Reassembling

[sgltrac]

Dollars to donuts it got a hose with a plug in it.

Sully
77 eleganza 2
Seattle

> > My biggest fear is about the fuel fill pipe. When the main (rear) tank
> was
> > removed, I hope they didn't do anything permanent to the fill pipe.
> >
> > What happened to the fill pipe? I thought you just had a weeping seam.
> >
> > Manny made a bunch of fuel cells. 50 gallon single tanks for the diesel.
> >
> > Sully
> > 77 eleganza 2
> > Seattle
>
>
> The previous owner removed the leaky tank and ran with just the one. I
> don't know yet how they plugged, capped, or sealed where the fill tube
> attached
> to the main tank. Hopefully nothing that can't be undone, I'd like to put
> the tank back in.
>
>
> --
> John in Omaha
> 74 26' Sequoia
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[jerry work]

John,

I'm surprised no one has mentioned that the radiator is grounded to the engine via the transmission oil cooler lines

Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
================

 

[johnny]

I'd take a piece of grounding strap, hook one end to the frame bolts and the other to one of the cooling adaptors, or any place on the radiator with a
fitting you can stick it under.
And this sends me back to the new used coach to check. Miguel fitted the aluminum radiator, so I'm sure it's grounded. But it dioesn't hurt to look
and confirm.

--johnny
--
'76 23' transmode Norris upfit, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.

"Sometimes I wonder what tomorrow's gonna bring when I think about my dirty life and times" --Warren Zevon

 

[robert mueller]

Jerry,

I would suggest stripping the insulation off a piece of wire 1 1/2" and sticking it under between the large hose and aluminum
radiator tube at the bottom of the aluminum radiator. Tighten the screw clamp. Tie wrap that wire to the hose as it runs to the
water pump. Crimp a connector to the end of that wire and connect it to one of the water pump retaining bolts. Fire up the engine
and make sure it there aren't any leaks.

Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Gerald Work
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2016 12:20 AM
To: GMC Motor Home Post
Subject: [GMCnet] Reassembling

I guess I should know, but don't...What is the proper grounding method for the aluminum radiator if one does not have steel lines
going from the radiator to the transmission?

Jerry
Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed and hand crafted in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building in historic Kerby, OR

 

[robert mueller]

Johnny,

The radiator should be grounded to the engine / transmission NOT the frame.

Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Johnny Bridges via Gmclist
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2016 1:54 AM
To: gmclist
Cc: Johnny Bridges
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Reassembling

I'd take a piece of grounding strap, hook one end to the frame bolts and the other to one of the cooling adaptors, or any place on
the radiator with a fitting you can stick it under.
And this sends me back to the new used coach to check. Miguel fitted the aluminum radiator, so I'm sure it's grounded. But it
dioesn't hurt to look and confirm.

--johnny

 

[johnny]

I usually agree with Rob. Not this time.
Given that the chassis and engine block are currently connect with a heavy strap, they are at the same potential. Consequently, using the radiator
frame as a ground will work quite well. Sticking a wire under a hose is, to me, a recipe for early failure of the hose as well as a potential leak,
due to unequal pressure on the hose. If you're determined to do this, however, use the top hose - some coolant will remain in the system even if a
leak appears. A leak at the lower hose outlet, being the lowest place in the system, will drain it entirely.

n.b. If your coach doesn't have a good ground run between the frame and the engine/transmission, put one. A lack of a good connection will result in
strange stray currents, some of which have the potential to Break Things.

--johnny
--
'76 23' transmode Norris upfit, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.

"Sometimes I wonder what tomorrow's gonna bring when I think about my dirty life and times" --Warren Zevon

 

[j artz]

Update time. The cooling system is now intact and full. New t-stat, gasket, bypass hose, and radiator hoses. Heater fittings are capped off, just til
I get it home. Engine sounds good, good oil pressure, but no charge from the alternator. I've got two batteries to run on, so a daytime trip should be
fine, it's only a little over 100 miles. Brake pedal feels good, trans goes into gear, haven't tried to move it yet as there's a pallet of bricks in
the way that has to get moved first.

New air pressure switch is in, and the compressor turns on and off now like it should. Still running the original wiring circuit, I'll rewire with a
relay once it's home and easier to work on. There's a slow leak somewhere, with the controls set to travel the compressor kicks back on for a bit
after about 10-15 minutes. Again, can wait til it's here.

However, what can't wait is a new fuel pump. Leaks like a sieve. Of course, that had to wait to make itself known until after the radiator was back
in. Previous owner tells me there's a new pump in the dinette storage, great! Wait, not so great.. the new pump is a 3 line pump, the one on it is a 2
line. So ordered another pump last night, more crawling around underneath it next weekend. And hopefully getting it to move under it's own power.

Little by little...
--
John in Omaha
74 26' Sequoia

 

[LQQKatJon]

make sure there is no fuel in the oil from the fuel pump issue. there is possibility a bad diaphragm on a mechanical pump will allow fuel to be
pumped into the timing chain area and down to the oil pan.


someone can chime in for sure, but that 3 port fuel pump could have that 3rd port plugged off. that third port is a backflow, and a hose can also
be routed back over to gas filler. some people actually T it into the ventline for the gas filler on purpose. Just information for the next gmc you
rescue, and can only find that 3 port pump.

100 miles should be no issue with no charge voltage during the daytime, or look up some trouble shooting. maybe it is the isolator that went bad,
we had that problem one one coach. That is an easy work around. I am guessing the generator is a no-start future problem, that is the other work
around. If you have a small honda, you could always strap that to the bumper. a quick jumper wire to energize the boost solenoid(up front) will
allow the engine to run off the house system.\

Alternator is an easy swap. not difficult to change out at all, but make sure it is the alternator that is the problem and not isolator or other
wiring problem.

good luck will be looking forward to the report next monday that it is in your driveway!

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/

 

[Ken B]

That all sounds real good.

What bother's me is you comment about no Alternator. If that failure is because of an open diode in the isolator you could be sending extremely high
voltage to the house side of things while not getting any voltage to the engine side.

Please take a voltmeter and probe the isolator with the engine running. Use the aluminum plate that the isolator is mounted on for your negative
lead. The probe all three isolator terminals (one at a time) and make sure that you do not have any voltage over 15 volts.

Those terminals are set up to be the top and bottom are the two battery systems (house and engine). The middle terminal is the alternator output.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[j artz]

> That all sounds real good.
>
> What bother's me is you comment about no Alternator. If that failure us because of an open diode in the isolator you could be sending extremely
> high voltage to the house side of things while not getting any voltage to the engine side.
>
> Please take a voltmeter and probe the isolator with the engine running. Use the aluminum plate that the isolator is mounted on for your negative
> lead. The probe all three isolator terminals (one at a time) and make sure that you do not have any voltage over 15 volts.
>
> Those terminals are set up to be the top and bottom are the two battery systems (house and engine). The middle terminal is the alternator output.

Of course about the only tool I didn't have with me was my multimeter. The other complication I ran into is that there are 5 battery cable ends at the
battery tray! One looks like an add-on ground cable, bolted to the frame behind the grille. I may bypass the isolator and just run an engine battery,
keeping the other battery disconnected for emergency use. I can repair and rewire everything once it's home. I've rewired plenty of older cars to take
a modern GM alternator, shouldn't be too hard to straighten out one that's GM to start with.

Guess time will tell, since I've only got one day a week to work on it. Unless I give up and have it towed, which I'd really rather not do...

--
John in Omaha
74 26' Sequoia

 

[j artz]

> make sure there is no fuel in the oil from the fuel pump issue. there is possibility a bad diaphragm on a mechanical pump will allow fuel to be
> pumped into the timing chain area and down to the oil pan.
>
>
> someone can chime ie, but that 3 port fuel pump could have that 3rd port plugged off. that third port is a backflow, and a hose can also be
> routed back over to gas filler. some people actually T it into the ventline for the gas filler on purpose. Just information for the next gmc you
> rescue, and can only find that 3 port pump.
>
> 100 miles should be no issue with no charge voltage during the daytime, or look up some trouble shooting. maybe it is the isolator that went
> bad, we had that problem one one coach. That is an easy work around. I am guessing the generator is a no-start future problem, that is the
> other work around. If you have a small honda, you could always strap that to the bumper. a quick jumper wire to energize the boost solenoid(up
> front) will allow the engine to run off the house system.
>
> Alternator is an easy swap. not difficult to change out at all, but make sure it is the alternator that is the problem and not isolator or other
> wiring problem.
>
> good luck will be looking forward to the report next monday that it is in your driveway!

I'm hoping for next Monday, we'll see! Yeah, generator hasn't been run in 5 or 6 years, no fuel supply since they took out the main tank. So
definitely a future project. Only good part is the generator only has 150 hours on it, was replaced for the second time around 10 years ago. Planning
to drain the oil anyway, already replaced the filter when I took off the oil cooler adapter.

--
John in Omaha
74 26' Sequoia

 

[emerystora]

John
You can crimp off the third tube and solder or braze the end and it will work fine.

Emery Stora

>
> Update time. The cooling system is now intact and full. New t-stat, gasket, bypass hose, and radiator hoses. Heater fittings are capped off, just til
> I get it home. Engine sounds good, good oil pressure, but no charge from the alternator. I've got two batteries to run on, so a daytime trip should be
> fine, it's only a little over 100 miles. Brake pedal feels good, trans goes into gear, haven't tried to move it yet as there's a pallet of bricks in
> the way that has to get moved first.
>
> New air pressure switch is in, and the compressor turns on and off now like it should. Still running the original wiring circuit, I'll rewire with a
> relay once it's home and easier to work on. There's a slow leak somewhere, with the controls set to travel the compressor kicks back on for a bit
> after about 10-15 minutes. Again, can wait til it's here.
>
> However, what can't wait is a new fuel pump. Leaks like a sieve. Of course, that had to wait to make itself known until after the radiator was back
> in. Previous owner tells me there's a new pump in the dinette storage, great! Wait, not so great.. the new pump is a 3 line pump, the one on it is a 2
> line. So ordered another pump last night, more crawling around underneath it next weekend. And hopefully getting it to move under it's own power.
>
> Little by little...
> --
> John in Omaha
> 74 26' Sequoia
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Jim Hupy]

Emery, on our cross Canada trip, I had a mechanical fuel pump with the 3rd
line blocked with a neoprene cap fail. The whole tube cracked where it was
crimped into the top if the pump. We were in Pokahantus campground in the
Canadian Rockies at the time. Waaaaay out in the boondocks. Had to do field
repairs involving buying a tap drill, hack saw, pipe tap, and proper sized
plug and J.B. WELD. It didn't seal with the gasoline. Finally used several
wraps of Teflon tape that did seal. I only install two line pumps now. That
was in bear and moose country. Saw several during our stay there. Kinda
wondered whether a bear was going to drag me out from under the coach while
I worked on it.
True GMC story.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or.

> John
> You can crimp off the third tube and solder or braze the end and it will
> work fine.
>
> Emery Stora
>
>

> >
> > Update time. The cooling system is now intact and full. New t-stat,
> gasket, bypass hose, and radiator hoses. Heater fittings are capped off,
> just til
> > I get it home. Engine sounds good, good oil pressure, but no charge from
> the alternator. I've got two batteries to run on, so a daytime trip should
> be
> > fine, it's only a little over 100 miles. Brake pedal feels good, trans
> goes into gear, haven't tried to move it yet as there's a pallet of bricks
> in
> > the way that has to get moved first.
> >
> > New air pressure switch is in, and the compressor turns on and off now
> like it should. Still running the original wiring circuit, I'll rewire with
> a
> > relay once it's home and easier to work on. There's a slow leak
> somewhere, with the controls set to travel the compressor kicks back on for
> a bit
> > after about 10-15 minutes. Again, can wait til it's here.
> >
> > However, what can't wait is a new fuel pump. Leaks like a sieve. Of
> course, that had to wait to make itself known until after the radiator was
> back
> > in. Previous owner tells me there's a new pump in the dinette storage,
> great! Wait, not so great.. the new pump is a 3 line pump, the one on it is
> a 2
> > line. So ordered another pump last night, more crawling around
> underneath it next weekend. And hopefully getting it to move under it's
> own power.
> >
> > Little by little...
> > --
> > John in Omaha
> > 74 26' Sequoia
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[emerystora]

Funny how something works fine for one person but not for another.
I ran a pump with the brazed end for a few years prior to putting on fuel injection and it worked fine.
I would never use a rubber or plastic cap clamped in place as they can get old and fail and one would be pumping gasoline back onto the hot exhaust manifold.

Emery Stora

>
> Emery, on our cross Canada trip, I had a mechanical fuel pump with the 3rd
> line blocked with a neoprene cap fail. The whole tube cracked where it was
> crimped into the top if the pump. We were in Pokahantus campground in the
> Canadian Rockies at the time. Waaaaay out in the boondocks. Had to do field
> repairs involving buying a tap drill, hack saw, pipe tap, and proper sized
> plug and J.B. WELD. It didn't seal with the gasoline. Finally used several
> wraps of Teflon tape that did seal. I only install two line pumps now. That
> was in bear and moose country. Saw several during our stay there. Kinda
> wondered whether a bear was going to drag me out from under the coach while
> I worked on it.
> True GMC story.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or.

>
>> John
>> You can crimp off the third tube and solder or braze the end and it will
>> work fine.
>>
>> Emery Stora
>>
>>

>>>
>>> Update time. The cooling system is now intact and full. New t-stat,
>> gasket, bypass hose, and radiator hoses. Heater fittings are capped off,
>> just til
>>> I get it home. Engine sounds good, good oil pressure, but no charge from
>> the alternator. I've got two batteries to run on, so a daytime trip should
>> be
>>> fine, it's only a little over 100 miles. Brake pedal feels good, trans
>> goes into gear, haven't tried to move it yet as there's a pallet of bricks
>> in
>>> the way that has to get moved first.
>>>
>>> New air pressure switch is in, and the compressor turns on and off now
>> like it should. Still running the original wiring circuit, I'll rewire with
>> a
>>> relay once it's home and easier to work on. There's a slow leak
>> somewhere, with the controls set to travel the compressor kicks back on for
>> a bit
>>> after about 10-15 minutes. Again, can wait til it's here.
>>>
>>> However, what can't wait is a new fuel pump. Leaks like a sieve. Of
>> course, that had to wait to make itself known until after the radiator was
>> back
>>> in. Previous owner tells me there's a new pump in the dinette storage,
>> great! Wait, not so great.. the new pump is a 3 line pump, the one on it is
>> a 2
>>> line. So ordered another pump last night, more crawling around
>> underneath it next weekend. And hopefully getting it to move under it's
>> own power.
>>>
>>> Little by little...
>>> --
>>> John in Omaha
>>> 74 26' Sequoia
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Jim Hupy]

I never thought that third tube would fail, but, it sure did. Much more
likely that the rubber tubing will fail. I still have that pump, keep it
for show and tell at rallies.
Jim Hupy

> Funny how something works fine for one person but not for another.
> I ran a pump with the brazed end for a few years prior to putting on fuel
> injection and it worked fine.
> I would never use a rubber or plastic cap clamped in place as they can get
> old and fail and one would be pumping gasoline back onto the hot exhaust
> manifold.
>
> Emery Stora
>

> >
> > Emery, on our cross Canada trip, I had a mechanical fuel pump with the
> 3rd
> > line blocked with a neoprene cap fail. The whole tube cracked where it
> was
> > crimped into the top if the pump. We were in Pokahantus campground in the
> > Canadian Rockies at the time. Waaaaay out in the boondocks. Had to do
> field
> > repairs involving buying a tap drill, hack saw, pipe tap, and proper
> sized
> > plug and J.B. WELD. It didn't seal with the gasoline. Finally used
> several
> > wraps of Teflon tape that did seal. I only install two line pumps now.
> That
> > was in bear and moose country. Saw several during our stay there. Kinda
> > wondered whether a bear was going to drag me out from under the coach
> while
> > I worked on it.
> > True GMC story.
> > Jim Hupy
> > Salem, Or.

> >
> >> John
> >> You can crimp off the third tube and solder or braze the end and it will
> >> work fine.
> >>
> >> Emery Stora
> >>
> >>

> >>>
> >>> Update time. The cooling system is now intact and full. New t-stat,
> >> gasket, bypass hose, and radiator hoses. Heater fittings are capped off,
> >> just til
> >>> I get it home. Engine sounds good, good oil pressure, but no charge
> from
> >> the alternator. I've got two batteries to run on, so a daytime trip
> should
> >> be
> >>> fine, it's only a little over 100 miles. Brake pedal feels good, trans
> >> goes into gear, haven't tried to move it yet as there's a pallet of
> bricks
> >> in
> >>> the way that has to get moved first.
> >>>
> >>> New air pressure switch is in, and the compressor turns on and off now
> >> like it should. Still running the original wiring circuit, I'll rewire
> with
> >> a
> >>> relay once it's home and easier to work on. There's a slow leak
> >> somewhere, with the controls set to travel the compressor kicks back on
> for
> >> a bit
> >>> after about 10-15 minutes. Again, can wait til it's here.
> >>>
> >>> However, what can't wait is a new fuel pump. Leaks like a sieve. Of
> >> course, that had to wait to make itself known until after the radiator
> was
> >> back
> >>> in. Previous owner tells me there's a new pump in the dinette storage,
> >> great! Wait, not so great.. the new pump is a 3 line pump, the one on
> it is
> >> a 2
> >>> line. So ordered another pump last night, more crawling around
> >> underneath it next weekend. And hopefully getting it to move under it's
> >> own power.
> >>>
> >>> Little by little...
> >>> --
> >>> John in Omaha
> >>> 74 26' Sequoia
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> GMCnet mailing list
> >>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>