Questions on bath drain plumbing and Bay Area CGs

T

tmaki1

New member
Aug 25, 1999
462
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Greetings from the Inland Empire!

I need to figure out how to get to the shower drain fitting in the
Glacier (side/wet bath). It seems that the seal around the shower
drain is kaputengone and leaks-as in REALLY LEAKS-to the point
of not being able to use the shower. Carpet outside bath gets
soaked, and water leaks from under coach. Water going straight
into drain doesn't leak out -- so piping is OK.

Is there a way to get to that fitting to install a new rubber seal or
even plumber's putty and tighten up the nut from below without
removing the holding tank (please, God, let there be a way . . .)?
Before I apply a Sawzall to the walls and floor, does the riser panel
just below the bath door come off to allow access to the bottom of
the shower pan? I don't want to tear up the carpet and cut a hole in
the panel if I don't have to, but I don't want to pull the tank even
more. Nothing in my service manual goes into that detail.

Any help and ideas graciously accepted.

And now on to something entirely different:

Anybody in the Bay area know of decent campgrounds close to Los
Altos? We're going to a big high school marching band tournament
up there this Saturday, and a place to pull into Friday PM would be
convenient. (Kids are in marching band, and Los Altos is one of the
biggies in the tournament circuit).

Again, thanks for any help or ideas.

BTW, I just got the new Alcoa wheels and new Goodyear G159
tires on. For any who haven't already done this, let me just say that I
have now had the "GMC experience". I can't explain it -- you have to
experience it. If you haven't put on a great set of wheels and tires,
beautifully balanced and correctly installed, you owe it to yourself.
Work part time at Circle K, turn in bottles and cans -- do whatever it
takes to get the money together (if that's what's stopping you) and
just do it. Just reducing the unsprung weight of the coach by about
300 lbs. makes such a difference that it feels like a totally different
vehicle ( I had OEM steel wheels and nylon bias-ply tires). Nearly
effortless steering, smooth and stable ride. Oh yeah, did I mention
that I really like these?

Cheers!

Toby Maki
73 Glacier 230
 
There is a 2 or 2.5" panel below the shower door. It runs the full length
of the bath module. This panel is secured with screws and will come
off. This allows just enough room to do what you are needing to do.

Good Luck

bdub
Central Texas
76 Palm Beach

>Is there a way to get to that fitting to install a new rubber seal or
>even plumber's putty and tighten up the nut from below without
>removing the holding tank (please, God, let there be a way . . .)?
>Before I apply a Sawzall to the walls and floor, does the riser panel
>just below the bath door come off to allow access to the bottom of
>the shower pan? I don't want to tear up the carpet and cut a hole in
>the panel if I don't have to, but I don't want to pull the tank even
>more. Nothing in my service manual goes into that detail.
>
>Any help and ideas graciously accepted.
 
There is a 2 or 2.5" panel below the shower door. It runs the full length
of the bath module. This panel is secured with screws and will come
off. This allows just enough room to do what you are needing to do.

Good Luck

bdub
Central Texas
76 Palm Beach

>Is there a way to get to that fitting to install a new rubber seal or
>even plumber's putty and tighten up the nut from below without
>removing the holding tank (please, God, let there be a way . . .)?
>Before I apply a Sawzall to the walls and floor, does the riser panel
>just below the bath door come off to allow access to the bottom of
>the shower pan? I don't want to tear up the carpet and cut a hole in
>the panel if I don't have to, but I don't want to pull the tank even
>more. Nothing in my service manual goes into that detail.
>
>Any help and ideas graciously accepted.
 
That's the answer I was looking for.

Thanks!

TMaki

> There is a 2 or 2.5" panel below the shower door. It runs the full length
> of the bath module. This panel is secured with screws and will come
> off. This allows just enough room to do what you are needing to do.
>
> Good Luck
>
> bdub
> Central Texas
> 76 Palm Beach
>
>

>
> >Is there a way to get to that fitting to install a new rubber seal or
> >even plumber's putty and tighten up the nut from below without
> >removing the holding tank (please, God, let there be a way . . .)?
> >Before I apply a Sawzall to the walls and floor, does the riser panel
> >just below the bath door come off to allow access to the bottom of
> >the shower pan? I don't want to tear up the carpet and cut a hole in
> >the panel if I don't have to, but I don't want to pull the tank even
> >more. Nothing in my service manual goes into that detail.
> >
> >Any help and ideas graciously accepted.
>
 
Excellent suggestion on stopper. I just hope things aren't too much
of a corroded mess under there. All I need to do is twist the right
thing wrongly, and make it worse than it is. I'm going to assume that
standard plumbing tools/techniques/deletable expletives apply.

Thanks for the tips.

TMaki
73 Glacier 230

>

>
> Glacier (side/wet bath). It seems that the seal around the shower
> drain is kaputengone and leaks-as in REALLY LEAKS-to the point
> of not being able to use the shower. Carpet outside bath gets
> soaked, and water leaks from under coach. Water going straight
> into drain doesn't leak out -- so piping is OK. >>
>
> Just under the outside of the door at the bottom is a removable kickplate.
> Screws are at each end. While you are in there I suggest that you install a
> "Pop" type drain stopper. It is a unit that would replace the present drain
> parts. Available at almost any home store. These will seal both ways
> whereas a rubber stopper will usually leak from the tank to the shower pan if
> your tank is full. They operate by pushing to open and then pushing to close.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Santa Fe, NM
>
 
cinnabar has a great stopper that you can close with your foot and has a
o-ring to keep out the smells when your trap is empty.

Les also wrote an article on how to replace the drain.
gene

>Excellent suggestion on stopper. I just hope things aren't too much
>of a corroded mess under there. All I need to do is twist the right
>thing wrongly, and make it worse than it is. I'm going to assume that
>standard plumbing tools/techniques/deletable expletives apply.
>
>Thanks for the tips.
>
>
>TMaki
>73 Glacier 230
>
>

>
>>

>>
>> > Glacier (side/wet bath). It seems that the seal around the shower
>> drain is kaputengone and leaks-as in REALLY LEAKS-to the point
>> of not being able to use the shower. Carpet outside bath gets
>> soaked, and water leaks from under coach. Water going straight
>> into drain doesn't leak out -- so piping is OK. >>
>>
>> Just under the outside of the door at the bottom is a removable
kickplate.
>> Screws are at each end. While you are in there I suggest that you
install a
>> "Pop" type drain stopper. It is a unit that would replace the present
drain
>> parts. Available at almost any home store. These will seal both ways
>> whereas a rubber stopper will usually leak from the tank to the shower
pan if
>> your tank is full. They operate by pushing to open and then pushing to
close.
>>
>> Emery Stora
>> 77 Kingsley
>> Santa Fe, NM
>>
>
>
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/
 
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