RePosting of Fuel Tank Removal

[bnetara]

Fuel Tanks are not that difficult to remove. They are held in place
front and rear by two bolts through the straps that run from front to
rear at the rear of the tanks. The tank at the rear overlaps the frame
member and does not come down until the front attachment is released. In
the front it is held in place by an angle bar that has the straps
riveted to it. This angle bar has three bolts securing it to the frame
cross member. The secret is to use a floor jack with a 24” X 24” piece
of plywood under the center of the tank. It would cover the two fore and
aft straps, but that makes not difference as the straps come down with
the tank.. Release the front of the tank, three bolts while the tank is
supported. Drop the tank a couple of inches to clear the cross member
and then release the two rear bolts that hold the rear of the tank. The
tank can then be moved slightly forward to clear the rear cross member
and then be lowered to the ground. Very easy on a hard surface, but
problems on gravel or dirt. The use of plywood in those situation would
be of some help.
This may be helpful
Bruce & Elizabeth Tara F17210
26-6 X PB ‘Fort Knox’
& Snow ‘White the Toad’
& The ’78 New One 'You Did What’
Gilbert, AZ

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[hardie johnson]

> Fuel Tanks are not that difficult to remove.
> This may be helpful
> Bruce & Elizabeth Tara F17210
> 26-6 X PB 'Fort Knox'
> & Snow 'White the Toad'
> & The '78 New One 'You Did What'
> Gilbert, AZ

Bruce, a good thing to point out, thanks.
If gravel is your work surface, a sheet of foam insulation, not styrofoam, the good stuff, makes a fine cushion.
Taking the tanks out and re-installing them will have the side benefit of some serious ab-reduction, as well.
"all new hoses and a six-pack in one weekend"
--
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC

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[miketeets]

If you are doing your tanks, preorder the Cinnibar filler rubber lines... you will need them unless they have been replaced recently. A 73-74 takes a few more lines and will run about $75. Newer coaches will run about $60. Rubber seals, rings and filter socks for the tanks run another $70. Also get the fuel selector valve from NAPA, part number 2-2057 http://tinyurl.com/2rj3xm List for around $46 but was more expensive here. The big warehouse didn't have them and had to recall one from a local store. Might be in short supply.

I just finished my father's 74. Oddly it took almost twice as long as my 77 a few years ago. I did my 77 alone in the hot summer. I did my fathers with his help in 50ish degrees. We also had his jacked up much higher than mine. Turns out higher is not easier! Colder is definitely harder as the lines are stiff and harder to get on the tanks.

Bad previous owner story: Check your tanks now!!! They had cut off the tank supply and vent lines by the tank. They had connected the drain plugs to a fuel pump. The rear tank filler was a radiator hose connected with duct tape!!!! The only symptom was the generator not running without an almost full tank.

--
Mike
77 Palm Beach, 260, 403
Dublin, OH
http://teamteets.org/GMC
http://classicgmc.wiki-site.com


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[dan gregg]

Mike, what is the best height to have the coach up off the ground when dropping the tanks? I was sucking fumes when I got in from our trip this afternoon. I know now is best time to drop them. Just reluctant to try it by myself. On a 74, do you have the info on the rubber lines on top of the tank? I have replaced everything else, including the filler tubes. Thanks, dan
--
Dan & Teri Gregg

www.danandteri.blogspot.com

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[miketeets]

It looks like I did the first one with the rear tires just barely off of the ground. The second was with tires 6-8 inches off of the ground.

A few more tips:

Spray the rear two bolts with knock-er-loose or equivalent a day or so before starting the job. I broke off one of these. They are a j-hook hanging off of the frame. You can buy a standard bolt from the hardware store, cut off the head and bend into a J. They are double-nutted to keep from droping your tanks at the wrong time.

The sender wire is a bear to get on correctly. It snaps into place but it is easy to think it is on but it just falls off. Make sure before you stuff it up there.

Put the rear tank up first. The vent line going to the rear-drivers side wheel well goes over the rear tank but you need the front tank out to get to the three bolts on the leading edge of the rear tank.

Use tape to hold the hoses in the indented channels in the top of the tank while you get it into place. On both coaches, both tanks, one of the hoses was partially crushed by not being in the right place at the factory.

When putting them back up, bolt the strap end in place, then raise the tank so that the fixed angle with three bolts goes up last. If you have it on
--
Mike
77 Palm Beach, 260, 403
Dublin, OH
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http://classicgmc.wiki-site.com


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[miketeets]

Don't remember exactly which size lines went where... I believe it was the 5/16 hose. I can't really get to it right now to look. The length would be from the center of the tank, to the side rail, then to the fuel selector... vent lines to the wheel well. Probably 25 feet total.
--
Mike
77 Palm Beach, 260, 403
Dublin, OH
http://teamteets.org/GMC
http://classicgmc.wiki-site.com


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[ken betz - - 78 royale]

I bought a transmission jack from Harbor Freight several years ago for fifty-nine bucks, probably more expensive now. As I remember, it has a capacity of 450 lbs. It's a purely mechanical sissors/accordian marginal quality thing but it worked ok when dropping the transmission out of my van and the GMC too for that matter. It also was a big help when dropping and installing fuel tanks in the GMC. It has an adjustable flat surface of maybe 8x12 inches on which I put a piece of plywood to prevent damage to the tanks. It worked especially well when installing the tanks - just jack it up and the tanks stayed in place while I installed the straps. Seemed to be a lot easier than holding the tanks in place using muscle power - - turned it into a single person job. Aso worked quite well when replacing the grey and black water tanks. Just what I did..........
--
Ken Betz
Michigan
78 Royale

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[hardie johnson]

> Mike, what is the best height to have the coach up off the ground when dropping the tanks?

I am not Mike, but I set the height of my removal by where the tank needed to be for me to take the weight in my arms as the bolts were released. Too low, and they come on you and you can't extend enough to hold them; too high and you can't reach high enough to take the weight at all.
The righ jacking system makes all that moot.
"goldilocks height"
--
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC

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[Ken H.]

The lifting pads on my floor jacks lift out, leaving a 1" or so hole. I put
a long bolt, size unimportant, through the center of a big piece of plywood
and that hole with a big washer and a nut underneath. That made a stable
lifting platform for the tanks, similar to Ken's transmission jack, though
with less adjustability. But leaving the nut pretty loose made tilting the
tanks easy -- they really don't weigh much.

Ken Henderson


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Betz - - 78 Royale [mailto:gmcmhdriver]
>
> I bought a transmission jack from Harbor Freight several
> years ago for fifty-nine bucks, probably more expensive now.
> As I remember, it has a capacity of 450 lbs. It's a purely
> mechanical sissors/accordian marginal quality thing but it
> worked ok when dropping the transmission out of my van and
> the GMC too for that matter. It also was a big help when
> dropping and installing fuel tanks in the GMC. It has an
> adjustable flat surface of maybe 8x12 inches on which I put
> a piece of plywood to prevent damage to the tanks. It worked
> especially well when installing the tanks - just jack it up
> and the tanks stayed in place while I installed the straps.
> Seemed to be a lot easier than holding the tanks in place
> using muscle power - - turned it into a single person job.
> Aso worked quite well when replacing the grey and black water
> tanks. Just what I did..........
> --

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[Kelvin]

>
>> Mike, what is the best height to have the coach up off the ground when dropping the tanks?
>>
>
> I am not Mike, but I set the height of my removal by where the tank needed to be for me to take the weight in my arms as the bolts were released. Too low, and they come on you and you can't extend enough to hold them; too high and you can't reach high enough to take the weight at all.
>

This worked pretty well. Airbags at 125psi (with 4x4s under the bogies)
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=13459

I don't think I'd want it any higher. I know I wouldn't like it any
lower.

I like the idea of the tranny jack but a floor jack worked ok.

Kelvin
'73 23' in Eugene, OR

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[Rdenney]

Mike Teets writes...

> Don't remember exactly which size lines went where... I believe
> it was the 5/16 hose. I can't really get to it right now to look.
> The length would be from the center of the tank, to the side rail,
> then to the fuel selector... vent lines to the wheel well. Probably
> 25 feet total.

The supply and fill vent lines to the top of the tank are 3/8". The
tank ventilation system (which goes to the separator in the wheel
well) is 5/16".

Rick "who bought full reels--twice" Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia

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[miketeets]

"Rhino Ramps in the front. Custom ramps in back."

Kelvin, can you drive up onto those ramps? Looks like a pretty steep incline.
--
Mike
77 Palm Beach, 260, 403
Dublin, OH
http://teamteets.org/GMC
http://classicgmc.wiki-site.com


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[jim gunther]

IMHO - this is such an easy job, I would not hesitate to drop the tanks even if I did NOT want to spend the $$s to get new socks etc.

Full disclosure: my coach was extensively reconditioned in the last 10 years - I TOOK A CHANCE 'cause I just didn't want to fiddle with (and screw up) the sender units. That said, the new-ish hoses were cracked and required replacement.

PS: I saw a photo of socks recently that gave me reason to think, perhaps, they ought to be replaced routinely. Maybe every 5 or so years(?). I'll definitely order some over the Winter and do 'em next time I feel like dropping the tanks.


--
Jim Gunther
www.JimGunther.com

73 GMC-II 2600
by Explorer

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[hardie johnson]

> I saw a photo of socks recently that gave me reason to think, perhaps, they ought to be replaced routinely.

Daily, my wife says.
Okay, back to the serious side, why not eliminate the fuel pickup socks and rely on external filters?
"socks and filters, belts and suspenders"

--
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC

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[paul cashman]

Hey Ken,
I was considering blocking off the Vapor Vents on both Fuel Tanks.
The Charcoal Canister probably doesn't work any more and there is the
possibility of cracked Canisters leaking Fuel.
If I did this, I would have to use a Venting Gas Cap.
Ok Guys, I'm ready for the Flack.
Paul Cashman
Riverdale Ga
78 Transmode

> The lifting pads on my floor jacks lift out, leaving a 1" or so hole. I
> put
> a long bolt, size unimportant, through the center of a big piece of
> plywood
> and that hole with a big washer and a nut underneath. That made a stable
> lifting platform for the tanks, similar to Ken's transmission jack, though
> with less adjustability. But leaving the nut pretty loose made tilting
> the
> tanks easy -- they really don't weigh much.
>
> Ken Henderson
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Ken Betz - - 78 Royale [mailto:gmcmhdriver]
>>
>> I bought a transmission jack from Harbor Freight several
>> years ago for fifty-nine bucks, probably more expensive now.
>> As I remember, it has a capacity of 450 lbs. It's a purely
>> mechanical sissors/accordian marginal quality thing but it
>> worked ok when dropping the transmission out of my van and
>> the GMC too for that matter. It also was a big help when
>> dropping and installing fuel tanks in the GMC. It has an
>> adjustable flat surface of maybe 8x12 inches on which I put
>> a piece of plywood to prevent damage to the tanks. It worked
>> especially well when installing the tanks - just jack it up
>> and the tanks stayed in place while I installed the straps.
>> Seemed to be a lot easier than holding the tanks in place
>> using muscle power - - turned it into a single person job.
>> Aso worked quite well when replacing the grey and black water
>> tanks. Just what I did..........
>> --
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change your settings -
> http://www.gmcnet.org/settings.htm
> Donate to support GMCnet - http://www.gmcnet.org/support.html

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[Kelvin]

> "Rhino Ramps in the front. Custom ramps in back."
>
> Kelvin, can you drive up onto those ramps? Looks like a pretty steep incline.
>

I've actually driven up all four at once. I quit doing that, however.
A bit too nerve wracking.

Now I drive up the back ramps and jack the front up and put the tires on
the Rhino ramps. If I need to go higher in the front it sits on
jackstands.

I back off all of the ramps at once, however.

Now I can't say how well this will work with a 260. An extra 2000# in
back. But I borrowed the idea for the ramps from a fellow GMC'er and
I'm guessing there are a few of them in use by 260 owners.

Kelvin

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[Ken H.]

Paul,

Where's all the air gonna go when you're putting gas in the tanks?
Personally, I've got enough trouble filling them already.

Ken H.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Cashman [mailtoaulcashman]
>
> Hey Ken,
> I was considering blocking off the Vapor Vents on both Fuel Tanks.
> The Charcoal Canister probably doesn't work any more and
> there is the possibility of cracked Canisters leaking Fuel.
> If I did this, I would have to use a Venting Gas Cap.

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[gordon & the "tin gerbil"]

Hardie;
Standard procedure when a sock is plugged is to take the filler cap off and
put an 150lb shot of air down the fuel line to blow a hole in the sock. It
does not work all the time because it sometimes rips the sock and the rip
gets sucked onto the end of the pickup. Not a solution if you are home but
it can get you home.
Gordon
1973 Canyon Lands 26' "Tin Gerbil"
Nanaimo, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hardie Johnson"
To: "gmclist"
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: [gmclist] RePosting of Fuel Tank Removal

>
>

>> I saw a photo of socks recently that gave me reason to think, perhaps,
>> they ought to be replaced routinely.
>
> Daily, my wife says.
> Okay, back to the serious side, why not eliminate the fuel pickup socks
> and rely on external filters?
> "socks and filters, belts and suspenders"
>
> --
> Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
> 1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
> Raleigh NC
>
> To unsubscribe or change your settings -
> http://www.gmcnet.org/settings.htm
> Donate to support GMCnet - http://www.gmcnet.org/support.html
>

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[paul cashman]

Hey Ken,
Capping the Vapor Lines would have little if no Effect to the normal Venting
when adding Fuel.
The normal Venting is at the Fuel Filler Neck.
Paul Cashman
Riverdale Ga

> Paul,
>
> Where's all the air gonna go when you're putting gas in the tanks?
> Personally, I've got enough trouble filling them already.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Paul Cashman [mailtoaulcashman]
>>
>> Hey Ken,
>> I was considering blocking off the Vapor Vents on both Fuel Tanks.

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[Ken H.]

Paul,

Until the fuel/air separator in the left rear wheel well gets fuel in it,
that vent line passes air from the tank, just like the vent line to the
filler neck except that it's passed through the charcoal filter to remove
vapor.

Ken H.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Cashman [mailtoaulcashman]

> Hey Ken,
> Capping the Vapor Lines would have little if no Effect to the
> normal Venting when adding Fuel.
> The normal Venting is at the Fuel Filler Neck.
> >
> > Where's all the air gonna go when you're putting gas in the tanks?
> > Personally, I've got enough trouble filling them already.
> >

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