Some of the others who have dealt with longer than I might have more to say
on the air lines, but here's my experience; I have been working on my '78
Transmode for over 1 year and moved the air pump with lines attached many,
many times while doing the renovation. The only leaks have come from the
fittings, never the lines themselves. I have replace the original
'crimped' factory fittings with the new internal self sealing type with
good success. The only issue with these new types is to make sure you
lubricate the end of the line before inserting it into the fitting. This
seems contrary to me - That putting a lubricate on a nylon hose to make it
tighter. But it works! If you don't lube it, it will leak air. The other
really cool feature is that they can be disconnected without any tools!! I
have rerouted a couple of the lines by simply pressing the collar back on
the fitting, which also the line to come out of the fitting, then to
reinstall just check for proper lube on the end of the line, insert it,
give it a gentle tug and you're done!
PS I ran spell check this time - sorry about the previous posts. I'm still
waiting for someone to sell keyboards in sizes so my fat fingers work better.
>Just trying to get consensus from this highly knowledgable and perspicacious
>group
about the wisdom of leaving the original color coded air lines
>serving the rear suspension in place. Coach has around 40K original miles
>on it and lines APPEAR to be OK (no obvious signs of aging, cracking and
>they appear to remain flexible).
>Replaced dash mounted control valves before coach put up 8+ years ago. I
>THINK the loss of air in the rear over the storage period was a function of
>the deteriorated AIR BAGS.
>
>Would also mention that during removal of driver side bags, one PLASTIC cone
>(or piston) was so dried out it crumbled when I removed it: That's 2 of the
>4 that self-destructed.
>
>I WAS going to KD the bogeys but found them in good shape (no perceptible
>"play" in axis perpendicular to pin length in any position). At least ONE
>thing I won't have to do.
>
>Dick 75 PB in Atlanta
>
on the air lines, but here's my experience; I have been working on my '78
Transmode for over 1 year and moved the air pump with lines attached many,
many times while doing the renovation. The only leaks have come from the
fittings, never the lines themselves. I have replace the original
'crimped' factory fittings with the new internal self sealing type with
good success. The only issue with these new types is to make sure you
lubricate the end of the line before inserting it into the fitting. This
seems contrary to me - That putting a lubricate on a nylon hose to make it
tighter. But it works! If you don't lube it, it will leak air. The other
really cool feature is that they can be disconnected without any tools!! I
have rerouted a couple of the lines by simply pressing the collar back on
the fitting, which also the line to come out of the fitting, then to
reinstall just check for proper lube on the end of the line, insert it,
give it a gentle tug and you're done!
PS I ran spell check this time - sorry about the previous posts. I'm still
waiting for someone to sell keyboards in sizes so my fat fingers work better.
>Just trying to get consensus from this highly knowledgable and perspicacious
>group
>serving the rear suspension in place. Coach has around 40K original miles
>on it and lines APPEAR to be OK (no obvious signs of aging, cracking and
>they appear to remain flexible).
>Replaced dash mounted control valves before coach put up 8+ years ago. I
>THINK the loss of air in the rear over the storage period was a function of
>the deteriorated AIR BAGS.
>
>Would also mention that during removal of driver side bags, one PLASTIC cone
>(or piston) was so dried out it crumbled when I removed it: That's 2 of the
>4 that self-destructed.
>
>I WAS going to KD the bogeys but found them in good shape (no perceptible
>"play" in axis perpendicular to pin length in any position). At least ONE
>thing I won't have to do.
>
>Dick 75 PB in Atlanta
>