Better yet, call Jim Bounds and get his kit which includes a shut-off valve and a
Schrder valve along with all the necessary air fittings. With this setup you can
isolate an air bag with the turn of a handle and pump it up using the permantly
mounted Schrader. Easy to install (1/2 hour per side) and not expensive. Worth
5X the price if you need to pump up the bag at night beside the road!!!
Gary
'77 Kingsley
North Bend, Oregon Coast (Sunshine!!!)
> Just returned from a 1,725 mile "quick trip" from Springfield, MO to Ft.
> Collins, CO. Was not towing, and had 5 aboard and their gear. Road conditions
> included the Friday blizzard in Kansas that eventually closed I-70 (20 mph,
> single lane, heavy snow) . Average mileage was 7.98 mpg for the trip. Mileage
> back was 8.41. This info is for those who are contemplating the Jacobs setup,
> which I installed literally hours before my departure. I cannot claim any
> mileage increase based on this trip, however pickup seems to be better. There
> is also much city driving in this, and bucking headwinds coming across Kansas
> yesterday.
>
> Prior to my departure, with my rig sitting for 5 weeks while I tinkered with
> it (new sailboat type teak dinette table in the "salon" and new salon side
> chairs, new tach, changed out ATF to Mobil Uno, etc.). During this idle time,
> I ran the engine, maybe a few hours, all added up, but never moved the
> motorhome. When I am getting ready to leave the storage yard to fuel up and
> leave for Ft. Collins, literally in 2 hours, THE GEARSHIFT WOULD NOT SHIFT OUT
> OF PARK. Naturally, I freaked out. I call experts that I have traded with,
> including Ken Frey and Ray Curtis and Cinnabar. Jim Bounds would have gotten a
> call, but lucky for him, his business is not listed with the phone company,
> and no-one was home at his residence. All of the above gave me help diagnosing
> that my shift cable was suspect. This is a special cable - no substitute from
> what I have determined. Luckily, by disconnecting the shift cable from the
> transmission, I was able to free it up, but it is going to be replaced.
>
> Now, 140 miles from Ft. Collins, near Strasburg, CO I got a "low air"
> indication. I couldn;t make it go away by changing the controls. I pulled
> (dragged) into a gas station and pumped up the tank, and thus the system. I
> was able to crawl into Ft. Collins, but keeping the system up was getting to
> be impossible. The next morning, I checked all of the lines, and there was a
> minor leak at the tank but nothing major. I had a Gateway Dana rebuild kit, so
> I set about that task. (Be prepared to soak your Dana head bolts in
> penetrating oil for a time, or you will be facing some broken ones, which were
> not to difficult to remove with vise grips.) Anyway, when I took out the Dana
> filters, I noticed that one "crank" was worn out, and could not be "set
> screwed" onto it's shaft. I had only one cylinder which meant I could not
> finish the rebuild. I called Ray Curtis and he said to go get some Shraeder
> valves and screw them into the bags, air them up and drive back to Missouri.
> This is what I did. So I am recommending that these valves (about $2 each) be
> added to everyones tool kit. When you go to the parts store, don't ask for a
> Schraeder valve, they will not know what you are talking about, trust me. Ask
> for a Tank Valve (for an air tank) these screw right in the bag fitting. (Put
> a jack under the bogie, remove the air line, install the valve, add air). I
> put in about 110#, not knowing any better. I carry a Sears 125#, 120volt
> compressor. Now it's time to replace the compressor. See my adjacent post.
> Larry Nelson, Springfield, MO PB-75
Schrder valve along with all the necessary air fittings. With this setup you can
isolate an air bag with the turn of a handle and pump it up using the permantly
mounted Schrader. Easy to install (1/2 hour per side) and not expensive. Worth
5X the price if you need to pump up the bag at night beside the road!!!
Gary
'77 Kingsley
North Bend, Oregon Coast (Sunshine!!!)
> Just returned from a 1,725 mile "quick trip" from Springfield, MO to Ft.
> Collins, CO. Was not towing, and had 5 aboard and their gear. Road conditions
> included the Friday blizzard in Kansas that eventually closed I-70 (20 mph,
> single lane, heavy snow) . Average mileage was 7.98 mpg for the trip. Mileage
> back was 8.41. This info is for those who are contemplating the Jacobs setup,
> which I installed literally hours before my departure. I cannot claim any
> mileage increase based on this trip, however pickup seems to be better. There
> is also much city driving in this, and bucking headwinds coming across Kansas
> yesterday.
>
> Prior to my departure, with my rig sitting for 5 weeks while I tinkered with
> it (new sailboat type teak dinette table in the "salon" and new salon side
> chairs, new tach, changed out ATF to Mobil Uno, etc.). During this idle time,
> I ran the engine, maybe a few hours, all added up, but never moved the
> motorhome. When I am getting ready to leave the storage yard to fuel up and
> leave for Ft. Collins, literally in 2 hours, THE GEARSHIFT WOULD NOT SHIFT OUT
> OF PARK. Naturally, I freaked out. I call experts that I have traded with,
> including Ken Frey and Ray Curtis and Cinnabar. Jim Bounds would have gotten a
> call, but lucky for him, his business is not listed with the phone company,
> and no-one was home at his residence. All of the above gave me help diagnosing
> that my shift cable was suspect. This is a special cable - no substitute from
> what I have determined. Luckily, by disconnecting the shift cable from the
> transmission, I was able to free it up, but it is going to be replaced.
>
> Now, 140 miles from Ft. Collins, near Strasburg, CO I got a "low air"
> indication. I couldn;t make it go away by changing the controls. I pulled
> (dragged) into a gas station and pumped up the tank, and thus the system. I
> was able to crawl into Ft. Collins, but keeping the system up was getting to
> be impossible. The next morning, I checked all of the lines, and there was a
> minor leak at the tank but nothing major. I had a Gateway Dana rebuild kit, so
> I set about that task. (Be prepared to soak your Dana head bolts in
> penetrating oil for a time, or you will be facing some broken ones, which were
> not to difficult to remove with vise grips.) Anyway, when I took out the Dana
> filters, I noticed that one "crank" was worn out, and could not be "set
> screwed" onto it's shaft. I had only one cylinder which meant I could not
> finish the rebuild. I called Ray Curtis and he said to go get some Shraeder
> valves and screw them into the bags, air them up and drive back to Missouri.
> This is what I did. So I am recommending that these valves (about $2 each) be
> added to everyones tool kit. When you go to the parts store, don't ask for a
> Schraeder valve, they will not know what you are talking about, trust me. Ask
> for a Tank Valve (for an air tank) these screw right in the bag fitting. (Put
> a jack under the bogie, remove the air line, install the valve, add air). I
> put in about 110#, not knowing any better. I carry a Sears 125#, 120volt
> compressor. Now it's time to replace the compressor. See my adjacent post.
> Larry Nelson, Springfield, MO PB-75
