ride height

I suppose that could cause some it of they are defiantly due for
replacement but not this year. I need to get some use out of the coach. The fiasco I had with the body pads earlier ate up too much of my time. Paula has been on me about living under the coach and putting off needed chores. But you made a good point I have been putting off changing the bushings and they are obviously worn.
Roy
 
> Roy,
>
> This is interesting. I got to thinking about how you could have level axles at a lower ride height and as far as I can figure the OD
> of the tires is one reason (which you've noted) and the second is the condition of the lower bushings.
>
> If they are like the ones on the right in SteveF's picture:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=17313
>
> That would cause some of it but not half an inch.
>
> Anybody else have any ideas?
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.

I saw a set last year at Blaine's work rally where the steel center bushing was wearing on the steel outer sleeve. The rubber was completely gone in that area. The owner replaced them with Urethane bushings.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Well the antique tool did the job of unloading the torsion bars.
I set the front from the level garage floor to the top of the slot as the spec calls out (12 turns = 2")to 13 1/8". That was way high according to the drive axel. I wound up setting it at
12 5/8" to the top of the slot after driving around a few miles. At this setting the axel is level. I set the rear to 8 1/2" to have it slightly down in back. I don't know why it didn't like the 13 1/8" setting as I'm running 225 75 16 tires but they are new and have agressive thread. I'll check it again after the next trip. From what I have read level axel's are the goal.
Roy

Sent from my iPad
 
Jerry I corrected that on the forum it was 8 1/2 to the frame but 11 1/2 to the slot as the slot couldn't be accessed on the generator side.
Roy
 
> Roy,
>
> This is interesting. I got to thinking about how you could have level axles at a lower ride height and as far as I can figure the OD
> of the tires is one reason (which you've noted) and the second is the condition of the lower bushings.
>
> If they are like the ones on the right in SteveF's picture:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=17313
>
> That would cause some of it but not half an inch.
>
> Anybody else have any ideas?
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.



Does it say anywhere in the manuals that the axels should be level? When I set up the suspension and drive train of a hotrod I strive for 2 to 3 degrees of offset angle at the u-joints to prevent vibration. I do not know if CV joints need offset. A real mechanic will probably know the answer.
--
Larry Dilk
Indianapolis, IN
76 Eleganza II
Patterson 455,Turbo City TBI,
Just LOVE It!
 
Larry,

I have never found any statements regarding the axles being level in the MM.

I agree with you that drive shafts with universal joints should be setup with a slight angle.

I'm GUESSTIMATING here: the axles in the GMC are about 1 1/4" OD, about 18" long, solid metal with splines machined at both ends.

A drive shaft is usually a hollow tube about 3-4 inches in diameter; two times as long, with u-joint "flanges" welded on both ends,
and they are balanced.

I reckon it is remote that you would get any vibration from the front axles unless an inner or outer CV joint were seriously messed
up!

I first heard about setting the axles level from Ken Frey of Frey's Automotive in Quakertown, PA:

http://www.kenlfreyautorepair.com/home

If you note he has 40 years experience as a mechanic so I reckon he'd qualify as a "real mechanic." ;-)

He told me two things about setting the ride height in a GMC:

1) the front ride height should be set to make the axles level

2) the rear ride height should be set so that you can draw a line from the center of the middle wheel axle / stub shaft to the rear
axle / stub shaft and that line should intersect the middle of the bogie pivot points.

As I noted in a number of other threads, The Blue Streak is up on jack stands with the rear air suspension inop so I can't verify
any of this stuff. I ga-ron-tee as soon as I get it back on the ground I WILL verify all this information.

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry and Cheryl Dilk

Does it say anywhere in the manuals that the axels should be level? When I set up the suspension and drive train of a hotrod I
strive for 2 to 3 degrees of offset angle at the u-joints to prevent vibration. I do not know if CV joints need offset. A real
mechanic will probably know the answer.
--
Larry
 
