I'm not happy about not being able to say that the backside of these baffles are 100% PERFECTLY clean for the rebuild of this 403. This 403 oil pan has some rust on the inside. I've just never run into this before. If there is contamination inside the baffles. There's just no way to get it out using normal block cleaning methods. So has anyone removed these baffles for cleaning? Then reinstall. As I've said. I get real anal over cleanliness on engine assembly. When I assemble an engine. My shop that I keep our GMC in. I turn on it's air filtration system 12 hours before assembly. Then do all assembly with paper coveralls, and on white paper. I've never lost a bottom end of any race engines/ driver I've built. This cleanliness just pays off. Bob Dnahugh
Removing Valve cover/ oil pan baffles
- Thread starter Bob Dunahugh
- Start date
Probably spot-welded together...don't know that you will be successful at separating them intact. Reassembly could also result in weld spatter in
places you can't get to afterward. Maybe a long dip in diesel fuel and ATF will clean stuff out of those areas, but if you are really going for the
cleanest parts it would make sense to put on some brand-new aftermarket covers, possibly in chrome.
--
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
places you can't get to afterward. Maybe a long dip in diesel fuel and ATF will clean stuff out of those areas, but if you are really going for the
cleanest parts it would make sense to put on some brand-new aftermarket covers, possibly in chrome.
--
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
For rust removing, try cleaning vinegar and a long soak. Helps in those unreachable areas. Lemon scented is easier on your nose.
Tom
--
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
Tom
--
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
My Eldorado pan had a baffle in the bottom of the front sump. I cut the
inside of the spot welds and got everything clean. Then we
TIG welded the baffle back in. No weld spatter and has been good for eleven
years.
Gary Kosier
77PB w/500Cad
Newark, Ohio
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Terry"
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2018 10:59 AM
To:
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Removing Valve cover/ oil pan baffles
> Probably spot-welded together...don't know that you will be successful at
> separating them intact. Reassembly could also result in weld spatter in
> places you can't get to afterward. Maybe a long dip in diesel fuel and ATF
> will clean stuff out of those areas, but if you are really going for the
> cleanest parts it would make sense to put on some brand-new aftermarket
> covers, possibly in chrome.
> --
> Terry Kelpien
>
> ASE Master Technician
>
> 73 Glacier 260
>
> Smithfield, Va.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
inside of the spot welds and got everything clean. Then we
TIG welded the baffle back in. No weld spatter and has been good for eleven
years.
Gary Kosier
77PB w/500Cad
Newark, Ohio
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Terry"
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2018 10:59 AM
To:
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Removing Valve cover/ oil pan baffles
> Probably spot-welded together...don't know that you will be successful at
> separating them intact. Reassembly could also result in weld spatter in
> places you can't get to afterward. Maybe a long dip in diesel fuel and ATF
> will clean stuff out of those areas, but if you are really going for the
> cleanest parts it would make sense to put on some brand-new aftermarket
> covers, possibly in chrome.
> --
> Terry Kelpien
>
> ASE Master Technician
>
> 73 Glacier 260
>
> Smithfield, Va.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
I've never found aftermarket covers with baffles.
Ken H.
...If you are really going for the cleanest parts it would make sense to
put on some brand-new aftermarket covers, possibly in chrome.
...
Ken H.
...If you are really going for the cleanest parts it would make sense to
put on some brand-new aftermarket covers, possibly in chrome.
...
I concur with Ken Henderson. Most of the time, aftermarket valve covers do
not come with breathers or baffles, just holes that don't fit OEM grommets
very well.
As for the oil pan windage shields, the only way I have used is to
grind or drill out the spot welds, clean religiously, then either spot
weld or button weld them back in with a wire feeder. Don't leave them out.
The factory would not have put them there without good reason.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
> I've never found aftermarket covers with baffles.
>
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> ...If you are really going for the cleanest parts it would make sense to
> put on some brand-new aftermarket covers, possibly in chrome.
> ...
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
not come with breathers or baffles, just holes that don't fit OEM grommets
very well.
As for the oil pan windage shields, the only way I have used is to
grind or drill out the spot welds, clean religiously, then either spot
weld or button weld them back in with a wire feeder. Don't leave them out.
The factory would not have put them there without good reason.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
> I've never found aftermarket covers with baffles.
>
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> ...If you are really going for the cleanest parts it would make sense to
> put on some brand-new aftermarket covers, possibly in chrome.
> ...
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
The more recent ones do have a small baffles and it seems to be effective,
but not as good as origional.
> I concur with Ken Henderson. Most of the time, aftermarket valve covers do
> not come with breathers or baffles, just holes that don't fit OEM grommets
> very well.
