. The local NAPA also had them at double the price.
> >
> > I did install a few 90 degree ones to keep from having to bend a few
> hoses
> > as much as they were originally. It really was a simple 1 or 2 hour job.
> > Mine has been leak free ever since then. My coach bags are inflated all
> > winter while parked. They were around $2.00 each at the time. Probably
> > $3.00
> > now. It is easier to get them locally so you can go back and get or
> > exchange them as needed.
> >
> > They are used on lots of air things like air shocks, farm equipment etc.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Ken Burton - N9KB
> > 76 Palm Beach
> > Hebron, Indiana
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
No questions at the moment. The person I bought the coach from knows
nothing about it. I just know that it has the electronic level sensors and
I want to change them over to mechanical levelers and looking to change to
vair with some different controls. I use to drive truck and am going to to
something similar

On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 10:36 AM James Hupy via Gmclist <

> Yup! To answer the only question that I saw in your request. You do indeed
> have compressors from two different systems. Was there another question in
> there that I missed?
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
> On Sun, Jul 26, 2020, 7:35 AM GENE KNUEPPEL via Gmclist <

>
> > While reading this post it came to me that someone out there might know
> > this setup. It is EL-2 system on a 78 transmode I have looked at all the
> > manuals and it look like I have two different compressors from two
> > different coaches. I will try to insert pic here but if it don't work
> they
> > are in my album under Thunderwagon.
> > Any help would be great
> > Thank-You and have a great day
> >
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/thunder-wagon/p66115-20190324-145221.html
> >
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/thunder-wagon/p66114-20190324-145207.html
> >
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/thunder-wagon/p66113-20190324-145159.html
> >
> > On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 12:45 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

> >
> > > When I replaced mine about 15 years ago, I just cut off all of the old
> > > plastic ones and bought the brass replacements at my local independent
> > auto
> > > parts store. The local NAPA also had them at double the price.
> > >
> > > I did install a few 90 degree ones to keep from having to bend a few
> > hoses
> > > as much as they were originally. It really was a simple 1 or 2 hour
> job.
> > > Mine has been leak free ever since then. My coach bags are inflated
> all
> > > winter while parked. They were around $2.00 each at the time. Probably
> > > $3.00
> > > now. It is easier to get them locally so you can go back and get or
> > > exchange them as needed.
> > >
> > > They are used on lots of air things like air shocks, farm equipment
> etc.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ken Burton - N9KB
> > > 76 Palm Beach
> > > Hebron, Indiana
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Hi Gene, would you be interested in selling the old pieces to me as spares for my 78 Transmode?

>
> While reading this post it came to me that someone out there might know
> this setup. It is EL-2 system on a 78 transmode I have looked at all the
> manuals and it look like I have two different compressors from two
> different coaches. I will try to insert pic here but if it don't work they
> are in my album under Thunderwagon.
> Any help would be great
> Thank-You and have a great day
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/thunder-wagon/p66115-20190324-145221.html
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/thunder-wagon/p66114-20190324-145207.html
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/thunder-wagon/p66113-20190324-145159.html
>
>> On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 12:45 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

>>
>> When I replaced mine about 15 years ago, I just cut off all of the old
>> plastic ones and bought the brass replacements at my local independent auto
>> parts store. The local NAPA also had them at double the price.
>>
>> I did install a few 90 degree ones to keep from having to bend a few hoses
>> as much as they were originally. It really was a simple 1 or 2 hour job.
>> Mine has been leak free ever since then. My coach bags are inflated all
>> winter while parked. They were around $2.00 each at the time. Probably
>> $3.00
>> now. It is easier to get them locally so you can go back and get or
>> exchange them as needed.
>>
>> They are used on lots of air things like air shocks, farm equipment etc.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Ken Burton - N9KB
>> 76 Palm Beach
>> Hebron, Indiana
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Update as of today. I went to a local hose shop and bought new air brake fittings. Replaced most of the fittings around the compressor, including the
one in the compressor head that was leaking. Installed a Schrader valve between the shut off valve and the bags. I need to replace two more fittings
at the solenoids, but they are going to be difficult, and since they weren't currently leaking, I left them for another day.

I had the coach jacked up and blocked to a little below ride height on the left side, that height being 8-7/16" under the frame at the check holes. I
got this dimension here on the forum.

Then I set the Left side to Raise and started checking everything with a soapy solution in a spray bottle. No apparent leaks. In a few minutes, the
left side came off the blocks, and at 8-7/16" under the frame, that equates to 42" at the top of the beltline trim.

I then set the Right side to Raise. It took a long time, probably close to 10 minutes for the compressor to pick the coach up off the blocks on that
side. That side was jacked up higher, so the top of the beltline trim was right at 43" when the blocks could be removed. This is about an inch over
ride height spec.

How long should it take the compressor to raise the coach this high? I'm afraid my compressor may be pretty tired, and I want to be able to raise in
a reasonable amount of time in order not to drag at some campsites.

Another question. My middle switch, the HOLD AUTO TRAVEL switch, only has two positions. Is it supposed to have three? It won't stay in the AUTO
position.

--
Greg Crawford
Knoxville, TN

1977 Royale, rear bath
Quad bags, brand unknown
 
Why are you checking at the top of the belt line?
There is no spec for that. It can vary depending on the compression of your frame pads. The hold auto switch only has the two positions
If it won’t stay in one you should take the switch apart and clean it. Do it indoors over a towel on a table to catch the parts in case they fly out. After cleaning it put a small dab of grease under the rocker.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick CO

>
> Update as of today. I went to a local hose shop and bought new air brake fittings. Replaced most of the fittings around the compressor, including the
> one in the compressor head that was leaking. Installed a Schrader valve between the shut off valve and the bags. I need to replace two more fittings
> at the solenoids, but they are going to be difficult, and since they weren't currently leaking, I left them for another day.
>
> I had the coach jacked up and blocked to a little below ride height on the left side, that height being 8-7/16" under the frame at the check holes. I
> got this dimension here on the forum.
>
> Then I set the Left side to Raise and started checking everything with a soapy solution in a spray bottle. No apparent leaks. In a few minutes, the
> left side came off the blocks, and at 8-7/16" under the frame, that equates to 42" at the top of the beltline trim.
>
> I then set the Right side to Raise. It took a long time, probably close to 10 minutes for the compressor to pick the coach up off the blocks on that
> side. That side was jacked up higher, so the top of the beltline trim was right at 43" when the blocks could be removed. This is about an inch over
> ride height spec.
>
> How long should it take the compressor to raise the coach this high? I'm afraid my compressor may be pretty tired, and I want to be able to raise in
> a reasonable amount of time in order not to drag at some campsites.
>
> Another question. My middle switch, the HOLD AUTO TRAVEL switch, only has two positions. Is it supposed to have three? It won't stay in the AUTO
> position.
>
>
>
> --
> Greg Crawford
> Knoxville, TN
>
> 1977 Royale, rear bath
> Quad bags, brand unknown
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
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