The main thing that I like about it is it's readily available, welds
easily, isn't 'as' suseptable to vibration or heat stress cracking. I'd
probably allow for it by usine 3/16" or even 1/4" thickness instead of
1/8". That'd make it easier to weld also
I don't see any sense in replacing the whole thing if only a part of it was
badly rusted.
For a hole, I'd definitly scab and stitch weld it.
haha, I'm good at blacksmith'n (I'm southern)
>In a message dated 4/13/99 7:03:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bdub
>writes:
>
>> steel was mild 60k# tensile A36.
>
>Hi Bdub!
>
>I personally have a problem with using A36, although a very common steel.
>Our frames are made of steel that is in the 120,000 to 140,000 strength
>category. Our frames are only 1/8 material. It would be my suggestion if the
>rusted area was huge like my pictures at
>Adohen Scott
>Nehoda (Odds and Ends site)
> to replace the whole frame rail one side at a time. If the whole was
>small, I might attempt a weld repair. But don't you know if I did that the
>weld would be on my mind for quite along time.
>
http://smsgmc.webjump.com t=_self]Zak's Project[/url]
>
>Scott NEHODA'S
>BACK YARD
>
>
>
>
>
bdub
'76 Palm Beach
In The Heart o Texas
www.web-access.net/~bmassey/
icq # 202333