REAR BRAKES

sandy wilson

New member
Dec 18, 1997
98
0
0
Hello .
I just purchased a 1973 Painted Desert and have pulled apart the bogies
to re-bush and replace the pins. I will probably purchase from Sirnum as
no parts are avail. up here in SK.
While it is apart I may put new brake shoes on even though they have
some life in them. I do not know how thick the lining on new shoes is?
Does anybody have jobber numbers for brake shoes? I do not have many of
the auto stores found in the USA so napa or bendix etc would do. How
about wheel cyl. numbers? I beleive that they are 15/16 ". I have seen
many posts about moving up in size. Do the larger sizes bolt in directly
and sit properly to the shoes?
Thanks for any replies.

Regards, (no longer a lurker)
Gil.
Regina, SK., Canada.
 
Gil

Before you get started...Contact Cinnabar Engeneering 800-720-2227 and
invest
in a set of shop and parts manuals (3 total). It's worth the money. Next,
join GMC International. They put out a "Parts Interchange Index" that will
save you a lot of reinventing . They show the GMC part number as 5472398
and a Wagner number of272-DR.
Also contact Leigh Harrison, 1520 Woodside Drive, Woodbridge, Va, 22191,
703-494-9914. He puts out a set of disc brakes for the rear. You can buy
either axle or both. According to his research, the front wheels and the
front bogie do the breaking and the rear bogie is a very small %. I have
driven his coach. It is fuel injected ( it goes NOW) and has 6-wheel disc
brakes. IT STOPS AND GIVES YOU CHANGE.
I HAVE NOT put them on my coach yet, but there have been a couple of times
I wish I had invested in them....and I don't live in the mountains.

Wayne Newland F9300 75 Palm Beach

> Hello .
> I just purchased a 1973 Painted Desert and have pulled apart the bogies
> to re-bush and replace the pins. I will probably purchase from Sirnum as
> no parts are avail. up here in SK.
> While it is apart I may put new brake shoes on even though they have
> some life in them. I do not know how thick the lining on new shoes is?
> Does anybody have jobber numbers for brake shoes? I do not have many of
> the auto stores found in the USA so napa or bendix etc would do. How
> about wheel cyl. numbers? I beleive that they are 15/16 ". I have seen
> many posts about moving up in size. Do the larger sizes bolt in directly
> and sit properly to the shoes?
> Thanks for any replies.
>
> Regards, (no longer a lurker)
> Gil.
> Regina, SK., Canada.
 
>.... seen
>many posts about moving up in size. Do the larger sizes bolt in directly
>and sit properly to the shoes?

I just upgraded my four rears to 1-1/8" cylinders. They are bolt-in, no
modifications required. Here are the part numbers that I have for wheel
cylinders:

Wagner F79767 1-1/16" rear brake cylinders

Bendix 29634 1-1/8" rear brake cylinders
CarQuest EW86000 1-1/8" rear brake cylinders
Wagner FD108361 1-1/8" rear brake cylinders
? K27-747 1-1/8" rear brake cylinders

I used the CarQuest number but I don't know if CarQuest operates in Canada.

I don't know for sure if this upgrade improves stopping distance but it
does substantially reduce the peddle pressure required during stopping.

I don't know how long you have been on the list but recently there was a
lengthily discussion regarding rear braking. My understanding is that
during normal stopping, braking on the rears is equal (this is supported by
the fact that the measured wear on my rear shoes is roughly the same). But
the geometry of the rear suspension applies downward force to the mid
wheels and applies upward force to the rear wheels during braking. So,
during panic stops, if you apply the same braking force to the mids and the
rears, the rears will lock up sooner than the mids. Thus, some people have
chosen to use larger cylinders on the mid brakes than on the rear brakes.

I made the decision to keep all four brake cylinders the same size for a
number of reasons. The first being that it was the original GM design. The
second is that I want to spread the braking load (and thus the heat) evenly
between all four rear wheels. Third, I want to keep the wear on all the
rear brake shoes even. Lastly I am thinking that I would prefer having one
set of rear wheels lock up before the other. In my mind the worst case
situation would be to have all four lock up at once. With all four wheels
in the rear locked up you loose lateral stability (you fishtail).

Of course the downside to having mid cylinders and rear cylinders the same
size is longer stopping distance. With large cylinders in the mids and
smaller cylinders in the rears, in a panic stop, the unbalanced braking
force will more closely match the unbalanced downward force on the wheels.
Therefore all four wheels will be closer to skidding and you should get the
best stopping distance (if you don't allow them to skid).

So I guess the choice is between even wear/heat distribution during normal
braking (with all four cylinders larger) vs. shorter stopping distances
during panic stops (using larger cylinders in the mids).

In either case I suspect that using the larger cylinders will improve
overall stopping distance. I am guessing that the rear brakes where sized
such that an empty transmode would not be prone to having the rear brakes
lock up before the front brakes. This would dictate using smaller brakes in
the rear, much like most front wheel drive cars and vans today. But if you
fully load the interior, especially if the center of gravity is low and
towards the rear, then you should be able to increase the braking force in
the rear without increasing the risk of locking up the rear wheels first.

Of course this is just speculation on my part so take it for what its
worth. But anyone who has driven an old pickup truck, with no load and rear
brakes sized for a full load, can relate to the relationship between
loading and stability during braking.

Dave
73 Sequoia
 
David

The GMC PART number for the rear brake drums is 721426
Gateway and Golby are also supposed to carry them

Wayne Newland F9300 75 Plam Beach

> i have removed my rear brake drums to get the bearings out to inspect, clean,
> and repack. I had a very hard time getting the left ones off. The knockouts
> on the backing plates were still there and on the left side I couldn't punch
> them out. I ended up drilling thru them so I could turn the star wheel to
> adjust the shoes so I could get the drums off.
> The left side shoes and drums don't look quite as good as the right ones did.
> The right ones looked good so I reassembled them. Now I'm going to take the
> left drums to see if they can be turned and get brake shoes.
> If I need drums what's the best way to go?
> Anyone have the part #s for the best brake shoes?
>
> TIA,
>
> David