Replacement wire type for nichrome wire

Ok, zero watts when running, but not when you have the key on and not running right?
Always design for worst case
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of gene Fisher
Sent: Wednesday, October 3, 2018 8:52 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Replacement wire type for nichrome wire

> What is this
>
> Gene should also look on Ebay for anti-feedback for 10, 12, 17 and 27SI.
>

Gene should also look on Ebay for anti-feedback for 10, 12, 17 and 27SI
>

>
>
Over the past few months I have been working on alternative ignition
designs for our Onan generators. During my tenure as a GMC owner I have
suffered the failure of two Pertronix 1181 modules mounted in the blower
housing scroll - one due to a fatigue failure of the module’s aluminum
mounting tab due to wind buffeting - and the other due to a flywheel strike
where the flywheel magnet somehow impacted the module’s face for at least
several revolutions. These two events occurred with super-rigid mounting
arrangements that I made myself - I was NOT using the C-channel mounting
kit commonly found in the GMC community. Photo albums of these two:

http://www.jcmco.com/gallery/Pertronix<
http://www.jcmco.com/gallery/Pertronix> and
http://www.jcmco.com/gallery/PertronixModII<
http://www.jcmco.com/gallery/PertronixModII>

So I decided to experiment with something different…I mounted the module on
the outside of the generator’s bellhousing and have it being triggered by a
magnet embedded in an aluminum tonewheel:

http://www.jcmco.com/gallery/Pertronix-ModIII<
http://www.jcmco.com/gallery/Pertronix-ModIII>

This produced very good results - nearly identical to when the module is
mounted inside the blower scroll and triggered by a flywheel magnet.
However, during testing I made the observation that the ignition coil was
running very hot and was uncomfortable to touch even after very short
amounts of runtime. I determined that the Pertronix 1181 module that people
have recommended for our Onans was keeping the coil energized for about 355
degrees of rotation of the crankshaft - and only dropped its output for a
few milliseconds as the magnet went by the module at which time the spark
plugs fired. This is contrasted with the 140 degrees per revolution which
the OEM breaker points used as a coil dwell time. In other words, the
Pertronix 1181 causes current to flow in the coil primary for almost three
times as long as the original Onan design. No wonder the coil is getting so
hot… once the magnetic field builds up in the core of the coil the
remaining current flow produces nothing but heat. I wrote to Pertronix tech
support for advice and they confirmed that the 1181 is not the right module
for this application. Their words:

"You really should be using what we call a latching Ignitor module. This
module takes two magnets to trigger the unit. One to turn it "ON" then one
to turn it "OFF" to fire. This allows you to control the charge time of the
coil. We use this module on all our applications that have less then 4
cylinders. This is so we don't overheat the coil and don't over heat the
Ignitor module. … The part number I would recommend to modify would be part
number: 1121”

At that point I bought an 1121 and modified my mount and magnet wheel for
it: http://www.jcmco.com/gallery/PertronixModIV <
http://www.jcmco.com/gallery/PertronixModIV>

The 1121 module has been in service on my Onan for 20 hours of runtime so
far and has worked flawlessly. Just as with the 1181 module, the 1121
produces repeatable and precise spark timing but - unlike the 1181 - the
1121 produces no appreciable heating of the ignition coil. Having worked 35
years in an electronics career I know quite

>
>
>

>

>> >
>> > Then I started on the APC. He went to his parts bin and brought out a
>> 2" long pair of 2-wire terminals with a diode in one of the wires -- the
>> > equivalent of the APC.
>> > "Been selling them for YEARS -- cost $3.81." I didn't get a part
>> number, but you may want to reconsider fabricating them, Gene.
>> >
>> > He also reminded me of the fact that when the alternator's producing
>> power,
>> > ALL THREE of its terminals are at output voltage. I guess I forgot
>> that
>> > when I oversized and air stream located my resistor. :)
>> >
>> > Ken "EE EDUCATED -- NOT experienced" H.
>>
>> Gene should also look on Ebay for anti-feedback for 10, 12, 17 and 27SI.
>>
>> Matt ONP at the casino in Erie PA.
>> --
>> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
>> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
>> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
>> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
> --
> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
> -------
> http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
> Alternator Protection Cable
> http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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I believe that he means that if you google “anti-feedback for 10, 12, 17 and 27SI” you will find things that appear to be similar to your APC

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>
> anti-feedback for 10, 12, 17 and 27SI.
 
