Refrigerator

[dave thompson]

As a lurker on the digest, I have really learned a lot - thanks! The
(original) refrigerator on my '76 Eleganza recently decided to quit
working on 120v., but seems to still work fine on 12v. I suspect the
inverter assembly, maybe the contacts on the automatic voltage selector
switch, but am reluctant to tear into it not knowing anything about it.
A simple solution to the problem would seem to be to unplug the 120 - it
then works fine, and my Todd 40 amp charger should be able keep up with
the battery drain with no problem while on shore power. What worries me,
though, is if this is such an easy fix, why did they make it 120v/12v
instead of just 12v. in the first place? Assuming I'm overlooking some
problem with running it only on 12v, does anyone that recently replaced
their original refrigerator have a working inverter assembly they would
like to sell?
Dave Thompson
Gloster, LA

 

[richard waters]

Dave,
I sort of have the same problem with my OEM fridge. In my case both 120VAC
and 12VDC works. However, the relay that does the switching must be messed
up because at about 110 VAC it starts clicking. It's my guess that it is
switching back and forth between DC and AC at the wrong AC voltage. Rather
then mess with it much, because I'm getting a new fridge someday, I
installed an AC shutoff switch to disconnect AC to the fridge. I run most
of the time on DC now.

The only drawback seems to be that my TC40 charger fan runs more often. I'd
rather run on AC when connected to shore power, but I hate the clicking. I
wonder if the relay can be replaced or recalibrated easily.

I would also like a replacement inverter assembly if there was one
someplace.

This is one of the projects that I have scheduled for "one of these days."
Bottom line in my case is it seems to be OK to run exclusively on DC.
Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI

> As a lurker on the digest, I have really learned a lot - thanks! The
> (original) refrigerator on my '76 Eleganza recently decided to quit
> working on 120v., but seems to still work fine on 12v. I suspect the
> inverter assembly, maybe the contacts on the automatic voltage selector
> switch, but am reluctant to tear into it not knowing anything about it.
> A simple solution to the problem would seem to be to unplug the 120 - it
> then works fine, and my Todd 40 amp charger should be able keep up with
> the battery drain with no problem while on shore power. What worries me,
> though, is if this is such an easy fix, why did they make it 120v/12v
> instead of just 12v. in the first place? Assuming I'm overlooking some
> problem with running it only on 12v, does anyone that recently replaced
> their original refrigerator have a working inverter assembly they would
> like to sell?
> Dave Thompson
> Gloster, LA

 

[dave thompson]

Thanks for your feedback, Richard. I guess I'll just run it on 12v. and
keep my fingers crossed. I did like the workshop manual's advise on
troubleshooting the inverter assy. It said, in affect "replace the
inverter assembly with a new one. If the refrigerator works, leave the
new inverter assembly in place and discard the old one." This approach
would probably work on other problems as well, don't you think?
Dave

Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:18:59 -0400
From: Richard Waters
Subject: Re: GMC: Refrigerator

Dave,
I sort of have the same problem with my OEM fridge. In my case both
120VAC
and 12VDC works. However, the relay that does the switching must be
messed
up because at about 110 VAC it starts clicking. It's my guess that it
is
switching back and forth between DC and AC at the wrong AC voltage.
Rather
then mess with it much, because I'm getting a new fridge someday, I
installed an AC shutoff switch to disconnect AC to the fridge. I run
most
of the time on DC now.

The only drawback seems to be that my TC40 charger fan runs more often.
I'd
rather run on AC when connected to shore power, but I hate the
clicking. I
wonder if the relay can be replaced or recalibrated easily.

I would also like a replacement inverter assembly if there was one
someplace.

This is one of the projects that I have scheduled for "one of these
days."
Bottom line in my case is it seems to be OK to run exclusively on DC.
Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI

> As a lurker on the digest, I have really learned a lot - thanks! The
> (original) refrigerator on my '76 Eleganza recently decided to quit
> working on 120v., but seems to still work fine on 12v. I suspect the
> inverter assembly, maybe the contacts on the automatic voltage
selector
> switch, but am reluctant to tear into it not knowing anything about
it.
> A simple solution to the problem would seem to be to unplug the 120 -
it
> then works fine, and my Todd 40 amp charger should be able keep up
with
> the battery drain with no problem while on shore power. What worries
me,
> though, is if this is such an easy fix, why did they make it 120v/12v
> instead of just 12v. in the first place? Assuming I'm overlooking some

> problem with running it only on 12v, does anyone that recently
replaced
> their original refrigerator have a working inverter assembly they
would
> like to sell?
> Dave Thompson
> Gloster, LA