sealing chipmunk air leaks

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bill shourt

New member
Oct 2, 2005
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Getting ready to seal air leaks into front cabin above front wheels and sides of firewall. I have some latex based insulating foam sealant that is
minimally expanding made by DAP. In reading some old posts some have used expanding urethane foam insulation. What have others used and recommend.
I always thought that I would de-chipmunkize the sides first before resealing but I think that was a pipe dream and now I just need to get er done.
--
Bill and Michele Shourt
78 Kingsley, origional
 
Chipmunk cheeks are caused by the downward pressure from the top of the
coach, combined with the delamination of the beltline. It becomes most
evident when looking straight down the side of the coach from front to
rear. How do you fix it? Best way is to remove the beltline covering,
uncover the interior, remove the front seats and re-inforce the ribs behind
the beltline. Then place lateral pressure against the beltline from the
exterior of the coach until it flattens against the ribs, then use
adhesives and mechanical fasteners to the reinforcements. Allow sufficient
cure time for the adhesives, then remove the mechanical pressure against
the exterior of the coach.
Easy way? Fill the gaps with expanding foam, and don't worry about the
pooch in cheeks.
Jim Hupy

Getting ready to seal air leaks into front cabin above front wheels and
sides of firewall. I have some latex based insulating foam sealant that is
minimally expanding made by DAP. In reading some old posts some have used
expanding urethane foam insulation. What have others used and recommend.
I always thought that I would de-chipmunkize the sides first before
resealing but I think that was a pipe dream and now I just need to get er
done.
--
Bill and Michele Shourt
78 Kingsley, origional

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I have found that the foam ca break down after time, so we coat that with
some RTV to cut down on oxidation/ deterioration.

> Chipmunk cheeks are caused by the downward pressure from the top of the
> coach, combined with the delamination of the beltline. It becomes most
> evident when looking straight down the side of the coach from front to
> rear. How do you fix it? Best way is to remove the beltline covering,
> uncover the interior, remove the front seats and re-inforce the ribs behind
> the beltline. Then place lateral pressure against the beltline from the
> exterior of the coach until it flattens against the ribs, then use
> adhesives and mechanical fasteners to the reinforcements. Allow sufficient
> cure time for the adhesives, then remove the mechanical pressure against
> the exterior of the coach.
> Easy way? Fill the gaps with expanding foam, and don't worry about the
> pooch in cheeks.
> Jim Hupy
>

>
> Getting ready to seal air leaks into front cabin above front wheels and
> sides of firewall. I have some latex based insulating foam sealant that is
> minimally expanding made by DAP. In reading some old posts some have used
> expanding urethane foam insulation. What have others used and recommend.
> I always thought that I would de-chipmunkize the sides first before
> resealing but I think that was a pipe dream and now I just need to get er
> done.
> --
> Bill and Michele Shourt
> 78 Kingsley, origional
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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> GMCnet mailing list
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>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
I used "Through the Roof" quart can of clear flashing sealant. Applied with 1" paint brush which I then discarded.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
You can also use the "Through the Roof" sealant as a grab surface before filling the space with the crack-filling foam(if the space is large enough
that the sealant will just drip through).

Even after cleaning the body panel with lacquer thinner on a rag-covered screwdriver, when I shot the crack-foam in there it did not take to the body
material like I thought it would, and had to be manipulated into proper shape and brushed onto the body at the edges of the foam.
--
Terry Kelpien

ASE Master Technician

73 Glacier 260

Smithfield, Va.
 
We found we got really good results using free samples of a stretchy
plastic glove. Purchased ones will probably work, too, just a little more
expensive.
Dip one or two fingers in the can, and apply the through the roof to the
desired area. Expreriment with various configurations of the hand and
fingers to get the desired shape and thickness of coverage.
That was after we ran out of foam paint brushes. The fingers worked
better. Don't discard the glove until the job is finished, or it doesn't
work well anymore.

Ron & Linda Clark
North Plains, ORYGUN
78 Eleganza II

On Wed, 09 Aug 2017 15:17:17 -0600 John R. Lebetski

> I used "Through the Roof" quart can of clear flashing sealant.
> Applied with 1" paint brush which I then discarded.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II

Ron & Linda Clark
North Plains, ORYGUN
78 Eleganza II
 
3M 08115,used it on both sides of mine, later I used a sledge hammer to straighten out the alu frame next to the place that was glued, no problem at
all, a very strong product
--
1973 23' # 1848 Sky Blue Glacier called Baby Blue and a 1973 26'-3 # 1460 Parrot green Seqouia Known as the Big Green,
And sold my 1973 26'-2 # 581 White Canyon lands under the name Dobbelt trøbbel
in Norway
 
Read here
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/skin.html

> 3M 08115,used it on both sides of mine, later I used a sledge hammer to
> straighten out the alu frame next to the place that was glued, no problem at
> all, a very strong product
> --
> 1973 23' # 1848 Sky Blue Glacier called Baby Blue and a 1973 26'-3 # 1460
> Parrot green Seqouia Known as the Big Green,
> And sold my 1973 26'-2 # 581 White Canyon lands under the name Dobbelt
> trøbbel
> in Norway
>
>
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> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
 
Actually you just need to remove the inner side panel, then clean the gap and sand it with 80 grit or so sand paper. park next to a wall or anything
that will be solid, use a small amount of 3M 08115 in the gap and set pressure to the outside of the panel some lengths og 2 x 2 or 2 x 4 and a jack,
leave the panel under pressure for 24 hours or so for the glue to cure and you are done
--
1973 23' # 1848 Sky Blue Glacier called Baby Blue and a 1973 26'-3 # 1460 Parrot green Seqouia Known as the Big Green,
And sold my 1973 26'-2 # 581 White Canyon lands under the name Dobbelt trøbbel
in Norway
 
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