Replacing Frame Rails

[CLawson]

I need to replace the frame rails and am considering doing the job myself.
Replacing everything from the front frame back would be ideal but beyond my capabilities.

Section 2 of the maintenance manual is a start but not extremely detailed.
Are there any instructions or checklists available?
People I could discuss with?

I have a new set of rails from Tom Hampton that appear to be much stronger than the originals.

The bogie sub-frame has one rust threw area as well.
The coach has drum brakes in the back with quad air bags.
The passenger side bogie arms will probably need to be straightened as well.
Both fuel tanks have previously been dropped, cleaned, and coated.

I would appreciate any advice for scoping out and preparing for such a project, especially safely raising and supporting the coach to work under it.

thanks!

--
Cary Lawson
1975 Glenbrook, 455, Rochester carb
Wellington, Ohio

 

[powwerjon]

Cary,
Probably the only shop close to you is Bob Stone shop in Carbondale, IL as
he did a frame replacement early last year. Bob's phone# is 618 964-9124
and is available by phone only as he does not do email.

The man who created the replacement frames and has done a large number is
Dan Stucky and he is located in Canada and he now farms out the frame
installations to another Canadian. He can give you that information.

Dan website: http://www.gmcmotorhomemarketplace.com/stuckey/
Depending on how much talent that l you have it can be somewhat
overwhelming.

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
TZE Zone Restorations
78 Buskirk Custom 29.5' Stretch
75 Avion (Under going Frame up Restoration)

On Fri, Mar 20, 2020 at 4:03 AM Cary Lawson via Gmclist <

> I need to replace the frame rails and am considering doing the job myself.
> Replacing everything from the front frame back would be ideal but beyond
> my capabilities.
>
> Section 2 of the maintenance manual is a start but not extremely detailed.
> Are there any instructions or checklists available?
> People I could discuss with?
>
> I have a new set of rails from Tom Hampton that appear to be much stronger
> than the originals.
>
> The bogie sub-frame has one rust threw area as well.
> The coach has drum brakes in the back with quad air bags.
> The passenger side bogie arms will probably need to be straightened as
> well.
> Both fuel tanks have previously been dropped, cleaned, and coated.
>
> I would appreciate any advice for scoping out and preparing for such a
> project, especially safely raising and supporting the coach to work under
> it.
>
> thanks!
>
> --
> Cary Lawson
> 1975 Glenbrook, 455, Rochester carb
> Wellington, Ohio
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[emerystora]

If Tom Hampton sold you the rails I would think he would have some instructions availabile

Emery Stora

>
> Cary,
> Probably the only shop close to you is Bob Stone shop in Carbondale, IL as
> he did a frame replacement early last year. Bob's phone# is 618 964-9124
> and is available by phone only as he does not do email.
>
> The man who created the replacement frames and has done a large number is
> Dan Stucky and he is located in Canada and he now farms out the frame
> installations to another Canadian. He can give you that information.
>
> Dan website: http://www.gmcmotorhomemarketplace.com/stuckey/
> Depending on how much talent that l you have it can be somewhat
> overwhelming.
>
> J.R. Wright
> GMC Great Laker
> GMCGL Tech Editor
> GMC Eastern States
> GMCMHI
> TZE Zone Restorations
> 78 Buskirk Custom 29.5' Stretch
> 75 Avion (Under going Frame up Restoration)
>
>
>
>> On Fri, Mar 20, 2020 at 4:03 AM Cary Lawson via Gmclist <

>>
>> I need to replace the frame rails and am considering doing the job myself.
>> Replacing everything from the front frame back would be ideal but beyond
>> my capabilities.
>>
>> Section 2 of the maintenance manual is a start but not extremely detailed.
>> Are there any instructions or checklists available?
>> People I could discuss with?
>>
>> I have a new set of rails from Tom Hampton that appear to be much stronger
>> than the originals.
>>
>> The bogie sub-frame has one rust threw area as well.
>> The coach has drum brakes in the back with quad air bags.
>> The passenger side bogie arms will probably need to be straightened as
>> well.
>> Both fuel tanks have previously been dropped, cleaned, and coated.
>>
>> I would appreciate any advice for scoping out and preparing for such a
>> project, especially safely raising and supporting the coach to work under
>> it.
>>
>> thanks!
>>
>> --
>> Cary Lawson
>> 1975 Glenbrook, 455, Rochester carb
>> Wellington, Ohio
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Rich Kinas]

A great undertaking and I applaud your efforts. Something to check before
you begin, is with my 76 Eleganza II my rails are in almost perfect
condition, just some very light surface rust here and there. However I just
rebuilt the entire front end, and while everything was off the coach, I
cleaned up the front member again not much to clean up...at least on the
outside. On the oval hole (used to measure frame height) I inserted my
finger just to feel the inside of the rails, as was surprised what I found.
As soon as i stuck my finger in it hit a rust pile and I mean a pile. I
went into the shop and pulled out my bolt picker upper magnet and inserted
it into the hole repeatedly, each time removing all the attached rust. The
rust varied in size from a find dust to some larger flakes the size of
dimes. I kept this up for about an hour and I had filled about two 10 oz
glasses. I then blew out what left that I could and then put some Ospho
into a squirt bottle and sprayed the inside as best as I could.

So the moral of the story is that check your front frame rail it may be in
worse shape than you think.

Rich

On Fri, Mar 20, 2020 at 7:03 AM Cary Lawson via Gmclist <

> I need to replace the frame rails and am considering doing the job myself.
> Replacing everything from the front frame back would be ideal but beyond
> my capabilities.
>
> Section 2 of the maintenance manual is a start but not extremely detailed.
> Are there any instructions or checklists available?
> People I could discuss with?
>
> I have a new set of rails from Tom Hampton that appear to be much stronger
> than the originals.
>
> The bogie sub-frame has one rust threw area as well.
> The coach has drum brakes in the back with quad air bags.
> The passenger side bogie arms will probably need to be straightened as
> well.
> Both fuel tanks have previously been dropped, cleaned, and coated.
>
> I would appreciate any advice for scoping out and preparing for such a
> project, especially safely raising and supporting the coach to work under
> it.
>
> thanks!
>
> --
> Cary Lawson
> 1975 Glenbrook, 455, Rochester carb
> Wellington, Ohio
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Irish Rogue]

Another contact for frame rail replacement is Dave Marchiando of Sheridan, IL. I know he has done it on at least one and maybe more coaches.
He does not do e mails - his phone # is
815-Six 9 five-five 08 four.
Mike/The Corvair a holic

Sent from my iPhone

>
> A great undertaking and I applaud your efforts. Something to check before
> you begin, is with my 76 Eleganza II my rails are in almost perfect
> condition, just some very light surface rust here and there. However I just
> rebuilt the entire front end, and while everything was off the coach, I
> cleaned up the front member again not much to clean up...at least on the
> outside. On the oval hole (used to measure frame height) I inserted my
> finger just to feel the inside of the rails, as was surprised what I found.
> As soon as i stuck my finger in it hit a rust pile and I mean a pile. I
> went into the shop and pulled out my bolt picker upper magnet and inserted
> it into the hole repeatedly, each time removing all the attached rust. The
> rust varied in size from a find dust to some larger flakes the size of
> dimes. I kept this up for about an hour and I had filled about two 10 oz
> glasses. I then blew out what left that I could and then put some Ospho
> into a squirt bottle and sprayed the inside as best as I could.
>
> So the moral of the story is that check your front frame rail it may be in
> worse shape than you think.
>
> Rich
>
> On Fri, Mar 20, 2020 at 7:03 AM Cary Lawson via Gmclist <

>
>> I need to replace the frame rails and am considering doing the job myself.
>> Replacing everything from the front frame back would be ideal but beyond
>> my capabilities.
>>
>> Section 2 of the maintenance manual is a start but not extremely detailed.
>> Are there any instructions or checklists available?
>> People I could discuss with?
>>
>> I have a new set of rails from Tom Hampton that appear to be much stronger
>> than the originals.
>>
>> The bogie sub-frame has one rust threw area as well.
>> The coach has drum brakes in the back with quad air bags.
>> The passenger side bogie arms will probably need to be straightened as
>> well.
>> Both fuel tanks have previously been dropped, cleaned, and coated.
>>
>> I would appreciate any advice for scoping out and preparing for such a
>> project, especially safely raising and supporting the coach to work under
>> it.
>>
>> thanks!
>>
>> --
>> Cary Lawson
>> 1975 Glenbrook, 455, Rochester carb
>> Wellington, Ohio
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[LarryW]

