repair of fresh water tank

[thomas g. warner]

I am still doing general repairs on my 1976 palmbeach in preparation for
summer trips, and just tackled the fresh water system. It would pump only
sporadically and lots of air. Removed the tank after many expletives (bolts
and monting straps appeared to never have been removed since manufacture and
rusty). Had to make a curved wrench to get at the nuts. Found that the
tank had a loose fitting on the output of the tank (a molded in brass
fitting). After much tugging and turning got it out only to find that there
was a slight crack on the inside of the hole. Someone else in times past had
a leak and did not hold the cast in brass fitting from turning while they
attempted to tighten the adapter to hose fitting. Turned out to be a $256
lesson (price of the new tank from cinnabar). Have already ordered the tank
but wonder if there is anyway to repair these tanks. Any ideas?

Also the tank has 4 holes(all the way thru)along the top front of the tank
exactly where the screws for the plywood paneling penetrate from the
aluminum angle that secures the seat above. Are they original??? Seems
like they would leak when water sloshes around. They are very cleanly
drilled so appear to be original. Anyone else have similar holes?

 

[henderson]

RE repair of a water tank: you might try a thermo plastic welder...look in
the Yellow pages under "plastics-fabrication"

Had the cracks on the inside drivers side panal of the coach repaired that
way; it was ABS.

The black water tank on my 23' Birchaven is also ABS; was able to repair a
small leak using a purchased repair kit.

If the fresh water tank is not ABS, but polyethylene, a plastic welder
should be able repair that too.

Cheaper than buying a new one!

Tom - Houston

 

[john nepper jr.]

>
> RE repair of a water tank: you might try a thermo plastic welder...look in
> the Yellow pages under "plastics-fabrication"
>
> Had the cracks on the inside drivers side panal of the coach repaired that
> way; it was ABS.
>
> The black water tank on my 23' Birchaven is also ABS; was able to repair a
> small leak using a purchased repair kit.
>
> If the fresh water tank is not ABS, but polyethylene, a plastic welder
> should be able repair that too.
>
> Cheaper than buying a new one!
>
> Tom - Houston

Finally a subject that a new GMC'er can reply to:

I'm in the plastic business and have a Drader Plastic welder ($3,000).
It works somewhat like a wire-feed welder, anyway... My watertank was
cracked in my '76 Palm Beach when I adopted her in September of '97. I
considered welding it but decided that a new one # $245 might be the
best bet. All the trouble of replacing it wasn't worth having a leak in
a weld (most welds are suspect when watertightness is desired) and
having to do it all over again. Welding is great for non critical
parts.

This is just what I did for your info...

Thanks, John

 

[thomas g. warner]

Thanks for the info john. I came to the same conclusion but was looking for
alternatives.

>>
>> RE repair of a water tank: you might try a thermo plastic welder...look in
>> the Yellow pages under "plastics-fabrication"
>>
>> Had the cracks on the inside drivers side panal of the coach repaired that
>> way; it was ABS.
>>
>> The black water tank on my 23' Birchaven is also ABS; was able to repair a
>> small leak using a purchased repair kit.
>>
>> If the fresh water tank is not ABS, but polyethylene, a plastic welder
>> should be able repair that too.
>>
>> Cheaper than buying a new one!
>>
>> Tom - Houston
>
>Finally a subject that a new GMC'er can reply to:
>
>I'm in the plastic business and have a Drader Plastic welder ($3,000).
>It works somewhat like a wire-feed welder, anyway... My watertank was
>cracked in my '76 Palm Beach when I adopted her in September of '97. I
>considered welding it but decided that a new one # $245 might be the
>best bet. All the trouble of replacing it wasn't worth having a leak in
>a weld (most welds are suspect when watertightness is desired) and
>having to do it all over again. Welding is great for non critical
>parts.
>
>This is just what I did for your info...
>
>Thanks, John
>
>