Rear Ride Height Adjustment

[tmaki1]

It's probably a an old topic, but could someone please
detail the procedure for adjusting the rear ride height. I've
memorized the procedure in the GM maintenance
manual, but I do not understand what to do, or what
loosening the little nut on the arm is supposed to do. The
manual just says to loosen this nut, and then goes on to
say that the arm moves independently of the valve shaft,
etc., and that when correct height is achieved, to tighten
nut.

I've studied the ride height valve maintenance procedures
and illustrations trying to understand how loosening the
nut adjusts the ride height. I'm not getting it.

Can somebody give me a 1, 2, 3, . . . on how to do this?

Not that is has anything to do with it, but I just got around
to installing the new KYB shocks on the front. Got a dead
on 13" ride height on both sides from 12-5/8" on one side
and 12-1/4" on the other. And it cleared up a pronounced
diagonal mushiness. Nice, straight, firm stops and no
mush. Makes almost as much difference as putting on the
Alcoa wheels and steel radial tires.

TIA for any info on rear ride adjustment.

Toby Maki
'73 Glacier 230

P.S. As long as I'm asking, does anybody know off the
top of their head who has PAR fresh water pump repair
kits (valves, belt, etc.) Or does anyone have a base
assembly (or complete pump) they want to get rid of? I
took mine apart today to fix a leak (valves shot), and two
of the bolts broke off in the plastic body. Easy enough to
drill out and retap, but another one might not be bad to
have around.

Thanks!

 

[dave mumert]

Hi
I have not adjusted the ride height but my take on the procedure in the
manual is that loosening the nut allows the lever connected to the bogie to
move in relation to the lever on the valve.

After loosing the nut set the ride height manually using the control valves
or switches on the dash, then move the little lever on the ride height
control until it is in the neutral position (not putting air in and not
letting air out), then tighten the nut. You should also be able to control
the height by moving the height control lever.

The valve probably has a neutral zone of several degrees. Try to be sure
the valve is in the center of the neutral zone before tightening the nut.

If the ride height is close to where it is supposed to be you may be able to
use a bottle jack to raise it to the exact position.

Dave Mumert

----- Original Message -----
From: "T Maki"

> I've studied the ride height valve maintenance procedures
> and illustrations trying to understand how loosening the
> nut adjusts the ride height. I'm not getting it.
>

 

[jim bounds1]

Toby,

The nut they refer to on the arm is not in a hole, it is in a slot and
loosening the nut will allow the arm to move independent of the valve a
little. This is how you adjust the ride height.

Using your up & down settings on the air ride system, bring your coach to
the level pictured in the book (I can't remember the numbers). Loosen the
7/16 nut on the arm and allow the valve to go to its "center rest"
position. Retighten the 7/16 nut and repeat this procedure on the other
side, you are done.

Isn't it interesting that in an attempt to explain a subject as accuratly
as possible we many time complicate things beyond our ability to comprehend!

Hope this helps,

Jim Bounds
--------------------------

>It's probably a an old topic, but could someone please
>detail the procedure for adjusting the rear ride height. I've
>memorized the procedure in the GM maintenance
>manual, but I do not understand what to do, or what
>loosening the little nut on the arm is supposed to do. The
>manual just says to loosen this nut, and then goes on to
>say that the arm moves independently of the valve shaft,
>etc., and that when correct height is achieved, to tighten
>nut.
>
>I've studied the ride height valve maintenance procedures
>and illustrations trying to understand how loosening the
>nut adjusts the ride height. I'm not getting it.
>
>Can somebody give me a 1, 2, 3, . . . on how to do this?
>
>Not that is has anything to do with it, but I just got around
>to installing the new KYB shocks on the front. Got a dead
>on 13" ride height on both sides from 12-5/8" on one side
>and 12-1/4" on the other. And it cleared up a pronounced
>diagonal mushiness. Nice, straight, firm stops and no
>mush. Makes almost as much difference as putting on the
>Alcoa wheels and steel radial tires.
>
>TIA for any info on rear ride adjustment.
>
>
>Toby Maki
>'73 Glacier 230
>
>P.S. As long as I'm asking, does anybody know off the
>top of their head who has PAR fresh water pump repair
>kits (valves, belt, etc.) Or does anyone have a base
>assembly (or complete pump) they want to get rid of? I
>took mine apart today to fix a leak (valves shot), and two
>of the bolts broke off in the plastic body. Easy enough to
>drill out and retap, but another one might not be bad to
>have around.
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------
>To unsubscribe, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-unsubscribe
>For additional commands, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-help
>
>
>

 

[emerystora]

>Toby,
>
>The nut they refer to on the arm is not in a hole, it is in a slot and
>loosening the nut will allow the arm to move independent of the valve a
>little. This is how you adjust the ride height.
>
>Using your up & down settings on the air ride system, bring your coach to
>the level pictured in the book (I can't remember the numbers). Loosen the
>7/16 nut on the arm and allow the valve to go to its "center rest"
>position. Retighten the 7/16 nut and repeat this procedure on the other
>side, you are done.
>
>Isn't it interesting that in an attempt to explain a subject as accuratly
>as possible we many time complicate things beyond our ability to comprehend!
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Jim Bounds

Good explanation, Jim. Also, on very rare occasions it has been
necessary to file the slot longer in order to bring a coach to the
proper height; although, if Toby has to do this he might want to
first check for bent parts.

Also, after adjusting it, be sure to put some sealant into the slot
on both sides of the bolt to make sure that water can't be splashed
into the interior of the GMC by the tires rolling on a wet pavement.
It's amazing how much water can be forced through a 1/4" diameter
hole. My whole floor was flooded between the kitchen and bath while
driving through a rainstorm. I later found that a 1/4" bolt was
missing from a clamp holding one of the fuel hoses going to the
separator valve.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM