Rear Bearing Question

J

jim curran

New member
Jun 12, 2009
54
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Hi Folks,

I am getting ready to take my coach off of jackstands but have been checking a few things first. Latest issue is...

With the rear wheels off the ground, I grabbed the rear right wheel and rocked it. There is a tiny amount of slop so I'm wondering about bearings:

Is there a protocol to detect which bearing or race is worn or just replace everything ?
There seems to be a void between the inside and outside bearings - should that be partly filled with grease ?
I saw the issue with certain grease seals from several years ago having dimensional issues - is there anything else to watch out for?

Thanks,
Jim
--
Jim Curran
1976 Palm Beach
Alexandria, OH
 
> Hi Folks,
>
> I am getting ready to take my coach off of jackstands but have been checking a few things first. Latest issue is...
>
> With the rear wheels off the ground, I grabbed the rear right wheel and rocked it. There is a tiny amount of slop so I'm wondering about
> bearings:
>
> Is there a protocol to detect which bearing or race is worn or just replace everything ?
> There seems to be a void between the inside and outside bearings - should that be partly filled with grease ?
> I saw the issue with certain grease seals from several years ago having dimensional issues - is there anything else to watch out for?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim

Jim,

If the bearing is set right, there should be just a little room when you push/pull the top/bottom of the tire. If you can't feel it move, it is too
tight and the bearing will go out in short order.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
'73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control Arms
Now with both true Keyless and remote entry
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Jim,

If you don't know when those bearings were repacked -- correctly -- I'd
recommend doing them now. However, your questions make me think you should
get someone to mentor you on the job. It's not really difficult, but the
first time is when you should learn what to look for on the cleaned
bearings; how to properly pack the grease into them; and, most importantly,
regardless of who helps you, how to tighten them. Here's the procedure for
that from the X-7525 manual:

BRAKE DRUM INSTALLATION
1 . Install hub and drum assembly (figure 10).
2. Install flat washer and castellated nut on hub
while rotating hub and drum assembly.
3 . Tighten castellated nut to 25-30 lbs. ft . torque
to position bearings . (Be sure drum is rotating while
tightening nut).
4. Back off nut 1/2 turn.
5 . Re-tighten nut finger tight, secure if possible
with cotter pin.
6. If unable to secure at finger tight, back off nut
to first securing position.
7. Check end play between hub and spindle it
should be .001 to .005 inch.
8 . Replace inner and outer dust caps.

That 0.001 to 0.005 inch play is all you should be feeling right now.

Be sure to check the seals as described in the references you mentioned --
just a few filings in the grease can wipe the bearings out "right now".

HTH,

Ken H.

> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > I am getting ready to take my coach off of jackstands but have been
> checking a few things first. Latest issue is...
> >
> > With the rear wheels off the ground, I grabbed the rear right wheel and
> rocked it. There is a tiny amount of slop so I'm wondering about
> > bearings:
> >
> > Is there a protocol to detect which bearing or race is worn or just
> replace everything ?
> > There seems to be a void between the inside and outside bearings -
> should that be partly filled with grease ?
> > I saw the issue with certain grease seals from several years ago having
> dimensional issues - is there anything else to watch out for?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jim
>
 
> Jim,
>
> If you don't know when those bearings were repacked -- correctly -- I'd
> recommend doing them now. However, your questions make me think you should
> get someone to mentor you on the job. It's not really difficult, but the
> first time is when you should learn what to look for on the cleaned
> bearings; how to properly pack the grease into them; and, most importantly,
> regardless of who helps you, how to tighten them. Here's the procedure for
> that from the X-7525 manual:
>
> BRAKE DRUM INSTALLATION
> 1 . Install hub and drum assembly (figure 10).
> 2. Install flat washer and castellated nut on hub
> while rotating hub and drum assembly.
> 3 . Tighten castellated nut to 25-30 lbs. ft . torque
> to position bearings . (Be sure drum is rotating while
> tightening nut).
> 4. Back off nut 1/2 turn.
> 5 . Re-tighten nut finger tight, secure if possible
> with cotter pin.
> 6. If unable to secure at finger tight, back off nut
> to first securing position.
> 7. Check end play between hub and spindle it
> should be .001 to .005 inch.
> 8 . Replace inner and outer dust caps.
>
> That 0.001 to 0.005 inch play is all you should be feeling right now.
>
> Be sure to check the seals as described in the references you mentioned --
> just a few filings in the grease can wipe the bearings out "right now".
>
> HTH,
>
> Ken H.