Maybe this is a good place to mention what I do to my frame rails. My frame rails are in very good condition in spite of living in the salted road
capital of the world (Wisconsin) Every year during the summer I drive my coach up on a set of 8" ramps. I then place strips of cardboard on the
driveway under the frame rails in the rear where the frame is doubled up at the boggies. I fill several squirt cans with used ATF, saved from my last
trans fluid change. I then squirt the hell out of the frame rails, especially where the frame rails are sandwiched together. Squirt as much as I can
between the layers. The cardboard then soaks up the drippings. I have found that Trans fluid is quite tenacious stuff coating the metal frame. It
easily lasts for a full year until I can get at it again. Looks like I have a bad leak somewhere but underneath, who cares. JWID
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

 

[hal stclair]

> Maybe this is a good place to mention what I do to my frame rails. My frame rails are in very good condition in spite of living in the salted road
> capital of the world (Wisconsin) Every year during the summer I drive my coach up on a set of 8" ramps. I then place strips of cardboard on the
> driveway under the frame rails in the rear where the frame is doubled up at the boggies. I fill several squirt cans with used ATF, saved from my
> last trans fluid change. I then squirt the hell out of the frame rails, especially where the frame rails are sandwiched together. Squirt as much as
> I can between the layers. The cardboard then soaks up the drippings. I have found that Trans fluid is quite tenacious stuff coating the metal frame.
> It easily lasts for a full year until I can get at it again. Looks like I have a bad leak somewhere but underneath, who cares. JWID

With all the leaks under some of these old gals their frames should be good for a long, long time :lol:

Hal
--
1977 Royale 101348,

1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,

1975 Eleganza II, 101230,

1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,

Rio Rancho, NM

 

[LarryW]

> > Maybe this is a good place to mention what I do to my frame rails. My frame rails are in very good condition in spite of living in the salted
> > road capital of the world (Wisconsin) Every year during the summer I drive my coach up on a set of 8" ramps. I then place strips of cardboard on
> > the driveway under the frame rails in the rear where the frame is doubled up at the boggies. I fill several squirt cans with used ATF, saved from
> > my last trans fluid change. I then squirt the hell out of the frame rails, especially where the frame rails are sandwiched together. Squirt as
> > much as I can between the layers. The cardboard then soaks up the drippings. I have found that Trans fluid is quite tenacious stuff coating the
> > metal frame. It easily lasts for a full year until I can get at it again. Looks like I have a bad leak somewhere but underneath, who cares. JWID
>
> With all the leaks under some of these old gals their frames should be good for a long, long time :lol:
>
> Hal

Tiz true! A while back on one of my past engines, I gave up trying to stop a front crank seal leak and began referring to it as my "under carriage
anti-rust system"! Worked pretty good until I got an engine the didn't leak there. :d JWID
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

 

[roy keen]

Larry if you ever have a problem with that front crank seal leaking again . When you replace it use a high temperature seal they are rated at 350
degrees rather then 250 degrees the original ones are rated at. My engine oil had no problem reaching into the low 200 to 250 degrees climbing steep
mountain grades in the summer . I never had an oil leak in the front seal again when I used the high temp seal changing them is a pain with the motor
in place. Your Cadillac may be a different seal however.
--
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook

 

[LarryW]

> Larry if you ever have a problem with that front crank seal leaking again . When you replace it use a high temperature seal they are rated at 350
> degrees rather then 250 degrees the original ones are rated at. My engine oil had no problem reaching into the low 200 to 250 degrees climbing steep
> mountain grades in the summer . I never had an oil leak in the front seal again when I used the high temp seal changing them is a pain with the
> motor in place. Your Cadillac may be a different seal however.

Roy, Thanks for that tip. Next time I have that leak, I'll check it out.

--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

 

[CLawson]

Thanks everyone for your helpful recommendations.
I will be calling some of the contacts to work out my next steps.

Your input, as always, is much appreciated!
--
Cary Lawson
1975 Glenbrook, 455, Rochester carb
Wellington, Ohio