Remove the bath unit??

[Matt Colie]

Yesterday, I assisted in the almost removal of the bath unit from a coach that is being parted out. Fortunately, one in the group knew that this can
be done. I sure didn't have any plan. The GM guy that designed this had to be some kind of a puzzle expert. The unit will fit through the rear
opening if:
- You have removed all the interior liner that encroaches on the opening.
- You have removed all the drain parts that protrude through the shower floor.*
- You have it free of the booster blocking so you can go aft.**
- You can rotate the unit 30° to the right so it lines up with the opening.***
- The water heater has to be gone.

* The toilet drop pipe is best removed. If there is any chance you might have to do this, replace the screws in the with SS.
** The unit apparently was brought in and then jacked and the blocking put under it. When it was down then it could move.
*** If the closet is still there, there is room to go aft of it and rotate. The unit is not light.

In the case you do not know, the toilet flange and drop pipe in my '73 are screwed into the black tank top (a 3" plastic thread). With the flange
screws removed and a couple of 1/4 screws though a ~20" long 2X4, the flange and pipe can be unscrewed. If you take the kick board out from under the
unit, you can unscrew the shower drain.

We missed being able to remove it by a small shortage of gorilla power. The new owner plans to return with more in the near future.

I hope that this is of value to somebody.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[kingsley coach]

I took mine out the back window...and the ladder did not interfer.

Mike in NS

> Yesterday, I assisted in the almost removal of the bath unit from a coach
> that is being parted out. Fortunately, one in the group knew that this can
> be done. I sure didn't have any plan. The GM guy that designed this had
> to be some kind of a puzzle expert. The unit will fit through the rear
> opening if:
> - You have removed all the interior liner that encroaches on the opening.
> - You have removed all the drain parts that protrude through the shower
> floor.*
> - You have it free of the booster blocking so you can go aft.**
> - You can rotate the unit 30° to the right so it lines up with the
> opening.***
> - The water heater has to be gone.
>
> * The toilet drop pipe is best removed. If there is any chance you might
> have to do this, replace the screws in the with SS.
> ** The unit apparently was brought in and then jacked and the blocking put
> under it. When it was down then it could move.
> *** If the closet is still there, there is room to go aft of it and
> rotate. The unit is not light.
>
> In the case you do not know, the toilet flange and drop pipe in my '73 are
> screwed into the black tank top (a 3" plastic thread). With the flange
> screws removed and a couple of 1/4 screws though a ~20" long 2X4, the
> flange and pipe can be unscrewed. If you take the kick board out from
> under the
> unit, you can unscrew the shower drain.
>
> We missed being able to remove it by a small shortage of gorilla power.
> The new owner plans to return with more in the near future.
>
> I hope that this is of value to somebody.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
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>

--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS

Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !

 

[peer oliver schmidt]

Morning,

how big is the chance to move the bath module from one side to the other
without destroying it? ie. does it make more sense to build a new bath,
or is moving it feasible?

--
Best regards

Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA

'76a Eleganza II, VA

 

[Matt Colie]

> Morning,
>
> how big is the chance to move the bath module from one side to the other without destroying it? ie. does it make more sense to build a new bath,
> or is moving it feasible?
> --
> Best regards
>
> Peer Oliver Schmidt

Peer,

This is all conjecture on my part, but it is based on what I just saw.
I believe it would be very possible.

The unit we were dealing with was supported and bonded to plywood and it was all on top of a riser that was made if 1x3 that appeared to be a hardwood
(maybe birch). The wood hall side and the door were removed to lighten the unit. There is a kick board under the hall side that is held be screws
and with it removed, the floor drain can be completely removed. The toilet flange and drop pipe need to come out. (This one had rusted screws
through the flange and that was a big problem because it held the flange and the bottom of the unit to the plywood top section of the riser mentioned
above.) With vent fan removed, water and electric disconnected, it should be possible to side the unit onto a waiting temporary riser. I believe
that there would be adequate room to turn the unit full around on the temporary supports. One should then able to recover the existing riser and use
it and to open floor to guide the locations of the relief for the floor drain trap and the drop pipe from the toilet.

If you are working with a standard side bath 26, how you work the drains and vents from there, I have no idea at all.

Matt

--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[peer oliver schmidt]

Matt,

thank you for your details. Very much appreciated.
> If you are working with a standard side bath 26, how you work the drains and vents from there, I have no idea at all.

The idea with the bathroom move is not for my US-based 26-footer, but a
plan for the 23-footer that I hopefully possess later this year for
Europe. It is still in a lot of planning (the remodel), that's why I am
asking all these stupid questions.

--
Best regards

Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA

'76a Eleganza II, VA

 

[Matt Colie]

> Matt,
>
> thank you for your details. Very much appreciated.
> > If you are working with a standard side bath 26, how you work the drains and vents from there, I have no idea at all.
>
> The idea with the bathroom move is not for my US-based 26-footer, but a
> plan for the 23-footer that I hopefully possess later this year for
> Europe. It is still in a lot of planning (the remodel), that's why I am
> asking all these stupid questions.
>
> --
> Best regards
>
> Peer Oliver Schmidt

Peer,

You had the opportunity to ask the questions, and I am glad you did.
If if it is a 73 or 4, I can tell you more. When you get closer, or any time for that matter, ask away. If you are going to do that, I may have some
other suggestions of things that could make it all work better.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit