Removing Accent Stripe and.......

L

larry nelson

New member
Apr 9, 2001
384
0
0
My paint is serviceable. It is my accent striping that is worn out. Any way to remove that? Heat gun? Chemical? Wishful thinking?

If I can get it off, I can get a graphics company to make new.

Also, the decorative trim at the "waist" of the coach, looks like rubber bordered by plastic chrome, 2" wide. I have a section that is boogered up. I
see Applied has it but there is no view of it other than it rolled up in a coil. Is this pretty close to stock?

Thanks to all.

Larry Nelson
--
Larry Nelson Springfield, MO
Ex GMC'er, then GM Busnut
now '77 Eleganza ARS WB0JOT
 
You may have success with a heat gun or hair dryer and a plastic putty knife. Its a darn slow process, and need to be careful not to scratch up the
paint. If that doesn't do the trick a 3M stripe off wheel will do it and will not damage or burn through the paint. The wheels are pricey however.
Like 30 bucks a piece, But they work. I needed 2 of them to do basically the half of the coach where the heat and peel did not work.

Cant speak to the beltline molding. I removed mine and never put it back on.
--
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
 
Depends on what paint is on your rig. Original paint will be more likely to with stand the peeling and the heat gun. If there is any blistering under
your paint where the stripe is use a razor blade to lightly score the leading edge of the stripe. Otherwise when you start peeling you'll get more
than your stripe coming off. If the rig was repainted and then restricted it all depends how old the job was. UV protection has come a long way over
the years but never seems to be good enough. So if you put new graphics on the rig make sure they are the same size or slightly larger than the ones
removed to avoid showing any fading/discoloration from the original stripe. A heat gun with a bondo spreader work well and won't gouge your paint any
scratches can easily be hand rubbed out.
--
Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis
NH natives
1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda
Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.
 
You need to purchase a 'scraperite' which is a hard plastic blade similar looking to a metal razor blade. This plastic blade can be used with a
holder called a 'gripper'
I believe they are American so should be able to get from a supplier to the sign industry they are used for vinyl removal and do not scratch paint
work like a razor blade will. Used together with a hot air gun if necessary and the glue residue is removed with mineral turpentine.
Peter Bailey
from Ozy (Aussie)
 
I have been recently looking into doing this too. Our coach still has original paint and stripes. Tried this eraser wheel (link below) and it works
great. I only took a couple inches of stripe off so far to test it, but it is easy to do and I think you'd have to try hard to hurt the paint with
it. From what I read, it will take a few wheels and a day or two to remove the stripes. Based on my limited test, I think this sounds reasonably
accurate to me.

As for new stripes, I've talked to a couple of places that do car wrapping. Both said they have done similar jobs and both said there are two
approaches. 1) find colors in the standard available colors and make stripe with that material, or 2) have custom stripes printed which can be
virtually any design or color. I'm planning to having custom stripes made to match the original ones. I think one advantage to the custom stripes is
you can have some printed in the curve shape to make the wrap around the nose easier. Both places seemed to think that probably wouldn't be necessary
for an experienced installer though. I'm hoping to install myself, so I didn't ask for installation quotes. Estimates for the custom printed stripes
are about $400-$500.

Also, I have a little concern about how long they'll last, but they claim 5-10 years depending on sun exposure.

eraser wheel I tried
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063VT0G

--
Tom

77 Kingsley. Mostly Stock, 455, Quad bag, tachometer, 16"wheels, Macerator.
Southern California, huntington beach
 
Factory strips are available from Tom Hampton. Tom is backing out of the business, but still has alot of parts to sell.

http://www.grandviewmotorhome.com

Contact him for your needs

J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLakerTech Editor
78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan

>
> I have been recently looking into doing this too. Our coach still has original paint and stripes. Tried this eraser wheel (link below) and it works
> great. I only took a couple inches of stripe off so far to test it, but it is easy to do and I think you'd have to try hard to hurt the paint with
> it. From what I read, it will take a few wheels and a day or two to remove the stripes. Based on my limited test, I think this sounds reasonably
> accurate to me.
>
> As for new stripes, I've talked to a couple of places that do car wrapping. Both said they have done similar jobs and both said there are two
> approaches. 1) find colors in the standard available colors and make stripe with that material, or 2) have custom stripes printed which can be
> virtually any design or color. I'm planning to having custom stripes made to match the original ones. I think one advantage to the custom stripes is
> you can have some printed in the curve shape to make the wrap around the nose easier. Both places seemed to think that probably wouldn't be necessary
> for an experienced installer though. I'm hoping to install myself, so I didn't ask for installation quotes. Estimates for the custom printed stripes
> are about $400-$500.
>
> Also, I have a little concern about how long they'll last, but they claim 5-10 years depending on sun exposure.
>
> eraser wheel I tried
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063VT0G
>
> --
> Tom
>
> 77 Kingsley. Mostly Stock, 455, Quad bag, tachometer, 16"wheels, Macerator.
> Southern California, huntington beach
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
> I used a heat gun "carefully and slowly" to remove the stripes. Find an out-of-the-view spot and try some acetone to remove the glue residue. If
> you have factory paint it will work but be very slow.. Non factory paint will be ruined with the acetone. If it works it's just a lot of rubbing and
> cleaning.... Factory paint is Imron, as far as I know. Good chemical resistant stuff....Tom

73 & 74 is not Imron. Imron started in '75. Not sure what is on "73 &74.

--
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
 
Steve Southworth schrieb/wrote
> 73 & 74 is not Imron. Imron started in '75. Not sure what is on "73 &74.

Would there be any advantage on a repaint to request an imron paint job
for a 73?

--
Best regards

Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA

'76a Eleganza II 26', VA
'73 Sequoia 23', Germany, SH
 
R.T.F.M. in the front of the manual, it tells you what paint and
refinishing materials were used on your coach, and what can be used to
repair /refinish it. Sometime in mid run, they changed from Automotive
enamels to Imron. Imron's original formulation was deadly stuff, but
practically indestructible. Meant to stay on airplanes at 600 miles an
hour. No longer available in it's original formulas due to hazards to
people and VOC and OSHA regulations. Best there is now is Base coat/clear
coat catalyzed paints. Lots of water based stuff out there, too. That early
water based stuff came off in the weather. Miserable stuff.
Jim Hupy

Jim Hupy

On Feb 1, 2018 7:44 AM, "Peer Oliver Schmidt GMC"
wrote:

> Steve Southworth schrieb/wrote
> > 73 & 74 is not Imron. Imron started in '75. Not sure what is on "73
> &74.
>
> Would there be any advantage on a repaint to request an imron paint job
> for a 73?
>
> --
> Best regards
>
> Peer Oliver Schmidt
> PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA
>
> '76a Eleganza II 26', VA
> '73 Sequoia 23', Germany, SH
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Imron is still available in many colors in a single stage formula which is
very similar to the old imron. You just need to specify and be willing to
work within the color spectrum serviced in that line. I was able to locate
an imron single stage metallic color which matched my chosen base/clear
color I used on the sides ( I did not want to mess with a two stage on the
roof)

Sully
77 eleganza 2
Bellevue.

> R.T.F.M. in the front of the manual, it tells you what paint and
> refinishing materials were used on your coach, and what can be used to
> repair /refinish it. Sometime in mid run, they changed from Automotive
> enamels to Imron. Imron's original formulation was deadly stuff, but
> practically indestructible. Meant to stay on airplanes at 600 miles an
> hour. No longer available in it's original formulas due to hazards to
> people and VOC and OSHA regulations. Best there is now is Base coat/clear
> coat catalyzed paints. Lots of water based stuff out there, too. That early
> water based stuff came off in the weather. Miserable stuff.
> Jim Hupy
>
> Jim Hupy
>
> On Feb 1, 2018 7:44 AM, "Peer Oliver Schmidt GMC"

