Project Icebox update

S

sean kidd

New member
Aug 14, 2012
692
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http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7031/medium/IMG_21022.JPG

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7031/medium/IMG_21421.JPG

Got both evaporators mounted, started running hoses....resealed compressor. Snafu-the suction line on my 73 is a #12...I bought parts for #10, have
to wait for order to finish...also the liquid line from compressor does not have a traditional ferrule, its integral to the line, so I need to get a
couple #8 braze on fittings to replace the 44 year old hose.
--
Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.

Colonial Travelers
 
Hi Sean -

Am I correct to conclude from your other postings that this system is alive and cooling ??

I'm really interested in doing the same... any details and/or pictures would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve W
1973 23'
Southern California
 
Could you not skip the solenoid? Wouldn't the expansion valve simply give a bit and then not open any more since there's no air flow across it? I
believe the rear air handfler in my 88 Suburban company ride worked. Skipping it would eliminate two potential leak points and one electromechanical
failure point.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Yes, it's working, I owe you a photo or two update...although finish work and ducting not yet complete, the map pockets removed served as my primary
outlet at the moment...I confirmed I get condensate dripping through the drains (a concern since the evaporators are vertical), I didn't check for
other condensate leaks. I still need to wrap the TXV with the gooey black stuff to keep it cold. As you may be aware, my brazing attempt was an
utter failure, and used a summit aluminum AN compression fitting designed for aluminum and a flare fitting, I'm not sure I'll keep it this way, but it
held after 8 hours of driving including 5 hours in 90 degree weather last week. I was vacuuming system And preflighting and dewinterizing an hour
before our trip to Abington, MD (Bar Harbor RV park)

The decision to add solenoid was somewhat based on accessibility, it was a tough go routing all that hose once crimped, and probably would have added
a union or two anyway. Similar to the dash air, I wired the 3-speed switch ahead of solenoid so fan can operate on its own, but needs to be running
for the solenoind push button to function.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/500/medium/IMG_2161.JPG

Waterfront campsite
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/500/medium/IMG_10334.JPG

--
Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.

Colonial Travelers
 
Well over the weekend I finished trimming the side panels. With 4 outlets per auxiliary evaporator, the driver gets two in the armrest ( existing
duct removed and capped under the hood) and two at my feet (still need vents). the lower intake, a bit crude is mostly hidden by the seat. BTW
Valspar brown velvet is a very close match to the brown of our dash (unfaded). The passenger gets a duct in parallel to the dash outlets, and two
armrest vents, the rearmost outlets are tee'd together, hopefully avoid in any dead spots on the coil. 3 speed switch "enables" evaporator solenoid
(blue led backlit push on-push off) switch so fan can run with or without cooling. I may or may not connect the heaters... our OEM side panels are
quite malleable with a heat gun, but if there are existing stress cracks, they will split if stretched too far as they did on my driver cup holder. I
heated up panel till soft and stretched it using a 3.75" hole saw blade, and let cool. I also cut and stretched hose access is in a piece of iro pipe
as a mold along the floor. To ensure ice doesn't melt, I also executed the clear plastic shower curtain project, including Velcro and magnetic
closures.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7031/medium/IMG_22321.JPG

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7031/medium/IMG_2237.JPG
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7031/medium/IMG_2233.JPG
--
Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.

Colonial Travelers
 
Great idea and excellent execution! Thanks for the update, it s nice to see a well thought out, practical upgrade.
--
JD Lisenby- USAF Ret
1978 Royale-455
Electromotive Tec2 FI & ignition

Navarre, FL
 
Sean, that is some of the nicest dash work I seen. Great execution and tasteful design. I have a 73 canyonlands also. I like to modify but stay within the original concept. Thanks for the paint color tip. How difficult was the remoulding of the side panels? What seats and seat bases are you using? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I guess. But when it looks factory its awesome. It would be great to see the rest of your rig. Do you have any other pics posted?

Rod Utterback
1973 canyon 26ft, currently motoring in the midwest
Escondido, Ca.

From: Sean Kidd
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2017 2:03 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Project Icebox update

Well over the weekend I finished trimming the side panels. With 4 outlets per auxiliary evaporator, the driver gets two in the armrest ( existing
duct removed and capped under the hood) and two at my feet (still need vents). the lower intake, a bit crude is mostly hidden by the seat. BTW
Valspar brown velvet is a very close match to the brown of our dash (unfaded). The passenger gets a duct in parallel to the dash outlets, and two
armrest vents, the rearmost outlets are tee'd together, hopefully avoid in any dead spots on the coil. 3 speed switch "enables" evaporator solenoid
(blue led backlit push on-push off) switch so fan can run with or without cooling. I may or may not connect the heaters... our OEM side panels are
quite malleable with a heat gun, but if there are existing stress cracks, they will split if stretched too far as they did on my driver cup holder. I
heated up panel till soft and stretched it using a 3.75" hole saw blade, and let cool. I also cut and stretched hose access is in a piece of iro pipe
as a mold along the floor. To ensure ice doesn't melt, I also executed the clear plastic shower curtain project, including Velcro and magnetic
closures.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7031/medium/IMG_22321.JPG

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7031/medium/IMG_2237.JPG
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7031/medium/IMG_2233.JPG
--
Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.

Colonial Travelers

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