Greetings all --
One of this year's projects is the replacement of the original refrigerator
in our '77 Kingsley. It has 'sticky' compressor valves that allow it to run
without producing any head pressure and thereby cooling.
I've heard from a number of people who swear by LP units, but we seldom dry
camp long enough to deplete our battery string (a total of 4 6 volt golf
cart units, two front and two rear.)
New RV style units are $1,000 and up, but I've seen some very nice looking
GE 6.5 and 9.1 cu ft household refrigerators that only consume an amp to 1.5
amps. We don't use the built in vacuum, and a little wood working would
easily make one of these units fit nicely.
There are now some very efficient modified sine-wave 12 to 110 volt
inverters on the market. I even took a portable power back and an inverter
along and found that a 600 watt unit will easily handle the load (although I
didn't try it in a locked armature condition). It would seem easy enough to
put the inverter in the closet and power the refrigerator using 110 on that
circuit through the existing wiring.
Anyone else out there have any thoughts or suggestions? Pitfalls I haven't
considered?
This seems like such a simple solution. Have I missed something?
Thanks for your replies.
Mark Grady
mgrady
One of this year's projects is the replacement of the original refrigerator
in our '77 Kingsley. It has 'sticky' compressor valves that allow it to run
without producing any head pressure and thereby cooling.
I've heard from a number of people who swear by LP units, but we seldom dry
camp long enough to deplete our battery string (a total of 4 6 volt golf
cart units, two front and two rear.)
New RV style units are $1,000 and up, but I've seen some very nice looking
GE 6.5 and 9.1 cu ft household refrigerators that only consume an amp to 1.5
amps. We don't use the built in vacuum, and a little wood working would
easily make one of these units fit nicely.
There are now some very efficient modified sine-wave 12 to 110 volt
inverters on the market. I even took a portable power back and an inverter
along and found that a 600 watt unit will easily handle the load (although I
didn't try it in a locked armature condition). It would seem easy enough to
put the inverter in the closet and power the refrigerator using 110 on that
circuit through the existing wiring.
Anyone else out there have any thoughts or suggestions? Pitfalls I haven't
considered?
This seems like such a simple solution. Have I missed something?
Thanks for your replies.
Mark Grady
mgrady