roof pop rivets

R

Rich Kinas

Member
Jul 30, 2019
110
1
18
So I am still in the process of sealing up all my window/roof leaks. Relating to the roof, I removed the drivers side, long aluminum section that
covers the roof/upper body seam (a very long drip rail, correct name?) in preparation for resealing. My wife helped me remove it, definitely a two
person job. Anyway after it was out of the way my roof up by the driver has about three of large head pop rivets that hold the roof edge to the
aluminum frame missing. Today I'm planning on figuring out what happened (just heads snapped off, whole rivet fell out, or oxidized and
disintegrated). Whatever the results I need to add pop-rivets back in place to re-secure the roof. Does anyone know the correct rivets to use? I only
use closed end rivets on the roof so as to not create another leak point, even though these are covered, and these do have the extra large heads but I
am not sure of the "grip" depth I need to purchase. When I get to looking today maybe I can figure it out, but it is very early here in Orlando and
sitting here drinking my coffee, I figured I'd ask since I'm sure this has been discussed before but probably under a painting thread or something
else to where I cannot find it, so I'm going to ask a related window question in another topic discussion...

Thanks for any assistance,

Rich Kinas

--
Rich Kinas
1976 Elaganza II
Orlando, FL
 
I believe they are 3/16 diameter and have a grip range of 1/4–3/8”. You can
use a longer grip range rivet iirc because the extrusion you are riveting
into is hollow and fairly large.

Sully
Bellevue wa

On Sat, Oct 12, 2019 at 3:48 AM Rich Kinas via Gmclist <

> So I am still in the process of sealing up all my window/roof leaks.
> Relating to the roof, I removed the drivers side, long aluminum section that
> covers the roof/upper body seam (a very long drip rail, correct name?) in
> preparation for resealing. My wife helped me remove it, definitely a two
> person job. Anyway after it was out of the way my roof up by the driver
> has about three of large head pop rivets that hold the roof edge to the
> aluminum frame missing. Today I'm planning on figuring out what happened
> (just heads snapped off, whole rivet fell out, or oxidized and
> disintegrated). Whatever the results I need to add pop-rivets back in
> place to re-secure the roof. Does anyone know the correct rivets to use? I
> only
> use closed end rivets on the roof so as to not create another leak point,
> even though these are covered, and these do have the extra large heads but I
> am not sure of the "grip" depth I need to purchase. When I get to looking
> today maybe I can figure it out, but it is very early here in Orlando and
> sitting here drinking my coffee, I figured I'd ask since I'm sure this has
> been discussed before but probably under a painting thread or something
> else to where I cannot find it, so I'm going to ask a related window
> question in another topic discussion...
>
> Thanks for any assistance,
>
> Rich Kinas
>
>
> --
> Rich Kinas
> 1976 Elaganza II
> Orlando, FL
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I would visit a marine store for your rivets.....you want "splay or claw rivets" and not "pop rivets".....a pop rivet just bunched the material behind
it and then releases the center leaving you a hole plus they dont grab that great if the holes are not perfect. A splay rivet will slice open as the
plunger or pin pulls up creating a claw and grabs from behind plus the pin doesnt drop out. YMMV and JMO.
--
Rich Mondor,

Brockville, ON

77 Hughes 2600
 
Most pop rivets will have the nail break off at the surface and it will remain in the rivet.
but it could still leak a little bit.
 
So the type of rivet I was planning on using is a closed-end blind Aluminum rivet with Aluminum mandrel with large flange (head). The large flange is
usually used on material where there is risk of pull thorough. I do not think this would have been a problem with the aluminum roof, but the GMC
engineering thought so I guess. I also see the value of the peel type of rivet, no chance of pull out with a large flange head, but will have a hole
in the middle left that I could fill with epoxy I guess. Hmmm... today I will finally have time to investigate what was original by getting inside the
coach, and hopefully I will be able to see whats what. I'll let you all know I find and I'll be sure to take a picture or two.

Rich
--
Rich Kinas
1976 Elaganza II
Orlando, FL
 
What about the rivets that go across the seam? The seam that connects plastic end cap wth the aluminum roof? These are exposed rivets, not under the
rail. They go across the roof, from the beginning of the end rail on drivers side to the passenger side. I have one that is separated, exposing a
large gap.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LxB7KDi6yAkhkZPb6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/366s3FyJ4ZdMA9paA
--
Kevin Carter
1977 Kingsley
Centennial CO
 
What about them? Are you asking a question that would require a response? I
am not sure.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Mon, Oct 14, 2019, 8:14 AM KC via Gmclist
wrote:

> What about the rivets that go across the seam? The seam that connects
> plastic end cap wth the aluminum roof? These are exposed rivets, not under
> the
> rail. They go across the roof, from the beginning of the end rail on
> drivers side to the passenger side. I have one that is separated, exposing a
> large gap.
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/LxB7KDi6yAkhkZPb6
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/366s3FyJ4ZdMA9paA
> --
> Kevin Carter
> 1977 Kingsley
> Centennial CO
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Sorry, I need more coffee. Wondering what to use for these rivets. They are joining the metal oof to the plastic cap, so need more length? How long?
And Someone I read somewhere said to use Stainless Steel shank aluminum head blind sealig rivets with an air riveter. Is the air irveter necessary?
Hate to buy a $40 tool for one rivet. Just looking for some guidance here on what size/type of rivet to choose and what tool I will need to install.
--
Kevin Carter
1977 Kingsley
Centennial CO
 
There are low profile "Blind" rivets, made by Marson Corporation that have
gripping ranges that vary in 1/8" variations. They have a large head for
use on softer materials like plastics. Identified by numbers like L6-4 to
L6-12. THEY ARE CLOSED END RIVETS, NOT HOLLOW TUBES. So, they are somewhat
leak resistant. They are a bitch to cinch up, Marson makes a two-handed
tool called the "Big Daddy" #39031. It will cinch them up. As will a
pneumatic rivet gun. Hope this helps.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Mon, Oct 14, 2019, 8:36 AM KC via Gmclist
wrote:

> Sorry, I need more coffee. Wondering what to use for these rivets. They
> are joining the metal oof to the plastic cap, so need more length? How long?
> And Someone I read somewhere said to use Stainless Steel shank aluminum
> head blind sealig rivets with an air riveter. Is the air irveter necessary?
> Hate to buy a $40 tool for one rivet. Just looking for some guidance here
> on what size/type of rivet to choose and what tool I will need to install.
> --
> Kevin Carter
> 1977 Kingsley
> Centennial CO
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
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