Questions:Intake manifold replacement no intake gasket

J

jack ramsey

New member
Jan 21, 2013
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NO intake gasket except the turkey tray, large amount of gunk in the water jackets, orange silicone in the oil galley, RUSTED intake bolts.

I am thinking clean up the turkey tray, possibly not replace it, clean everything up as much as I can, install fixed stock intake with Jim K gaskets
and block of plates, intake from Jim K also, fill the exhaust crossover with Moroso engine block filler, just in case, install the Jim K supplied
Atomic FI and run it for a couple of weeks. THEN pull the radiator and send it out, while replacing the 20 yr old water pump and checking the timing
chain sprocket at the same time. No sense in putting in a new water pump with the amount of gunk from 20 yrs of sitting swirling up and stirring up
the mess.

I see from YouTube, some people think the front and rear intake to block gaskets should not be used. Any thoughts? Am I thinking OK? I have never see
this amount of gunk in a cooling system. Since I am an old air cooled mechanic, I think it is important to think about thermal expansion of the bolts.
I am probably overthinking simple stuff. get new intake grade something? bolts, torque them down and move on. Have to improvise a little on the
threaded pieces holding down the myriad of assorted brackets for cooling shroud and rest of system.

Turkey tray overall mess:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/atomic-tbi-fuel-injection/p66439-turkey-tray.html

Water Jacket Gunk:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/atomic-tbi-fuel-injection/p66440-water-jacket-gunk.html

Edelbrock no gasket:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/atomic-tbi-fuel-injection/p66442-edelbrock-no-gasket.html

Thanks,

Jack

--
Jack Ramsey
Tulare, CA
TZE165V101526
1975 Palm Beach
 
In my opinion, ditch the turkey tray and use Dick Paterson’s intake gaskets
with stainless steel exhaust crossover block-off plates, following his
sealing instructions.

Remove and meticulously vacuum out the silicone bits. Don’t leave any
silicone bits anywhere.

The turkey tray is there to keep oil from splashing up and coking in the
hot exhaust crossover passage of the manifold. With block-off plates, it
won’t be that hot.

The crossover is for carb heating, which we simply don’t need.

You’ll need to install an electric choke.

If the bolts just have surface rust, i would probably wire-brush and reuse
the. If the corrosion has eroded them, replace.

Use a wide RTV bead to seal the end gaps, instead of the gasket-kit rubber
things. Be sure that gasket surfaces are carefully degreased before
applying sealant.

Check port alignment to make sure you have good and wide gasket compression
around the water jackets.

Tighten the bolts to half torque, and let the sealant cure overnight, if
possible. Then tighten to full torque, noting the order in the maintenance
manual.

I bet you’ll need a new thermostat. Make sure the thermostat neck seats and
tightens properly. I’ve had issue with this.

Rick “and fresh fluids, of course” Denney

On Mon, May 27, 2019 at 9:42 PM Jack Ramsey via Gmclist <

> NO intake gasket except the turkey tray, large amount of gunk in the water
> jackets, orange silicone in the oil galley, RUSTED intake bolts.
>
> I am thinking clean up the turkey tray, possibly not replace it, clean
> everything up as much as I can, install fixed stock intake with Jim K
> gaskets
> and block of plates, intake from Jim K also, fill the exhaust crossover
> with Moroso engine block filler, just in case, install the Jim K supplied
> Atomic FI and run it for a couple of weeks. THEN pull the radiator and
> send it out, while replacing the 20 yr old water pump and checking the
> timing
> chain sprocket at the same time. No sense in putting in a new water pump
> with the amount of gunk from 20 yrs of sitting swirling up and stirring up
> the mess.
>
> I see from YouTube, some people think the front and rear intake to block
> gaskets should not be used. Any thoughts? Am I thinking OK? I have never see
> this amount of gunk in a cooling system. Since I am an old air cooled
> mechanic, I think it is important to think about thermal expansion of the
> bolts.
> I am probably overthinking simple stuff. get new intake grade something?
> bolts, torque them down and move on. Have to improvise a little on the
> threaded pieces holding down the myriad of assorted brackets for cooling
> shroud and rest of system.
>
> Turkey tray overall mess:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/atomic-tbi-fuel-injection/p66439-turkey-tray.html
>
> Water Jacket Gunk:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/atomic-tbi-fuel-injection/p66440-water-jacket-gunk.html
>
> Edelbrock no gasket:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/atomic-tbi-fuel-injection/p66442-edelbrock-no-gasket.html
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jack
>
> --
> Jack Ramsey
> Tulare, CA
> TZE165V101526
> 1975 Palm Beach
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
 
Call as we have All the parts including the special choke wire connector
and will advise you on the hook up and adjustment .

