>
> I've removed and refurbished both leveling valves successfully. While I agree
> with the detrimental remarks made about the pot metal valve bodies, I feel that
> I must conserve my bucks if I'm to stay in the GMC MH game. There are enough
> things that I can't repair.
>
> The villains were deteriorated O Rings and pitted valve seats/bores. The seats
> along with old O rings leak. The pitted bores restrict free movement of the
> valve in closing.
>
> The valve seats were refaced (remember hand lapping engine valves?) using
> kitchen cleanser and oil (couldn't fine my lapping compound) with my jury rigged
> valve tool.
>
> The valve cylinder bores were honed using a 1/4" hardwood dowel with a slot
> (bandsaw width) cut into one end. Insert a strip of 400 or 600 wet/dry paper in
> the slot and wind it around until it just fits the bore. Oil the bore & chuck
> the dowel in a cordless drill. Hone only long enough to remove pitting.
>
> Reassemble with 5/32" ID x 1/16" dia. O rings. I was unable to obtain a good
> silicone lube, so I used petroleum jelly liberally in reassembling.
>
> Beware the old (VERY OLD) gaskets. Breaking them will ruin your day.
>
> Now when I raise my unit to the maximum and place my valve in "HOLD", the air
> bags stay full while the rest of my air system leaks down overnight.
>
> Has anyone had experience with a failed check valve between the compressor and
> the storage tank? From my schematic etc in my maintenance manual, this seems
> the next logical villain.
>
> Comments on remaining problems will be appreciated.
>
> Waldo
> 76 Palm Beach (early VIN)
> I've removed and refurbished both leveling valves successfully. While I agree
> with the detrimental remarks made about the pot metal valve bodies, I feel that
> I must conserve my bucks if I'm to stay in the GMC MH game. There are enough
> things that I can't repair.
>
> The villains were deteriorated O Rings and pitted valve seats/bores. The seats
> along with old O rings leak. The pitted bores restrict free movement of the
> valve in closing.
>
> The valve seats were refaced (remember hand lapping engine valves?) using
> kitchen cleanser and oil (couldn't fine my lapping compound) with my jury rigged
> valve tool.
>
> The valve cylinder bores were honed using a 1/4" hardwood dowel with a slot
> (bandsaw width) cut into one end. Insert a strip of 400 or 600 wet/dry paper in
> the slot and wind it around until it just fits the bore. Oil the bore & chuck
> the dowel in a cordless drill. Hone only long enough to remove pitting.
>
> Reassemble with 5/32" ID x 1/16" dia. O rings. I was unable to obtain a good
> silicone lube, so I used petroleum jelly liberally in reassembling.
>
> Beware the old (VERY OLD) gaskets. Breaking them will ruin your day.
>
> Now when I raise my unit to the maximum and place my valve in "HOLD", the air
> bags stay full while the rest of my air system leaks down overnight.
>
> Has anyone had experience with a failed check valve between the compressor and
> the storage tank? From my schematic etc in my maintenance manual, this seems
> the next logical villain.
>
> Comments on remaining problems will be appreciated.
>
> Waldo
> 76 Palm Beach (early VIN)