Rear ramps for the front?

[bbraaf]

Question about the ramp construction shown in the standard ramp design shown in this thread. The materials list shows 2x8's and some smaller wood.
But the dwg shows the ramp width to be 10 inches. Are the 2x4 and 2x6's spread enough to make the 10 inch width? Does that make them stick out wider
than the 2x8's, or you really using 2x10's or 2x12's? How stable (side to side) are the ones made from 2x8's? Seems like they would be right at the
width of, or overhung by, the tires?

Bob Braaf
'76 Eleganza II

 

[dave stragand1]

I think it is much easier to just use 2x10s. That’s what I used and it’s fine for front or rear.

-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh

>
> Question about the ramp construction shown in the standard ramp design shown in this thread. The materials list shows 2x8's and some smaller wood.
> But the dwg shows the ramp width to be 10 inches. Are the 2x4 and 2x6's spread enough to make the 10 inch width? Does that make them stick out wider
> than the 2x8's, or you really using 2x10's or 2x12's? How stable (side to side) are the ones made from 2x8's? Seems like they would be right at the
> width of, or overhung by, the tires?
>
> Bob Braaf
> '76 Eleganza II
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:

 

[Bruce Hart]

I used to have the Rino ramps. Last time I used them was when I backed down
and I gave it a little too much gas and shot the ramps 25 feet out in front
of the coach, I was on the street with a fairly steep grade so I had to
give it some gas to back down off of ramps.

> I think it is much easier to just use 2x10s. That’s what I used and it’s
> fine for front or rear.
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
>

> >
> > Question about the ramp construction shown in the standard ramp design
> shown in this thread. The materials list shows 2x8's and some smaller
> wood.
> > But the dwg shows the ramp width to be 10 inches. Are the 2x4 and 2x6's
> spread enough to make the 10 inch width? Does that make them stick out
> wider
> > than the 2x8's, or you really using 2x10's or 2x12's? How stable (side
> to side) are the ones made from 2x8's? Seems like they would be right at
> the
> > width of, or overhung by, the tires?
> >
> > Bob Braaf
> > '76 Eleganza II
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
LaGrange, Wyoming
GMC=Genetically Modified Chevy

 

[Jim Hupy]

My professional opinion goes like this:
2 ea. 6 ton rated steel jack stands for the front, positioned on the frame
where the front clip bolts to the frame rails. (Not Harbour freight)
4 ea. 3 ton rated steel jack stands on the rear of the coach, positioned
where the cross members intersect with the side rails both before and after
the rear suspension.
This is assuming the coach is on a level concrete floor.
If you are on gravel or sod, you are on your own.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

> I used to have the Rino ramps. Last time I used them was when I backed down
> and I gave it a little too much gas and shot the ramps 25 feet out in front
> of the coach, I was on the street with a fairly steep grade so I had to
> give it some gas to back down off of ramps.
>

>
> > I think it is much easier to just use 2x10s. That’s what I used and it’s
> > fine for front or rear.
> >
> > -Dave
> > 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
> >

> > >
> > > Question about the ramp construction shown in the standard ramp design
> > shown in this thread. The materials list shows 2x8's and some smaller
> > wood.
> > > But the dwg shows the ramp width to be 10 inches. Are the 2x4 and
> 2x6's
> > spread enough to make the 10 inch width? Does that make them stick out
> > wider
> > > than the 2x8's, or you really using 2x10's or 2x12's? How stable (side
> > to side) are the ones made from 2x8's? Seems like they would be right at
> > the
> > > width of, or overhung by, the tires?
> > >
> > > Bob Braaf
> > > '76 Eleganza II
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> LaGrange, Wyoming
> GMC=Genetically Modified Chevy
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>

 

[dave stragand1]

Which brings up a great question. For those of us who have to work on gravel or asphalt, the jack stands need to be placed on something. What is the best option? Plywood, 2x10s, concrete patio blocks or something else?

-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh

>
> My professional opinion goes like this:
> 2 ea. 6 ton rated steel jack stands for the front, positioned on the frame
> where the front clip bolts to the frame rails. (Not Harbour freight)
> 4 ea. 3 ton rated steel jack stands on the rear of the coach, positioned
> where the cross members intersect with the side rails both before and after
> the rear suspension.
> This is assuming the coach is on a level concrete floor.
> If you are on gravel or sod, you are on your own.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon

 

[RJW]

> My professional opinion goes like this:
> 2 ea. 6 ton rated steel jack stands for the front, positioned on the frame
> where the front clip bolts to the frame rails. (Not Harbour freight)
> 4 ea. 3 ton rated steel jack stands on the rear of the coach, positioned
> where the cross members intersect with the side rails both before and after
> the rear suspension.
> This is assuming the coach is on a level concrete floor.
> If you are on gravel or sod, you are on your own.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon

My approach is bit different. I have 3, 3 ton floor jacks that I use to raise my GMC. One under each bogey and one under the center of the main
cross member in the front to get it up.

Then I then use an assortment of 6x6 x 36" and 4x4 x 36" timbers to make cribbing at 4 places on the frame. I also keep the jacks in place for extra
security.

Somehow I don't trust jack stands alone when I'm crawling around under 6 tons of GMC.

By the way, Harbor Freight has upped their game. The floor jacks I use are new from Harbor Freight (got them on sale last year) and they seem to be
of higher quality as opposed to what they sold in the past.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/floor-jacks/3-ton-low-profile-super-duty-rapid-pump-floor-jack-candy-apple-metallic-red-57589.html

With them, I can raise my GMC almost 2 feet.

--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Roller Cam 455, TBI+EBL, 3.42 FD, 4 Bag, Macerator, Lenzi (brakes, vacuum system, front end stuff), Manny Tranny, vacuum step, Tankless + OEM water
heaters.

 

[RJW]

Quote:
> I then use an assortment of 6x6 x 36" and 4x4 x 36" timbers to make cribbing at 4 places on the frame. I also keep the jacks in place for extra
> security.

Actually the timbers I use are 24" long instead of 36". I like to use them when I have all 6 wheels off as I did last year when overhauling the front
and rear suspension.

--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Roller Cam 455, TBI+EBL, 3.42 FD, 4 Bag, Macerator, Lenzi (brakes, vacuum system, front end stuff), Manny Tranny, vacuum step, Tankless + OEM water
heaters.

 

[Matt Colie]

> Which brings up a great question. For those of us who have to work on gravel or asphalt, the jack stands need to be placed on something. What is
> the best option? Plywood, 2x10s, concrete patio blocks or something else?
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh ons:

I don't have an answer, but I have some observations.

Sometimes I have to jack a coach out on the gravel in front of my barn. I found that jack stands that have feet will punch through 3/4 plywood.

Jack stands placed on dimensional like 2*6 or 2*8 can cause these pieces to tilt on the less-than-solid surface. When I have to do this, I now use
4ea 2*X across each other. That way the tilt goes away.

I still would prefer to jack on the concrete floor of the barn, but that is not always an option because the door is too low for most coaches.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[sgltrac]

I would not trust a jack stand on gravel. Period. If you must work over
gravel (I feel really bad for you) I would only use solid wood cribbing.
Ideally stacks of blocks cut from laminated wood beams as they will not
split. If laminated wood scraps are not available then solid wood blocks
laid flat so load is parallel with grain. Do not use blocking with any
cracks present.

Sully
Bellevue wa

> > Which brings up a great question. For those of us who have to work on
> gravel or asphalt, the jack stands need to be placed on something. What is
> > the best option? Plywood, 2x10s, concrete patio blocks or something
> else?
> >
> > -Dave
> > 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh ons:
>
> I don't have an answer, but I have some observations.
>
> Sometimes I have to jack a coach out on the gravel in front of my barn. I
> found that jack stands that have feet will punch through 3/4 plywood.
>
> Jack stands placed on dimensional like 2*6 or 2*8 can cause these pieces
> to tilt on the less-than-solid surface. When I have to do this, I now use
> 4ea 2*X across each other. That way the tilt goes away.
>
> I still would prefer to jack on the concrete floor of the barn, but that
> is not always an option because the door is too low for most coaches.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL,
> GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum
> Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>

 

[Bruce Hart]

I have 3/8" pieces of aluminum plate that I use to support jack stands and
floor jack when I have to lift the coach on dirt or gravel.

> I would not trust a jack stand on gravel. Period. If you must work over
> gravel (I feel really bad for you) I would only use solid wood cribbing.
> Ideally stacks of blocks cut from laminated wood beams as they will not
> split. If laminated wood scraps are not available then solid wood blocks
> laid flat so load is parallel with grain. Do not use blocking with any
> cracks present.
>
> Sully
> Bellevue wa

>

> > > Which brings up a great question. For those of us who have to work on
> > gravel or asphalt, the jack stands need to be placed on something. What
> is
> > > the best option? Plywood, 2x10s, concrete patio blocks or something
> > else?
> > >
> > > -Dave
> > > 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh ons:
> >
> > I don't have an answer, but I have some observations.
> >
> > Sometimes I have to jack a coach out on the gravel in front of my barn.
> I
> > found that jack stands that have feet will punch through 3/4 plywood.
> >
> > Jack stands placed on dimensional like 2*6 or 2*8 can cause these pieces
> > to tilt on the less-than-solid surface. When I have to do this, I now
> use
> > 4ea 2*X across each other. That way the tilt goes away.
> >
> > I still would prefer to jack on the concrete floor of the barn, but that
> > is not always an option because the door is too low for most coaches.
> >
> > Matt
> > --
> > Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL,
> > GMCES
> > Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum
> > Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> > SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
LaGrange, Wyoming
GMC=Genetically Modified Chevy