> Bill,
>
> I hope you don't have much of a build up of polyurethane. I fell in
> love with PL Polyurethane several years ago, finding it an excellent
> flexible sealant and adhesive. Before preparing my 23' for painting
> by
> Topeka Graphics, I called PL and asked whether the sealant could
> withstand the high volatility automotive paints. Their answer was
> "Sure, just be sure you give it 7 days to cure before painting."
>
> So, I sealed all the joints, except along the beltline rail, including
> the rear "hatch", with that product, which I bought at Home Depot or
> Lowes.
>
> The paint job was, and is, beautiful, with hardly a flaw. For about 3
> years. Then, along every seam I'd sealed with PL, the paint began to
> flake off. PL told me their product would withstand automotive
> paints.
> What I didn't ask, and they didn't volunteer, is that the paint won't
> stick to their product!
However, that product is really great for use on a house. I have a
stucco over adobe house here in Santa Fe and where the stucco meets
the sides of the window and door frames I have had to recaulk about
every two years. I had tried a variety of caulks before using the
PL. It has been in for over 5 years now and is still sealing well.
It does hold a latex house paint very well which some of the other
caulks did not. It must just be that automotive paints don't hold to
it.
PL has several formulations. I used the trim and siding tube.
I have also used the black "foundation caulk" from PL to seal around
the black weatherstripping of the windows and it is holding well.
However I didn't have to try any paint on it as the black is a good
match to the rubber.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
>
> I hope you don't have much of a build up of polyurethane. I fell in
> love with PL Polyurethane several years ago, finding it an excellent
> flexible sealant and adhesive. Before preparing my 23' for painting
> by
> Topeka Graphics, I called PL and asked whether the sealant could
> withstand the high volatility automotive paints. Their answer was
> "Sure, just be sure you give it 7 days to cure before painting."
>
> So, I sealed all the joints, except along the beltline rail, including
> the rear "hatch", with that product, which I bought at Home Depot or
> Lowes.
>
> The paint job was, and is, beautiful, with hardly a flaw. For about 3
> years. Then, along every seam I'd sealed with PL, the paint began to
> flake off. PL told me their product would withstand automotive
> paints.
> What I didn't ask, and they didn't volunteer, is that the paint won't
> stick to their product!
However, that product is really great for use on a house. I have a
stucco over adobe house here in Santa Fe and where the stucco meets
the sides of the window and door frames I have had to recaulk about
every two years. I had tried a variety of caulks before using the
PL. It has been in for over 5 years now and is still sealing well.
It does hold a latex house paint very well which some of the other
caulks did not. It must just be that automotive paints don't hold to
it.
PL has several formulations. I used the trim and siding tube.
I have also used the black "foundation caulk" from PL to seal around
the black weatherstripping of the windows and it is holding well.
However I didn't have to try any paint on it as the black is a good
match to the rubber.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