>
> > Steve Southworth schrieb/wrote
> > > 73 & 74 is not Imron. Imron started in '75. Not sure what is on "73
> > &74.
> >
> > Would there be any advantage on a repaint to request an imron paint job
> > for a 73?
> >
> > --
> > Best regards
> >
> > Peer Oliver Schmidt
> > PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA
> >
> > '76a Eleganza II 26', VA
> > '73 Sequoia 23', Germany, SH
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
The first formulation of the Imron paint used on the GMC coach after chassi=
s# TZE165V100089 were extremely hazardous and required a full air suit to b=
e applied safely and a spray booth to collect the paint and vapors. It was=
a catalysis paint and many of the of the small users that used it in the a=
utomotive custom painting did not apply it in a safe manner and many were i=
njured by the paint and vapors. It has migrated thru several different for=
mulation thru the years with the Dupont Imron Elite being the latest formu=
lation. It has wide usage among the trucking industry in the painting of t=
ruck cabs because of the durability. Still requires the same safety requir=
ements. It does look great and is available in 18000+ color formulation. I=
t is no longer used in painting aircraft as other paint formulations are av=
ailable with the similar durability. It was always an expensive paint to p=
urchase and apply. Automotive paints have increased in price over the year=
s and the Imron paints have too, Depending on how you paint your coach you=
will need 2+ gal of sealer/primer @ $100 +/- gal. You will need what ever=
base colors that you choose 2 to 3 gals @ $75 per gal and then 2+ gals of =
clear coat depending if you apply 1 or 2 coats ( 2 is best) @$150 per gall=
on. All prices are a medium price and could be available in your area at a=
lessor or increased cost. Imron paints basic cost of a factor of 5X or mo=
re and finding a shop that would apply a challenge as there are a lot of ru=
les on how and where it can be applied, not a driveway job. There are =
many great paint systems out there that will give you a long lasting paint =
finish. We had our coach painted at Topeka Graphics in Topeka,IN. they=
do a lot of painting for the RV Industry. At the time this coach was paint=
ed they were using the Dupont Diamont paint system which was primer, base c=
olor and clear coat. If you want to paint your coach, do you need a pa=
int booth? Not necessarily, I know of several GMCers that have done a driv=
eway paint job that came out pretty good using automotive paints. http=
://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3675-topeka-gmc-paint-job.html http://w=
ww.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5667-77-gmc-exterior.html Regards, J.R=
. Wright GMC GreatLakerTech Editor 78 Buskirk 30' Stretch 75 Avion Un=
der Reconstruction Michigan > On Feb 1, 2018, at 8:59 AM, James Hupy=
wrote: > > R.T.F.M. in the front of the manual=
, it tells you what paint and > refinishing materials were used on your c=
oach, and what can be used to > repair /refinish it. Sometime in mid run,=
they changed from Automotive > enamels to Imron. Imron's original formul=
ation was deadly stuff, but > practically indestructible. Meant to stay o=
n airplanes at 600 miles an > hour. No longer available in it's original =
formulas due to hazards to > people and VOC and OSHA regulations. Best th=
ere is now is Base coat/clear > coat catalyzed paints. Lots of water base=
d stuff out there, too. That early > water based stuff came off in the we=
ather. Miserable stuff. > Jim Hupy > > Jim Hupy > > On Feb 1, 2=
018 7:44 AM, "Peer Oliver Schmidt GMC" > wrote: =
> >> Steve Southworth schrieb/wrote >>> 73 & 74 is not Imron. Imron s=
tarted in '75. Not sure what is on "73 >> &74. >> >> Would there be=
any advantage on a repaint to request an imron paint job >> for a 73? =
>> >> -- >> Best regards >> >> Peer Oliver Schmidt >> PGP Key I=
D: 0x83E1C2EA >> >> '76a Eleganza II 26', VA >> '73 Sequoia 23', Ger=
many, SH >> >> >> _______________________________________________=
>> GMCnet mailing list >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options: >> htt=
p://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org >> > ____=
___________________________________________ > GMCnet mailing list > Uns=
ubscribe or Change List Options: > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinf=
o/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
As John says it was a major safety hazard. It is a polyurethane paint that=
uses a isocyanate catalyst. The is a cyanide compound that is very toxic.=
Emery Stora > On Feb 1, 2018, at 10:17 AM, John Wright wrote: > > The first formulation of the Imron paint used =
on the GMC coach after chassis# TZE165V100089 were extremely hazardous and =
required a full air suit to be applied safely and a spray booth to collect =
the paint and vapors. It was a catalysis paint and many of the of the smal=
l users that used it in the automotive custom painting did not apply it in =
a safe manner and many were injured by the paint and vapors. It has migrat=
ed thru several different formulation thru the years with the Dupont Imron =
Elite being the latest formulation. It has wide usage among the trucking =
industry in the painting of truck cabs because of the durability. Still re=
quires the same safety requirements. It does look great and is available in=
18000+ color formulation. It is no longer used in painting aircraft as ot=
her paint formulations are available with the similar durability. It was a=
lways an expensive paint to purchase and apply. Automotive paints have inc=
reased in price over the years and the Imron paints > have too, Dependin=
g on how you paint your coach you will need 2+ gal of sealer/primer @ $100 =
+/- gal. You will need what ever base colors that you choose 2 to 3 gals @=
$75 per gal and then 2+ gals of clear coat depending if you apply 1 or 2 c=
oats ( 2 is best) @$150 per gallon. All prices are a medium price and cou=
ld be available in your area at a lessor or increased cost. Imron paints b=
asic cost of a factor of 5X or more and finding a shop that would apply a c=
hallenge as there are a lot of rules on how and where it can be applied, no=
t a driveway job. > > There are many great paint systems out there tha=
t will give you a long lasting paint finish. We had our coach painted at T=
opeka Graphics in Topeka,IN. > they do a lot of painting for the RV Ind=
ustry. At the time this coach was painted they were using the Dupont Diamon=
t paint system which was primer, base color and clear coat. > > If you=
want to paint your coach, do you need a paint booth? Not necessarily, I k=
now of several GMCers that have done a driveway paint job that came out pre=
tty good using automotive paints. > > http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photo=
s/g3675-topeka-gmc-paint-job.html > > http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photo=
s/g5667-77-gmc-exterior.html > > Regards, > > J.R. Wright > GMC=
GreatLakerTech Editor > 78 Buskirk 30' Stretch > 75 Avion Under Recons=
truction > Michigan > >> On Feb 1, 2018, at 8:59 AM, James Hupy wrote: >> >> R.T.F.M. in the front of the manual, i=
t tells you what paint and >> refinishing materials were used on your coa=
ch, and what can be used to >> repair /refinish it. Sometime in mid run, =
they changed from Automotive >> enamels to Imron. Imron's original formul=
ation was deadly stuff, but >> practically indestructible. Meant to stay =
on airplanes at 600 miles an >> hour. No longer available in it's origina=
l formulas due to hazards to >> people and VOC and OSHA regulations. Best=
there is now is Base coat/clear >> coat catalyzed paints. Lots of water =
based stuff out there, too. That early >> water based stuff came off in t=
he weather. Miserable stuff. >> Jim Hupy >> >> Jim Hupy >> >> O=
n Feb 1, 2018 7:44 AM, "Peer Oliver Schmidt GMC" >=
> wrote: >> >>> Steve Southworth schrieb/wrote >>>> 73 & 74 is not I=
mron. Imron started in '75. Not sure what is on "73 >>> &74. >>> >=
>> Would there be any advantage on a repaint to request an imron paint job=
>>> for a 73? >>> >>> -- >>> Best regards >>> >>> Peer Olive=
r Schmidt >>> PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA >>> >>> '76a Eleganza II 26', V=
A >>> '73 Sequoia 23', Germany, SH >>> >>> >>> __________________=
_____________________________ >>> GMCnet mailing list >>> Unsubscribe o=
r Change List Options: >>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclis=
t_list.gmcnet.org >>> >> _____________________________________________=
__ >> GMCnet mailing list >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options: >> h=
ttp://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org > > =
> _______________________________________________ > GMCnet mailing list=
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options: > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman=
/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
One caution with using an eraser wheel is the heat. It worked great for removing but if you stay in one place too long it can get very hot. I ended
up with a couple of scorch marks on a Bigfoot (fiberglass) camper I was striping.
--
Kenneth Maggard
Paradise Valley, Arizona
GMCer wannabee since 1973
Please contact me if you know a good original for sale.
 
