Rear Hatch Bolts

T

Tom Katzenberger

Well-known member
Jun 26, 2019
795
287
63
Hello All,

Inquiry on opinions again. Should I replace my rear hatch bolts prior to painting the coach? All opinions are welcome, none will I criticize.

Thanks again,
Tom K.
--
Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
Kingsville, Maryland,
1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D., Micro Level, Howell EBL-EFI Spark Control, Macerator, York Air Compressor, 6 Wheel Disc, Quadra Bag, Onan W/Bovee
Ignition
 
Unless they are rusty, I wouldn't see any reason to replace them. They can be a bear to get out as well. Probably not worth the effort, in my
opinion.
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
 
I would replace them. When I'm bored I take out the standard screws and bolts and replace them with SS. When I built my Malibu street rod, I reassembled it using only SS. Sure mad getting back into something a lot easier.

CJ Vermeulen, Scribbler

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Stouffer"
To: "gmclist"
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2022 1:43:28 PM
Subject: [GMCnet] Re: Rear Hatch Bolts

Unless they are rusty, I wouldn't see any reason to replace them. They can be a bear to get out as well. Probably not worth the effort, in my
opinion.
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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Aren’t they a special type thread? I did not see them at Applied under body.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
If you are talking about the bolts & nuts that fasten the panels to the
body, they are standard hardware items. Should be available at Ace Hardware
Stores. If you go to Home Despot, prepare to serve yourself with offshore
manufactured pre-packaged junque. And no "helpful hardware man". Your
experience may vary.
If your existing fasteners are rusty, replace them with stainless
steel. You will get a better paint job if those doors and hatch covers are
removed during the painting process.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Thu, Jan 13, 2022, 1:08 PM John R. Lebetski
wrote:

> Aren’t they a special type thread? I did not see them at Applied under
> body.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Jim I took it as big Philips special screws holding on the rear hatch. Not general hardware.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
I was referring to the generator hatch cover as well as the propane hatch
cover. NOT the rear window. The rear window I would not consider to be a
hatch. But if that is in fact what he was referring to, those screws are
indeed something unique and not used anywhere else on the coaches. If it
ain't leaking, it is better left undisturbed in my opinion.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Thu, Jan 13, 2022, 3:21 PM John R. Lebetski
wrote:

> Jim I took it as big Philips special screws holding on the rear hatch. Not
> general hardware.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
When I removed the rear hatch some of the threads got damaged.
I had to drill them out and glue in brass thread inserts using epoxy.

--
Bill Wevers GMC49ers, GMC Western States
1975 Glenbrook - Manny Powerdrive, OneTon
455 F Block, G heads
San Jose
 
I don't know what the rear hatch is

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 ex-Palm Beach "Ol' Leaky" 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. Atwood helium fridge, water heater & furnace. SS
exhaust system, Onan, Iota Converter, R134A, New fuel lines & heat exchange hoses
 
That big rear window is not technically referred to as a "hatch". It does
not have hinges, and is a true bugger to open and close without creating
some leaks and stripped threads and broken fasteners. It's principal
purpose was to allow all the interior modules to be installed during
construction of the coach. Those coaches were backed up to a dock like
structure that a pallet jack could roll up to at coach floor height and
roll those modules into place. When they were all in place, that rear
window was sealed into place and screwed shut. If it were me, I would leave
it alone. Been there, done that. Got the "T" shirt that says "It's just a
GMC thing, you probably won't understand" (grin)
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

> I don't know what the rear hatch is
>
> Larry
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 ex-Palm Beach "Ol' Leaky" 40,000 miles, PO said everything working
> but forgot the word NOT. Atwood helium fridge, water heater & furnace. SS
> exhaust system, Onan, Iota Converter, R134A, New fuel lines & heat
> exchange hoses
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Thanks everyone!

Jim, Yes I did mean the large glass window panel, but your tip on the generator and opposite cover (23' Birchaven) is well taken and I will remove
them both before painting (very nice tip, Thank you).

I had one rear window bolt come out, I will re-install with JB weld and call it a day.

I don't know if there are any leaks as the coach was in indoor storage for 30 years. I did remove all the joint sealant and will have the shop sand
the surface. I have 2 shops giving me a price, when the second price comes in I will make a decision. I am looking at a single stage Bone/Off White
color and fine burgundy striping on the side. Same as my old coach.

Guys, thanks again for all the advice, opinions and suggestions everyone has been such a great help.

Have a wonderful evening and thanks again,
Tom K.
--
Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
Kingsville, Maryland,
1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D., Micro Level, Howell EBL-EFI Spark Control, Macerator, York Air Compressor, 6 Wheel Disc, Quadra Bag, Onan W/Bovee
Ignition
 
Tom,

I haven't seen (or don't remember) any comments about the gap around that
rear "hatch". In the past a lot of people have tried different things. I
sealed mine with urethane caulk, after checking with the manufacturer that
it would withstand automotive paint. Their "Yes" answer was only correct
in that the caulk stood up OK to the paint, but the paint didn't adhere
well to the caulk -- 4-5 years later I had a flaking mess.

If I were doing it again, I'd follow the suggestion of those who said use
small tubing (like vacuum hose) forced into the gap -- AFTER painting. But
I'm not going to repaint for the few years, at most, I'll be using the GMC.

Ken H.

> Hello All,
>
> Inquiry on opinions again. Should I replace my rear hatch bolts prior to
> painting the coach? All opinions are welcome, none will I criticize.
>
> Thanks again,
> Tom K.
> --
> Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
> Kingsville, Maryland,
> 1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D., Micro Level, Howell EBL-EFI Spark Control,
> Macerator, York Air Compressor, 6 Wheel Disc, Quadra Bag, Onan W/Bovee
> Ignition
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Ken,

The vacuum tube sounds like a great idea and I will do that.

Thanks again and stay healthy,
Tom K.
--
Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
Kingsville, Maryland,
1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D., Micro Level, Howell EBL-EFI Spark Control, Macerator, York Air Compressor, 6 Wheel Disc, Quadra Bag, Onan W/Bovee
Ignition
 
Second third and fourth the don’t remove the rear outer body panel advice.
Once those screws and the panel removed it is fairly difficult to re
establish a solid mount and good seal. The screw sockets or holes start out
as slightly undersize smooth holes. The screw cuts it’s own threads as it
is inserted. The rear panel is made out of SMC which is very hard and stiff
but also brittle. Once the screw has made its hole and tightened a solid
mechanical connection is made. If the screws come out some of the now loose
smc falls out of the hole. Next time the screw is installed there is less
material for the threads the get purchase. Add in the need to position (and
seal)the rear panel with torquing those bolts in sequence and many will
pull what little threads that remain in the smc holes. I would only remove
the rear panel if it was absolutely necessary. The vacuum hose (stretched
to fit rather than stuffed) works very well for sealing that joint and can
be done after paint. You might consider something a little less permanent
in the hole where you lost a screw. Polyurethane caulk for example. Some
day down the road you or someone else might need to remove that panel.

Sully
Bellevue wa

> Ken,
>
> The vacuum tube sounds like a great idea and I will do that.
>
> Thanks again and stay healthy,
> Tom K.
> --
> Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
> Kingsville, Maryland,
> 1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D., Micro Level, Howell EBL-EFI Spark Control,
> Macerator, York Air Compressor, 6 Wheel Disc, Quadra Bag, Onan W/Bovee
> Ignition
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
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