On Tue, May 28, 2019 at 7:15 AM Richard Denney via Gmclist <

> In my opinion, ditch the turkey tray and use Dick Paterson’s intake gaskets
> with stainless steel exhaust crossover block-off plates, following his
> sealing instructions.
>
> Remove and meticulously vacuum out the silicone bits. Don’t leave any
> silicone bits anywhere.
>
> The turkey tray is there to keep oil from splashing up and coking in the
> hot exhaust crossover passage of the manifold. With block-off plates, it
> won’t be that hot.
>
> The crossover is for carb heating, which we simply don’t need.
>
> You’ll need to install an electric choke.
>
> If the bolts just have surface rust, i would probably wire-brush and reuse
> the. If the corrosion has eroded them, replace.
>
> Use a wide RTV bead to seal the end gaps, instead of the gasket-kit rubber
> things. Be sure that gasket surfaces are carefully degreased before
> applying sealant.
>
> Check port alignment to make sure you have good and wide gasket compression
> around the water jackets.
>
> Tighten the bolts to half torque, and let the sealant cure overnight, if
> possible. Then tighten to full torque, noting the order in the maintenance
> manual.
>
> I bet you’ll need a new thermostat. Make sure the thermostat neck seats and
> tightens properly. I’ve had issue with this.
>
> Rick “and fresh fluids, of course” Denney
>
> On Mon, May 27, 2019 at 9:42 PM Jack Ramsey via Gmclist <

>
> > NO intake gasket except the turkey tray, large amount of gunk in the
> water
> > jackets, orange silicone in the oil galley, RUSTED intake bolts.
> >
> > I am thinking clean up the turkey tray, possibly not replace it, clean
> > everything up as much as I can, install fixed stock intake with Jim K
> > gaskets
> > and block of plates, intake from Jim K also, fill the exhaust crossover
> > with Moroso engine block filler, just in case, install the Jim K supplied
> > Atomic FI and run it for a couple of weeks. THEN pull the radiator and
> > send it out, while replacing the 20 yr old water pump and checking the
> > timing
> > chain sprocket at the same time. No sense in putting in a new water pump
> > with the amount of gunk from 20 yrs of sitting swirling up and stirring
> up
> > the mess.
> >
> > I see from YouTube, some people think the front and rear intake to block
> > gaskets should not be used. Any thoughts? Am I thinking OK? I have never
> see
> > this amount of gunk in a cooling system. Since I am an old air cooled
> > mechanic, I think it is important to think about thermal expansion of the
> > bolts.
> > I am probably overthinking simple stuff. get new intake grade something?
> > bolts, torque them down and move on. Have to improvise a little on the
> > threaded pieces holding down the myriad of assorted brackets for cooling
> > shroud and rest of system.
> >
> > Turkey tray overall mess:
> >
> >
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/atomic-tbi-fuel-injection/p66439-turkey-tray.html
> >
> > Water Jacket Gunk:
> >
> >
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/atomic-tbi-fuel-injection/p66440-water-jacket-gunk.html
> >
> > Edelbrock no gasket:
> >
> >
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/atomic-tbi-fuel-injection/p66442-edelbrock-no-gasket.html
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jack
> >
> > --
> > Jack Ramsey
> > Tulare, CA
> > TZE165V101526
> > 1975 Palm Beach
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> --
> '73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
> Northern Virginia
> Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
You can use a centre punch and put some dimples in the block where you are putting the silicone bead
when installing the intake. They help hold the silicone in place.
When putting the silicone on, let it sit for a few minutes before installing the intake.
 
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