> As for the oil pan windage shields, the only way I have used is to
> grind or drill out the spot welds, clean religiously, then either spot
> weld or button weld them back in with a wire feeder. Don't leave them out.
> The factory would not have put them there without good reason.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC ROYALE 403
>
>
> > I've never found aftermarket covers with baffles.
> >
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> >
> > ...If you are really going for the cleanest parts it would make sense to
> > put on some brand-new aftermarket covers, possibly in chrome.
> > ...
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
but not as good as origional.
> I concur with Ken Henderson. Most of the time, aftermarket valve covers do
> not come with breathers or baffles, just holes that don't fit OEM grommets
> very well.
> As for the oil pan windage shields, the only way I have used is to
> grind or drill out the spot welds, clean religiously, then either spot
> weld or button weld them back in with a wire feeder. Don't leave them out.
> The factory would not have put them there without good reason.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC ROYALE 403
>
>
> > I've never found aftermarket covers with baffles.
> >
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> >
> > ...If you are really going for the cleanest parts it would make sense to
> > put on some brand-new aftermarket covers, possibly in chrome.
> > ...
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
For rust removal, I can attest to the effectiveness of EvapoRust. Used it recently to remove all rust from wheel hubs. Product performs exactly as
advertised. Available from Walmart, Festenal and Amazon.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/leigh-harrison-rear-brake-maintenance/p64068-gmc-hub-after-evaporust-11-2017.html
Product: https://www.evapo-rust.com/product-info/
--
Wackster - 1976 23' Crestmont
Baltimore, Maryland
advertised. Available from Walmart, Festenal and Amazon.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/leigh-harrison-rear-brake-maintenance/p64068-gmc-hub-after-evaporust-11-2017.html
Product: https://www.evapo-rust.com/product-info/
--
Wackster - 1976 23' Crestmont
Baltimore, Maryland
The majority of oil pans that I've dealt with over a lot of years have been quit clean. This has been due to the turbulence created by the rotating mass. The build up of material on the very bottom comes out well with solvents. Lots of lead build up from the days of leaded fuels. Pans with rust inside, or pans from engines that had heavy crankshaft damage. They've been unusable to me. BUT. Now I need to figure out how to get this oil pan acceptable to use. ( As this nice 403 came out of a running 78 Olds wagon. The pans been laying around. ) I need to pull the baffle. Clean. Then braze back in. The lack of extreme cleaning is the reason for rebuilt engine failure. Bob Dunahugh
I'm not happy about not being able to say that the backside of these baffles are 100% PERFECTLY clean for the rebuild of this 403. This 403 oil pan has some rust on the inside. I've just never run into this before. If there is contamination inside the baffles. There's just no way to get it out using normal block cleaning methods. So has anyone removed these baffles for cleaning? Then reinstall. As I've said. I get real anal over cleanliness on engine assembly. When I assemble an engine. My shop that I keep our GMC in. I turn on it's air filtration system 12 hours before assembly. Then do all assembly with paper coveralls, and on white paper. I've never lost a bottom end of any race engines/ driver I've built. This cleanliness just pays off. Bob Dnahugh
I'm not happy about not being able to say that the backside of these baffles are 100% PERFECTLY clean for the rebuild of this 403. This 403 oil pan has some rust on the inside. I've just never run into this before. If there is contamination inside the baffles. There's just no way to get it out using normal block cleaning methods. So has anyone removed these baffles for cleaning? Then reinstall. As I've said. I get real anal over cleanliness on engine assembly. When I assemble an engine. My shop that I keep our GMC in. I turn on it's air filtration system 12 hours before assembly. Then do all assembly with paper coveralls, and on white paper. I've never lost a bottom end of any race engines/ driver I've built. This cleanliness just pays off. Bob Dnahugh
I would just drill out the spot welds and then TIG it back together when you're ready, no spatter no problems at all.
Brazing would work as well if no TIG available.
--
Justin Brady
http://www.thegmcrv.com/
1976 Palm Beach 455
Brazing would work as well if no TIG available.
--
Justin Brady
http://www.thegmcrv.com/
1976 Palm Beach 455
Put a nozzle in your hi-pressure that shoots out a single straight stream and blast the hell out of the area between the pan and the
baffle.
Direct the flow from the "outside" towards the slot and see what comes out.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/mechanical/p58370-oil-sump-pan-pickup.html
Then direct the flow the other way.
I reckon that any contamination that doesn't come out with the high pressure blast won't come out while the engine is running.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Bob Dunahugh
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2018 4:39 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Removing Valve cover/ oil pan baffles
The majority of oil pans that I've dealt with over a lot of years have been quit clean. This has been due to the turbulence
created by the rotating mass. The build up of material on the very bottom comes out well with solvents. Lots of lead build up from
the days of leaded fuels. Pans with rust inside, or pans from engines that had heavy crankshaft damage. They've been unusable to
me. BUT. Now I need to figure out how to get this oil pan acceptable to use. (As this nice 403 came out of a running 78 Olds wagon.
