Problem removing intake manifold

[advanced concept energy solutions]

Is there some special tool or procedure to get my 455 intake manifold off. All bolts and hoses and brackets are off or loose but can't seem to get intake to budge. Tried banging with mallet, leverage with pinch bar in carb opening. Has someone built a strong back to put across engine compartment opening with brackets to bolt to intake threaded taps?
Really don't want to reinvent the wheel or break the thing into pieces trying to pull it and then worry about what got into the oil.
Pulled my intake from the 403 , twenty ( maybe thirty) years ago an D I don't remember it being this hard. Engine only has 2000 miles on it since it was rebuilt.
Any and all suggestion welcome before I go at it with a sledge hammer.

Jon Darcy ACES
North Jersey 76 stretch, flares, 4 bag, Alcoa's, bunkhouse,MAC Dash,Manny Trans, FiTech FI,Honda 6010

 

[LQQKatJon]

the manifold is heavy! I would make some sort of lifting device, not only to take it off, but to easily lower it into the correct place(more
important)

I suggest taking out the two front seats(took me less then 10 minutes in my old coach. I used some jack stand on each seat base and a bar across the
engine compartment. Make sure it is super sturdy, and will not tip side to side, or break out your side windows. I used a bunch of super heavy duty
zip ties to hold the bar in place, and made sure it would not tip on me. Lowering the manifold in slowly helped huge not messing up the RTV.

if all the bolts are truely out, it is just plain glued on by the RTV front and back. Carefully pry with a wood chisel:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-150-Short-3-Piece-Chisel/dp/B00002X1YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476125572&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+chisel

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/

 

[Keith V]

You gotta break that seal.
I usually just jam a screw driver or two in at the front seal, it has a nice big gap, and force it apart.
yes slowly
yes carefully
no not so much actually jamming

I can lift the intake out, I straddle the hatch and dead lift it.
But I'm dumb like bull.

----------------------------------------

>
> the manifold is heavy! I would make some sort of lifting device, not only to take it off, but to easily lower it into the correct place(more
> important)
>
> I suggest taking out the two front seats(took me less then 10 minutes in my old coach. I used some jack stand on each seat base and a bar across the
> engine compartment. Make sure it is super sturdy, and will not tip side to side, or break out your side windows. I used a bunch of super heavy duty
> zip ties to hold the bar in place, and made sure it would not tip on me. Lowering the manifold in slowly helped huge not messing up the RTV.
>
>
> if all the bolts are truely out, it is just plain glued on by the RTV front and back. Carefully pry with a wood chisel:
> https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-150-Short-3-Piece-Chisel/dp/B00002X1YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476125572&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+chisel
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[jim kanomata1]

Try at the rear left corner by driving a sharp screw driver and wedging it.
Also a hard wrap with a sledge driver.

On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 10:19 AM, Advanced Concept Energy Solutions <

> Is there some special tool or procedure to get my 455 intake manifold off.
> All bolts and hoses and brackets are off or loose but can't seem to get
> intake to budge. Tried banging with mallet, leverage with pinch bar in carb
> opening. Has someone built a strong back to put across engine compartment
> opening with brackets to bolt to intake threaded taps?
> Really don't want to reinvent the wheel or break the thing into pieces
> trying to pull it and then worry about what got into the oil.
> Pulled my intake from the 403 , twenty ( maybe thirty) years ago an D I
> don't remember it being this hard. Engine only has 2000 miles on it since
> it was rebuilt.
> Any and all suggestion welcome before I go at it with a sledge hammer.
>
> Jon Darcy ACES
> North Jersey 76 stretch, flares, 4 bag, Alcoa's, bunkhouse,MAC Dash,Manny
> Trans, FiTech FI,Honda 6010
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[robert mueller]

G'day,

Obviously the manifold has been sealed to the head.

To do the least amount of damage to the sealing surfaces; separate the manifold from the head in as many places as you can get to by
driving a narrow (1 inch or less wide) putty knife with radiused corners and edges between the two; "cutting" the seal.

Then drive a screwdriver in an area where it is least likely to damage the sealing surface to finish the process.

Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426

-----Original Message-----
From: Advanced Concept Energy Solutions

Is there some special tool or procedure to get my 455 intake manifold off. All bolts and hoses and brackets are off or loose but
can't seem to get intake to budge. Tried banging with mallet, leverage with pinch bar in carb opening. Has someone built a strong
back to put across engine compartment opening with brackets to bolt to intake threaded taps?
Really don't want to reinvent the wheel or break the thing into pieces trying to pull it and then worry about what got into the oil.
Pulled my intake from the 403 , twenty ( maybe thirty) years ago an D I don't remember it being this hard. Engine only has 2000
miles on it since it was rebuilt.
Any and all suggestion welcome before I go at it with a sledge hammer.

Jon

 

[advanced concept energy solutions]

Problem solved! Pounded the crap on a flat blade screw driver to wedge between manifold and head. Ruined the screw driver but heard the gurgling of the water as I broke the seal on the cooling system. From there it was just more pounding and getting the screw driver wedged to lift manifold. Tied a rope between the carb flange and the thermostat housing and lifted it out. Never seen an intake so difficult to pry away from heads. Carbon buildup on the tray around exhaust cross over indicated how hot it was getting without crossover plugged. Still believe that this caused issues with the FiTech. New airgap intake should resolve this problem. Specs say good from 1500 to 6500 rpm. I run at 3000 rpm 95% of the miles I drive. Gotta be a lot better than what I had. Time will tell if I should have went with standard Aluminum intake.
Thanks to everyone for thinking about my problem.

Jon Darcy ACES
North Jersey 76 stretch, flares, 4 bag, Alcoa's, bunkhouse,MAC Dash,Manny Trans, FiTech FI,Honda 6010