replacing water heater

Bill,

I just replaced mine I have the round tank from the late model units. I got it from Applied, it was pricey but I am sure it will outlast the rest of the coach. Some have put in propane on demand heaters. It’s really not too hard a job, just make sure you have all the new connections properly sealed before you put it back in, you are not going to want to take it back out the fix those drips.

Dan
78 Eleganza II
Central Jersey

>
> were would be a go outlet for a new hot water heater or parts?
>
> --
> *Thanks *
> *Bill Ezzell *
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Thanks, Not looking forward to it Ha ha

> Bill,
>
> I just replaced mine I have the round tank from the late model units. I
> got it from Applied, it was pricey but I am sure it will outlast the rest
> of the coach. Some have put in propane on demand heaters. It’s really not
> too hard a job, just make sure you have all the new connections properly
> sealed before you put it back in, you are not going to want to take it back
> out the fix those drips.
>
> Dan
> 78 Eleganza II
> Central Jersey

> >
> > were would be a go outlet for a new hot water heater or parts?
> >
> > --
> > *Thanks *
> > *Bill Ezzell *
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
> _______________________________________________
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>

--
*Thanks *
*Bill Ezzell *
 
How did you get to all the bolts holding the old water heater.

> Thanks, Not looking forward to it Ha ha
>

>
>> Bill,
>>
>> I just replaced mine I have the round tank from the late model units. I
>> got it from Applied, it was pricey but I am sure it will outlast the rest
>> of the coach. Some have put in propane on demand heaters. It’s really not
>> too hard a job, just make sure you have all the new connections properly
>> sealed before you put it back in, you are not going to want to take it back
>> out the fix those drips.
>>
>> Dan
>> 78 Eleganza II
>> Central Jersey

>> >
>> > were would be a go outlet for a new hot water heater or parts?
>> >
>> > --
>> > *Thanks *
>> > *Bill Ezzell *
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > GMCnet mailing list
>> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>>
>
>
>
> --
> *Thanks *
> *Bill Ezzell *
>

--
*Thanks *
*Bill Ezzell *
 
You do not want / need to replace the standard electric water heater unless it is leaking somewhere. It is a lot of work to get it done. Electric
parts (the thermostat and heating element) are available from Home Depot or Jim Kanomata (Applied GMC). If think you need the whole heater, then
call Jim K. (Applied GMC).

Usually all that is wrong is a bad heating element or th heater is not turned on. Check for voltage at the element. If 120 volts is there and you
have no heat, then the element is bad.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Bill,

After you take out the little cabinet that holds the toilet paper the front bolts are not too bad. A ratcheting wrench is helpful. For the bolt way
in the back I did this.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/hot-water-heater-removal/p14895-rear-bolt-in-water-heater.html

The hole is drilled in long cubby behind the sofa in the back (at least on my layout).

I doubt that anyone would make the some bonehead mistake I did, but just a word of caution. Other then the drips, the biggest problem I had is that
after I removed the heater hose from the old preheater they were too short to reach the new one. So I had to splice in some new hose. Long story
short I used some cheap clamps not the splice and they gave up and I lost all my coolest, plus made a big mess.

Dan
 
I can get the parts for our heaters at Home Depot?

> You do not want / need to replace the standard electric water heater
> unless it is leaking somewhere. It is a lot of work to get it done.
> Electric
> parts (the thermostat and heating element) are available from Home Depot
> or Jim Kanomata (Applied GMC). If think you need the whole heater, then
> call Jim K. (Applied GMC).
>
> Usually all that is wrong is a bad heating element or th heater is not
> turned on. Check for voltage at the element. If 120 volts is there and you
> have no heat, then the element is bad.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>

--
*Thanks *
*Bill Ezzell *
 
I thank you for the information and the help.

> Bill,
>
> After you take out the little cabinet that holds the toilet paper the
> front bolts are not too bad. A ratcheting wrench is helpful. For the bolt
> way
> in the back I did this.
>
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/hot-water-heater-removal/p14895-rear-bolt-in-water-heater.html
>
> The hole is drilled in long cubby behind the sofa in the back (at least on
> my layout).
>
> I doubt that anyone would make the some bonehead mistake I did, but just a
> word of caution. Other then the drips, the biggest problem I had is that
> after I removed the heater hose from the old preheater they were too short
> to reach the new one. So I had to splice in some new hose. Long story
> short I used some cheap clamps not the splice and they gave up and I lost
> all my coolest, plus made a big mess.
>
> Dan
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>

--
*Thanks *
*Bill Ezzell *
 
>
> How did you get to all the bolts holding the old water heater.
>

You don’t say what year you have (that would be helpful information in your signature line).
If you have a Type 1 water heater you can find information on its removal from
the GMC Motorhomes International site.

www.gmcmi.come

then click on the red line “The GMC Motorhome”.
It will drop down to a menu and select “Technical Seminar Handouts”
Go to “Bathroom” and it has a paper on “Type 1 Water Heater Replacement”.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
 
I am sorry it is a 1978 Kingsley with a type 2 water heater

>

> >
> > How did you get to all the bolts holding the old water heater.
> >
>
> You don’t say what year you have (that would be helpful information in
> your signature line).
> If you have a Type 1 water heater you can find information on its removal
> from
> the GMC Motorhomes International site.
>
> www.gmcmi.come
>
> then click on the red line “The GMC Motorhome”.
> It will drop down to a menu and select “Technical Seminar Handouts”
> Go to “Bathroom” and it has a paper on “Type 1 Water Heater Replacement”.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>

--
*Thanks *
*Bill Ezzell *
 
It would be great if you could do a writeup on it so that the GMCMI files could cover both type 1 and 2 water heater removals

I also have a Type 2 but have never had to remove it.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>
> I am sorry it is a 1978 Kingsley with a type 2 water heater
>

>
>>

>>>
>>> How did you get to all the bolts holding the old water heater.
>>>
>>
>> You don’t say what year you have (that would be helpful information in
>> your signature line).
>> If you have a Type 1 water heater you can find information on its removal
>> from
>> the GMC Motorhomes International site.
>>
>> www.gmcmi.come
>>
>> then click on the red line “The GMC Motorhome”.
>> It will drop down to a menu and select “Technical Seminar Handouts”
>> Go to “Bathroom” and it has a paper on “Type 1 Water Heater Replacement”.
>>
>> Emery Stora
>> 77 Kingsley
>> Frederick, CO
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
>
>
>
> --
> *Thanks *
> *Bill Ezzell *
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
Well I guest I will have to see how this goes, did you say I could get part
at Home Depot, if so maybe I wouldn't have to remove the water heater just
to change the element or thermosat.

> It would be great if you could do a writeup on it so that the GMCMI files
> could cover both type 1 and 2 water heater removals
>
> I also have a Type 2 but have never had to remove it.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO

> >
> > I am sorry it is a 1978 Kingsley with a type 2 water heater
> >
> > On Tue, Apr 21, 2015 at 11:42 AM, Emery Stora

> >
> >>
> >>> On Apr 21, 2015, at 8:52 AM, william ezzell

> >>>
> >>> How did you get to all the bolts holding the old water heater.
> >>>
> >>
> >> You don’t say what year you have (that would be helpful information in
> >> your signature line).
> >> If you have a Type 1 water heater you can find information on its
> removal
> >> from
> >> the GMC Motorhomes International site.
> >>
> >> www.gmcmi.come
> >>
> >> then click on the red line “The GMC Motorhome”.
> >> It will drop down to a menu and select “Technical Seminar Handouts”
> >> Go to “Bathroom” and it has a paper on “Type 1 Water Heater
> Replacement”.
> >>
> >> Emery Stora
> >> 77 Kingsley
> >> Frederick, CO
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > *Thanks *
> > *Bill Ezzell *
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>

--
*Thanks *
*Bill Ezzell *
 
I have a Kingsley 78 type 2 water heater, can I get parts at Home Depot for
this heater.

> You do not want / need to replace the standard electric water heater
> unless it is leaking somewhere. It is a lot of work to get it done.
> Electric
> parts (the thermostat and heating element) are available from Home Depot
> or Jim Kanomata (Applied GMC). If think you need the whole heater, then
> call Jim K. (Applied GMC).
>
> Usually all that is wrong is a bad heating element or th heater is not
> turned on. Check for voltage at the element. If 120 volts is there and you
> have no heat, then the element is bad.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>

--
*Thanks *
*Bill Ezzell *
 
What parts do you need? The element just screws into the front and the thermostat mounts against the front. Either one is less than a 1/2 hour job.

What parts are broken? I'm still confused as to why you want to remove the heater. Is is leaking somewhere?
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
> I have a Kingsley 78 type 2 water heater, can I get parts at Home Depot for
> this heater.

I helped Randy Van Winkle work on his. It is a '77. The anode rod was bad. (Black hot water and rotten egg smell. Randy said Margie didn't like that
much!) We used an impact socket and tried an electric impact I had. It only does about 250lbs. We tapped and squirted WD. The next day we went to
Harbor Freight and got a 400 something lbs. impact. During all this we tapped on it, sprayed it with PB. Waited. No deal. On the second day (we had
other things we were working on) the nut part of the anode gave up.

We took it out. I am skinny and have little monkey hands and so I could get to the four bolts that hold the black frame in place. They were not tight
so a wife or kid/grand kid could possible get in there. Yes a ratcheting wrench was perfect. I don't think Randy could have gotten his arm to the back
corner. It took some patience and more when it came time to put the nuts and washers back on but I got the job done. (A magnet on a flex cable would
be handy because there is ample opportunity to need to fish out parts. I even found a new drain valve down in there.)

I wish we had taken a picture of the pipe wrench and cheater setup we used once we had the thing on the ground. Once the tank was out of the case we
had wrenches on the nut and the collar. It squealed every inch. Apparently the factory (or whoever) didn't bother with pipe dope or teflon. The anode
rod was reduced to just a wire and we even had a hard time getting it out.

Randy had opted to have a JimK stainless steel on the way when it looked like we were in trouble. (Did I mention Margie didn't like black hot water
and rotten egg smell)

The new tank was beautiful, fit and doesn't need an anode rod. So, he won't have to replace that puppy again.
--
'74 Eleganza, SE, Howell + EBL
Best Wishes,
George
 
It is not leaking, parts I may need are thermostat and element, can these
be replaced without removing the heater and can I get these parts at Home
Depot.

> What parts do you need? The element just screws into the front and the
> thermostat mounts against the front. Either one is less than a 1/2 hour
> job.
>
>
> What parts are broken? I'm still confused as to why you want to remove
> the heater. Is is leaking somewhere?
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>

--
*Thanks *
*Bill Ezzell *
 
> It is not leaking, parts I may need are thermostat and element, can these
> be replaced without removing the heater and can I get these parts at Home
> Depot.

George told my story with the Hot Water Heater. You can get the element at Home Depot. I would suggest getting the adapter for the round threaded
element because that is common (cheaper) element. Once you have the adapter installed, then it is easy to replace the element if you have any future
problems with it (like turning power on with an empty tank :) I'm not sure about getting the thermostat HD - are you sure it is bad?

I would also recommend replacing the anode rod. You can get those at an RV supply store (about $15) or order online. Those don't last too long and,
trust me, you don't want to experience the issues that a used up one causes. Your wife will not be a happy camper. I did not have any problems
replacing the element, but that anode rod can be a pain. See George's recount of our experience. When I returned home, my brother's '78 coach also
was having problems with bad water and sulfur smell. We use a 750 lbs impact wrench. I sprayed Kroil on the threads, banged on it with the impact
for a bit, let it sit for a couple of hours, more Kroil, banged on it in the tightening direction, then tried to loosen, more Kroil, more time, more
banging. By the end of the day, it came off. Just a bare wire was all that was left of the rod. Sure a lot better than pulling the tank out. And,
yes, an impact wrench will fit in there and get a good direct purchase on the anode nut. And cross your fingers that you don't round over the nut
edges before it comes loose.

I plan on replacing that rod every 2 or 3 years. Getting water from a lot different places across the country, you just don't know the mineral
content of the water. Doesn't take long for that rod to sacrifice itself.
--
Randy & Margie
'77 Eleganza II '403'
Battlefield, MO
 
You can find the parts at Home Depot and I even bought a thermostat at Ace Hardware once.

The original element is a 1000 watt 120 volts. This draws about 8.3 amps.
This is hard to find. You can find a 1500 watt 102 volt at home depot but that draws 12.5 amps.

If you use a 4000 watt 240 volts this will draw 8.3 amps and put out exactly the same heat as a 1000 watt 120 volt.
It is also cheaper and easier to find.
The heating element inside the 240 volt element is more durable and less inclined to burn out.

I suggest that you buy an adapter to adapt from the 4 bolts that hold the original element to a threaded fitting that the newer style heating elements thread into.
This makes it much easier to install the heating element.

Home Depot should have those adapters.

You don’t have to remove the tank to do any of this.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>
> It is not leaking, parts I may need are thermostat and element, can these
> be replaced without removing the heater and can I get these parts at Home
> Depot.
>

>
>> What parts do you need? The element just screws into the front and the
>> thermostat mounts against the front. Either one is less than a 1/2 hour
>> job.
>>
>>
>> What parts are broken? I'm still confused as to why you want to remove
>> the heater. Is is leaking somewhere?
>> --
>> Ken Burton - N9KB
>> 76 Palm Beach
>> Hebron, Indiana
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
>
>
>
> --
> *Thanks *
> *Bill Ezzell *
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
Do I have to drain the tank to change the element

> You can find the parts at Home Depot and I even bought a thermostat at Ace
> Hardware once.
>
> The original element is a 1000 watt 120 volts. This draws about 8.3 amps.
> This is hard to find. You can find a 1500 watt 102 volt at home depot but
> that draws 12.5 amps.
>
> If you use a 4000 watt 240 volts this will draw 8.3 amps and put out
> exactly the same heat as a 1000 watt 120 volt.
> It is also cheaper and easier to find.
> The heating element inside the 240 volt element is more durable and less
> inclined to burn out.
>
> I suggest that you buy an adapter to adapt from the 4 bolts that hold the
> original element to a threaded fitting that the newer style heating
> elements thread into.
> This makes it much easier to install the heating element.
>
> Home Depot should have those adapters.
>
> You don’t have to remove the tank to do any of this.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
>
>

> >
> > It is not leaking, parts I may need are thermostat and element, can these
> > be replaced without removing the heater and can I get these parts at Home
> > Depot.
> >

> >
> >> What parts do you need? The element just screws into the front and the
> >> thermostat mounts against the front. Either one is less than a 1/2 hour
> >> job.
> >>
> >>
> >> What parts are broken? I'm still confused as to why you want to remove
> >> the heater. Is is leaking somewhere?
> >> --
> >> Ken Burton - N9KB
> >> 76 Palm Beach
> >> Hebron, Indiana
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > *Thanks *
> > *Bill Ezzell *
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>

--
*Thanks *
*Bill Ezzell *
 
Not if you are real fast.
Jim Hupy

> Do I have to drain the tank to change the element
>

>
> > You can find the parts at Home Depot and I even bought a thermostat at
> Ace
> > Hardware once.
> >
> > The original element is a 1000 watt 120 volts. This draws about 8.3 amps.
> > This is hard to find. You can find a 1500 watt 102 volt at home depot
> but
> > that draws 12.5 amps.
> >
> > If you use a 4000 watt 240 volts this will draw 8.3 amps and put out
> > exactly the same heat as a 1000 watt 120 volt.
> > It is also cheaper and easier to find.
> > The heating element inside the 240 volt element is more durable and less
> > inclined to burn out.
> >
> > I suggest that you buy an adapter to adapt from the 4 bolts that hold the
> > original element to a threaded fitting that the newer style heating
> > elements thread into.
> > This makes it much easier to install the heating element.
> >
> > Home Depot should have those adapters.
> >
> > You don’t have to remove the tank to do any of this.
> >
> > Emery Stora
> > 77 Kingsley
> > Frederick, CO
> >
> >
> > > On Apr 21, 2015, at 2:24 PM, william ezzell

> > >
> > > It is not leaking, parts I may need are thermostat and element, can
> these
> > > be replaced without removing the heater and can I get these parts at
> Home
> > > Depot.
> > >

> > >
> > >> What parts do you need? The element just screws into the front and
> the
> > >> thermostat mounts against the front. Either one is less than a 1/2
> hour
> > >> job.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> What parts are broken? I'm still confused as to why you want to
> remove
> > >> the heater. Is is leaking somewhere?
> > >> --
> > >> Ken Burton - N9KB
> > >> 76 Palm Beach
> > >> Hebron, Indiana
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> GMCnet mailing list
> > >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > >> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > *Thanks *
> > > *Bill Ezzell *
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
>
>
>
> --
> *Thanks *
> *Bill Ezzell *
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>