As an aside, we sprayed a lot of AlumiGrip original formula and it was a catalyst paint about the time Imron appeared. You don't s'ppose it's all
that dangerous ~~ 50 years later?

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
No. It won’t be dangerous now. The catalyst is used up in the polymerization process with no residual left — especially after 50 years.

Emery Stora

>
> As an aside, we sprayed a lot of AlumiGrip original formula and it was a catalyst paint about the time Imron appeared. You don't s'ppose it's all
> that dangerous ~~ 50 years later?
>
> --johnny
> --
> 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
I sprayed an RC model airplane that I built with 2 part epoxy paint that
was fuel proof. Model engines use a mixture of Methanol, Nitromethane, and
castor oil. Because it was such a small job, I didn't wear a respirator.
I'll never do that stupid trick again. Isocyanates are Bad juju. I was sick
for a week, in bed for two days. Sick, I guess.
Jim Hupy

On Feb 1, 2018 1:00 PM, "Johnny Bridges via Gmclist" <

> As an aside, we sprayed a lot of AlumiGrip original formula and it was a
> catalyst paint about the time Imron appeared. You don't s'ppose it's all
> that dangerous ~~ 50 years later?
>
> --johnny
> --
> 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
In '76 or '77 I repaired a little Toyota Corolla wagon. Since Imron was
the latest fad, that's what I used for my (very amateur & runny) paint
job. I know that I bought a special carbon filter mask and, IIRC, that's
all that was recommended in those days. Fortunately, I sprayed it on the
driveway, so the fumes didn't accumulate. I didn't feel any effects at
the time and I've survived 'til' now, so I guess I was very lucky.

