Resealing coach windows

rick boultinghouse

New member
Sep 19, 2005
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I've searched this on the forum and have found differing answers in many posts. I need to remove the glass and reseal them into the frame; not fame to
body. What is the recommended sealant: the gooey black butyl stuff or a silicone type product? I also ordered new rubber gaskets, so those will be
replaced at the same time.

Thanks,
Rick
--
Rick Boultinghouse
Oak Park, IL
77 Kingsley
F 61869 D
 
Rick,

I was wondering if you and Rachael still had your GMC as I hadn't noted any post from you in awhile. Our stay in Chicago was a lot
of fun and I always get a laugh out of GMC owners when I tell them you had to get a permit for us to park out front of your home and
that it was for a dumpster!

Here's a link to Gary Worbec's presentation on sealants:

http://gmcws.org/blog/?p=1827

I believe it will help with your query.

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Rick Boultinghouse
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2017 5:58 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: [GMCnet] Resealing coach windows

I've searched this on the forum and have found differing answers in many posts. I need to remove the glass and reseal them into the
frame; not fame to body. What is the recommended sealant: the gooey black butyl stuff or a silicone type product? I also ordered
new rubber gaskets, so those will be replaced at the same time.

Thanks,
Rick
 
Two distinct types exist. Can be identified as early and late. Early type
has the latches near the ends of the slider glass. Later type near the
center of the window. Later type has a molded rubber/neoprene/etc lock
strip that inserts from outside the coach. Sun/weather shrinks it over time
so that it hardens and pulls away from the glass. Attempts at sealing,
while keeping the opening features, can best be described as difficult to
impossible. But fair success can be had by using butyl windshield sealant
and forgetting the opening feature. Not the best option in my opinion. New
window lock strip can be installed with butyl sealant on the stationary
glasses with fairly good success. But, the sliders, not so much. Keep the
weep holes cleaned out and the frames tight to the body, and good luck with
the leaky sliders. That's my assessment of it, anyway. The cure? One and
one half GMC dollars. New replacement windows from Jim B. or Jim K. The
kind that open and close on hinges. That is a big investment, but it will
stop those leaks. Now, for the roof seams, bat wing antenna, roof air,
vents, clearance lights, plumbing vents, etc. One baby step at a time, I
guess. Jim B has been known to quip, " Leaks?, just drill larger holes in
the floor than you have in the roof. That way, water will run out faster
than it runs in!".
Jim Hupy (I keep my coach under a roof when it is not in use.)
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

On Oct 17, 2017 2:59 PM, "Rick Boultinghouse"
wrote:

> I've searched this on the forum and have found differing answers in many
> posts. I need to remove the glass and reseal them into the frame; not fame
> to
> body. What is the recommended sealant: the gooey black butyl stuff or a
> silicone type product? I also ordered new rubber gaskets, so those will be
> replaced at the same time.
>
> Thanks,
> Rick
> --
> Rick Boultinghouse
> Oak Park, IL
> 77 Kingsley
> F 61869 D
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I never used any sealant. Just used new rubber lock strip.

Did you get your hook back?

Ken B.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
I have a 77 elegansa....the forward most glass om the right side above the table, is giving me problems. It is stationary and the rubber around the glass was pulling out at the top forward most corner. I replaced the rubber with new..Parking with that side to sun it started to pull out again at that corner. I then pulled the rubber out and left it out for a few weeks. When I looked at putting the rubber back I see that the window has pushed out. There is a sticky black sealant that is very soft that I am thinking I will dig out and then try and push the window back. What should I be doing?,,,brian 77 ele 455

________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Ken Burton
Sent: October 17, 2017 8:38 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Resealing coach windows

I never used any sealant. Just used new rubber lock strip.

Did you get your hook back?

Ken B.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

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Rob,

Your visit was great fun. We do still have our coach. I haven't had as much time to post on this forum as I'd like. Free time seems hard to come by
some days, but With Rachel's new job we are again able to tackle some maintenance issues we had deferred, and to get a new set of tires. I had been
reticent to get the coach out and drive more than a about 100 miles from Chicago.

Thanks for the link.
Rick
--
Rick Boultinghouse
Oak Park, IL
77 Kingsley
F 61869 D
 
> I never used any sealant. Just used new rubber lock strip.
>
> Did you get your hook back?
>
> Ken B.

Ken, I did get the jack hook. Thanks. A couple of our fixed windows have shifted from their normal position and I need to move them back. My
thought was to fully remove them all, reseal the fixed glass into a proper position and install new rubber gaskets. The adhesive on the current fixed
glass is the butyl rubber style. I heard folks recommend using that, as well as some recommendations to use a CR Larwence silicon sealant to
reinstall the fixed glass. I'm not sure either would be better, but I would like to do this only once, if such an idea is possible. I will pin in
the fixed glass with a rivet to prevent it from moving in the future.

Regards,
Rick
--
Rick Boultinghouse
Oak Park, IL
77 Kingsley
F 61869 D
 
Actually, the glass floats in the frames as the body flexes and expands and
contracts with heating and cooling. I'm not too sure the rivet idea is a
good one. Be sure to use a NON-HARDENING SEALANT. I personally have no
desire to have ANY silicone based sealant anywhere near my GMC or my entire
shop for that matter. But, use what you want. Silicone will never hold
paint, and "fish eye" when on surfaces that you are painting.
Jim Hupy

On Oct 18, 2017 7:49 AM, "Rick Boultinghouse"
wrote:

> > I never used any sealant. Just used new rubber lock strip.
> >
> > Did you get your hook back?
> >
> > Ken B.
>
>
> Ken, I did get the jack hook. Thanks. A couple of our fixed windows have
> shifted from their normal position and I need to move them back. My
> thought was to fully remove them all, reseal the fixed glass into a proper
> position and install new rubber gaskets. The adhesive on the current fixed
> glass is the butyl rubber style. I heard folks recommend using that, as
> well as some recommendations to use a CR Larwence silicon sealant to
> reinstall the fixed glass. I'm not sure either would be better, but I
> would like to do this only once, if such an idea is possible. I will pin in
> the fixed glass with a rivet to prevent it from moving in the future.
>
> Regards,
> Rick
> --
> Rick Boultinghouse
> Oak Park, IL
> 77 Kingsley
> F 61869 D
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I have just done most of mine (early type) and used the old original strips (rubberish kind of stuff)together with windshield glue from 3M and Wurth,
messy job and I think the most important thing you could do is to have everything as clean as possible before you assemble the windows, no leaks so
far
--
1973 23' # 1848 Sky Blue Glacier called Baby Blue and a 1973 26'-3 # 1460 Parrot green Seqouia Known as the Big Green,
And sold my 1973 26'-2 # 581 White Canyon lands under the name Dobbelt trøbbel
in Norway
 
With regard to the rubber around the outside of the window, I got this tip from Jim Bounds when I replaced my door window: "After installation, paint
both the window frame and the rubber at the same time, as the paint will protect the rubber from UV rays and prevent it from shrinking." Three
summers of outdoor storage later, the rubber looks exactly the same as when it was installed. I wish I had thought of this when I did all the window
trim 10 years ago, as I'm going to be re-doing them all next spring (except for the door window rubber, of course).
--
Nick Chapekis
Ypsilanti, MI
78 Kingsley