Raising the Body

The wood for the floor would be done from inside the coach.

I found that in order to duplicate the original thickness, I had to use pressure treated plywood. It worked well.

There are surprisingly few connections between the body and the frame. Once you have those cleared, you need to block the front and the back attach points (4 x 4’s worked for me), and then the challenge is lifting them. I used two “old school” pneumatically powered jacks that I bought at an auction.

Make certain everything is disconnected. Many a black tank and toilet have been ruined because they were forgotten.

In retrospect, I would not do it. I would replace the pads with ones of your choice, and paint as much of the frame as you can with the rust inhibiting paint of your choice.

My .02

Dolph

DE AD0LF

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
Howell EFI & EBL, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission

“The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress”

|[ ]~~~[][ ][] \
"--OO--[]---O-"

>
> How difficult is it to raise the body enough to replace wood and coat the frame?
>
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Dolph,

I am understanding that it is better to find a coach with a solid sub-floor in lieu of installing new floor, regardless of the age of the wood.
 
The worst part about replacing the floor is the fact that it is the first
thing that gets installed. Which means EVERYTHING needs to be removed in
the area you are trying to re floor. If you have a localized bad area it
can be patched in without gutting to the walls. Did full sheets as well as
sections in The Pig.

Sully
Bellevue wa

On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 2:10 PM tomkatz3--- via Gmclist <

> Dolph,
>
> I am understanding that it is better to find a coach with a solid
> sub-floor in lieu of installing new floor, regardless of the age of the
> wood.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>