Rear Hatch

[steven d. ferguson]

The rear hatch comes off by removing a number of screws from around the
edge. My screws were replaced this summer at Jim Bounds' in order to
eliminate some leaks. It took his guys a few hours and a bunch of sweat
to
get the old ones out. Rust is definately not your friend for this job.

Henry,
When Jim removed the screws did they remove the hatch or just replace
the screws. I'd sure like to get that hatch off but I'm a bit concerned
about how to go about doing it and if there is a gasket in there & it
gets destroyed in the process, what's the availability of a
replacement?. Also, are rear window gaskets available?
Just trying to plan ahead.
Thanks,
Steve Ferguson

 

[hdavis]

Steve,

> When Jim removed the screws did they remove the hatch or just replace
>the screws. I'd sure like to get that hatch off but I'm a bit concerned
>about how to go about doing it and if there is a gasket in there & it
>gets destroyed in the process, what's the availability of a
>replacement?.

Jim posted the procedure on another message tonight.

Also, are rear window gaskets available?

I'm not certain. But if not, my imporession is that you can replace it with
other materials. In my case, the entire panel has a nice bead of black
silicone filling the groove. Looks pretty good, but best of all it doesn't
leak.

>Just trying to plan ahead.

You might want to read my much earlier posting about rebuilding my
permanent bed to include more storage. An abbreviated version is on my web
site. Suffice it to say that whatever you plan has a high likelyhood of
going astray when you actually get into the coach and start
removing/replacing.

My new approach to the GMC interior - assume that just removing a panel
will result in you having to strip back to the aluminum ribs in order to
replace/fix it. Corallary: to remove one component will require you to
remove three others to gain access or complete the removal.

Henry
Who tonight discovered a leak in the black tank, and that my kitchen module
has shifted to the midline far enough that I can't remove the bath door in
order to glue the delaminating inside back onto the core so that the door
will close properly.


Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (831) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com

 

[steven d. ferguson]

Besides, I have found it a crap shoot when trying to reinstall and seal
it
to keep from leaking!

We pulled off Mike F. rear panel because we had to access body damage
but
you would have to really twist my arm to do it as SOP!

Thanks Jim,
That's enough for me to hear. It's staying in place! I'll just
replace the screws with stainless ones when I get to it.
Steve

 

[darren paget]

You will also find that a length of vacuum tubing stretched out and
pressed into the groove at the rear will act as an excellent seal which
can easily be removed for painting of the coach, etc. It is also
invisible when installed.
The rear window seal is available from Cinnabar. I think it is about
$95.00. Darren
- --
Darren Paget
76 Experimental
Another Fab Day
paget
http://www.TZEplus.com

 

[david l greenberg]

snip..........
and if there is a gasket in there &
>it
>>gets destroyed in the process, what's the availability of a
>>replacement?.

I seem to recall someone suggested a length of vacuum line would seal the
rear hatch just fine.

Dave Greenberg
GMC MOTORHOME REGISTRY
Seagate Towers 200 MacFarlane Dr PH4
Delray Beach, FL 33483-6829