Report from the trenches

mr.c

New member
Jul 11, 1998
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If you need a Transmission cooler, the installation of the cooler would be
easier if you could mount that in front of the radiator. I installed mine on
the frame member that runs across the front. It went on easy, but would have
been easier if I didn't have anything in the way.
al

> Pulled everything from in front of the 455 crank pulley and all the
> "bolt-ons". Gonna REPLACE 'em all -- including that pesky water pump --
> while I can get at them and keep the originals for absolute emergency,
> can't-get-em-anywhere else spares or turn 'em in for the core charge.
> Found the bottom of the steel rad frame GONE! Gotta fab another then
> slather PRO-15 on everything in sight so THAT doesn't happen again.
> Radiator's not all that good looking and I plan to replace or recore it.
> Any thoughts there?
>
> While I've got her front end off, does anyone who's been through this have
> any suggestions? You know, stuff you'd like to do if you could do it over
> again.
>
> Thanks
> Dick 75 PB in Atlanta
 
600 dollars, what a rip-off. I had mine recored with the HD 4 row core
for under 200 dollars last august.
JRW

>

>
>
 
Radiator from Cinnibar is $450 for regular duty. They did not have any
heavy duty ones in stock. There have been some previous posts on this
net about all sorts of specifications and prices to have the radiator
recored locally. When my let go on the road I called Osborn's in
Albuquerque and he said about $400 to get it recored and four hours R &
R. I took me and another guy in an RV park 4.5 hours on a piece of
cardboard with hand tools and a manual to R & R. If time is not an
issue I would research the archives, and then check locally. Mine let
go on a Friday at 11 am I paid $185 for next day air Saturday
delivery. I "lost" about 28 hours. The estimate from the friendly
Texaco station was $700 just to get it recored 100 miles away in Phoenix
and get it back Tuesday maybe in the afternoon. I saw Al's separate
mount for the cooler and agree that it would be wise to get it away from
the front of the radiator, Also check out all of your hoses including
the oil lines and the tranny lines.

That's what I know. Walter 78 Royale

ps Emery and I finished the Knock eliminator installation today. Road
test was not 100 % but we are working on it.
 
Pulled everything from in front of the 455 crank pulley and all the
"bolt-ons". Gonna REPLACE 'em all -- including that pesky water pump --
while I can get at them and keep the originals for absolute emergency,
can't-get-em-anywhere else spares or turn 'em in for the core charge.
Found the bottom of the steel rad frame GONE! Gotta fab another then
slather PRO-15 on everything in sight so THAT doesn't happen again.
Radiator's not all that good looking and I plan to replace or recore it.
Any thoughts there?

While I've got her front end off, does anyone who's been through this have
any suggestions? You know, stuff you'd like to do if you could do it over
again.

Thanks
Dick 75 PB in Atlanta
 
>
>While I've got her front end off, does anyone who's been through this have
>any suggestions? You know, stuff you'd like to do if you could do it over
>again.
>

Dick,

you might want to consider rebuilding the air handler for the heater/AC.
Also, trans fluid cooler should be added when you put the new core back in
- - if you plan to add that.

Consider a manual heater shutoff in addition to the vacuum controlled one.
If you have the preheat water heater add shutoffs for that as well.

Henry
Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (831) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com