> Larry,
>
> I have never found any statements regarding the axles being level in the MM.
>
> I agree with you that drive shafts with universal joints should be setup with a slight angle.
>
> I'm GUESSTIMATING here: the axles in the GMC are about 1 1/4" OD, about 18" long, solid metal with splines machined at both ends.
>
> A drive shaft is usually a hollow tube about 3-4 inches in diameter; two times as long, with u-joint "flanges" welded on both ends,
> and they are balanced.
>
> I reckon it is remote that you would get any vibration from the front axles unless an inner or outer CV joint were seriously messed
> up!
>
> I first heard about setting the axles level from Ken Frey of Frey's Automotive in Quakertown, PA:
>
> http://www.kenlfreyautorepair.com/home
>
> If you note he has 40 years experience as a mechanic so I reckon he'd qualify as a "real mechanic." ;)
>
> He told me two things about setting the ride height in a GMC:
>
> 1) the front ride height should be set to make the axles level
>
> 2) the rear ride height should be set so that you can draw a line from the center of the middle wheel axle / stub shaft to the rear
> axle / stub shaft and that line should intersect the middle of the bogie pivot points.
>
> As I noted in a number of other threads, The Blue Streak is up on jack stands with the rear air suspension inop so I can't verify
> any of this stuff. I ga-ron-tee as soon as I get it back on the ground I WILL verify all this information.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.

Well my axels are not level and my front ride height is within specs for ride height. So I'm wondering what should be changed or do nothing. I have ignored this topic always thinking some of the old timers would document the level axel criteria.
--
Larry Dilk
Indianapolis, IN
76 Eleganza II
Patterson 455,Turbo City TBI,
Just LOVE It!
 
Larry,

Are you saying you don't trust a young whippersnapper? I turned 65 day before yesterday!

Just kidding, I agree with you I'd like to see it somewhere in print.

Here's what I think effects the relationship between ride height and axle "levelness."

1) Tire diameter - MM X-7525 Page 10-1 Wheels and Tires / General Description notes "The factory installed tires . . . . . They are
. . . . 8.75 x 16.5. . . "

The only tire 8.75 X 16.5 tire I could find was from The Tire Rack and it was the Firestone Transforce 8.75 X 16.5 which have an OD
of 29.5 inches. I checked for 225X75-16 and found they're the same size.

2) Engine / trans mounts - they set the position of the final drive and flanges in relation to the frame

3) Lower control arm bushings - as they age/wear the steel shell for the bolt moves

I just thought of something, Byron noted that Paul Deesen who was on many of the design teams at GM from the mid-50's through the
mid-90's will speak at the Fall Eastern States Rally. Perhaps he can shed some light on this subject or know who could.

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry and Cheryl Dilk

Well my axels are not level and my front ride height is within specs for ride height. So I'm wondering what should be changed or do
nothing. I have ignored this topic always thinking some of the old timers would document the level axel criteria.
--
Larry
 
I would think you want some movement so you don't have all the wear in one little spot on the bearing.

Move it around a little, spread the wear out
--
Keith
69 Vette
29 Dodge
75 Royale GMC
 
Keith,

Absolutely!

As the suspension moves up and down to absorb bumps and turn that happens.

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Of Keith V

I would think you want some movement so you don't have all the wear in one little spot on the bearing.

Move it around a little, spread the wear out
--
Keith
 
Larry, It is common to have cross and yoke universal joints slightly out of
plane by 1 or 2 degrees. That is supposed to minimize vibrations and ensure
that the needles circulate instead of remain in a stationary position, The
purpose is to extend the service life. The Ruzeppa type joint like our GMCs
use on the outboard end, have large diameter balls with mating housings that
will tolerate considerably more misalignment than the cross and yoke design.
The inboard joints on our GMCs are ball and trunion design with three needle
filled large diameter balls that run in a machined track and are located by
hardened trunion pins. The purpose of this type of joint is to allow the
shaft to extend and retract with suspension movement and also to transmit
power to the wheel. A tip that I learned about whether the joints are failed
or not is to point the wheels straight ahead, and moving the coach slowly
forward on a very smooth surface, lightly hold the steering wheel between
the thumb and forefinger, see if there is any oscillation felt through the
light touch of the wheel. If you feel three oscillations per revolution of
wheel travel, the inboard joints are at fault. If you feel a lot more
oscillations, then it is likely that the outboard joints are the problem.
Not scientific, just seat of the pants stuff, but it tells you where to
start looking if problems are suspected. The horiziontal plane of the entire
shaft when the coach is at correct ride height is slightly lower on the
outboard end. If your bushings are worn out in the lower control arms, then
it could be quite different. Some coaches with everything in the front
suspension quite worn drive fairly well on smooth roads when there is slight
winds. When driving conditions are poor and everything is worn, the same
coach can be a handful to control.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403

On Sat, Sep 3, 2011 at 8:50 PM, Larry and Cheryl Dilk wrote:

>
>

> > Roy,
> >
> > This is interesting. I got to thinking about how you could have level
> axles at a lower ride height and as far as I can figure the OD
> > of the tires is one reason (which you've noted) and the second is the
> condition of the lower bushings.
> >
> > If they are like the ones on the right in SteveF's picture:
> >
> > http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=17313
> >
> > That would cause some of it but not half an inch.
> >
> > Anybody else have any ideas?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Rob M.
>
>
>
> Does it say anywhere in the manuals that the axels should be level? When I
> set up the suspension and drive train of a hotrod I strive for 2 to 3
> degrees of offset angle at the u-joints to prevent vibration. I do not know
> if CV joints need offset. A real mechanic will probably know the answer.
> --
> Larry Dilk
> Indianapolis, IN
> 76 Eleganza II
> Patterson 455,Turbo City TBI,
> Just LOVE It!
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
 
Jim,

The name for the CV joint sounded exotic and intrigued me so I did a Google search and found that Alfred H. Rzeppa invented it way
back in 1926 when he was an engineer for Ford, I wonder what they used it for way back then?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred_H._Rzeppa

Oh yeah, thanks for the troubleshooting lesson! ;-)

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: James Hupy

The Ruzeppa type joint like our GMCs

Jim
 
Rob, a further note about that engineer. He was trained in Poland and lived
in that country. When the Nazis were ascending to power, he beat feet to the
USA, and worked for Ford and others. Brilliant man, along the lines of Zora
Arkus Duntov. The overhead valve hemi head conversions for Ford Flatheads
were named after him, using the combination of letters from his middle and
last name. ARDUN. He was also influential in the development of the small
block chevrolet high performance camshafts and intake systems. The 30-30
solid lifter cam was one of his collaborative efforts as well. He is well
known in Corvette circles. One of the first applications for the Rzeppa
joints were in Front drive Miller and Cord autos in this country. They were
used in military vehicles in Europe earlier than that. Still in use today.
Patents have long since expired if they even existed at all. Henry Ford
couldn't be bothered by things like patent or copyright infringements, he
figured that employees were his property anyhow.

> Jim,
>
> The name for the CV joint sounded exotic and intrigued me so I did a Google
> search and found that Alfred H. Rzeppa invented it way
> back in 1926 when he was an engineer for Ford, I wonder what they used it
> for way back then?
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred_H._Rzeppa
>
> Oh yeah, thanks for the troubleshooting lesson! ;-)
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Hupy
>
> The Ruzeppa type joint like our GMCs
>
> Jim
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
 
Duntov is also rumored to have a) decreed that the Corvette would have a tilted radiator and some other minor changes to reduce its radar echo, b) Squelched the development of the turbocharged Fiero GT afetr running a test mule around the track: "We'll never sell another Corvette..."  Perhaps apochryphal, but in keeping with the man's genius.
 
--johnny

From: James Hupy
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Ride height
To: gmclist
Date: Sunday, September 4, 2011, 3:19 PM

Rob, a further note about that engineer. He was trained in Poland and lived
in that country. When the Nazis were ascending to power, he beat feet to the
USA, and worked for Ford and others. Brilliant man, along the lines of Zora
Arkus Duntov. The overhead valve hemi head conversions for Ford Flatheads
were named after him, using the combination of letters from his middle and
last name. ARDUN. He was also influential in the development of the small
block chevrolet high performance camshafts and intake systems. The 30-30
solid lifter cam was one of his collaborative efforts as well. He is well
known in Corvette circles. One of the first applications for the Rzeppa
joints were in Front drive Miller and Cord autos in this country. They were
used in military vehicles in Europe earlier than that. Still in use today.
Patents have long since expired if they even existed at all. Henry Ford
couldn't be bothered by things like patent or copyright infringements, he
figured that employees were his property anyhow.

> Jim,
>
> The name for the CV joint sounded exotic and intrigued me so I did a Google
> search and found that Alfred H. Rzeppa invented it way
> back in 1926 when he was an engineer for Ford, I wonder what they used it
> for way back then?
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred_H._Rzeppa
>
> Oh yeah, thanks for the troubleshooting lesson! ;-)
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Hupy
>
> The Ruzeppa type joint like our GMCs
>
> Jim
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
>
>
> I would think you want some movement so you don't have all the wear in one little spot on the bearing.
>
> Move it around a little, spread the wear out
> --
> Keith
> 69 Vette
> 29 Dodge
> 75 Royale GMC
>

Unless you assume that the roads are completely level with no bumps or ups and down you will have some movement all the time even if you start with the axles level. So, don't worry about wearing one little spot on the bearings.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM