Replacing Oil Lines with all Hose

[phil swanson]

Hello Bob Drewes,

I am attempting to follow your instructions you provided on
replacing the steel lines with all rubber as you covered in great detail
in your Email of Jan 17. I had a couple of questions about the
conversion however. Do you remember how much rubber line you needed to
purchase to do the job? Obviously it needs to not only cover the old
length of the rubber and the old steel line, but also enough to run it
along the frame rail and back to the radiator. If you made up the lines
yourself, do you remember how long you made each one?
Did you make up the lengths and install the fittings yourself or
is this something that Aeroquip had to do for you. Also what did you use
to anchor the hoses to the frame rail? I probably could use my old
elbows that go into the radiator but how do you get that old rubber out
of the old fittings. How do you install the hose ends to the fittings?
Maybe I am lacking a special tool? Any information would be greatly
appreciated. I have located my local Aeroquip dealer in the San Diego
area but have not gone there yet.

Thanks, Phil
Swanson

 

[bob drewes]

>replacing the steel lines with all rubber
>how much rubber line you needed
>install the fittings yourself or is this something that Aeroquip had to do

>anchor the hoses to the frame rail?
>How do you install the hose ends to the fittings?

Hello Phil;
I do not recall offhand the length of hose it requires to replace the
hose-steel line combination for the engine oil cooler hoses. With the right
front wheel well housing removed, you can easily use a tape and determine
the total length of hose needed. One rule is to always leave sufficient
slack for component movement, so as not to put undue stress on the
fittings, especially the one in the radiator tank.

I used electrical EMT clamps to fasten the hoses to the frame rail. These
are clamps used to fasten rigid electrical conduit, and come in various
sizes. Use a rubber grommet around the hose where the clamp will be, to
prevent chaffing. You can use a self tapping screw to fasten the clamp to
the frame, take note that there is a steel brake line in that area, I
believe.

When you contact the Aeroquip dealer, ask him for the booklet that shows
how to remove & replace the replaceable ends on this type of hose. All you
need is a vice, and a few wrenches, and a fine tooth hack saw. You will
note that there is two hex's on the hose ends. The hex that is on the
hardware that covers the hose, is one part of the two part hose end. The
hex that is closest to the threaded fitting that fastens into the radiator
tank, is the other part of the two part hose end. To disassemble this hose
end, place the steel hex part that covers the rubber hose, into a vice.
Using a wrench of the correct size, turn the hex on the free end, it will
be a narrow hex, to the left, or counter-clockwise, to remove the inside
part of the hose end. Remember, this part of the hose end has right-hand
threads, just as a common bolt. The end that covers the hose, is LEFT hand
thread. You can remove this part, once you have removed the inner part, by
clamping the hose in the vice, and turning CLOCKWISE, and this part will
remove itself from the hose. Follow the instructions in the booklet, as to
lubricating and such when re-installing the end on a new hose.

Be sure you hold the fitting that is soldered into the radiator with a
wrench while you tighten the male hose end fitting. I always use a small
dab of anti-seize compound on the THREADS ONLY of this male fitting, it
prevents it from galling while tightening, and makes it easier to remove
the next time. Placing this on the thread part only has no effect on
sealing, as it is the 45* taper that does the sealing.

I hope this will help you in your project.
Bob D.