Replacement Air Compressor Switch (reply)

mark grady

New member
May 2, 1998
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Patrick --

> The one that came on mine looks like it belongs in a
> well-house.

Penn controls, Goshen, IN probably had 90% of the market share for these
types of controls. They also made water pump switches. My aunt probably made
or inspected the one you've got. She worked that line for 30 years. Also,
Mrs. Penn was my Sunday school teacher.

> I found a small pressure switch(looks like a gauge sending
> unit) which is set for 80psi on and 115 psi off for $19.

{snip} Looks cool, and the price is right.

>I like the fact the the switch is small and sealed, but the one
>disadvantage I see is the lack of an unloader. Is this really a
>necessity?

I'm not an air systems engineer, so just for what it's worth... air pressure
controls like this were targeted for AC cap start split phase motors that
have low starting torque. The control would unload the residual head
pressure and let the motor start will less of a static load.

The GMC uses a DC brush style motor with nearly constant torque
characteristics. Shouldn't be a problem. The motor pulls the load at 120#
steady state, so starting at 80 is a breeze.

Also, think about this scenario:

You get in your coach, turn on the key. If the EL control is in 'auto', the
compressor starts running, building head pressure. You turn the key to
start, and the ignition switch cuts power to the compressor. The pressure
switch on the EL system doesn't unload the head pressure.

You crank the engine, then release the ignition key to the run position. The
compressor motor starts right back up under full head pressure. This isn't
any different a condition than your new switch with no unload capability.

If you're still concerned, make sure you've got a good one way valve to hold
pressure in the air storage tank and put (or make) a small leak in the line
between the compressor and the one way valve. It will "weep' some pressure
when the compressor is running, but will also unload the residual head
pressure when it stops. The one way valve holds the pressure in the storage
tank.

Just some thoughts.

Mark Grady
'77 K
N Webster, IN
mgrady
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Grady [mailto:mgrady]
Sent: Friday, November 20, 1998 9:17 AM
To: gmcmotorhome
Subject: Replacement Air Compressor Switch (reply)

Patrick --

> The one that came on mine looks like it belongs in a
> well-house.

Penn controls, Goshen, IN probably had 90% of the market share for these
types of controls. They also made water pump switches. My aunt probably made
or inspected the one you've got. She worked that line for 30 years. Also,
Mrs. Penn was my Sunday school teacher.

> I found a small pressure switch(looks like a gauge sending
> unit) which is set for 80psi on and 115 psi off for $19.

{snip} Looks cool, and the price is right.

>I like the fact the the switch is small and sealed, but the one
>disadvantage I see is the lack of an unloader. Is this really a
>necessity?

I'm not an air systems engineer, so just for what it's worth... air pressure
controls like this were targeted for AC cap start split phase motors that
have low starting torque. The control would unload the residual head
pressure and let the motor start will less of a static load.

The GMC uses a DC brush style motor with nearly constant torque
characteristics. Shouldn't be a problem. The motor pulls the load at 120#
steady state, so starting at 80 is a breeze.

Also, think about this scenario:

You get in your coach, turn on the key. If the EL control is in 'auto', the
compressor starts running, building head pressure. You turn the key to
start, and the ignition switch cuts power to the compressor. The pressure
switch on the EL system doesn't unload the head pressure.

You crank the engine, then release the ignition key to the run position. The
compressor motor starts right back up under full head pressure. This isn't
any different a condition than your new switch with no unload capability.

If you're still concerned, make sure you've got a good one way valve to hold
pressure in the air storage tank and put (or make) a small leak in the line
between the compressor and the one way valve. It will "weep' some pressure
when the compressor is running, but will also unload the residual head
pressure when it stops. The one way valve holds the pressure in the storage
tank.

Just some thoughts.

Mark Grady
'77 K
N Webster, IN
mgrady
 
>
> > I found a small pressure switch(looks like a gauge sending
> > unit) which is set for 80psi on and 115 psi off for $19.
>
> {snip} Looks cool, and the price is right.

Yeh - I'm a sucker for "cute".

> >I like the fact the the switch is small and sealed, but the one
> >disadvantage I see is the lack of an unloader. Is this really a
> >necessity?
>
> I'm not an air systems engineer, so just for what it's worth... air
> pressure controls like this were targeted for AC cap start split
> phase motors

Good examples - I've got the original "Power Level", but, as soon as the
accessory circuit comes alive, the compressor's running if the tank's
down(which has been most of the time lately). It also might not be a
bad idea to stick a relay in the compressor circuit(need to look at the
wiring diagram again). Should raise the voltage that the compressor
sees and reduce the current running through the ignition switch.

Thanks Mark!
Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patri63

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
I have rebuilt the compressor system after driving cross country without benefit
of an operating compressor. I now have two (2) Dana compressors both feeding
the "wet tank". Each compressor feeds through a water extractor filter
supplied by Jim Bounds, then through Genie unloader & Check valves (Grainger
5A703 $7.23) and into the wet tank (which is no longer "wet"). From the tank
the air goes to the manifold. On the manifold is a pressure switch to operate a
solenoid which operates the compressors. The pressure switch is Grainger 3X683
($16.26) which is adjustable from 35-150 psi and preset at 95/125. Just to top
things off I installed a pressure releif valve, Grainger 5A709 ($5.59) which
pops off at 150 I used a solenoid to operate the compressors; the original
compressor wire now closes the solenoid which provides 12V via 8ga wire through
individul 15A fuses to the compressors. I really noted a difference in how even
the a single compressor operates on the 8ga service. For flexible connections
from the compressors and from the tank to the manifold I have used 3/8" nylon
reinforced poly tubing with a stainless mesh wrap. These pigtails are commonly
sold as toilet and sing supply tubes in any plumbing store. They work great and
have a hi-tech look too. Just to top things off (no more trips with out air!!)
i've ordered Jim Bounds air bag valves which isolate each air bag.
Gary
'77 Kingsley
North Bend, Oregon Coast

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Grady [mailto:mgrady]
> Sent: Friday, November 20, 1998 9:17 AM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: Replacement Air Compressor Switch (reply)
>
> Patrick --
>
> > The one that came on mine looks like it belongs in a
> > well-house.
>
>