Reassembling

J

j artz

New member
Sep 2, 2016
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Radiator is back in place, still hoses to hook up. Removed the oil cooler adapter and steel lines, the adapter retaining bolt was only finger tight.
Explains how dirty the engine is back there.

Big question for you folks, were the trans cooler tubes originally all metal? One is metal, the other had a piece of hose clamped to the tubing right
behind the radiator. Both ends of that tube had flares, but no nuts so I'm thinking somebody cut out a section and flared the cut ends to give a
better seal on the hose. A new steel line from the radiator to the cut end, and a compression fitting to join the two should do it. The cooler
pressure is low enough, a compression fitting should be fine.

Pulled the heater hoses and capped the engine fittings for now. The coach has the lines running back to the water heater, not sure if I'll bother with
those since the seller said the hot water heater is disconnected as it leaked. Doubt that many new heaters have a coolant fed preheater. Repaired some
12v ignition wiring, tried to make some sense out of the vacuum hoses. That's going to be a job for later, the ones that are left are all connected,
empty connectors are capped off.

Still have to replace the air pressure switch, it sat right where the bolts go to hold the radiator saddle and didn't look healthy. The placement of
the switch is really odd, can't imagine why the mounting bracket is welded in place when there's no room to rotate the switch to thread it into the
fitting. The plan is to use a 90° fitting to swing it to the driver's side.

All in all, a productive day. Still couldn't run the engine for long, but did put it in gear and feel the trans engage. With luck, next week it moves
under it's own power.

Thanks again for everybody's input!

John

--
John in Omaha
74 26' Sequoia
 
John

Yes, the original transmission cooler lines were all metal.

Instead of working on the pressure switch you could install Schrader valves in each airbag and direct inflate them for the drive home.

Dennis

> Radiator is back in place, still hoses to hook up. Removed the oil cooler adapter and steel lines, the adapter retaining bolt was only finger
> tight. Explains how dirty the engine is back there.
>
> Big question for you folks, were the trans cooler tubes originally all metal? One is metal, the other had a piece of hose clamped to the tubing
> right behind the radiator. Both ends of that tube had flares, but no nuts so I'm thinking somebody cut out a section and flared the cut ends to
> give a better seal on the hose. A new steel line from the radiator to the cut end, and a compression fitting to join the two should do it. The
> cooler pressure is low enough, a compression fitting should be fine.
>
> Pulled the heater hoses and capped the engine fittings for now. The coach has the lines running back to the water heater, not sure if I'll bother
> with those since the seller said the hot water heater is disconnected as it leaked. Doubt that many new heaters have a coolant fed preheater.
> Repaired some 12v ignition wiring, tried to make some sense out of the vacuum hoses. That's going to be a job for later, the ones that are left are
> all connected, empty connectors are capped off.
>
> Still have to replace the air pressure switch, it sat right where the bolts go to hold the radiator saddle and didn't look healthy. The placement
> of the switch is really odd, can't imagine why the mounting bracket is welded in place when there's no room to rotate the switch to thread it into
> the fitting. The plan is to use a 90° fitting to swing it to the driver's side.
>
> All in all, a productive day. Still couldn't run the engine for long, but did put it in gear and feel the trans engage. With luck, next week it
> moves under it's own power.
>
> Thanks again for everybody's input!
>
> John

--
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
 
Depending upon the model of water heater, modern ones do come with the engine hot water heating option. Still used in many applications. Major leaks
in the water heater area may be a result of water standing inside the water heater and expanding in your brisk Nebraska winters. Ice can split the
tank.
Tom, MS II

--
1975 GMC Avion
KA4CSG
 
John,
They all came with full steel lines from the factory.

> Radiator is back in place, still hoses to hook up. Removed the oil cooler
> adapter and steel lines, the adapter retaining bolt was only finger tight.
> Explains how dirty the engine is back there.
>
> Big question for you folks, were the trans cooler tubes originally all
> metal? One is metal, the other had a piece of hose clamped to the tubing
> right
> behind the radiator. Both ends of that tube had flares, but no nuts so
> I'm thinking somebody cut out a section and flared the cut ends to give a
> better seal on the hose. A new steel line from the radiator to the cut
> end, and a compression fitting to join the two should do it. The cooler
> pressure is low enough, a compression fitting should be fine.
>
> Pulled the heater hoses and capped the engine fittings for now. The coach
> has the lines running back to the water heater, not sure if I'll bother with
> those since the seller said the hot water heater is disconnected as it
> leaked. Doubt that many new heaters have a coolant fed preheater. Repaired
> some
> 12v ignition wiring, tried to make some sense out of the vacuum hoses.
> That's going to be a job for later, the ones that are left are all
> connected,
> empty connectors are capped off.
>
> Still have to replace the air pressure switch, it sat right where the
> bolts go to hold the radiator saddle and didn't look healthy. The placement
> of
> the switch is really odd, can't imagine why the mounting bracket is welded
> in place when there's no room to rotate the switch to thread it into the
> fitting. The plan is to use a 90° fitting to swing it to the driver's side.
>
> All in all, a productive day. Still couldn't run the engine for long, but
> did put it in gear and feel the trans engage. With luck, next week it moves
> under it's own power.
>
> Thanks again for everybody's input!
>
> John
>
> --
> John in Omaha
> 74 26' Sequoia
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Thanks, I figured they probably should be metal, even if only for a little extra cooling from being exposed to airflow under the coach. I'll pick up a
piece of 5/16" steel tubing before heading down there again.

