ride height

Thanks for all of the feedback. When I get in there tomorrow am I will measure from the elongated holes. It just doesn't look right with the tail hanging a bit but from what you all have been saying, it could be spot on. Ill report back after checking for those who are curious

Sully
77 royale
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: James Hupy
Sender: gmclist-bounces
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 17:31:40
To:
Reply-To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] ride height

Sully, the MM I refer to is the Maintence Manual. What many GMCers do, is
put a shut off valve at the air bag inlet connection along with a schrader
valve. They adjust the rear ride height by manually airing up the bags until
the bottom of the frame rail is the correct distance from the ground, or
until the visual center of the rear wheel spindles and the bogie pins are
all in a line, or they just use what looks right to them. More of them that
way than any other I suspect according to the coaches that I work on. I like
to be a hell of a lot more precise than that. My 78 Royale handles a lot
better in corners and in truck traffic when it is spot on. I have EL 2,
which has electronic ride height control. I spent a lot of time getting it
to work the way the book says it is supposed to. I have the adjustable
turnbuckles and they simplify the final adjustment proceedure.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403

> So the linkages in each wheel well to the valve is the only way to adjust
> it? Is MM in your response millimeters?
>
> Sully
> 77 royale
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Hupy
> Sender: gmclist-bounces
> Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 14:52:03
> To:
> Reply-To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] ride height
>
> Sully, the height control valves can be adjusted to raise the rear slightly
> higher. There are adjustable turnbuckles aftermarket that work well for
> this. Normal ride height is somewhat lower in the rear. The specs are in
> the
> MM.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, OR
> 78 GMC Royale 403
>

>
> >
> >
> > I have a 77 Royale with electro level suspension(one compressor mounted
> > behind drivers side wheel well rear. I believe this is the electro level
> > one?)My controller operates the pump on manual raise and lower and will
> > level the coach when left on auto. The problem is while it appears to
> level
> > side to side in auto mode it shuts off when the rear of the coach is
> about 2
> > inches lower than the front when measured from the straight section of
> the
> > frame behind the rear wheels and the furthest horizonal part of the frame
> > towards the front. What is the simplest way to adjust system to get the
> rear
> > to come all the way up to true level?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> > --
> > Sully
> > 77 Royale basket case.
> > Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
> _______________________________________________
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>
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Hi Sully, You can only measure ride height via the slots cut in the fr=
ame front and rear. From the TOP of the front slot (near where the sub fra=
me bolts to the main part of the frame) to level ground needs to be 13 1/8"=
+- 1/4. That has to be set via the torsion bar adjuster bolts WHICH CAN O=
NLY BE TURNED AFTER YOU INSTAL AND PROPERLY USE THE SPECIAL TORSION BAR UN=
LOADING TOOL. If you try to adjust ride height via the adjuster bolts them=
selves the factory manual says you will likely strip the bolt threads or th=
e threads in the adjuster nuts. If this does not make sense to you, then d=
o nothing. Ask for help as the torsion bars store an enormous amount of en=
ergy which can be dangerous if not controlled properly. Only after the fro=
nt ride height is set can you adjust the rear ride height to be 11 11/16 +-=
1/4 from the top of the rear slots (look on the frame under the rear compa=
rtment) to level ground. That adjustment is made via changing the rear rid=
e height adjustment link if your system remains stock and is in proper work=
ing condition. No short cuts here. Follow the factory manual which you ca=
n download from Billy M's site. Hope this helps and be careful. Jerry=
Jerry and Sharon Work 78 Royale rear lounge Kerby, OR glwork=
om http://jerrywork.com 541-592-5360 Message: 8 Date: Fri,=
05 Aug 2011 15:07:12 -0500 From: sgltrac Subject: =
[GMCnet] ride height To: gmclist Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset "ISO-885=
9-15" I have a 77 Royale with electro level suspension(one compr=
essor mounted behind drivers side wheel well rear. I believe this is the el=
ectro level one?)My controller operates the pump on manual raise and lower =
and will level the coach when left on auto. The problem is while it appears=
to level side to side in auto mode it shuts off when the rear of the coach=
is about 2 inches lower than the front when measured from the straight sec=
tion of the frame behind the rear wheels and the furthest horizonal part of=
the frame towards the front. What is the simplest way to adjust system to =
get the rear to come all the way up to true level? Thanks, -- =
Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record hold=
er(bucket list)
 
I have a 77 Royale with electro level suspension(one compressor mounted beh=
ind drivers side wheel well rear. I believe this is the electro level one?)=
My controller operates the pump on manual raise and lower and will level th=
e coach when left on auto. The problem is while it appears to level side to=
side in auto mode it shuts off when the rear of the coach is about 2 inche=
s lower than the front when measured from the straight section of the frame=
behind the rear wheels and the furthest horizonal part of the frame toward=
s the front. What is the simplest way to adjust system to get the rear to c=
ome all the way up to true level?

Thanks,

--=20
Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)

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Sir: I would suggest adjusting the rears on a level surface then cut 2) 4x4 blocks that sit under the frame at the race track holes at ride height. Then using the blocks dump the air on the rears and then set the front ride height. Drive and recheck.
--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont by Midas
East Tennessee
 
> It would be nice if the generator drawer bracket diddnt cover the rear oval measurement point on the left rear. I measured from the front holes after checking tire pressures and came up with 15 1/8" LF,14 5/8" RF, 12" RR and approx 11 3/4" LR(taking the difference of height from bottom of rt rail to same location on left rear rail and subtracting from RR height at measurement hole). The coach has been sitting and jacked up and set down a couple of times from the left front under body braces in an attempt to straighten some sagging floor out riggers under the drivers foot area. I understand from reading other posts that I may need to drive the rig around a little before it will sit where it is "happy".
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sir: I would suggest adjusting the rears on a level surface then cut 2) 4x4 blocks that sit under the frame at the race track holes at ride height. Then using the blocks dump the air on the rears and then set the front ride height. Drive and recheck.


PS: 6 turns on the front torque rod adjusting bolt is about 1".
--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont by Midas
East Tennessee
 
Thanks Charles

Sully
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Boyd
Sender: gmclist-bounces
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 12:52:49
To:
Reply-To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Ride height

> It would be nice if the generator drawer bracket diddnt cover the rear oval measurement point on the left rear. I measured from the front holes after checking tire pressures and came up with 15 1/8" LF,14 5/8" RF, 12" RR and approx 11 3/4" LR(taking the difference of height from bottom of rt rail to same location on left rear rail and subtracting from RR height at measurement hole). The coach has been sitting and jacked up and set down a couple of times from the left front under body braces in an attempt to straighten some sagging floor out riggers under the drivers foot area. I understand from reading other posts that I may need to drive the rig around a little before it will sit where it is "happy".
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sir: I would suggest adjusting the rears on a level surface then cut 2) 4x4 blocks that sit under the frame at the race track holes at ride height. Then using the blocks dump the air on the rears and then set the front ride height. Drive and recheck.

PS: 6 turns on the front torque rod adjusting bolt is about 1".
--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont by Midas
East Tennessee
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My first ride height adjustment experience ocurred in early 1978. In
November 1977, I had purchased a 1974 GMC Sequoia 26' from Reynolds
Buick in West Covina. CA. Reynolds Buick was a big GMC Motorhome
dealer with a very well equipped shop. The coach had 25,000 miles on
it and paperwork showing a recent 6 wheel alignment and ride height
adjust. It had the 16.5" wheels and bias ply tires. The ride home (I
live 125 miles north of West Covina, CA.) was "bumpy" and the way home
included a run up Cajon Pass on I-15 and I had no problems getting
home. I had bought a new 1967 Toronado, so I had some experience with
the drive train. I even had a torsion bar unloader.

After obtaining a set of maintenance manuals, I started with an oil
change. While under the coach and inspecting everything, I noticed it
had replacement lower ball Joints. Then, looking at the torsion bar
adjusting bolts, I found that the right adjusting bolt was tightened
all the way in. Looking at the left adjuster bolt I discovered it was
missing! I just happened to have a spare adjusting bolt.

I finished the oil change and drove the coach and returned to my level
driveway. I checked the ride height according to the manual, and it
was within a 1/16" of correct on all four measurement sites (the Onan
covered the left rear slot, but I worked around this).

After some thought, I raised the back end and marked the frame in the
center of the coach, then lowered it back down and drove 4 or 5 miles,
then back in the driveway. Next I measured between the frame center
and ground. Then to the wood pile and found a round log whos diameter
was the same as the frame to ground measurement. I placed the log
under frame center. Inside the coach, I let 25 lbs of air out of each
air bag. Then I measured the front ride height and found the left side
to be 1.25" low and the right side 3/4" high.

Using the unloader, I adjusted the torsion bars to the correct height.
Then aired up the back to automatic ride height and drove around for a
few miles, the back to the driveway, put the logback in frame center,
let out 25 lbs of air from the air bags and measured front ride height
again. It was closer, but not correct. Re-adjusted ride hieght bact to
specs etc. I had to do about 6 adjustings before the front ride height
was correct after a drive.

The rear ride height adjustment went quicker. It only took two
adjustments to get all four adjustments correct.

The improvement in ride and handling was great, even with the steel wheels.

This exercise convinced me that the rear suspension controls the front
ride hieght side to side.

Chuck Garton
77 Kingsley 455
Ridgecrest, CA

> Thanks Charles
>
> Sully
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charles Boyd
> Sender: gmclist-bounces
> Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 12:52:49
> To:
> Reply-To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Ride height
>
>
>

>> It would be nice if the generator drawer bracket diddnt cover the rear oval measurement point on the left rear. I measured from the front holes after checking tire pressures and came up with 15 1/8" LF,14 5/8" RF, 12" RR and approx 11 3/4" LR(taking the difference of height from bottom of rt rail to same location on left rear rail and subtracting from RR height at measurement hole). The coach has been sitting and jacked up and set down a couple of times from the left front under body braces in an attempt to straighten some sagging floor out riggers under the drivers foot area. I understand from reading other posts that I may need to drive the rig around a little before it will sit where it is "happy".
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sir:  I would suggest adjusting the rears on a level surface then cut 2) 4x4 blocks that sit under the frame at the race track holes at ride height.  Then using the blocks dump the air on the rears and then set the front ride height.  Drive and recheck.
>
>
> PS: 6 turns on the front torque rod adjusting bolt is about 1".
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont by Midas
> East Tennessee
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
 
We do something similar to you and Chuck. I cut 4 adjustment blocks out of 2x2"s and 2x4"s (I got this idea after watching Jim K. check every GMC that was on his hoist in his shop for repairs.)

The reason for the 2x2 and 2x4 difference was to keep from confusing which blocks went where. The blocks match exactly the rear and front ride heights to the bottom of the frame. I have found that just checking height does not work because anything that changes on the coach rear is automatically adjusted for by the air pressure level in the bags.

So what I do to the bags is raise the coach, slide the coach adjustment blocks under the frame, and drop the coach on them until they put a slight amount of weight on them. This locks the rears in place at the correct height and takes the rear movement out of the picture. Then we adjust the fronts for the correct heights. Finally after the front height is correct we put the fronts on a set of scales and check for close to equal loading between the two front wheels. I try to get them within 50 to 75 pounds of each other. I have seen where the front heights will be correct and the weight will be 300 - 400 pounds different. As you crank on the bars to correct this imbalance the weights will change without any movement in ride height. What is happening is one side it taking more weight but the bar is flexing more so the height remains the same. You are correcting this problem.

After the front is done (correct height and near equal weight) go drive it and come back. Stop on a level spot and check the front again using the above procedure.

It may take more than one adjustment process to get those perfect.

Once the fronts are done then measure adjust the rears and readjust as necessary. Only measure and adjust the rears after driving the coach so the leveling switches have had time to find their true spot.

When we weighed the coaches at the DuQuoin rally we also used these same blocks to tell the people where their ride heights were set along with the weights on each wheel.

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
My first ride height adjustment experience ocurred in early 1978. In
November 1977, I had purchased a 1974 GMC Sequoia 26' from Reynolds
Buick in West Covina. CA. Reynolds Buick was a big GMC Motorhome
dealer with a very well equipped shop. The coach had 25,000 miles on
it and paperwork showing a recent 6 wheel alignment and ride height
adjust. It had the 16.5" wheels and bias ply tires. The ride home (I
live 125 miles north of West Covina, CA.) was "bumpy" and the way home
included a run up Cajon Pass on I-15 and I had no problems getting
home. I had bought a new 1967 Toronado, so I had some experience with
the drive train. I even had a torsion bar unloader.

After obtaining a set of maintenance manuals, I started with an oil
change. While under the coach and inspecting everything, I noticed it
had replacement lower ball Joints. Then, looking at the torsion bar
adjusting bolts, I found that the right adjusting bolt was tightened
all the way in. Looking at the left adjuster bolt I discovered it was
missing! I just happened to have a spare adjusting bolt.

I finished the oil change and drove the coach and returned to my level
driveway. I checked the ride height according to the manual, and it
was within a 1/16" of correct on all four measurement sites (the Onan
covered the left rear slot, but I worked around this).

After some thought, I raised the back end and marked the frame in the
center of the coach, then lowered it back down and drove 4 or 5 miles,
then back in the driveway. Next I measured between the frame center
and ground. Then to the wood pile and found a round log whos diameter
was the same as the frame to ground measurement. I placed the log
under frame center. Inside the coach, I let 25 lbs of air out of each
air bag. Then I measured the front ride height and found the left side
to be 1.25" low and the right side 3/4" high.

Using the unloader, I adjusted the torsion bars to the correct height.
Then aired up the back to automatic ride height and drove around for a
few miles, the back to the driveway, put the logback in frame center,
let out 25 lbs of air from the air bags and measured front ride height
again. It was closer, but not correct. Re-adjusted ride hieght bact to
specs etc. I had to do about 6 adjustings before the front ride height
was correct after a drive.

The rear ride height adjustment went quicker. It only took two
adjustments to get all four adjustments correct.

The improvement in ride and handling was great, even with the steel wheels.

This exercise convinced me that the rear suspension controls the front
ride hieght side to side.

Chuck Garton
77 Kingsley 455
Ridgecrest, CA
 
The weights are the way to go. I'm about 800 miles from Qregon, so my
access to scales is one and his scale is raised around the edges....

Chuck Garton

>
>
> We do something similar to you and Chuck.  I cut 4 adjustment blocks out of 2x2"s and 2x4"s  (I got this idea after watching Jim K. check every GMC that was on his hoist in his shop for repairs.)
>
> The reason for the 2x2 and 2x4 difference was to keep from confusing which blocks went where.  The blocks match exactly the rear and front ride heights to the bottom of the frame.   I have found that just checking height does not work because anything that changes on the coach rear is automatically adjusted for by the air pressure level in the bags.
>
> So what I do to the bags is raise the coach, slide the coach adjustment blocks under the frame, and drop the coach on them until they put a slight amount of weight on them.  This locks the rears in place at the correct height and takes the rear movement out of the picture.   Then we adjust the fronts for the correct heights.  Finally after the front height is correct we put the fronts on a set of scales and check for close to equal loading between the two front wheels.  I try to get them within 50 to 75 pounds of each other.   I have seen where the front heights will be correct and the weight will be 300 - 400 pounds different.  As you crank on the bars to correct this imbalance the weights will change without any movement in ride height.   What is happening is one side it taking more weight but the bar is flexing more so the height remains the same.  You are correcting this problem.
>
> After the front is done (correct height and near equal weight) go drive it and come back.  Stop on a level spot and check the front again using the above procedure.
>
> It may take more than one adjustment process to get those perfect.
>
> Once the fronts are done then measure adjust the rears and readjust as necessary.  Only measure and adjust the rears after driving the coach so the leveling switches have had time to find their true spot.
>
> When we weighed the coaches at the DuQuoin rally we also used these same blocks to tell the people where their ride heights were set along with the weights on each wheel.
>
>
>
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
 
I measured my frame at the slot in the front and rear. the rear is close but the front is 2" low. It is still at the factory setting as far as I know. I found an old 1930's Axel tool that should suffice to unload the adjuster. It has a 1" shaft so it should be plenty strong enough. It looks like some adjust the screw with the front wheels on the ground and some with the wheels suspended. I also read 1 turn is approximately 1". So if the rear is set correctly and I tighten the 2 screws 12 turns each I should be in the ball park? Jacking with the wheels off the ground will be easier on the screws??
Roy
 
Roy,

A few points:

If the Axle Tool has a large cross-bar, as old tools are prone to do, it may
not work well on the GMC. Even with a modern tool, it's important to
tighten the support nuts so that the crossbar is near or against the
crossmember. Otherwise, the unloader will tend to lean against the
adjusting screw, making it impossible to turn. A wide crossbar will
probably always interfere with the adjusting screw. Just a caution -- if it
works, Great.

Having the weight off of the front wheel definitely reduces the load on the
unloader tool; should have no effect on the adjusting screw since it's
unloaded.

6 turns of the adjusting screw should yield about one inch change in ride
height.

Before you start, it would be a REAL good idea to read the ride height
adjusting section of the wheel alignment instructions Jerry Work posted last
week.

Ken H.

>
>
> I measured my frame at the slot in the front and rear. the rear is close
> but the front is 2" low. It is still at the factory setting as far as I
> know. I found an old 1930's Axel tool that should suffice to unload the
> adjuster. It has a 1" shaft so it should be plenty strong enough. It looks
> like some adjust the screw with the front wheels on the ground and some with
> the wheels suspended. I also read 1 turn is approximately 1". So if the rear
> is set correctly and I tighten the 2 screws 12 turns each I should be in the
> ball park? Jacking with the wheels off the ground will be easier on the
> screws??
> Roy
>
 
Roy,

When you get done setting the ride height would you please provide the following measurements with your GMC in travel position:

1) Front ride height measurement to the top of the front slot.
2) Rear ride height measurement to the top of the rear slot
3) Measurement from the bottom of the beltline trim piece at the very front to the ground
3) Measurement from the bottom of the beltline trim piece at the very rear to the ground

Confirm that the front axles are straight across and level.

Confirm that a string stretched from the center of the middle axle to the center of the rear axle intersects the center of the
middle and rear bogie pivots.

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: roy

I measured my frame at the slot in the front and rear. the rear is close but the front is 2" low. It is still at the factory setting
as far as I know. I found an old 1930's Axel tool that should suffice to unload the adjuster. It has a 1" shaft so it should be
plenty strong enough. It looks like some adjust the screw with the front wheels on the ground and some with the wheels suspended. I
also read 1 turn is approximately 1". So if the rear is set correctly and I tighten the 2 screws 12 turns each I should be in the
ball park? Jacking with the wheels off the ground will be easier on the screws??
Roy
 
?????

> Confirm that a string stretched from the center of the middle axle to the center of the rear axle intersects the center of the
> middle and rear bogie pivots.
>

this is the trouble we are having with the CA toll bridges, the GMC
only has a front axle near the engine, and a rear axle hooked to the
bogies;>)

gene

--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and -------
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
 
> I measured my frame at the slot in the front and rear. the rear is close but the front is 2" low. It is still at the factory setting as far as I know. I found an old 1930's Axel tool that should suffice to unload the adjuster. It has a 1" shaft so it should be plenty strong enough. It looks like some adjust the screw with the front wheels on the ground and some with the wheels suspended. I also read 1 turn is approximately 1"??. So if the rear is set correctly and I tighten the 2 screws 12 turns each I should be in the ball park? Jacking with the wheels off the ground will be easier on the screws??
> Roy

Roy,

I think I know the tool you are referring to. I am not at all sure that it can fit in where needed and completely unload the adjusting screw. There should be no load on the adjusting screws when you are moving them. If you have the pork chop off the screw, it does not matter if the wheel is off the ground.

Unless you are thinner than anybody I know or have the reach of a spider monkey, you will have to jack the coach to get to the ride height adjusters.

When my coach was found to have bad ride height and balance at last years weigh-in, Chuck Boyd look at me and said 6 turns is an inch and it is pretty close to correct, but correcting the balance in my case to a few iterations.

Matt

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie
'73 Glacier 23 Chaumiere (say show-me-air) Just about as stock as you will find
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
The front wheels are currently on 3 1/2" blocks. the tool I have is like none I have seen before. the body opens to 4" which is just wide enough ,the depth is just right. I had to fabricate a steel bar with a centering bolt to secure it at the top. the adjusting screw is 1" thick fine thread and the adjusting nut is 15/16" this has to be as strong as the factory type unloader. It is probably a special tool for a Reo or something I'll never know. I'll take some of the load off the front wheels before I unload the bar. Thanks guys
Roy
 
Well the antique tool did the job of unloading the torsion bars.
I set the front from the level garage floor to the top of the slot as the spec calls out (12 turns = 2")to 13 1/8". That was way high according to the drive axel. I wound up setting it at
12 5/8" to the top of the slot after driving around a few miles. At this setting the axel is level. I set the rear to 8 1/2" to have it slightly down in back. I don't know why it didn't like the 13 1/8" setting as I'm running 225 75 16 tires but they are new and have agressive thread. I'll check it again after the next trip. From what I have read level axel's are the goal.
Roy
 
Roy,
I'm sticking with level axles as well and I'm at the same setting as yours. If anything I could go down another 1/4".

The manual doesn't say if this setting is an unloaded bare coach as being manufactured at the point where they set the ride level or loaded with fuel, provisions and 6 fat guys heading out on a fishing trip. The previous owners would tip the scale at twice what Paula and I would.

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
Hubler 1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
Bruce thanks for your input. One thing I did notice with the amount I raised the front it seems to ride a little stiffer IE
there are more pots rattling.
Roy
 
Roy,

This is interesting. I got to thinking about how you could have level axles at a lower ride height and as far as I can figure the OD
of the tires is one reason (which you've noted) and the second is the condition of the lower bushings.

If they are like the ones on the right in SteveF's picture:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=17313

That would cause some of it but not half an inch.

Anybody else have any ideas?

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: roy

Well the antique tool did the job of unloading the torsion bars.
I set the front from the level garage floor to the top of the slot as the spec calls out (12 turns = 2")to 13 1/8". That was way
high according to the drive axel. I wound up setting it at
12 5/8" to the top of the slot after driving around a few miles. At this setting the axel is level. I set the rear to 8 1/2" to have
it slightly down in back. I don't know why it didn't like the 13 1/8" setting as I'm running 225 75 16 tires but they are new and
have agressive thread. I'll check it again after the next trip. From what I have read level axel's are the goal.
Roy
 
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