Ken,

Thank you for filling this in. It was late and all I had in mind then was having him not take the bearings too tight.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
'73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control Arms
Now with both true Keyless and remote entry
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
If you have the bearings too tight, you stand a good chance of having a wheel pass you on the freeway as the coach grinds to a halt. Ask me how I
know this :)

--johnny
--
'76 23' transmode Norris upfit, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.

"Sometimes I wonder what tomorrow's gonna bring when I think about my dirty life and times" --Warren Zevon
 
The void between the 2 bearings does not need to be filled with grease. It will not migrate to the bearings and will just be a waste of grease. Do
make sure the inside of the hub is covered with grease and the same for the spindle so they are protected from moisture condensation which will make
them rust very easily. The same applies to the bearing cap on the outside. Filling that cap will not provide "extra" grease for the outside bearing,
it will just sit there and spin around with the cap. Every one I have ever taken off that was packed with grease is just that, still packed with
grease while the bearing went dry (or wet with water)and turned to bits and pieces. Concentrate on getting the bearings absolutely filled with grease
with no air spaces left, and using your absolutely clean grease gun (not the one you use for dirty chassis joints),run a bead of grease around the
wide side of the inside bearing before installing the seal and make sure and lubricate the seal rubbing surface and spindle before putting the
hub/drum back together. I also run a bead of grease around the outside of the outer bearing before putting the washer and nut back on.

An exception to the rule of not stuffing the hub with grease is boat trailer bearings with "bearing buddy" caps that have a zerk fitting to allow
greasing from the hub cap. These need to be filled so the grease in between the 2 bearings will be pushed into the inside bearing when fresh grease is
applied through the zerk fitting in the hub cap. That is supposed to force old grease and any moisture out of the grease seal at the back, where it is
most likely to enter when submerging a warm bearing assembly in cold water when launching the boat. At least that what it said on the instruction
sheet :)
--
Terry Kelpien

ASE Master Technician

73 Glacier 260

Smithfield, Va.
 
Thanks Guys - I will see what is going on with the bolts on the other 3 wheels.

Jim
--
Jim Curran
1976 Palm Beach
Alexandria, OH
 
A Lisle bearing packer is a must have tool. Forces fresh grease in and old grease out. I use Synpower in my gun so I only stock ine grease.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Source America First
 
I had a drone sound in back above about 63 MPH. It was outer right front rear bearing. Point is the race looked good, the rollers looked good, but the
inner surface of the besring that you can not see was rough. So I replaced the outer bearing and the race as a set. Point here is s VISUAL indpection
could not show the problem. But an auditory inspection, both driving and spinning the bearing in my hand pinpoined the problem.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Source America First
 
That, the tactile detection of bearing flaws, is the reason I'm hesitant to
try to remotely tutor anyone on bearing service.
You've just gotta learn how to turn the bearing and feel its condition.
Back in the '70's, USAF developed an inspection machine for turbine engine
bearings, but it's 'way, 'way, 'way too expensive for any automotive
mechanic.

Ken H.

On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 8:16 PM, John R. Lebetski
wrote:

> I had a drone sound in back above about 63 MPH. It was outer right front
> rear bearing. Point is the race looked good, the rollers looked good, but
> the
> inner surface of the besring that you can not see was rough. So I replaced
> the outer bearing and the race as a set. Point here is s VISUAL indpection
> could not show the problem. But an auditory inspection, both driving and
> spinning the bearing in my hand pinpoined the problem.
> --
 
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