Relay lever bolt

[Michael and DJ]

Hey all...
Can't seem to get the bolt holding the relay lever to the frame out. Anyone have any tips? I've used Kroil numerous times, applied heat to the "bung" at the base of the frame, smacked it a bunch with a punch and hammer... My impact gun, that's never let me down, is letting me down.
Just got my replacement Dave Lenzi unit in the mail, and I need to get it off. HELP!?!?

 

[RF_Burns]

I believe the torque spec for that bolt is 250Ft-lbs, so you are going to need something bigger than the normal breaker bar.
I removed the driver's side wheel for better access. I used a 3/4" drive socket with a pipe on the breaker bar to remove it.

 

[tmsnyder]

I believe the torque spec for that bolt is 250Ft-lbs, so you are going to need something bigger than the normal breaker bar.
I removed the driver's side wheel for better access. I used a 3/4" drive socket with a pipe on the breaker bar to remove it.

Absolutely.

Get the front up on jack stands, remove front wheels, remove the inner fender liners.

This improves the access anytime you're doing anything around the engine and front suspension.

 

[Michael and DJ]

Finally got it off. It fought me the whole time, taking the fender well and flare off was the ticket.
Now I'm having a time getting the idler arm off. I may have made a mistake by pulling out the bolt through the frame before working on the side that goes through the intermediate rod. After getting the cotter pin and nut off, I realized that it wasn't gonna just "fall out", and I consulted the manual. It says to use a puller on that BEFORE taking the bolt out.
Anyone have any advice? is it tapered like a tie rod end? Can I get it off without a puller?

 

[RF_Burns]

You need a puller or tie Rod end fork to remove them. Give them a couple of good raps on the side to help loosen thet

 

[tmsnyder]

Finally got it off. It fought me the whole time, taking the fender well and flare off was the ticket.
Now I'm having a time getting the idler arm off. I may have made a mistake by pulling out the bolt through the frame before working on the side that goes through the intermediate rod. After getting the cotter pin and nut off, I realized that it wasn't gonna just "fall out", and I consulted the manual. It says to use a puller on that BEFORE taking the bolt out.
Anyone have any advice? is it tapered like a tie rod end? Can I get it off without a puller?

I don't use a puller, just hold a mini sledge on one side and whack the other side with a regular hammer. This will shock the tapered pin loose in the tapered hole. You have to do it without hitting the threads on the tapered stud though, so leave the castle nut on loosely to protect the threads

 

[Richard RV]

I don't use a puller, just hold a mini sledge on one side and whack the other side with a regular hammer. This will shock the tapered pin loose in the tapered hole. You have to do it without hitting the threads on the tapered stud though, so leave the castle nut on loosely to protect the threads

Same, same. It works.

To paraphrase Sam Clemens, in desperate times when mechanical advantage lets you down, resort to violence.

 

[tmsnyder]

Same, same. It works.

To paraphrase Sam Clemens, in desperate times when mechanical advantage lets you down, resort to violence.

Or my favorite: When the only tool in your toolbox is a hammer, everything looks like a nail