Powered Mirror Installation

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hdavis

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Mar 13, 1998
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I'm looking for some suggetions on how to run the wiring for powered mirror
installations. The mirrors are on and the head wiring fed into the coach -

My question is where do folks run the wires? I can see how to snake the
drivers' side wires into the wiring bundle area, but don't see how to run
the passenger side wires. DO I remove inside molding or drill an access hole
in the firewall? Or...?

My coach is a 1976 Palm Beach.

Thanks for the help.

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (408) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com
 
>
> I'm looking for some suggetions on how to run the wiring for powered mirror
> installations. The mirrors are on and the head wiring fed into the coach -
>
> My question is where do folks run the wires? I can see how to snake the
> drivers' side wires into the wiring bundle area, but don't see how to run
> the passenger side wires. DO I remove inside molding or drill an access hole
> in the firewall? Or...?
>
> My coach is a 1976 Palm Beach.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Henry
>
> Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
> PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
> Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
> ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
> fax: (408) 462-5198
> http://www.henry-davis.com
Henry,

Just finished with my install of two Ramco mirrors with motorized head
and lights. I removed the side panels and ran the wire for the
passenger side behind the glove box and removed the elctrolevel panel to
fish it over to the drivers side for the switches. You should not have
to remove your side panel if you can catch the wire with a coat hanger
or fish. Hope it all goes well.

Marcus
 
>
>Henry,
>If you have fed the wires through the body, they are inside the side
>panel.

Boy that's a fact. The wires wanted to stay in the side panels. There were a
few pockets of extra insulation that made fishing wires really tricky.

There is an aluminum support member in there as well that you
>will have to fish the wire around. There is an access slot ath the
>front on the side panel, its not very big but if you hold your mouth
>just right you will be able to rus a coat hanger from the wire hole to
>the removeable pocket and then to the front access slot. You may be
>able to see better if you remove the inside of the glove box.

We took out the glove box - which meant taking off the A/C vent. Then
fishing from the passenger side was a piece of cake. All straight shots and
no big surprises. I routed the cable under the fuses and across the top of
the steering column. Then I fished it through the drivers side vent and to
the ash tray location.

There is
>also a similar slot at the front ofthe driver side panel to tie the
>wires to the controller if you want to mount the joy sticks on the
>driver side wall.

Since I don't smoke, the ash tray became the new location for the
controller. Getting the wires through the panel on the drivers side was a
real chore. I know a number of folks have commented on missing insulation
when they removed their headliner. Well, GM did a great job on our coach. No
voids that I can see. But, they did fill in the side panel a bit much. So, I
had a heck of a time getting the wires through to the pocket. we ended up
using a coat hanger to pierce the insulation that was blocking the channel.
THen the wires came through OK.

I tapped the washer circuit for power since I only have one left hand (and
can't run both the mirrors and the washer at the same time). I've run the
market/directional lights wires inside the coach but haven't hooked them up.
I think that I'll wait until I get back from vacation for that one. It'll
give me some time to decide how I want to wire them.

BTW, the steering wheel that you sent is terrific. The dash is much more
visible - now I can see the idiot lights.

Thanks for your help.

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (408) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com
 
Henry,
If you have fed the wires through the body, they are inside the side
panel. There is an aluminum support member in there as well that you
will have to fish the wire around. There is an access slot ath the
front on the side panel, its not very big but if you hold your mouth
just right you will be able to rus a coat hanger from the wire hole to
the removeable pocket and then to the front access slot. You may be
able to see better if you remove the inside of the glove box. There is
also a similar slot at the front ofthe driver side panel to tie the
wires to the controller if you want to mount the joy sticks on the
driver side wall.

Let me know if I can help further.

Jim Bounds www.gmccoop.com

>
> I'm looking for some suggetions on how to run the wiring for powered mirror
> installations. The mirrors are on and the head wiring fed into the coach -
>
> My question is where do folks run the wires? I can see how to snake the
> drivers' side wires into the wiring bundle area, but don't see how to run
> the passenger side wires. DO I remove inside molding or drill an access hole
> in the firewall? Or...?
>
> My coach is a 1976 Palm Beach.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Henry
>
> Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
> PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
> Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
> ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
> fax: (408) 462-5198
> http://www.henry-davis.com
 
>

> >Henry,
> >
> >Just finished with my install of two Ramco mirrors with motorized head
> >and lights. I removed the side panels and ran the wire for the
> >passenger side behind the glove box and removed the elctrolevel panel to
> >fish it over to the drivers side for the switches. You should not have
> >to remove your side panel if you can catch the wire with a coat hanger
> >or fish. Hope it all goes well.
> >
>
> Thnaks for the advice. I'm not done yet - I needed to buy a few taps for the
> existing wiring.
>
> My wife and I removed the glove box and fished the wires through without
> removing the side panel. Routing to the driver's side was a piece of cake. I
> still need to grab the wires on the driver's side. I think that I'll pull
> the wires I've fed into the body out and use the fish tape to poke through
> to the right spot. (As you can tell, I broke down and bought a tape. I've
> wanted one for a few years but use it so seldom that I never bothered buying
> one. With all the wires I need to string through the coach I decide to spend
> the $20.) Did you wire the lights as markers or flashers.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Henry
>
> Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
> PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
> Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
> ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
> fax: (408) 462-5198
> http://www.henry-davis.com

Wired them as both. Go inside light and take the white wire that is
attached to ground via the lug and mounting srew and cut the lug off.
The copper piece can be cut back and the wire soldered to the copper.
THIS IS NOT REATTACHED TO GROUND. Tape or heat shrink solder joint.
Attach white wire to blue lead going to side marker and black wire to
brown going to side marker. Light works as both parking light and side
turn signal.

Marcus
 
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