OT engine question

H

hdavis

New member
Mar 13, 1998
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Help!

I have a 53 Chevy PU that has a rebuilt 350 engine installed. rebuilder
left town ...

I have a coolant leak from one of the freeze plugs (it's located behind the
engine mount so it's tough to get at without pulling the engine). I've
never had a freeze plug leak before. Any suggestions? I'd like to avoid
pulling the engine to replace the plug.

Thanks,

Henry


Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (831) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
 
"I have a coolant leak from one of the freeze plugs (it's located behind
the engine mount so it's tough to get at without pulling the engine).
I've never had a freeze plug leak before. Any suggestions? I'd like to
avoid pulling the engine to replace the plug."

it should be possible to pull the engine mount bolts and lift the engine
enough to get to the plug - especially on a pickup - you will need a
hoist and will have to pull the hood off

- --

ron keener near Austin, Texas http://MidAmericaBreedingTech.com
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> I have a coolant leak from one of the freeze plugs (it's located behind the
> engine mount so it's tough to get at without pulling the engine). I've
> never had a freeze plug leak before. Any suggestions? I'd like to avoid
> pulling the engine to replace the plug.
>

This is the way I have done it:

Place a jack under the sump portion of the oil pan, using a large, flat piece
of wood between the jack and the sump to spread the load so you don't dent the
sump. A section of 2X8 works nicely. Raise the jack slightly to take the load
off of the motor mount and remove the mount. Once the mount is out, the freeze
plug should be accessible. If more room is needed, raise the jack a little
more and the engine will pivot on the remaining front mount and provide the
extra space. Normal precautions should be taken, including making sure the
jack is on a stable surface.

Lorry
 
Henry most shops just drive the freeze plugs in, and hope they dont leak.
they should always be installed using Permatex aviation 3H around the edge
of the plug and hole. Cant you use a jack to hold the engine up and remove
the engine mount so the plug can be removed and installed correctly?

>Help!
>
>I have a 53 Chevy PU that has a rebuilt 350 engine installed. rebuilder
>left town ...
>
>I have a coolant leak from one of the freeze plugs (it's located behind the
>engine mount so it's tough to get at without pulling the engine). I've
>never had a freeze plug leak before. Any suggestions? I'd like to avoid
>pulling the engine to replace the plug.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Henry
>
>
>Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
>PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
>Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
>ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
>fax: (831) 462-5198
>http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
>
>
 
Thanks Tom (and every one else who replied to my off topic post).

FWIW, here's what I'm going to do and why.

I decided to go over everything on the truck carefully myself. This was
motivated in part by the leaking plug, but also because a few things (like
drain plugs on the lower side of the block.) weren't installed. GO ahead,
ask me how I know...

Found a leak in the brake line flare on the driver's sie. Then on the
passenger side. Then in the rear. No problem, just check 'em and retighten.
Each flare was cracked. No problem, just cut off the end and reflare right?
Seems like the flares were cut off a few times - not enough brake line left
for me to be happy.

Then I noticed that the stiffener under the engine was bolted in and not
welded on all sides like I spec'd.

So, out comes the engine. And I'll redo a bunch of the work myself. Thought
that I'd save time by having someone else do it for me.

That's how a project truck for my daughter is going to change my plans for
when I do a few GMC updates.

Henry

>Henry most shops just drive the freeze plugs in, and hope they dont leak.
>they should always be installed using Permatex aviation 3H around the edge
>of the plug and hole. Cant you use a jack to hold the engine up and remove
>the engine mount so the plug can be removed and installed correctly?
>

>>Help!
>>
>>I have a 53 Chevy PU that has a rebuilt 350 engine installed. rebuilder
>>left town ...
>>
>>I have a coolant leak from one of the freeze plugs (it's located behind the
>>engine mount so it's tough to get at without pulling the engine). I've
>>never had a freeze plug leak before. Any suggestions? I'd like to avoid
>>pulling the engine to replace the plug.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Henry
>>
>>
>>Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
>>PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
>>Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
>>ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
>>fax: (831) 462-5198
>>http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
>>
>>
>
Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (831) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
 
Henry, didn't know you went into these old pu as well. My son and I are in the
process of finishing a 1955 chevy pu truck, but it has the original engine in
it. There is enough room to just crawl in and work on the 6 cyl. Hope you fix
if up.
al

> Thanks Tom (and every one else who replied to my off topic post).
>
> FWIW, here's what I'm going to do and why.
>
> I decided to go over everything on the truck carefully myself. This was
> motivated in part by the leaking plug, but also because a few things (like
> drain plugs on the lower side of the block.) weren't installed. GO ahead,
> ask me how I know...
>
 
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