The pans been laying around. ) I need to pull the baffle. Clean. Then braze back in. The lack of extreme cleaning is the reason for
rebuilt engine failure. Bob Dunahugh
I'm not happy about not being able to say that the backside of these baffles are 100% PERFECTLY clean for the rebuild of this
403. This 403 oil pan has some rust on the inside. I've just never run into this before. If there is contamination inside the
baffles. There's just no way to get it out using normal block cleaning methods. So has anyone removed these baffles for cleaning?
Then reinstall. As I've said. I get real anal over cleanliness on engine assembly. When I assemble an engine. My shop that I keep
our GMC in. I turn on it's air filtration system 12 hours before assembly. Then do all assembly with paper coveralls, and on white
paper. I've never lost a bottom end of any race engines/ driver I've built. This cleanliness just pays off. Bob Dnahugh
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
baffle.
Direct the flow from the "outside" towards the slot and see what comes out.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/mechanical/p58370-oil-sump-pan-pickup.html
Then direct the flow the other way.
I reckon that any contamination that doesn't come out with the high pressure blast won't come out while the engine is running.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Bob Dunahugh
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2018 4:39 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Removing Valve cover/ oil pan baffles
The majority of oil pans that I've dealt with over a lot of years have been quit clean. This has been due to the turbulence
created by the rotating mass. The build up of material on the very bottom comes out well with solvents. Lots of lead build up from
the days of leaded fuels. Pans with rust inside, or pans from engines that had heavy crankshaft damage. They've been unusable to
me. BUT. Now I need to figure out how to get this oil pan acceptable to use. (As this nice 403 came out of a running 78 Olds wagon.
The pans been laying around. ) I need to pull the baffle. Clean. Then braze back in. The lack of extreme cleaning is the reason for
rebuilt engine failure. Bob Dunahugh
I'm not happy about not being able to say that the backside of these baffles are 100% PERFECTLY clean for the rebuild of this
403. This 403 oil pan has some rust on the inside. I've just never run into this before. If there is contamination inside the
baffles. There's just no way to get it out using normal block cleaning methods. So has anyone removed these baffles for cleaning?
Then reinstall. As I've said. I get real anal over cleanliness on engine assembly. When I assemble an engine. My shop that I keep
our GMC in. I turn on it's air filtration system 12 hours before assembly. Then do all assembly with paper coveralls, and on white
paper. I've never lost a bottom end of any race engines/ driver I've built. This cleanliness just pays off. Bob Dnahugh
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> Put a nozzle in your hi-pressure that shoots out a single straight stream and blast the hell out of the area between the pan and the
> baffle.
>
> Direct the flow from the "outside" towards the slot and see what comes out.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/mechanical/p58370-oil-sump-pan-pickup.html
>
> Then direct the flow the other way.
>
> I reckon that any contamination that doesn't come out with the high pressure blast won't come out while the engine is running.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
My pressure washer allows for the use of soap with the pressurized water... as do most high pressure washers. Why not add a little soap to the mix.
Would help cut the oil under the baffles. the shut off the soap and rinse with just water. Might work even better if you could take water right out
of the hot water heater. Hot water and soap, and a hot water rinse (which evaporates quicker with no rusting) might really work!
Just what I think....
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
> baffle.
>
> Direct the flow from the "outside" towards the slot and see what comes out.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/mechanical/p58370-oil-sump-pan-pickup.html
>
> Then direct the flow the other way.
>
> I reckon that any contamination that doesn't come out with the high pressure blast won't come out while the engine is running.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
My pressure washer allows for the use of soap with the pressurized water... as do most high pressure washers. Why not add a little soap to the mix.
Would help cut the oil under the baffles. the shut off the soap and rinse with just water. Might work even better if you could take water right out
of the hot water heater. Hot water and soap, and a hot water rinse (which evaporates quicker with no rusting) might really work!
Just what I think....
