Removing Side Molding

C

CREATIVERS

New member
Nov 11, 2015
10
0
0
I have some small leaks coming in at the waste-line side molding. This is a '73 23'. I have gutted the interior, so am pretty sure I've traced the
moisture to this seam, where aluminum meets fiberglass. It came to me with the rubber molding already removed, exposing just the bare metal backing
(so apparently PO knew there were leaks here and thought about digging into it).

It appears to me that some renovations have removed this molding altogether? I can see where this would make repainting go smoother. Some have
replaced with a more refined molding?

So my question is, do I just start drilling out the rivets (after unscrewing side lights, endcaps, etc) until the molding comes off? Then start
bondo-ing the seam?

Then, any recommendations on replacing the molding with something more refined, or leaving it smooth? (I lean toward smooth).

Paul

--
Paul & Carolynn Lynnwood WA
'73 23' I don't know the model. Mid-bath.
Presently gutted. Installed One-Ton FrontEnd.
 
There is no way to french that seam away to where it will not reveal itself
later with a crack. Which you will then have to fix again or cover with a
molding. The simplest permanent fix would be to clean the seam, apply new
flexible seam sealant and re install some type of molding to cover it.

Sully
77 eleganza 2
Seattle

> I have some small leaks coming in at the waste-line side molding. This is
> a '73 23'. I have gutted the interior, so am pretty sure I've traced the
> moisture to this seam, where aluminum meets fiberglass. It came to me with
> the rubber molding already removed, exposing just the bare metal backing
> (so apparently PO knew there were leaks here and thought about digging
> into it).
>
> It appears to me that some renovations have removed this molding
> altogether? I can see where this would make repainting go smoother. Some
> have
> replaced with a more refined molding?
>
> So my question is, do I just start drilling out the rivets (after
> unscrewing side lights, endcaps, etc) until the molding comes off? Then
> start
> bondo-ing the seam?
>
> Then, any recommendations on replacing the molding with something more
> refined, or leaving it smooth? (I lean toward smooth).
>
> Paul
>
> --
> Paul & Carolynn Lynnwood WA
> '73 23' I don't know the model. Mid-bath.
> Presently gutted. Installed One-Ton FrontEnd.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
The best way to redo the seam on the early coaches up to mid to late 76 models is the use 2” by 1/8” thick aluminum strips to make it look like the later coaches. The molding has no practical purpose other than to cover the seam. Without the molding the coach IMHO looks much better.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37090-mvc-014s1.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37089-mvc-013s2.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37083-mvc-007s1.html

J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
Newsletter Editor/Publisher
Tech Editor
78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan

>
> There is no way to french that seam away to where it will not reveal itself
> later with a crack. Which you will then have to fix again or cover with a
> molding. The simplest permanent fix would be to clean the seam, apply new
> flexible seam sealant and re install some type of molding to cover it.
>
> Sully
> 77 eleganza 2
> Seattle

>
>> I have some small leaks coming in at the waste-line side molding. This is
>> a '73 23'. I have gutted the interior, so am pretty sure I've traced the
>> moisture to this seam, where aluminum meets fiberglass. It came to me with
>> the rubber molding already removed, exposing just the bare metal backing
>> (so apparently PO knew there were leaks here and thought about digging
>> into it).
>>
>> It appears to me that some renovations have removed this molding
>> altogether? I can see where this would make repainting go smoother. Some
>> have
>> replaced with a more refined molding?
>>
>> So my question is, do I just start drilling out the rivets (after
>> unscrewing side lights, endcaps, etc) until the molding comes off? Then
>> start
>> bondo-ing the seam?
>>
>> Then, any recommendations on replacing the molding with something more
>> refined, or leaving it smooth? (I lean toward smooth).
>>
>> Paul
>>
>> --
>> Paul & Carolynn Lynnwood WA
>> '73 23' I don't know the model. Mid-bath.
>> Presently gutted. Installed One-Ton FrontEnd.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
J.R.
How did you attach the new aluminum strips to the coach?

Rick

Rick&Tammy Drummond
Prior Lake MN
'74 (re)Painted Desert

>
> The best way to redo the seam on the early coaches up to mid to late 76 models is the use 2” by 1/8” thick aluminum strips to make it look like the later coaches. The molding has no practical purpose other than to cover the seam. Without the molding the coach IMHO looks much better.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37090-mvc-014s1.html
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37089-mvc-013s2.html
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37083-mvc-007s1.html
>
> J.R. Wright
> GMC GreatLaker
> Newsletter Editor/Publisher
> Tech Editor
> 78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
> 75 Avion Under Reconstruction
> Michigan
>

>>
>> There is no way to french that seam away to where it will not reveal itself
>> later with a crack. Which you will then have to fix again or cover with a
>> molding. The simplest permanent fix would be to clean the seam, apply new
>> flexible seam sealant and re install some type of molding to cover it.
>>
>> Sully
>> 77 eleganza 2
>> Seattle

>>>
>>> I have some small leaks coming in at the waste-line side molding. This is
>>> a '73 23'. I have gutted the interior, so am pretty sure I've traced the
>>> moisture to this seam, where aluminum meets fiberglass. It came to me with
>>> the rubber molding already removed, exposing just the bare metal backing
>>> (so apparently PO knew there were leaks here and thought about digging
>>> into it).
>>>
>>> It appears to me that some renovations have removed this molding
>>> altogether? I can see where this would make repainting go smoother. Some
>>> have
>>> replaced with a more refined molding?
>>>
>>> So my question is, do I just start drilling out the rivets (after
>>> unscrewing side lights, endcaps, etc) until the molding comes off? Then
>>> start
>>> bondo-ing the seam?
>>>
>>> Then, any recommendations on replacing the molding with something more
>>> refined, or leaving it smooth? (I lean toward smooth).
>>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>> --
>>> Paul & Carolynn Lynnwood WA
>>> '73 23' I don't know the model. Mid-bath.
>>> Presently gutted. Installed One-Ton FrontEnd.
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Rick,
Do not have any pictures, but will have some this summer when I redo the 75 Avion. The aluminum is fixed over the belt line area with the use of rivets with recessed heads that you fill later and 3M Automix 8219 SMC/panel adhesive and you could use the 8115 adhesive also. You also need the applicator gun. I have been lucky enough to find several at swap meets here in AZ. The ends are not butt ended but they cut so there is a matching overlap and glued.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tes-08115/overview/
http://3mcollision.com/3m-composite-and-metal-bonding-adhesive-08219.html
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tes-08571/overview/

J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
Newsletter Editor/Publisher
Tech Editor
78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan

>
> J.R.
> How did you attach the new aluminum strips to the coach?
>
> Rick
>
> Rick&Tammy Drummond
> Prior Lake MN
> '74 (re)Painted Desert
>

>>
>> The best way to redo the seam on the early coaches up to mid to late 76 models is the use 2” by 1/8” thick aluminum strips to make it look like the later coaches. The molding has no practical purpose other than to cover the seam. Without the molding the coach IMHO looks much better.
>>
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37090-mvc-014s1.html
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37089-mvc-013s2.html
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37083-mvc-007s1.html
>>
>> J.R. Wright
>> GMC GreatLaker
>> Newsletter Editor/Publisher
>> Tech Editor
>> 78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
>> 75 Avion Under Reconstruction
>> Michigan
>>

>>>
>>> There is no way to french that seam away to where it will not reveal itself
>>> later with a crack. Which you will then have to fix again or cover with a
>>> molding. The simplest permanent fix would be to clean the seam, apply new
>>> flexible seam sealant and re install some type of molding to cover it.
>>>
>>> Sully
>>> 77 eleganza 2
>>> Seattle

>>>>
>>>> I have some small leaks coming in at the waste-line side molding. This is
>>>> a '73 23'. I have gutted the interior, so am pretty sure I've traced the
>>>> moisture to this seam, where aluminum meets fiberglass. It came to me with
>>>> the rubber molding already removed, exposing just the bare metal backing
>>>> (so apparently PO knew there were leaks here and thought about digging
>>>> into it).
>>>>
>>>> It appears to me that some renovations have removed this molding
>>>> altogether? I can see where this would make repainting go smoother. Some
>>>> have
>>>> replaced with a more refined molding?
>>>>
>>>> So my question is, do I just start drilling out the rivets (after
>>>> unscrewing side lights, endcaps, etc) until the molding comes off? Then
>>>> start
>>>> bondo-ing the seam?
>>>>
>>>> Then, any recommendations on replacing the molding with something more
>>>> refined, or leaving it smooth? (I lean toward smooth).
>>>>
>>>> Paul
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Paul & Carolynn Lynnwood WA
>>>> '73 23' I don't know the model. Mid-bath.
>>>> Presently gutted. Installed One-Ton FrontEnd.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
What strips are you referring to? The 2” wide X 1/8” thick aluminum filler strips to close the opening on the 73 thru late 76 coach bodies or the side moldings? The aluminum is available from a aluminum supplier near you and the body side moulding can be purchased from Jim B as a kit and Jim K as a kit.

http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/1179
or
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/1543

Jim B site is not as searchable as Jim K site is. You would need to call him to get the price from him.

J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
Newsletter Editor/Publisher
Tech Editor
78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan

>
> How does one procure these strips? Are these the same thing as AppliedGMC sells: http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/1179
>
>
> --
> Paul & Carolynn Lynnwood WA
> '73 23' I don't know the model. Mid-bath.
> Presently gutted. Installed One-Ton FrontEnd.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Applied GMC
Get your shine on at www.cruzingear.co

Share this page

Share this page
Top Bottom
Back