Thought of another question - how repairable are seam leaks on these fuel tanks? The seller removed the main tank because it was leaking at the side
seam, but still has the tank. Don't know which route would be more cost effective, having the old one repaired or trying to find a used tank....

John
--
John in Omaha
74 26' Sequoia
 
It would be best if you upsize the lines from 5/16 to 3/8 inch tubing. This has been done by a lot of us, including me on all the coaches that I owned or own.
You can get the adapters for the transmission end from Jim K. and they are not expensive and the radiator end will take a 3/8 inch tubing fitting when you take the adapter out.

JR Wright
Michigan

>
> Thanks, I figured they probably should be metal, even if only for a little extra cooling from being exposed to airflow under the coach. I'll pick up a
> piece of 5/16" steel tubing before heading down there again.
>
> Thought of another question - how repairable are seam leaks on these fuel tanks? The seller removed the main tank because it was leaking at the side
> seam, but still has the tank. Don't know which route would be more cost effective, having the old one repaired or trying to find a used tank....
>
>
> John
> --
> John in Omaha
> 74 26' Sequoia
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
I do not like the heater lines being capped. I believe that you still need the coolant flowing from the back of the engine to keep the manifold and
heads cooled. I would run a hose between the two ports instead of capping them.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
I would have a good welding shop braze the ends by filling the tank with
water to avoid explosion of the gas fumes.

> Thanks, I figured they probably should be metal, even if only for a little
> extra cooling from being exposed to airflow under the coach. I'll pick up a
> piece of 5/16" steel tubing before heading down there again.
>
> Thought of another question - how repairable are seam leaks on these fuel
> tanks? The seller removed the main tank because it was leaking at the side
> seam, but still has the tank. Don't know which route would be more cost
> effective, having the old one repaired or trying to find a used tank....
>
>
> John
> --
> John in Omaha
> 74 26' Sequoia
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
I've not had very good luck with water in a tank while welding. There are small air pockets that can make for a REALLY BAD day. I hate to do tanks
but if absolutely necessary I'll purge the tank with CO2 before, and during the welding process. In fact, I'll run the CO2 for a good 15 minutes
before starting. Once you've had one blow up in your face you'll always be a little gun shy.
Hal
--
1977 Royale 101348,

1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,

1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout
 
John,

I'm surprised no one has mentioned that the radiator is grounded to the engine via the transmission oil cooler lines

Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426

-----Original Message-----
From: J Artz

Thanks, I figured they probably should be metal, even if only for a little extra cooling from being exposed to airflow under the
coach. I'll pick up a piece of 5/16" steel tubing before heading down there again.

Thought of another question - how repairable are seam leaks on these fuel tanks? The seller removed the main tank because it was
leaking at the side seam, but still has the tank. Don't know which route would be more cost effective, having the old one repaired
or trying to find a used tank....

John
 
If you look in the tank, and you feel your only problem is the outside edges/seams. I would not hesitate to use the por-15 gas tank kit. You can
easily rotate the tank around and get the por-15 to seal up the outside edges. It is a process, but it should work well if it just the seams
leaking.

if the whole inside of the tank is rotted, then I would believe that method would not work well due to trying to get the por-15 in contact with all
surfaces short of cutting open the tank.

there are places that refurbish tanks, but that is costly, and is getting up there with the price of new tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-49239-Auto-Fuel-Repair/dp/B000H9K4K0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1473782908&sr=8-4&keywords=por-15+gas+tank+sealer

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
Didn't somebody - maybe Manny - have some new tanks made a while back?

--johnny
--
'76 23' transmode Norris upfit, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.

"Sometimes I wonder what tomorrow's gonna bring when I think about my dirty life and times" --Warren Zevon
 
> John,
>
> I'm surprised no one has mentioned that the radiator is grounded to the engine via the transmission oil cooler lines
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> USAussie - Downunder
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426

...Or the braised stainless steel engine oil cooler lines (if you have them).
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging
 
some larger industrial radiator shops also repair gas tanks. If there is
one in your area that re cores radiators for heavy equipment you might
inquire there for your tank seam repair.

sully
77 eleganza 2
seattle

> > John,
> >
> > I'm surprised no one has mentioned that the radiator is grounded to the
> engine via the transmission oil cooler lines
> >
> > Regards,
> > Rob M.
> > USAussie - Downunder
> > AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> > USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
>
>
> ...Or the braised stainless steel engine oil cooler lines (if you have
> them).
> --
> Carl Stouffer
> '75 ex Palm Beach
> Tucson, AZ.
> Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive,
> Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American
> Eagles,
> Solar battery charging
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
This is just temporary, it'll only stay this way for 100 miles or so. Once it's here, I can deal with checking the heater core and replacing the
hoses. Back in the 60s when you could order cars without heaters, the engine fittings were left off and threaded plugs fitted.

> I do not like the heater lines being capped. I believe that you still need the coolant flowing from the back of the engine to keep the manifold
> and heads cooled. I would run a hose between the two ports instead of capping them.

--
John in Omaha
74 26' Sequoia
 
> some larger industrial radiator shops also repair gas tanks. If there is
> one in your area that re cores radiators for heavy equipment you might
> inquire there for your tank seam repair.
>
> sully
> 77 eleganza 2

The shop that did the radiator recore also does gas tanks, so once the coach and the tank are both here I'll get an estimate. Not sure if the tanks
are unique to the motorhome chassis or if they used an existing tank.

My biggest fear is about the fuel fill pipe. When the main (rear) tank was removed, I hope they didn't do anything permanent to the fill pipe.

--
John in Omaha
74 26' Sequoia
 
I believe the tanks are unique to the vehicle. Any good welding shop ought to be able to duplicate the fill pipe without a lot of trouble.

--johnny
--
'76 23' transmode Norris upfit, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.

"Sometimes I wonder what tomorrow's gonna bring when I think about my dirty life and times" --Warren Zevon
 
> Thanks, I figured they probably should be metal, even if only for a little extra cooling from being exposed to airflow under the coach. I'll pick
> up a piece of 5/16" steel tubing before heading down there again.
>
> Thought of another question - how repairable are seam leaks on these fuel tanks? The seller removed the main tank because it was leaking at the
> side seam, but still has the tank. Don't know which route would be more cost effective, having the old one repaired or trying to find a used
> tank....
>
>
> John

If you are only trying to get it home you can do a quick temporary fix with a bar of Ivory soap. Just rub it into the bad spot and it'll stop the
leak. May sound crazy but it works, I've done it before for a quick temp solution. Hal
--
1977 Royale 101348,

1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,

1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout
 
My biggest fear is about the fuel fill pipe. When the main (rear) tank was
removed, I hope they didn't do anything permanent to the fill pipe.

What happened to the fill pipe? I thought you just had a weeping seam.

Manny made a bunch of fuel cells. 50 gallon single tanks for the diesel.

Sully
77 eleganza 2
Seattle

On Tuesday, September 13, 2016, Hal StClair
wrote:

> > Thanks, I figured they probably should be metal, even if only for a
> little extra cooling from being exposed to airflow under the coach. I'll
> pick
> > up a piece of 5/16" steel tubing before heading down there again.
> >
> > Thought of another question - how repairable are seam leaks on these
> fuel tanks? The seller removed the main tank because it was leaking at the
> > side seam, but still has the tank. Don't know which route would be more
> cost effective, having the old one repaired or trying to find a used
> > tank....
> >
> >
> > John
>
> If you are only trying to get it home you can do a quick temporary fix
> with a bar of Ivory soap. Just rub it into the bad spot and it'll stop the
> leak. May sound crazy but it works, I've done it before for a quick temp
> solution. Hal
> --
> 1977 Royale 101348,
>
> 1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,
>
> 1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
> My biggest fear is about the fuel fill pipe. When the main (rear) tank was
> removed, I hope they didn't do anything permanent to the fill pipe.
>
> What happened to the fill pipe? I thought you just had a weeping seam.
>
> Manny made a bunch of fuel cells. 50 gallon single tanks for the diesel.
>
> Sully
> 77 eleganza 2
> Seattle

The previous owner removed the leaky tank and ran with just the one. I don't know yet how they plugged, capped, or sealed where the fill tube attached
to the main tank. Hopefully nothing that can't be undone, I'd like to put the tank back in.

--
John in Omaha
74 26' Sequoia
 
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