I'll have to look, but I don't think key on engine not running is going to make the thing dissipate however many Watts we might agree on. If it did,
we would see beaucoup melted wiring harnesses, would we not?? And, key on not running, we'd be looking at 12, not6 14 or 15.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Okay I got a hundred watt 10 Ohm resistor which has a metal case an 14 gauge wire. mounted the resistor to the aluminum plate that the fuse box mounts
to and soldered all the leads. started the engine and immediately produced voltage and as the battery was charging the voltage dropped down so I know
the regulator in the alternator is good. Resistor never got hot. thanks everybody for your help.
--
'78 Palm Beach car nut & new to RV'ing
26 ft. 403 OEM wheels, 2 ACs, Pod, ladder, macerator
On FaceBook as David Martin
585-953-53OO call or text
 
David,

I hope you installed the APC, or an equivalent diode, 'cause if not, you're
still at risk of catastrophic damage if the alternator has an internal
failure putting 200+ vac on that line.

Ken H.

> Okay I got a hundred watt 10 Ohm resistor which has a metal case an 14
> gauge wire. mounted the resistor to the aluminum plate that the fuse box
> mounts
> to and soldered all the leads. started the engine and immediately
> produced voltage and as the battery was charging the voltage dropped down
> so I know
> the regulator in the alternator is good. Resistor never got hot. thanks
> everybody for your help.
> --
> '78 Palm Beach car nut & new to RV'ing
> 26 ft. 403 OEM wheels, 2 ACs, Pod, ladder, macerator
> On FaceBook as David Martin
> 585-953-53OO call or text
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Credit where it’s due—Ken suggested it when we were seeking “something that
would work until you get home”.

That was my alternator-trouble trip. The contacts on the alternator’s
output wire had melted and were intermittent, and there was also trouble in
the big connector on the steering column (which I discovered on the way
home). I had wired a battery backwards for a few seconds—one of my dumber
mistakes. In the course of troubleshooting why the alternator wouldn’t
charge, we replaced the nichrome wire with the light bulb. But we also had
one episode of a runaway alternator during all that. (I’ve always had an
APC since my first month of ownership).

The new alternator we installed failed on the way home, and I ended up
driving 300 miles running the generator and powering the chassis with the
converter. Autozone’s replacement for that one is still in the coach.

Rick “a cascade of little faults from a single large stress” Denney

> I like Rick Denny's idea of using a 1156 tail light bulb as a nichrome
> wire replacement.
>
> Self limiting, self fusing and it's its own indicator. Replacements
> available anywhere.
>
> --
> Bruce Hislop
> ON Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
>
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>
--
Rick Denney
73 x-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Off-list email to rick at rickdenney dot com
 
Actually, since the alternator warning light is basically in parallel with the nichrome wire, you could just that light as the excitation current.

The manual says its a 161 bulb which comes up as 2.9watts @ 14V = about 70 ohms. So the indicator bulb is supplying more current than the infamous
100 ohm resistor. The 100ohm resistor in parallel with the indicator bulb works out to 41 ohms. Changing the bulb to a #168 would be 40 ohms on its
own. So the #168 bulb would be equivalent to running the OEM 161 indicator bulb with a 100 ohm resistor in place of the nichrome wire. Still might be
slow to get the alternator started.

10 ohm resistor or the 1156 bulb is the way to go.

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
It is not a 100 ohm resistor. It is 10.0 ohm. Blow up the wiring diagram a lot and carefully look and you will see a decimal point. A 100 ohm will
work. So will a light bulb. However it may take a while for the alternator to come up on voltage. As was stated when the alternator is working
there is no current flow. 100 watt resistor is massive overkill. A 5 would be plenty. The calculations to determine that 100 watt value are extra
safe but do not take into account the internal resistance for that circuit that is inside the alternator.
--
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
 
Steve, the tail light bulb I used is nominally 27 Watts—about six ohms.

And there is no penalty for using a resistor with a power rating higher
than needed, though there is definitely a penalty for using one lower than
needed.

Rick “who just found the resistor he bought to replace the light bulb—15
ohm 25 watt” Denney

On Tue, Oct 9, 2018 at 10:03 AM Steve Southworth
wrote:

> It is not a 100 ohm resistor. It is 10.0 ohm. Blow up the wiring diagram
> a lot and carefully look and you will see a decimal point. A 100 ohm will
> work. So will a light bulb. However it may take a while for the
> alternator to come up on voltage. As was stated when the alternator is
> working
> there is no current flow. 100 watt resistor is massive overkill. A 5
> would be plenty. The calculations to determine that 100 watt value are
> extra
> safe but do not take into account the internal resistance for that circuit
> that is inside the alternator.
> --
> Steve Southworth
> 1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
> 1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
> Palmyra WI
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Rick Denney
73 x-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Off-list email to rick at rickdenney dot com