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
Rob. I think your right. BUT. Until I pull that baffle out. I'm not up to take any chance. Bob Dunahugh
I'm not happy about not being able to say that the backside of these baffles are 100% PERFECTLY clean for the rebuild of this 403. This 403 oil pan has some rust on the inside. I've just never run into this before. If there is contamination inside the baffles. There's just no way to get it out using normal block cleaning methods. So has anyone removed these baffles for cleaning? Then reinstall. As I've said. I get real anal over cleanliness on engine assembly. When I assemble an engine. My shop that I keep our GMC in. I turn on it's air filtration system 12 hours before assembly. Then do all assembly with paper coveralls, and on white paper. I've never lost a bottom end of any race engines/ driver I've built. This cleanliness just pays off. Bob Dnahugh
I'm not happy about not being able to say that the backside of these baffles are 100% PERFECTLY clean for the rebuild of this 403. This 403 oil pan has some rust on the inside. I've just never run into this before. If there is contamination inside the baffles. There's just no way to get it out using normal block cleaning methods. So has anyone removed these baffles for cleaning? Then reinstall. As I've said. I get real anal over cleanliness on engine assembly. When I assemble an engine. My shop that I keep our GMC in. I turn on it's air filtration system 12 hours before assembly. Then do all assembly with paper coveralls, and on white paper. I've never lost a bottom end of any race engines/ driver I've built. This cleanliness just pays off. Bob Dnahugh
Take the valve covers to your nearest carwash place. Start with concentrated soap, let soak for a few minutes, then run the high pressure (with soap) wash, then high pressure rinse. Repeat as necessary. Finish with the "spotless" mineral-free final rinse. Let dry in the sun. Reinstall.
D C "Mac" Macdonald
Amateur Radio K2GKK
Since 30 November '53
USAF and FAA, Retired
Member GMCMI & Classics
Oklahoma City, OK
"The Money Pit"
TZE166V101966
'76 ex-Palm Beach
k2gkk + hotmail dot com
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Larry
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2018 21:00
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Removing Valve cover/ oil pan baffles
> Put a nozzle in your hi-pressure that shoots out a single straight stream and blast the hell out of the area between the pan and the
> baffle.
>
> Direct the flow from the "outside" towards the slot and see what comes out.
>
> https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gmcmhphotos.com%2Fphotos%2Fmechanical%2Fp58370-oil-sump-pan-pickup.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7Cc1239998af4742c07d2108d5678daff6%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636528780594331886&sdata=Xi2gWBIT8jyvJv4dUOqeEOtc8M5xqVeSYUTj6GJ7%2BmA%3D&reserved=0
>
> Then direct the flow the other way.
>
> I reckon that any contamination that doesn't come out with the high pressure blast won't come out while the engine is running.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
My pressure washer allows for the use of soap with the pressurized water... as do most high pressure washers. Why not add a little soap to the mix.
Would help cut the oil under the baffles. the shut off the soap and rinse with just water. Might work even better if you could take water right out
of the hot water heater. Hot water and soap, and a hot water rinse (which evaporates quicker with no rusting) might really work!
Just what I think....
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Flist.gmcnet.org%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fgmclist_list.gmcnet.org&data=02%7C01%7C%7Cc1239998af4742c07d2108d5678daff6%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636528780594331886&sdata=fdJBRzxyT%2Fqj2T6ibR4UIyvZQcYma3dEFacPf%2F7mrm8%3D&reserved=0
D C "Mac" Macdonald
Amateur Radio K2GKK
Since 30 November '53
USAF and FAA, Retired
Member GMCMI & Classics
Oklahoma City, OK
"The Money Pit"
TZE166V101966
'76 ex-Palm Beach
k2gkk + hotmail dot com
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Larry
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2018 21:00
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Removing Valve cover/ oil pan baffles
> Put a nozzle in your hi-pressure that shoots out a single straight stream and blast the hell out of the area between the pan and the
> baffle.
>
> Direct the flow from the "outside" towards the slot and see what comes out.
>
> https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gmcmhphotos.com%2Fphotos%2Fmechanical%2Fp58370-oil-sump-pan-pickup.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7Cc1239998af4742c07d2108d5678daff6%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636528780594331886&sdata=Xi2gWBIT8jyvJv4dUOqeEOtc8M5xqVeSYUTj6GJ7%2BmA%3D&reserved=0
>
> Then direct the flow the other way.
>
> I reckon that any contamination that doesn't come out with the high pressure blast won't come out while the engine is running.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
My pressure washer allows for the use of soap with the pressurized water... as do most high pressure washers. Why not add a little soap to the mix.
Would help cut the oil under the baffles. the shut off the soap and rinse with just water. Might work even better if you could take water right out
of the hot water heater. Hot water and soap, and a hot water rinse (which evaporates quicker with no rusting) might really work!
Just what I think....
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Flist.gmcnet.org%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fgmclist_list.gmcnet.org&data=02%7C01%7C%7Cc1239998af4742c07d2108d5678daff6%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636528780594331886&sdata=fdJBRzxyT%2Fqj2T6ibR4UIyvZQcYma3dEFacPf%2F7mrm8%3D&reserved=0