That probably wasn't as stupid as the time, in about '71, when I
acid-washed our in-ground swimming pool -- and added liquid chlorine. :-(
The odor drove me out before I passed out -- but possibly not soon enough.

My health is pretty good even today, but I do have some COPD which may be
attributable to those stupid stunts.

Ken H.

> I sprayed an RC model airplane that I built with 2 part epoxy paint that
> was fuel proof. Model engines use a mixture of Methanol, Nitromethane, and
> castor oil. Because it was such a small job, I didn't wear a respirator.
> I'll never do that stupid trick again. Isocyanates are Bad juju. I was sick
> for a week, in bed for two days. Sick, I guess.
> Jim Hupy
>
 
Acid etching a large wafer fab in the '80's - one of the carboys that was supposed to be full of muriatic acid was actually full of pool chlorine. We cleared the entire facility and I'm certain I coughed up a lung!! Nasty, nasty stuff that chlorine gas.

Larry Davick
Fremont, California
A Mystery Machine
'76 (ish) Palm Beach

>
>
> In '76 or '77 I repaired a little Toyota Corolla wagon. Since Imron was
> the latest fad, that's what I used for my (very amateur & runny) paint
> job. I know that I bought a special carbon filter mask and, IIRC, that's
> all that was recommended in those days. Fortunately, I sprayed it on the
> driveway, so the fumes didn't accumulate. I didn't feel any effects at
> the time and I've survived 'til' now, so I guess I was very lucky.
>
> That probably wasn't as stupid as the time, in about '71, when I
> acid-washed our in-ground swimming pool -- and added liquid chlorine. :-(
> The odor drove me out before I passed out -- but possibly not soon enough.
>
> My health is pretty good even today, but I do have some COPD which may be
> attributable to those stupid stunts.
>
> Ken H.
>
>

>
> > I sprayed an RC model airplane that I built with 2 part epoxy paint that
> > was fuel proof. Model engines use a mixture of Methanol, Nitromethane, and
> > castor oil. Because it was such a small job, I didn't wear a respirator.
> > I'll never do that stupid trick again. Isocyanates are Bad juju. I was sick
> > for a week, in bed for two days. Sick, I guess.
> > Jim Hupy
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
A rubber decal eraser wheel will pull paint on plastics and composites
unless extreme care is taken. The aluminum sides should not be an issue but
slow wheel speed and more pressure to use the wheel on the front and rear
caps.

Sully
77 eleganza 2
Bellevue

> Acid etching a large wafer fab in the '80's - one of the carboys that was
> supposed to be full of muriatic acid was actually full of pool chlorine.
> We cleared the entire facility and I'm certain I coughed up a lung!!
> Nasty, nasty stuff that chlorine gas.
>
> Larry Davick
> Fremont, California
> A Mystery Machine
> '76 (ish) Palm Beach
>
>
> > On February 1, 2018 at 3:38 PM Ken Henderson

> >
> >
> > In '76 or '77 I repaired a little Toyota Corolla wagon. Since Imron was
> > the latest fad, that's what I used for my (very amateur & runny) paint
> > job. I know that I bought a special carbon filter mask and, IIRC, that's
> > all that was recommended in those days. Fortunately, I sprayed it on the
> > driveway, so the fumes didn't accumulate. I didn't feel any effects at
> > the time and I've survived 'til' now, so I guess I was very lucky.
> >
> > That probably wasn't as stupid as the time, in about '71, when I
> > acid-washed our in-ground swimming pool -- and added liquid chlorine.
> :-(
> > The odor drove me out before I passed out -- but possibly not soon
> enough.
> >
> > My health is pretty good even today, but I do have some COPD which may be
> > attributable to those stupid stunts.
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> >

> >
> > > I sprayed an RC model airplane that I built with 2 part epoxy paint
> that
> > > was fuel proof. Model engines use a mixture of Methanol, Nitromethane,
> and
> > > castor oil. Because it was such a small job, I didn't wear a
> respirator.
> > > I'll never do that stupid trick again. Isocyanates are Bad juju. I was
> sick
> > > for a week, in bed for two days. Sick, I guess.
> > > Jim Hupy
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
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